While I don't use my 3D printer to make tools, it has been coming in really handy for making custom parts for my project bike. I just picked up a wrecked 1978 Yamaha XS750 SE and designed a piece to fix a broken side cover, made a custom brake light/license plate mount, and a custom dash to hold some aftermarket gauges with built in turn signal indicators and warning lights with lenses printed in clear filament.
I've seen people make cable guides chain buffers chain guides. brackets it's endless the things you can make with 3D printers. Very useful bit ov kit. I'd love to see someone 3D print motorcycle plastic fairings specially headlight cowling bang replicas ov OEM
I picked up the exact same bike ten days ago. Do you have any of those files posted online? I think most of the one I picked up was there, but in case I need something
More than likely the part came detached from the bed due to temperature fluctuations which left the nozzle printing in air. Not sure how well your shop is heated but you may need to bring the printer into your house so that the temperature will be more stable. A stable temp is critical for 3D printers, especially if you start printing with materials other than PLA.
Plexiglass enclosure would keep it warm enough as long as its not below freezing outside the unheated garage at night. Keep the dust out of the mechanics too.
You can also use something like hairspray on the bed right before the print to make sure that 1st layer gets good adhesion. That and really dialing in your bed leveling, even if your printer has automatic leveling.
Stereolithography (SLA) is done with liquid resin and when originally invented was done with a laser which has now been replaced by a UV LCD screen. The kind used in this video is fused deposition modeling (FDM) was invented in 1989 by S. Scott Crump
You need to play around with the slicer settings. The wall thickness and infill make a huge difference in the strength of parts. A 100% infill part can be pretty strong. I don't do them often but sometimes they're needed. The real thing I use printing for most for motorcycles is not tools but custom parts. I've done a lot of custom spacers, brackets, etc. One thing that is very helpful and not otherwise available is a Quadlock extension with a twist in the middle of it - It prints clean, you need to do 100% infill, the first one I printed broke, the 100% infill one is solid as heck. It puts my phone in exactly the right place on my Tracer.
I work in industrial AM and we print 100% infill most of the time, unless weight is an engineering requirement. Even with the extremely tough industry rated filaments like peek and ultem.
i has used 3D printer many many parts my house, cupboard handle, kitchen handle, door lock handles, all bathroom self etc stuff, soap cups, self brackets, shampoo box, tooth brush brackets to wall, door latch lock, hinges, mirror frame, kitchen many parts, camera slider, many many parts, need select material right, PLA,ABS,nylon, carbon fiber lot many materials have.
I made forged carbon fiber levers for my old goldwing just for the hell of it and I have some tips that easy composite video might not mention. - modeling clay or beeswax on the bolts will work if you don’t have the mold making wax and you can’t have too much. - if mold fits together really tight the resin can’t escape you want to be able to see a tiny bit of light between the mold pieces when it’s assembled. - don’t be scared to make more epoxy than the calculations it will squeeze out when you compress it. - I used injection mold release spray and it worked great but rubbing wax on the mold to fill the ridges between the layers as well worked even better actually managed to get my part out without damaging the mold at all.
Do yourself a favor and do a deep drive into alternative materials, building a printing enclosure, and purchase a filament dryer. Each of my bikes have at least one part that I’ve modeled and printed for its specific application (custom gauge mount, battery box, coolant overflow bottle mount, etc) If you can dream it up, you can make it!
@@kennethlee5985 just use a bolt on the head and wrap the handle with real cf. the sheets don't cost much at all and you don't need much resin and if you don't care about perfect application, and you really don't need to for a lot of stuff, then you don't need to vacuum bag it or anything just make wet with the resin by slobbering it on with whatever toothbrush, spatula, screwdriver..
I've done 3D printing for a few years now, And I havn't made many tools yet, but I've found a chain lubricator that actually works. I've printed cool Motorcycle Logos and Keychains. But I've realized that having dual X motors like you have and autoleveling is a must, and I don't have it yet. But the great thing with 3Dprinters, especially Creality Enders is that they are upgradable. So keep on printing, bearded brother
I'm only 3 minutes in and you have earned a new sub, I lost it at the hammer part. Also a tip for stronger parts is to up the number of walls, I like to use 5 walls for strength with around 50 % infill. You can also print with 100% infill if you don't care about part weight or printing time.
A couple of things. That Creality is a hobby printer. It is a fine printer if you want to spend time tinkering with the printer all the time. If you want a printer as a tool I would look at Prusa MK4 or Bambu Labs X1C. With the Bambu being an enclosure you can print ABS or ASA which would be a better plastic for the applications you are trying to accomplish. PLA is hard but brittle as you found out. The Creality should be able to print PETG. PETG is soda bottle plastic.
Wow...thanks for the expert advice, but basic PLA is stronger than ABS, and some PLA+ formulations are much stronger. You can print most plastics on a cheap printer, I printed over a hundred tools, clamps, gauges and spacers on a reality for my shop. If course plastic is not applicable for most hand tools, which is why no one makes those tools out of plastic, and a pricey printer won't fix that.
Oh snap! I didn’t know that was all one print! I thought you had to assemble them that’s actually really impressive they can print stuff that’s so intricate!!
Matt should have had the ending to a wedding on his vhs just so it seemed like he recorded over a wedding video to send a invite to a challenge that would have been so good
For a lot of these tools, you need a stronger plastic than PLA. Polycarbonate would probably be better. But the printer you have isn't able to print the higher temperature material. Also more outer layers and a higher infill will help.
I know that others have made the recommendation, but I highly recommend a filament dryer and an enclosure. I keep my filament in the dryer while printing, and store it in ziploc bags with silica gel packets. Several types of filament, especially PLA, absorbs water from the air. It makes your printer pop while printing and can make your prints very brittle. You can build an enclosure, but premade ones are cheap and convenient.
I've printed a few things for my bikes. One was a temporary hose fitting for the coolant overflow, but it has survived for 3+ years. Another was adapters to mount aftermarket mirrors, and those have held up for 4 years (the mirrors broke first). I've made taillight reflectors (for led taillights, normal ones would probably melt) and then covered them in reflective chrome tape. I've also made multiple ram-ball style mounts. Some that bolt on, and some that clip into go-pro clips. All of them have held up. And those were all just straight PLA on a cheapo printer that only took an hour or two to design and print each. Compression molds are cool, and i've used them before for other things, but for 90% of stuff, just printing PLA or even a fancy filament is more than enough. You can also do things like design in holes for screws, pins, or threaded rod to be inserted and glued in if you really need some reinforcement strength. So maybe a video like your "roadside fixes", but with 3d printed parts would be neat.
i used a length of PVC pipe to drive in my fork seals. Worked great and cost like $15, didn't have access to a 3D printer at the time and I havent had any leaks since.
I had to run a top in the bolt wholes for a thermostat housing a couple weeks ago and I didn’t have a handle and I couldn’t reach the end of the tap with an adjustable wrench because of the location. But I looked tried to fit some sockets on the end of the tap with no luck. However I found that a 1/4 inch ratchet extension reversed fit the end of the tap perfectly and I used an adjustable wrench on the box end of the extension. Worked great. Hopefully that can help someone some day. Love you videos keep it up Craig!
These are the things I have printed for my bike. Fork seal driver Water pump seal driver indicator mount for fork triple tree front cover small fender between license plate and rear taillight/fender Footrest rubber shifter rubber usb charger handlebar mount koso speedometer cover and bracket for handlebar relay mount gas tank rubber dampener Windshield rubber to reduce play in stock mount mount for 12v fan for voltage converter radiator rubber mount some frame bolthole covers
A little advice on the tools: take a look at the preview in your slicer and get a feel for what the part will look like as it’s being printed. That will help you visualise the part and optimise it for strength. Most of the tools which required torque failed because your infill was too low and you probably used the default amount of walls. PLA can be very strong once you take into account strengthening the weak points and using print orientation to your advantage. Increase your infill and ESPECIALLY your wall count. That will help a lot.
I love my 3D printer. Used it to print a special tool required to make the valve adjustment on my Aprilia Tuono. Saved 1000$ by doing the job myself. It's also very usefull for prototyping parts before machining them in metal.
3d-printing is an excellent tool to have at hand in the shop, if used for the right applications. Plastics have their benefits and drawbacks. I've been using mine for making molds for shaping leather, plugs for forming metal, tool stands, air ducts, mockups for exhaust systems, clips for car interiors, jigs and a lot more. There are literally millions of files out there, ready to be downloaded and printed, but the tool really comes to its fruition if you get a bit of experience in CAD as well. It can be something as simple as Tinkercad, but it'll help you design custom parts within an hour and then have them printed the following morning. Never be afraid to experiment.
Another tip for a fork seal driver - electrical tape. Wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the fork to make a lip and just slide/hammer the outer tube up to the lip you just made and it'll sandwich the seal into place
My son CAD designs parts for me to print and use. So far I've had a TRIUMPH Speed Triple headstem castle nut tool that handled 40nm, an air ram intake for the Triumph, an axle seal driver tool for my Toyota Hilux and a TPU Garmin gps crash pad mount for my WR450. It's amazing to be able to make things at home that work so well.
I use my 3D printer for most motorcycle parts since hard to find parts. Not certain material choices but mostly i use ABS, TPU. Can cut down print times alot wit 0.6 or 1mm nozzle. Liked the video
I have a Prusa mini+ that has paid for itself in just small parts for around the house. I use it a lot for electronics projects too. The Prusa printers are super reliable. I’ve only had to replace a fan after two yea4d of constant printing, the bed self levels, and I have never had to use adhesives to get my prints to stick. Out of hundreds of prints, less than 10 have give; me issues. I’m glad you got a printer!🎉
A very useful tool to 3D print is a wheel balancing adapter. Designed and printed one for my Multistrada 1260S so the rear rim could fit a 32$ wheel balancing kit. Much cheaper than buying a 150$ adapter dedicated for a specific model/brand.
Heres a top tip too, If your using SD cards and start getting layer shifts that screw up your prints, Try a new SD card before you mess the printer up.
you need octoprint, to remotely manage and monitor your prints. runs on a Pi, and gives you tons of remote control options, including time lapse recordings.
I use a resin printer to print incredibly detailed parts and molds. The resolution on a cheap resin printer is amazing. If you print a castle with spires and flags on top, the flag poles are like needles and will stab you, they're that fine. Anywho, molds are good too, spray with mold release, pour in some other resin and cast your part. I'll bet some resins are good enough to cast brake and clutch levers, and would stand up to abuse.
I own four FDM printers, two SLA printers, and two lasers! I have been printing for over ten years and have created many designs and prints for customers. There are many different types of filament! Some are highly flexible, others are highly resistant to hear and yet others are very strong. You are using most likely PLA which is the weakest filament that you could choose. The rats nest as we call it is from lack of adhesion on the first layer. Clean your bed with alcohol and slow the first layer down to about 30 mms. Also make sure the first layer squish is good!
I've printed handlebar end cap adapters, TPU prints for washers/spacers for vibration and silencing rattles. Also beefier luggage buckles after they break and melt onto the muffler. wish i could figure out 3d modelling because i would like to make end plugs for the chrome tubing that I've cut off some of the luggage rack.
Look into 3d printed gaskets. TPU is incredibly tough stuff and makes some amazing gaskets. It's by far what I use my printer for most in my shop. Even complex shapes.
Recently got a ender3 s1. Nice printer..I've made a 650 kz lever..abs filament..90%infill.super strong.chain luber to,handy dandy.lots of fun stuff on the webs.tpu can do gaskets.
The last 3D-printed tool I used was a bicycle suspension fork preload adjuster wrench from eBay. The bloody thing broke as soon as any torque was applied to it. It's been replaced by a CNC machined anodized aluminium wrench which works fine, and looks a lot prettier as well. I think it's fair to say that it's going to be a while before 3D printing puts all the tool companies out of business.
I’ve been using 3D printers for 8 years and basic materials will not do well under torque. That said, I used it successfully to design custom motorcycle parts to test before having a fab shop make my actual parts. As for the failed print, kudos for not giving up like some people when it happens.
Craig, if your not already, use glue stick on your bed to help prevent fails and spaghetti. It works for a wide range of materials, but not all. Just extra insurance and you can pull the build plate off and wash it under the sink to easily remove the glue. You can usually get a few prints off one application however.
One way to make a more robust tool on a 3D printer is to print using Carbon Fiber Nylon. They call it "black aluminum" and it's considerably tougher than PLA if it's printed properly. The issue is that the printer you have is a bed slinger and those printers can only do an adequate job of printing low temp filaments like PLA and PETG. Bambu Labs makes a printer called the X1C for about $999 that can print CF Nylon. I have made useful tools out of PLA and PETG. A low end consumer grade 3D printer can absolutely make useful tools, but it can't make tools that have the requisite strength needed to torque things down really. I have a printer that can conceivably print CF Nylon well, but I haven't needed to print that material just yet.
For anything that really needs to get stressed, a normal print isn't going to cut it. Concerning bikes I found it more useful to make spacers, brackets or confirming sizing etc. of models for small fixtures before having them made somewhere. Last thing we made were small enclosures for a USB battery charging circuit, so we could keep our phones charged on our old bikes. The prints aren't fully waterproof of course, but decent enough to keep it protected under the seat.
You’ll be buying a Bambu X1C with an AMS soon I bet. I started 2016 on a CR-10 and just got the X1C which is one of the best 3d printers today I’d say. Hammer time!!!
I’ve made a usable scanner out of glass fiber reinforced ptfe. It got my gland nut loose. But, still didn’t last long. Metal printing and autoclave sintering would work better.
If you want to make tools, you get a 3D printer, a metal forge + a casting set up. Depending on the forge you can make aluminum, copper, brass or even iron casted tools from 3d printed molds.
Hey buddy! Love the “ Hammer” 😉 figured I’d let you know that your Hammer will work just fine with that hole in the grip. Looks like you’re missing some parts though…!im sure you know you need but ill send you a list if you dont
Im glad your a fan of printing hammers. You’re a wise man beyond belief.
The Bearded Mechanic is more based than I thought.
My hammer self identifies as a hole punch.
@@spartanx169x *long distance hole puncher
@@spartanx169x it's a multi tool
@@spartanx169x same
While I don't use my 3D printer to make tools, it has been coming in really handy for making custom parts for my project bike. I just picked up a wrecked 1978 Yamaha XS750 SE and designed a piece to fix a broken side cover, made a custom brake light/license plate mount, and a custom dash to hold some aftermarket gauges with built in turn signal indicators and warning lights with lenses printed in clear filament.
I've got an '80 XS850 midnight special...
Don't see the old XS's much anymore.
I've seen people make cable guides chain buffers chain guides. brackets it's endless the things you can make with 3D printers. Very useful bit ov kit. I'd love to see someone 3D print motorcycle plastic fairings specially headlight cowling bang replicas ov OEM
I picked up the exact same bike ten days ago. Do you have any of those files posted online? I think most of the one I picked up was there, but in case I need something
The tools 3d printers are good for making aren't copies of traditional tools. they're tools custom to the job.
More than likely the part came detached from the bed due to temperature fluctuations which left the nozzle printing in air. Not sure how well your shop is heated but you may need to bring the printer into your house so that the temperature will be more stable. A stable temp is critical for 3D printers, especially if you start printing with materials other than PLA.
Plexiglass enclosure would keep it warm enough as long as its not below freezing outside the unheated garage at night. Keep the dust out of the mechanics too.
You can also use something like hairspray on the bed right before the print to make sure that 1st layer gets good adhesion. That and really dialing in your bed leveling, even if your printer has automatic leveling.
Even a posterboard enclosure helps
not use worst PLA material printer, need use lot strongest material nylon and carbon fiber material lot strongest can printing tools, gun stock etc.
My girlfriend says you're relatable, but I put her straight and told her you're american.
Stereolithography (SLA) is done with liquid resin and when originally invented was done with a laser which has now been replaced by a UV LCD screen. The kind used in this video is fused deposition modeling (FDM) was invented in 1989 by S. Scott Crump
Came for the bikes stayed for the 3d printing!
You need to play around with the slicer settings. The wall thickness and infill make a huge difference in the strength of parts. A 100% infill part can be pretty strong. I don't do them often but sometimes they're needed.
The real thing I use printing for most for motorcycles is not tools but custom parts. I've done a lot of custom spacers, brackets, etc. One thing that is very helpful and not otherwise available is a Quadlock extension with a twist in the middle of it - It prints clean, you need to do 100% infill, the first one I printed broke, the 100% infill one is solid as heck. It puts my phone in exactly the right place on my Tracer.
I work in industrial AM and we print 100% infill most of the time, unless weight is an engineering requirement. Even with the extremely tough industry rated filaments like peek and ultem.
@@uglypinkeraserif you are going to use PEEK and ultem ($$$$), it's often better to just CNC metal.
i has used 3D printer many many parts my house, cupboard handle, kitchen handle, door lock handles, all bathroom self etc stuff, soap cups, self brackets, shampoo box, tooth brush brackets to wall, door latch lock, hinges, mirror frame, kitchen many parts, camera slider, many many parts, need select material right, PLA,ABS,nylon, carbon fiber lot many materials have.
"A hammer..."
2A hammer
@@kamenrob8500 one of those American Freedom Hammers
😂😂
We loves the hammers 😂
It's a long distance hammer! you know, for those far away nails!
I made forged carbon fiber levers for my old goldwing just for the hell of it and I have some tips that easy composite video might not mention.
- modeling clay or beeswax on the bolts will work if you don’t have the mold making wax and you can’t have too much.
- if mold fits together really tight the resin can’t escape you want to be able to see a tiny bit of light between the mold pieces when it’s assembled.
- don’t be scared to make more epoxy than the calculations it will squeeze out when you compress it.
- I used injection mold release spray and it worked great but rubbing wax on the mold to fill the ridges between the layers as well worked even better actually managed to get my part out without damaging the mold at all.
Self made brake levers are just a really bad idea unless you have the engineering knowhow to stress test them.
"I wasn't expecting to have to fix something today"
ah the bliss being a new printer owner
LOLOL Right? wait until he gets into resin printing... what do you mean I have to heat the resin?!?
LMAO
@@mundanestuff Personally, I've had far FAR better reliability with resin printers, but maybe I'm just lucky
Bambu Lab has solved this problem to a great extent.
@@KaffiRawr a printer that works out of the box? Where’s the fun in that!?
Do yourself a favor and do a deep drive into alternative materials, building a printing enclosure, and purchase a filament dryer. Each of my bikes have at least one part that I’ve modeled and printed for its specific application (custom gauge mount, battery box, coolant overflow bottle mount, etc)
If you can dream it up, you can make it!
Second, I need to upgrade my ender a little more to do cf nylon. To print Hammers.....
@@kennethlee5985 just use a bolt on the head and wrap the handle with real cf. the sheets don't cost much at all and you don't need much resin and if you don't care about perfect application, and you really don't need to for a lot of stuff, then you don't need to vacuum bag it or anything just make wet with the resin by slobbering it on with whatever toothbrush, spatula, screwdriver..
@@kennethlee5985you need a different printer, not upgrades, for CF nylon.
@@truantray if you say so but there are many people who do it. All metal direct drive hot end and firmware upgrade with an enclosure
IDK, it seems like the hammer drove the nail exactly 9mm before it broke. LoL.
He missed the opportunity for that joke. So good.
Perfection
That is because it was only a 9mm hammer. Next time he should print a 40.
I've done 3D printing for a few years now, And I havn't made many tools yet, but I've found a chain lubricator that actually works. I've printed cool Motorcycle Logos and Keychains. But I've realized that having dual X motors like you have and autoleveling is a must, and I don't have it yet. But the great thing with 3Dprinters, especially Creality Enders is that they are upgradable. So keep on printing, bearded brother
Break loose torque is always going to be far less than torque applied. That is why we use loctite and spring washers to prevent back outs.
Dudes got a printed lower and coke on the table time to go find Craig for a party😂😂
You mean a hammer and some ramen.
Amazing to see you using 3D printing! I've been printing for almost 10 years - don't give up!
I'm only 3 minutes in and you have earned a new sub, I lost it at the hammer part. Also a tip for stronger parts is to up the number of walls, I like to use 5 walls for strength with around 50 % infill. You can also print with 100% infill if you don't care about part weight or printing time.
A couple of things. That Creality is a hobby printer. It is a fine printer if you want to spend time tinkering with the printer all the time. If you want a printer as a tool I would look at Prusa MK4 or Bambu Labs X1C. With the Bambu being an enclosure you can print ABS or ASA which would be a better plastic for the applications you are trying to accomplish. PLA is hard but brittle as you found out. The Creality should be able to print PETG. PETG is soda bottle plastic.
Wow...thanks for the expert advice, but basic PLA is stronger than ABS, and some PLA+ formulations are much stronger.
You can print most plastics on a cheap printer, I printed over a hundred tools, clamps, gauges and spacers on a reality for my shop.
If course plastic is not applicable for most hand tools, which is why no one makes those tools out of plastic, and a pricey printer won't fix that.
For tools he should use a high quality PA-CF. But with this printer he can’t print them. No heated chamber and he may have a ptfe hotend as well.
The editor is really good at this. I like the subtle jokes put in. The harmonica was funny 😂
22:40
Check your slicer settings.
100% infill, wall adjustments, etc
Oh snap! I didn’t know that was all one print! I thought you had to assemble them that’s actually really impressive they can print stuff that’s so intricate!!
Those 3d printed hammers are great.
Smart move to measure things in SI-Units - I'm really appreciating that ;)
Matt should have had the ending to a wedding on his vhs just so it seemed like he recorded over a wedding video to send a invite to a challenge that would have been so good
Heck yeah man! The first part I ever designed and printed was a tail tidy for my 23' Grom. Have fun!
How did your family react to your coming out?
@@cloudededen5819 my wife and son were very confused
For a lot of these tools, you need a stronger plastic than PLA. Polycarbonate would probably be better. But the printer you have isn't able to print the higher temperature material. Also more outer layers and a higher infill will help.
Polycarb is good but it is brittle like PLA. Think Nylon, ASA, and PETG.
The wrench’s actually tightened the nuts to 300 foot pounds Craig loosened them when he tried to take it off by hand he’s that strong lol
I know that others have made the recommendation, but I highly recommend a filament dryer and an enclosure. I keep my filament in the dryer while printing, and store it in ziploc bags with silica gel packets. Several types of filament, especially PLA, absorbs water from the air. It makes your printer pop while printing and can make your prints very brittle. You can build an enclosure, but premade ones are cheap and convenient.
This is peak comedy. Love it.
Hell yeah. Can't wait to see all these great channels in one spot
Craig, I'm pretty sure "hand tight" is the baseline we should all hope to achieve. So the tool is as good as your own hands. Amazing!!!
I've printed a few things for my bikes. One was a temporary hose fitting for the coolant overflow, but it has survived for 3+ years. Another was adapters to mount aftermarket mirrors, and those have held up for 4 years (the mirrors broke first). I've made taillight reflectors (for led taillights, normal ones would probably melt) and then covered them in reflective chrome tape. I've also made multiple ram-ball style mounts. Some that bolt on, and some that clip into go-pro clips. All of them have held up.
And those were all just straight PLA on a cheapo printer that only took an hour or two to design and print each. Compression molds are cool, and i've used them before for other things, but for 90% of stuff, just printing PLA or even a fancy filament is more than enough. You can also do things like design in holes for screws, pins, or threaded rod to be inserted and glued in if you really need some reinforcement strength.
So maybe a video like your "roadside fixes", but with 3d printed parts would be neat.
Different diameters of pvc pipe with a hose clamp also work well for driving fork seals.
i used a length of PVC pipe to drive in my fork seals. Worked great and cost like $15, didn't have access to a 3D printer at the time and I havent had any leaks since.
moto/sled mechanic here, i didn't think i needed a 3d printer until this video. thanks Craig.....getting my credit card out now
I love Matt’s off road recovery. This is going to be awesome.
The mold idea is genius. Love your channel Craig!
Oh Great Bearded Dude, your wisdom and spirituality is beyond measure.
Lines of powder got me lol
Fuckin crackhead :D
Excited? Wanting?
Remembering the old days ?
All gushy ? 😆
The Rubik’s cube overlay killed me. 😂😂
Oh damn, that was a nice surprise in the video :D I cant wait to see Craig riding a rig
I had to run a top in the bolt wholes for a thermostat housing a couple weeks ago and I didn’t have a handle and I couldn’t reach the end of the tap with an adjustable wrench because of the location. But I looked tried to fit some sockets on the end of the tap with no luck. However I found that a 1/4 inch ratchet extension reversed fit the end of the tap perfectly and I used an adjustable wrench on the box end of the extension. Worked great. Hopefully that can help someone some day. Love you videos keep it up Craig!
These are the things I have printed for my bike.
Fork seal driver
Water pump seal driver
indicator mount for fork
triple tree front cover
small fender between license plate and rear taillight/fender
Footrest rubber
shifter rubber
usb charger handlebar mount
koso speedometer cover and bracket for handlebar
relay mount
gas tank rubber dampener
Windshield rubber to reduce play in stock mount
mount for 12v fan for voltage converter
radiator rubber mount
some frame bolthole covers
This is cool Craig. I've never done it but I thought it would be a lot of fun. It's amazing what you can do with one.
Lines of powder got me rolling. That deserves a smash of the like button
A little advice on the tools: take a look at the preview in your slicer and get a feel for what the part will look like as it’s being printed. That will help you visualise the part and optimise it for strength. Most of the tools which required torque failed because your infill was too low and you probably used the default amount of walls. PLA can be very strong once you take into account strengthening the weak points and using print orientation to your advantage. Increase your infill and ESPECIALLY your wall count. That will help a lot.
The harmonica sound sent me lol. So random. Love the content Craig!
The loops on the chain cleaner tool is for string to the frame so your hands are not holding it buddy great channel 👍 keep upnthe good work guys
I love my 3D printer. Used it to print a special tool required to make the valve adjustment on my Aprilia Tuono. Saved 1000$ by doing the job myself. It's also very usefull for prototyping parts before machining them in metal.
3d-printing is an excellent tool to have at hand in the shop, if used for the right applications. Plastics have their benefits and drawbacks. I've been using mine for making molds for shaping leather, plugs for forming metal, tool stands, air ducts, mockups for exhaust systems, clips for car interiors, jigs and a lot more. There are literally millions of files out there, ready to be downloaded and printed, but the tool really comes to its fruition if you get a bit of experience in CAD as well. It can be something as simple as Tinkercad, but it'll help you design custom parts within an hour and then have them printed the following morning. Never be afraid to experiment.
Hairspray. Brilliant for bed stickiness. PLA ST is tough stuff.
Hairspray? Brilliant! Ive been using a glue stick on the glass bed, messy but it works great. Hairspray just seems like it would be cleaner.
Hairspray is the way. I use Rave.
I love the mic showing up in the corner when showing off the "hammer"
OMG!!!! You showed (GASP) a GUN!!!! RUN!! LOL makes me like your channel even MORE!!!!!!
Another tip for a fork seal driver - electrical tape. Wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the fork to make a lip and just slide/hammer the outer tube up to the lip you just made and it'll sandwich the seal into place
My son CAD designs parts for me to print and use. So far I've had a TRIUMPH Speed Triple headstem castle nut tool that handled 40nm, an air ram intake for the Triumph, an axle seal driver tool for my Toyota Hilux and a TPU Garmin gps crash pad mount for my WR450. It's amazing to be able to make things at home that work so well.
I use my 3D printer for most motorcycle parts since hard to find parts. Not certain material choices but mostly i use ABS, TPU. Can cut down print times alot wit 0.6 or 1mm nozzle. Liked the video
I've used the fork seal driver a few times. They like to explode under use, but they do work and are the right price!
I have a Prusa mini+ that has paid for itself in just small parts for around the house. I use it a lot for electronics projects too. The Prusa printers are super reliable. I’ve only had to replace a fan after two yea4d of constant printing, the bed self levels, and I have never had to use adhesives to get my prints to stick. Out of hundreds of prints, less than 10 have give; me issues. I’m glad you got a printer!🎉
That was a fun video. Looking forward to the carbon fiber parts!
Years back I had one of those chain cleaners and it was pretty useful. Not for a dirt bike, but a road bike. It was $30.
I like the hammer the best. These videos are becoming more of a comedy sketch and I love em.
Printing a guitar wall hanging bracket as we speak, I’ve made so much great stuff!
Love the content Craig, keep it coming brother. 🙏🏼
So glad you wrenched a printer of threedees Craig really made my day. My goldfish not so.
Printshootrepeat hides his face with a mask. Craig frames his with a beard.
Great hammer
A very useful tool to 3D print is a wheel balancing adapter. Designed and printed one for my Multistrada 1260S so the rear rim could fit a 32$ wheel balancing kit. Much cheaper than buying a 150$ adapter dedicated for a specific model/brand.
This video was all over the place and I love it!
Craig casually hammering away as a subtle message about his stance on freedoms? No clue, but I am taking it that way! +1
Love the hammer! I've been printing for a couple years it's a sweet hobby.
Heres a top tip too, If your using SD cards and start getting layer shifts that screw up your prints, Try a new SD card before you mess the printer up.
They work well for 3d printing air filter holders for motorcycles.
Love the new vid Craig, could you print say a replacement float for a carb 😮 that be handy now
On the chain cleaner the tabs at the end and for a string or cord to tie it to the frame to free up a hand and keep fingers away from the sprockets
You can use TPU to print gaskets for things like starter cover caps or anything that doesn't get hot
Because of this video I believe I can fix stuff too! You rock, Dan well, every Craig needs a Dan
lol Ebensburg represent here - saw that sticker on the blue Yamaha bike! Went to school there for exactly 2 years at Holy Name back in the 70s.
There are thousands of settings to change. Even materials changes may necessitate parameter changes.
you need octoprint, to remotely manage and monitor your prints.
runs on a Pi, and gives you tons of remote control options, including time lapse recordings.
I use a resin printer to print incredibly detailed parts and molds. The resolution on a cheap resin printer is amazing. If you print a castle with spires and flags on top, the flag poles are like needles and will stab you, they're that fine. Anywho, molds are good too, spray with mold release, pour in some other resin and cast your part. I'll bet some resins are good enough to cast brake and clutch levers, and would stand up to abuse.
Craig had a 3d printer for 24 hours and immediately started printing 80% lowers, love it 😂
Good Job. I 3d print a lot of prototype parts. If you plan to test the part, print it at 100% infill. You will be surprised how strong PLA is.
I own four FDM printers, two SLA printers, and two lasers! I have been printing for over ten years and have created many designs and prints for customers. There are many different types of filament! Some are highly flexible, others are highly resistant to hear and yet others are very strong. You are using most likely PLA which is the weakest filament that you could choose. The rats nest as we call it is from lack of adhesion on the first layer. Clean your bed with alcohol and slow the first layer down to about 30 mms. Also make sure the first layer squish is good!
I've printed handlebar end cap adapters, TPU prints for washers/spacers for vibration and silencing rattles. Also beefier luggage buckles after they break and melt onto the muffler. wish i could figure out 3d modelling because i would like to make end plugs for the chrome tubing that I've cut off some of the luggage rack.
BTW if you want to use a gun, for a hammer, use a High Point! indestructible and shoots well also
Look into 3d printed gaskets. TPU is incredibly tough stuff and makes some amazing gaskets. It's by far what I use my printer for most in my shop. Even complex shapes.
Recently got a ender3 s1. Nice printer..I've made a 650 kz lever..abs filament..90%infill.super strong.chain luber to,handy dandy.lots of fun stuff on the webs.tpu can do gaskets.
The last 3D-printed tool I used was a bicycle suspension fork preload adjuster wrench from eBay. The bloody thing broke as soon as any torque was applied to it. It's been replaced by a CNC machined anodized aluminium wrench which works fine, and looks a lot prettier as well. I think it's fair to say that it's going to be a while before 3D printing puts all the tool companies out of business.
watched all your videos, been waiting for you to drop another
I’ve been using 3D printers for 8 years and basic materials will not do well under torque. That said, I used it successfully to design custom motorcycle parts to test before having a fab shop make my actual parts. As for the failed print, kudos for not giving up like some people when it happens.
Craig, if your not already, use glue stick on your bed to help prevent fails and spaghetti. It works for a wide range of materials, but not all. Just extra insurance and you can pull the build plate off and wash it under the sink to easily remove the glue. You can usually get a few prints off one application however.
One way to make a more robust tool on a 3D printer is to print using Carbon Fiber Nylon. They call it "black aluminum" and it's considerably tougher than PLA if it's printed properly. The issue is that the printer you have is a bed slinger and those printers can only do an adequate job of printing low temp filaments like PLA and PETG. Bambu Labs makes a printer called the X1C for about $999 that can print CF Nylon. I have made useful tools out of PLA and PETG. A low end consumer grade 3D printer can absolutely make useful tools, but it can't make tools that have the requisite strength needed to torque things down really. I have a printer that can conceivably print CF Nylon well, but I haven't needed to print that material just yet.
For anything that really needs to get stressed, a normal print isn't going to cut it. Concerning bikes I found it more useful to make spacers, brackets or confirming sizing etc. of models for small fixtures before having them made somewhere. Last thing we made were small enclosures for a USB battery charging circuit, so we could keep our phones charged on our old bikes. The prints aren't fully waterproof of course, but decent enough to keep it protected under the seat.
You’ll be buying a Bambu X1C with an AMS soon I bet. I started 2016 on a CR-10 and just got the X1C which is one of the best 3d printers today I’d say. Hammer time!!!
So the spammer wrench had me thinking that maybe that could work as a template more than an actual wrench. This was a cool video.
I’ve made a usable scanner out of glass fiber reinforced ptfe. It got my gland nut loose. But, still didn’t last long. Metal printing and autoclave sintering would work better.
When your ready for a real 3D printer. Bamboo labs P1S iss a big step up. Love mine. I make trays and boxes to organize.
there great for that
Just got my first 3d Printer myself. It's a blast!
i buy first cheap printer and then i build own biggest and better printer, easy make and simple use.
yup officially favorite channel
If you want to make tools, you get a 3D printer, a metal forge + a casting set up. Depending on the forge you can make aluminum, copper, brass or even iron casted tools from 3d printed molds.
😅 i have used a chunk of p. V c pipe for a lot of years, and it's does a very good job of seeding seals for the forks
Hey buddy! Love the “ Hammer” 😉 figured I’d let you know that your Hammer will work just fine with that hole in the grip. Looks like you’re missing some parts though…!im sure you know you need but ill send you a list if you dont