Dude word from the wise, pack your wheel bearings from the open side only so that when you see your new grease coming out the small side you know all voids are filled. If you pack from both sides before it is full you run the risk of an air pocket or an area void of grease. Your wheel bearing nut should be tightened then back it off to insure the bearings are seated properly. Hand tighten with your fingers is NOT enough! Have a great Memorial Day!!!
Hey guys just a couple tips from an rv tech and inspector here. When you put that Grease seal in, do NOT use a hammer. Use a piece of wood like a 2×4 and hammer on that. It will distribute the blows evenly to the seal. When using a hammer, you run the risk of damaging it. And another very important one, when putting on the castle nut, you want to torque it to 50 ft lbs then back it off and then hand tighten it. This will seat everything properly.
Whoa Nelly!!! As many people have said your "finger tight" nut will NOT be enough and will be dangerous for you and others. You have not seated the bearings properly and the entire apparatus is going to loosen and wobble. If you leave it as is you will likely ruin the spindle, bearings, and potentially could have the wheel "freeze up" and potentially even fall off when driving. Currently it is not safe! I would stop wherever you are at and take the time to resolve this error. It will take you no time at all to remove the tire/grease cap and tighten the nut until you feel a marked increase resistance when spinning the drum. Then slowly back the nut out (lefty loosey) while turning the brake drum. The brake drum should turn freely as the nut is loosened. It usually takes about 1/4-1/2 turn out to free up the drum. You may also consider replacing the remaining drums/bearings sooner than later. The money you are saving now is going to haunt you later and likely at a time when it is less convenient to repair. Last advice - use shrink wrap over the crimp connectors to keep moisture out of the crimp connection. Moisture plus current will rust out the connection. For areas under a vehicle and near the tires where water is thrown all over the wires I usually solder the connections and double up on the shrink wrap. Good luck and be safe!
I was taught that with new bearings you should tighten nut down till you can’t turn hub to make sure bearings are seated properly then back nut off. Have safe travels and a good Memorial Day
You have no clue how many times we've pulled out of the campground and forgot to get the trash out of the truck bed. I've been a mechanic my whole life, I love seeing people step out of their comfort zone and try fixing things themselves. It's not rocket science, If i can learn to do it, any body can. Great video guys.
Wow! Y'all really opened yourself up for the comments on this one, didn't you? I'm a 60-year-old woman and me and one of my other 60-year-old woman friends do a lot of this kind of stuff on our vehicles and around her ranch. We watch a few UA-cam videos and then just kind of take a little bit from everything. Nothing we've done has broken or killed us yet. So... Take all the "you have to do it this way!" comments with a grain of salt. I'm not saying they are wrong, I'm just saying there's more than one way to skin a cat. Y'all are freaking awesome and I get so excited on Thursdays when your videos come out.
Absolutely there are multiple ways to skin a cat, but you also want to make sure you are doing it right the first time. Running a bearing too loose or tight, too little grease, a failed seal, improperly set brakes, etc is a great way to have bearing failures, fires or completely ruining a spindle leading to a new axle. Imagine a bearing and spindle nut failing and the tire and hub assembly bouncing down the highway into the windshield of oncoming traffic.
FYI, to pack bearings by hand: put some greese in your palm (as you said) you only pack from the large side, keep packing till you see it come out the small side of the bearing. The grease will push all the way through the bearing, removing all the air with greese. And yes, once the hub is put back on, don't over pump grease. If you do, it will drip on the inside and get on your new break shows. Overall, you scored a 9 out of 10.
Invest $15-$20 to buy an infrared thermometer, and check the temps of all your wheel hubs from time to time. If there's any problem with bearings or brakes, it first shows up as extra hot wheel hubs. You can head off expensive problems.
This week I watched "a different RV couple" get a high end inverter and high end lithium batteries installed on their high end RV by a high end shop (and probably didn't spend any of their own money in the transaction) and I watched the Hanks(es) swap out their own brakes and bearings. Guess which video appealed to me more?
I know exactly who you're talking about, I watched them too. I like them, but yeah, I don't think they're paying for any of that stuff either. And they look like they got the money to buy it themselves . Yeah the Hanks are getting it done all on their own. I would love to afford lithium batteries and solar panels and the whole shebang . Ain't nobody giving anything to me for free👍🇺🇲
You need to tighten the nut with a wrench while spinning the hub to seat the bearings, then loosen it, and tighten it until it is snug without moving the hub. After you have the clip on spin the hub then check for play in the bearings by trying to rock the drum. There should be little or no movement. There is no need to fill the hub up with grease using the zerk fitting.
Please please check this again. At least jack the trailer up again with the leveler and see if both side feel the same. Wobble it. I agree the wheel bearings are not set/tightened correctly
Gary, things have changed a bit. That fitting fills the center of the shaft and comes out at the rear bearing. So you spin the wheel and pump the grease into the zerk and it fills the rear bearing the whole void and the front bearing. You still want to fill the bearings by hand initially, but in a year you can just remove rubber cap, pump the fitting and pump fresh grease into the bearings without taking them all apart.
Out of all the RV living YT channels, I relate to yours the most. All the DIY'ing that you do to save money and also be able to say, "Check out what I just accomplished!" While there's bound to be minor setbacks and post-fix moments of, "Oops, I should have...", it feels so satisfying when a self-done job is a great success! Well done, Hanks!!
You guys really need to get some jack stands for something like this. Relying on the hydraulic jack to keep the trailer in an elevated position over time is dangerous...if a seal blows it will collapse suddenly and if you're under it at the time, you're going to have a very bad day. Use the bottle jack to raise the trailer, but it raised with jack stands. Good call re: breaker bar. One more benefit that you didn't mention is that a breaker bar never runs out of battery juice.
Hey guys, quick note on brake controls: Your truck has a progressive brake controller and will only apply a fraction of the gain as you press the brake pedal. It is really important to set the brake controller gain correctly so the full brake capacity is available in case of an emergency stop. There are some great UA-cam videos out there on setting your gain, check em out. You guys rock, thanks for making awesome videos!
As an Army mechanic, who changed many hubs, tires etc.. this brings back memories. 130 pound girl trying to break loose or torque 300+ lb torque was a challenge and I often grabbed help from the bigger guys! Good and not so great memories! But always fun learning and accomplishing tough challenges!! Just a suggested… grab a rubber mallet for tapping in the seals and if you do this often get some seal presses to tap on the seals evenly! Less chance of marring them.
Oh and also put a substantial amount of extra grease inside the hub between the bearings as well. That way it will feed the bearing when it gets hot and actually recirculate the grease. something we learned in school
Fifth wheels don’t have much if any side to side “wagging” compared to bumper pulls. But yes, tapping the trailer brakes will stop it. Also, load distribution is the biggest cause. Not enough tongue weight normally. 10% of the load for bumper pulls.
Sir, you put that nut on wrong. You need to tighten with Channel Locks (push down hard) or a nut driver to push the bearings/hub into place fully. Then back the nut off and hand tighten. You can get the manual from Dexter Axles (Service manual) which will walk you through this whole process.......I'd hate to have you burn up your axel and bearings or have a major wheel problem......Stay safe you two!
Carl, You really need to seat the new bearings after repacking them. Per Dexter you need to tighten the nut while spinning the hub by hand and you reach about 50 ft/lbs of torque. While holding the hub from spinning loosen the spindle nut just slightly so you can retighten by hand before placing the nut retainer back on. Failure to do this will result in the tire and hub to wobble on the bearings causing premature wear of the bearings, tires, and brake pads. Also, it was great to meet you guys in person while in Valdez, AK. We really liked the photo of my wife and I with you.
Hey there hanks! I’ve been watching your videos for a while now, and just got my new grand design imagine TT. Thank you guys so much for lighting the way into a life I’ve always dreamed of having. Leaving the sticks and bricks behind and exploring the world. Happy travels friends. ~The Highlander
I have to agree with others. You need to tighten the bearing nuts with a wrench first to seat them then back off about 1/4-1/2 turn. This will seat the bearings properly and then allow enough slack for the temperature rise .
Just a little FYI, when torquing lug nuts you should check them after the first 100 miles of driving. Just a good safty tip from a former mechanic. Keep up the great content.
Hi Hanks... Most everyone has commented on the good job, so I will keep mine short. Be careful when you add grease using that spindle. The issue is you can't really see how much you are adding and putting too much pressure on the back seal. If that seal pops, you will burn up your bearings in a matter of seconds and if you don't catch it soon enough, it could ruin your spindle. It is surprising how 'little' grease you actually need in there. Like you said, there is a happy spot, but typically, if you pack the bearings correctly, add a little more to the inside of things, you really don't need to add much more, if any. I re-pack every year, and about half-way through the season, depending on the amount of driving, I may add 1-3 pumps just to add some fresh stuff, but that is it. Never had an issue. Keep up the fun videos!
I agree with others something going on with your impact. Mine will break the studs off (ask me how i know). As far as the bearings you can't learn unless you try. So you have a head start for next time. Safe travels!
Good job guys! Two things I think you should have done is to spin hub while tightening nut and use channel locks to seat bearings. The second thing most do-it youself people is, DO NOT use grease gun! You have a good chance of putting too much grease in and get grease on your brake shoes. Other than that a really good video.
State parks and COE campgrounds are awesome. I decided to change the front wheel bearings on our 36ft class A I did it. I needed 2 day to recover physically
check your setting on your impact driver. the black button allows you to select between tourqe settings, 1 being the lowest 3 being the highest and 4 being an auto tourqe, meaning it changes with load on the impact. it looked like your impact was set to 2. I could be wrong. I hope that helps!
Morning Hanks, just wanted to say we went to Bucee’s over the weekend and at least at the New Braunfels one they no longer sale the rainbow coffee mug. It is now a collectible. We watch y’all every week. Thanks for sharing your experiences. We have purchased many of your changes for our trailer. The Amens.
Just FYI on the Milwaukee Impact wrench. It has a button just above the battery attachment that has 4 settings. I didn’t notice this when I first got mine and it will torque at different levels it has 4 LED lights. 1 is very light and won’t torque very hard. 4 LED it should take just about anything off. The DIY on breaks and bearings always makes me nervous, it could lead to big issues if done wrong. Only did bearings once with brother in law. I need to do again to be sure I got it down. Good luck.
As a bearing sales professional for over 44 years, I would like to kinda echo/refute some of the comments so far: first, you should clean the bearings and check them for any pitting or scratches on the rolling surfaces- INCLUDING the bearing races which are inside the drum. If they look fine, just clean them further and put back on. I did not see you replace those races, and I highly doubt that the hubs came with them, and replacing just the bearing cones (the part that has the conical roller bearings) is not considered good practice. Now, the finger-tight issue: if you're not replacing the bearings or removing the races, then it's still a good idea to tighten up the retaining nut after spinning the hub a few turns, then backing the nut off a bit. As bearings heat up, they will expand and they need that little bit of play to allow that. And you definitely want to tighten them good before backing off when you do replace the races so they seat properly in the hub. The other issue I saw was greasing the grease zerk on the spindle. I don't know exactly what that is greasing, but you DO NOT want to fill the entire hub up with grease! Grease retains heat, and believe it or not, more bearings fail from OVER-greasing than they do under-greasing. I had a 37 foot toyhauler that came with "Bearing Buddies", and one of the service centers I took it in for service before a trip decided to unload what seemed to be a 120 lb keg of grease into the 6 wheels, and wound up filling the entire hub AND brake assembly. This was one a significant trip where we were 1,000's of miles away and I had to spend almost $2,000 to have everything replaced by a local shop (they went through 2 cases of brake cleaner just to clean up the mess!).
Also, DO NOT handle bearings with your bare hands. The oils on your skin will cause corrosion and may lead to premature failure. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
The PB blaster helped more than you think. That stuff is a miracle worker on rusted/stuck bolts and nuts. They also make a tool that you set the bearings in to grease them. It's not to expensive and does a better job than hand packing.
Of course it did nothing when they just shot it on the outside of the Chrome lug nuts. It needs to get down to the base and the stud where the rest is occurring. There's actually a great UA-cam video called "project farm" and he does great videos on everything from rust inhibitors to the best cordless tools. He has a great one on different penetrating oils. Most of them do nothing. As I recall the candle wax did the best.
You're doing it correctly. Use breaker bar to bust loose lug nuts and only use impact to take them off or snug them on, then use torque wrench to finish. Because if you strip the studs it's a big problem.
Yes like stated in the posts. First: When tightening the wheel bearing nut tighten it pretty firm while turning the drum to insure the bearing and grease has zero clearance, then loosen the nut until finger Tight, then tighten the nut so there is a little more than finger tightness. (Pliers turn just so there is very slight preload on the bearing from the nut.) This will allow for Some minor seating. Second: the cavity between the two bearings should have some air space between them to allow for some heat expansion from the grease. Yes the grease you used is one of the best on the market. There should be very little expansion if any. If the outside bearing cap has an air pocket it will be fine.
Dang, I live just 60 miles from Atlanta St. Pk. and had decided we were gonna ride up tomorrow and meet y'all. But, I guess that will be for another time. Yes, breaker bar, sockets, impact, 12 ton jack. All are important. We have been camping for over 40 yrs. Started off with a tent, then a pop up. Now, Grand Design Reflection 337RLS. We love it. Just stayed for 5 weeks in Branson MO. God bless y'all. Hope to run into y'all sometimes.
You handled that like a pro! I replaced the hubs on our boat trailer. Once I got the grease all in the hubs and it started coming out I stopped and the next time I took the boat out and got home I hit the bearings again with the grease gun just to make sure that the bearings were 100% all good. They did each take a few pumps so you may want to do that at some point.
Wow, y'all get a lot of comments. I loved watching you working on your wheel. It took me back to 1987 when I was in auto shop packing my Mustang's bearings. Your videos give me more confidence that my husband and I can handle some of the maintenance when we retire and start our RV life. Thank you for sharing a balance of the joys and challenges you experience.
My advice to you from my dad who was a car and truck mecanic for 40 years, my dad would tight the bearing very tight and then turn back on it a quarter turn. It was always perfect.
Definitely should pack grease in from the larger side till it comes out on the opposing side. Also always tighten down that axel nut with a wrench using moderate force to make sure everything is seated. Then loosen back up and set it to hand tight or zero preload. As far as the brake wire, make sure you seal that connection with a piece of shrink tubing to keep water out. Otherwise it is going to corrode and stop working. But great job taking it on. Always enjoy the realistic, entertaining and inspiring content you share. Thanks for keeping it real and have fun.
As plenty of people have said, PB Blaster is nice. With that said. You are not supposed to have any lubricant on lug nuts. If you hadn't installed new studs with the drum, you would have cleaned everything off of the studs and lug nuts with brake cleaner before reinstalling them.
We love watching your videos. We're full-timers too and working to build our UA-cam channel. I enjoy seeing the angles you shoot some of your videos from. That gives me some good ideas.
Ok….am I crazy…but in the clip of Alaska low out…..the tires were so close together…..was that because one was a spare? But way to go guys….love your videos. Learn something every time. I am now just 3 short years away from retirement and full time rving….and have decided to do a 5th wheel! So excited! ❤️❤️
Next, replace the 14ga break wires inside your axle tubes with 10ga 36 stranded wire fastened to the backside of each axle. Why? The factory installed wire will wear from vibration and ground out. I just completely replaced my break wires from the pinbox all the way to the break hubs. The wire insulation in both axles had been compromised to where you could see or feel the copper wire poking through. Along with that, there is evidence of water entering the axle tube from wet roads which could be the reason why my trips to Valdez would leave me with intermittent breaks. (which is a completely different feeling than just wet break shoes that need to dry). I have pictures of these wires if you are interested. Safe Travels!!
Dave here and proper storage of clicker torque wrenches is my pet peeve. Always set clicker torque wrenches to their minimum setting when not in use. Stay safe!
My wife and I enjoy your videos; great prep when we get our trailer. Just a note: make sure the wire crimps are waterproof. The ones you used were not; watch for corrosion or replace. Otherwise, well done. Happy travels, Hanks!
UA-cam university is a good resource for most anything rv related…not being afraid is half the battle, you go guys and having some tools is a great thing also Good job get some jack stands
I didn't see the step where you seat the bearings by torqueing the axle nut to 50 ft/lbs to press the bearing assembly fully together, the back the axle nut off and then hand tighten the axle nut; last put the axle nut retainer clip on. Doing this will remove excess looseness of you bearing. All else looked good. We all hate rework, but this step will only require access to the axle nut. BTW, we love your channel. Considering the traveling nurse gig ourselves. I'm retired and RV'd full time for four years already. My wife has been a nurse for many years. Cheers!
Other folks have mentioned that impact guns come in a variety of sizes/power, from under 100 ft/lbs to over 1000 ft/lbs, so having the right gun for the job makes a big difference. But, like you said, mechanics sometimes over torque things by a lot. I’d recommend loosening all of them before needed and retightening them to the proper torque, so the right impact gun will work next time. It’s just much quicker in a roadside emergency situation.
Hey Hanks. Great job replacing your breaks and new bearings. I love watching your videos. Your videos are helping people save money showing them they can do it themselves. Great job!!!!!!
Remember there are right and left hand brake assemblies. You can actuate them by hand if you move the magnet the correct way. If you bolt them on the wrong side you will have zero breaking action. And never install your bearings dry always hand pack them with wheel bearing grease. The grease gun method is just for periodic maintenance when you give them several pumps of Grease after they already have grease in them.
Since we drove 900 miles to camp at a place in Texas that totally clouded over moments before totality I feel the need to pick on you and say by black & yellow impact laughs at your red impact. lol Just kidding of course. Love you guys videos and glad Dex made an appearance. (I carry a breaker bar as well) Wait, wait...and RV video without an ad from a certain mattress company??? My head just exploded.
If you are having trouble getting the lug nuts to move, a short length of steel pipe slipped over the end of the breaker bar will give you a little bit more leverage to get the nuts moving.
Informative. A few things for your followers. Bearings need to be seated using your breaker bar and then back off. If not seated properly they will damage the bearings, hub and possibly the spindle. Find a video that shows more detail, find proper torque for back plate, remind everyone to re torque the wheels after 60 to 100 miles. Keep the videos coming, between your videos and some of the comments it will help people help themselves . Stay safe.
We have the same trailer, and also had a problem with the levelling system. I called Grand Design and they told me to reset the system. Disconnect the feed, you will find it in the front storage area, on the wall on the top of the big set of connectors. I found it by looking at the colors of the wires at the levelling screen, then following them back to the connection. Disconnect for 10-20 seconds to reset the system, then reconnect. Ours has worked fine ever since. Good Luck!
Well you guys did pretty good and I see others gave you hints. Yes the right tools for the job makes thing easier. My breaker bar and dead blow hammer never ran out of battery and my paper maps never lost cell service. A short basic auto repair course wouldn’t hurt to take.I might be able to do basic things to fix things but I can’t sew up a wound or patch somebody up. We all have out strengths and weakness.
Good on ya for not being afraid to tackle a job like that. I think everyone should have a basic understanding of how brakes work and that they do require regular maintenance on trailers. A few Notes that should be addressed before a trip, the Tapered Roller Bearings require a preload more than just hand tight. Asking for trouble and premature failure, what my technique is, is to tighten the nut with channel locks with one hand while spinning the drum with the other, this will make sure the bearings are seated and you can feel the preload start to slow the drum. Not crazy tight, just the weight of the channel locks and my arm plus a smidge. Usually I have to clock the castle nut to line up with a cotter key, but in your case it will just need to be lined up so the lock goes on. And there should be no play in the bearing with wheel on and rocking it up and down/side to side. Also it sounds like the shoes are at the right adjustment from the video but also a periodic thing that should be checked, should be an access plate in the back to get to the adjuster. Also after any brake job I like to verify operation to confirm the new magnet or hydro set is operating properly, don’t want to find that out rolling down the road. And good job on the other parts of the job keeping parts clean with the box and not filling everything with dirt. And a good battery powered half inch impact and socket is a must have for the road, make those jobs way quicker with a flat. Can still torque it installing.
Carl so glad to see you use a torque wrench to tension those lug nuts. People don't realize he ow important that is, i teach a precision maintenance class and that is one of the things we discuss. Great job on resetting that torque wrench to a low setting as well also very important to do!! Great job both of you!
Get. A 3 or 4 foot piece of 3/4 inch galvanized pipe nipple. Slide it OVER the breaker bar 1/3 or the bar and you have extended your breaker bar,,, INCREASING YOUR MECHANIC ADVANTAGE OF THE LEVER( breaker bar).. Also buy a cheap ft pounds TORQUE WRENCH
Don't forget the final adjustment on the brakes found on the inside of the hub. Screw driver through the slot. Plenty of videos showing the best practices including the packing of bearings and the proper way to tighten the retainer nut or castle nut, whatever you have. Otherwise, great job. I'd read as much and watch as much as I can so I don't miss a thing. Best to do it right the first time. Learn from the mistakes of others, I always say.
All leveling in my 2006 Montana is all done manually so I carry a 4 ton floor jack with me and of course jackstands. The reason I’m saying this is the floor jack has a long handle that’s removable and I use that as a torque bar extension, really handy device and no need for more or extra tools! Great DIY video! Rollo
Thanks for the video. I am also not a professional mechanic but I have done plenty of brake jobs. I would also recommend using a rubber mallet instead of a hammer to help loosen the drum from the hub. In your case, you replaced the drum so no worries if it cracked.
A bearing packer pushes grease through one way. When it comes out the small side it is packed. As for over grease yes it can be done. We had our 5th wheel into the dealer one time for some warranty work. While it was in there I asked them to lube the spindles. If they are over greased and grease gets on the shoes it works opposite of what most people think. The brakes lock up as soon as you touch the peddle even with the controller backed way down. I had to cut the wires to that brake to get home without sliding that tire. Later I pulled that hub and some moron had pumped so much grease in it that it popped the seal out and everything inside was covered in grease. I did not take it back to the dealer. I don't want unskilled people like that working on my stuff.
Really glad to hear that you guys enjoyed beautiful north east Texas. I've lived hear in the area 52 years and its a great place. Someday the wife and I hope to see you guys out on the road since y'all seem to be a crazy fun couple. Stay safe!
Btw please take time to recheck that bearing preload after a short trip. Always spin it as you snug it up, after it's tight then loosen back up. The grease will take up valuable space needed for the bearings.
You were talking about your jacks airing out if you call Leopard they will walk you through what's wrong with them for free. you can look at the manual I found that ours just needed to be reset the correct way.
couple things guys, nice new tools, including that impact wrench, um which setting did you have it(impact wrench) on when trying to break those lug nuts loose? There should be 4 settings, 1 being kinda bad *ss and 3 being holy smokes twist the world in half......maybe next time try setting 3 lol it'll get 'em off no problem. The settings are just above the battery, its a little button. A breaker bar is a nice back up. ALWAYS use a torque wrench when putting lug nuts back on so you don't over torque the nuts. Do not travel with the bearing nut only finger tight, super CRITICAL!! you need to properly seat the bearings to a torque setting while rotating the brake drum back and forth then back off the nut a quarter turn then assemble the retainer!!
A breaker bar is an essential tool. I used mine every time I have a tire rotation with a oil change on my cars. The shops just crank down the lugs way too much. The only way to back them out is with a breaker bar and then torque 'em down with the torque wrench to the proper poundage.
Friendly advise. When changing the brakes, make sure they are very loose and cause no friction as it will throw off your bearing seating. I usually sit the bearing nut quite tight, this ensures the bearing is well seated. I then back off and tighten slowly until I get a little hub friction. Lock into to place and then adjust brakes.
Good on you for tackling this. I did the same for my front class c motorhome brakes. I have been doing my car brakes for years but doing such a large vehicle was scary at first and I was terrified to do the bearings. It’s such a sense of accomplishment when you finish though. Whoever last installed the wheels used lock tite on the bolts so I had to take them to the mechanic to have them removed. So annoying. Lots of UA-cam videos and research. I learned the hard way with my car to always check torque specs for every bolt you install and yeah what everyone said about the grease and bearings.
You should also put grease on the axle surface that the seal rides on and coat the seal lips with grease. Use a piece of wood over the seal to hammer the seal in vs hitting the seal with the hammer.
If you can do the work on your RV yourself I say do it! You can fix it today instead of having to wait a week just to get you in line at an RV center. you both did good.
If those lug nuts have metal "sleeves" replace them with all metal, not sleeve! I learned this the hard way. This was at the advise of Discount tire. The problem is that they will slip and turn on you regardless of what impact or leverage tool to remove. Result, if you out on the road and this happens, your in big trouble. Replace if they are this type with sleeves.
@@archaney Same here. I was at home. Took the lug nuts to Direct Tire. The tech there said they run into this all the time with factory lug nuts that get stripped.
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Dude word from the wise, pack your wheel bearings from the open side only so that when you see your new grease coming out the small side you know all voids are filled. If you pack from both sides before it is full you run the risk of an air pocket or an area void of grease. Your wheel bearing nut should be tightened then back it off to insure the bearings are seated properly. Hand tighten with your fingers is NOT enough! Have a great Memorial Day!!!
My thoughts exactly, just a slight bearing preload then back off.
Was just about to say the same thing.
Also need to put more grease on the spindle. While packing your bearings, rotate them so all surfaces are covered.
Correct that's how you pack them ... thanks !!
Buy a bearing packer.
Hey guys just a couple tips from an rv tech and inspector here. When you put that Grease seal in, do NOT use a hammer. Use a piece of wood like a 2×4 and hammer on that. It will distribute the blows evenly to the seal. When using a hammer, you run the risk of damaging it. And another very important one, when putting on the castle nut, you want to torque it to 50 ft lbs then back it off and then hand tighten it. This will seat everything properly.
Whoa Nelly!!! As many people have said your "finger tight" nut will NOT be enough and will be dangerous for you and others. You have not seated the bearings properly and the entire apparatus is going to loosen and wobble. If you leave it as is you will likely ruin the spindle, bearings, and potentially could have the wheel "freeze up" and potentially even fall off when driving. Currently it is not safe! I would stop wherever you are at and take the time to resolve this error. It will take you no time at all to remove the tire/grease cap and tighten the nut until you feel a marked increase resistance when spinning the drum. Then slowly back the nut out (lefty loosey) while turning the brake drum. The brake drum should turn freely as the nut is loosened. It usually takes about 1/4-1/2 turn out to free up the drum. You may also consider replacing the remaining drums/bearings sooner than later. The money you are saving now is going to haunt you later and likely at a time when it is less convenient to repair. Last advice - use shrink wrap over the crimp connectors to keep moisture out of the crimp connection. Moisture plus current will rust out the connection. For areas under a vehicle and near the tires where water is thrown all over the wires I usually solder the connections and double up on the shrink wrap. Good luck and be safe!
Good job! Love your channel. Take kenttalcot8428 advice. You really need to seat those bearings.
I was taught that with new bearings you should tighten nut down till you can’t turn hub to make sure bearings are seated properly then back nut off. Have safe travels and a good Memorial Day
I second this, spin the wheel and tighten until it stops. Then back off slowly until it free spins.
100% true. Also check them after driving the first time after repair.
Correct, I used to work on flatbed trailers in the Army...need to seat the bearings. Sorry, truly hope there are no issues.
You have no clue how many times we've pulled out of the campground and forgot to get the trash out of the truck bed. I've been a mechanic my whole life, I love seeing people step out of their comfort zone and try fixing things themselves. It's not rocket science, If i can learn to do it, any body can. Great video guys.
Wow! Y'all really opened yourself up for the comments on this one, didn't you? I'm a 60-year-old woman and me and one of my other 60-year-old woman friends do a lot of this kind of stuff on our vehicles and around her ranch. We watch a few UA-cam videos and then just kind of take a little bit from everything. Nothing we've done has broken or killed us yet. So... Take all the "you have to do it this way!" comments with a grain of salt. I'm not saying they are wrong, I'm just saying there's more than one way to skin a cat. Y'all are freaking awesome and I get so excited on Thursdays when your videos come out.
Absolutely there are multiple ways to skin a cat, but you also want to make sure you are doing it right the first time. Running a bearing too loose or tight, too little grease, a failed seal, improperly set brakes, etc is a great way to have bearing failures, fires or completely ruining a spindle leading to a new axle. Imagine a bearing and spindle nut failing and the tire and hub assembly bouncing down the highway into the windshield of oncoming traffic.
FYI, to pack bearings by hand: put some greese in your palm (as you said) you only pack from the large side, keep packing till you see it come out the small side of the bearing. The grease will push all the way through the bearing, removing all the air with greese.
And yes, once the hub is put back on, don't over pump grease. If you do, it will drip on the inside and get on your new break shows.
Overall, you scored a 9 out of 10.
Good job. FYI: Your wire butt-end connectors have a built in heat shrink to prevent water intrusion.
Yeah I noticed they didn't do that either.
Invest $15-$20 to buy an infrared thermometer, and check the temps of all your wheel hubs from time to time. If there's any problem with bearings or brakes, it first shows up as extra hot wheel hubs. You can head off expensive problems.
This week I watched "a different RV couple" get a high end inverter and high end lithium batteries installed on their high end RV by a high end shop (and probably didn't spend any of their own money in the transaction) and I watched the Hanks(es) swap out their own brakes and bearings.
Guess which video appealed to me more?
I know exactly who you're talking about, I watched them too. I like them, but yeah, I don't think they're paying for any of that stuff either. And they look like they got the money to buy it themselves . Yeah the Hanks are getting it done all on their own. I would love to afford lithium batteries and solar panels and the whole shebang . Ain't nobody giving anything to me for free👍🇺🇲
KYD?
You are right. They didn’t pay for it. You did by watching their video. UA-cam money.
@@JakeDerr1450 That and product placement (which is UA-cam money of a different color).
@@sneidsontheroad yes
You need to tighten the nut with a wrench while spinning the hub to seat the bearings, then loosen it, and tighten it until it is snug without moving the hub. After you have the clip on spin the hub then check for play in the bearings by trying to rock the drum. There should be little or no movement.
There is no need to fill the hub up with grease using the zerk fitting.
Please please check this again. At least jack the trailer up again with the leveler and see if both side feel the same. Wobble it. I agree the wheel bearings are not set/tightened correctly
Yes! I hope they see your comment!
Gary, things have changed a bit. That fitting fills the center of the shaft and comes out at the rear bearing. So you spin the wheel and pump the grease into the zerk and it fills the rear bearing the whole void and the front bearing. You still want to fill the bearings by hand initially, but in a year you can just remove rubber cap, pump the fitting and pump fresh grease into the bearings without taking them all apart.
Thanks! Hank's 😊
Dexter did a great job!
Use your weight when loosening those lugs with the breaker bar instead of trying to pull. Great video as usual!
Out of all the RV living YT channels, I relate to yours the most. All the DIY'ing that you do to save money and also be able to say, "Check out what I just accomplished!" While there's bound to be minor setbacks and post-fix moments of, "Oops, I should have...", it feels so satisfying when a self-done job is a great success! Well done, Hanks!!
You guys really need to get some jack stands for something like this. Relying on the hydraulic jack to keep the trailer in an elevated position over time is dangerous...if a seal blows it will collapse suddenly and if you're under it at the time, you're going to have a very bad day. Use the bottle jack to raise the trailer, but it raised with jack stands. Good call re: breaker bar. One more benefit that you didn't mention is that a breaker bar never runs out of battery juice.
Hey guys, quick note on brake controls:
Your truck has a progressive brake controller and will only apply a fraction of the gain as you press the brake pedal.
It is really important to set the brake controller gain correctly so the full brake capacity is available in case of an emergency stop.
There are some great UA-cam videos out there on setting your gain, check em out.
You guys rock, thanks for making awesome videos!
As an Army mechanic, who changed many hubs, tires etc.. this brings back memories. 130 pound girl trying to break loose or torque 300+ lb torque was a challenge and I often grabbed help from the bigger guys! Good and not so great memories! But always fun learning and accomplishing tough challenges!! Just a suggested… grab a rubber mallet for tapping in the seals and if you do this often get some seal presses to tap on the seals evenly! Less chance of marring them.
A block of wood larger than the seal works well for me.
@@davidgates1122 yes. I’ve used those many times 😁
Hey Sister! Thanks for your service!!! I was heavy equipment mechanic in the Seabees.
@@seabeevet9285 Thank YOU for yours as well sister ☺️
Oh and also put a substantial amount of extra grease inside the hub between the bearings as well. That way it will feed the bearing when it gets hot and actually recirculate the grease. something we learned in school
To squeeze the break controller works if you start loosing the rig in a back and forth motion…tap to straighten out…..very important to know!!!
Fifth wheels don’t have much if any side to side “wagging” compared to bumper pulls. But yes, tapping the trailer brakes will stop it. Also, load distribution is the biggest cause. Not enough tongue weight normally. 10% of the load for bumper pulls.
Dad always said to tighten the bearing nut tight then back up one cotter pin slot.
Sir, you put that nut on wrong. You need to tighten with Channel Locks (push down hard) or a nut driver to push the bearings/hub into place fully. Then back the nut off and hand tighten. You can get the manual from Dexter Axles (Service manual) which will walk you through this whole process.......I'd hate to have you burn up your axel and bearings or have a major wheel problem......Stay safe you two!
Carl, You really need to seat the new bearings after repacking them. Per Dexter you need to tighten the nut while spinning the hub by hand and you reach about 50 ft/lbs of torque. While holding the hub from spinning loosen the spindle nut just slightly so you can retighten by hand before placing the nut retainer back on. Failure to do this will result in the tire and hub to wobble on the bearings causing premature wear of the bearings, tires, and brake pads.
Also, it was great to meet you guys in person while in Valdez, AK. We really liked the photo of my wife and I with you.
I did my Dexter axles years ago, and although I don't remember the exact torque number, this sounds exactly how I did mine.
Hey there hanks! I’ve been watching your videos for a while now, and just got my new grand design imagine TT. Thank you guys so much for lighting the way into a life I’ve always dreamed of having. Leaving the sticks and bricks behind and exploring the world. Happy travels friends. ~The Highlander
Y’all make a great pair. I always enjoy watching your adventures.❤
I have to agree with others. You need to tighten the bearing nuts with a wrench first to seat them then back off about 1/4-1/2 turn. This will seat the bearings properly and then allow enough slack for the temperature rise .
Just a little FYI, when torquing lug nuts you should check them after the first 100 miles of driving. Just a good safty tip from a former mechanic. Keep up the great content.
Hi Hanks... Most everyone has commented on the good job, so I will keep mine short. Be careful when you add grease using that spindle. The issue is you can't really see how much you are adding and putting too much pressure on the back seal. If that seal pops, you will burn up your bearings in a matter of seconds and if you don't catch it soon enough, it could ruin your spindle. It is surprising how 'little' grease you actually need in there. Like you said, there is a happy spot, but typically, if you pack the bearings correctly, add a little more to the inside of things, you really don't need to add much more, if any. I re-pack every year, and about half-way through the season, depending on the amount of driving, I may add 1-3 pumps just to add some fresh stuff, but that is it. Never had an issue. Keep up the fun videos!
I agree with others something going on with your impact. Mine will break the studs off (ask me how i know). As far as the bearings you can't learn unless you try. So you have a head start for next time. Safe travels!
Good job guys! Two things I think you should have done is to spin hub while tightening nut and use channel locks to seat bearings. The second thing most do-it youself people is, DO NOT use grease gun! You have a good chance of putting too much grease in and get grease on your brake shoes. Other than that a really good video.
State parks and COE campgrounds are awesome.
I decided to change the front wheel bearings on our 36ft class A
I did it. I needed 2 day to recover physically
check your setting on your impact driver. the black button allows you to select between tourqe settings, 1 being the lowest 3 being the highest and 4 being an auto tourqe, meaning it changes with load on the impact. it looked like your impact was set to 2. I could be wrong. I hope that helps!
We put our trash on the hood of the truck--never forget it! Love you guys!
Morning Hanks, just wanted to say we went to Bucee’s over the weekend and at least at the New Braunfels one they no longer sale the rainbow coffee mug. It is now a collectible.
We watch y’all every week. Thanks for sharing your experiences. We have purchased many of your changes for our trailer.
The Amens.
Just FYI on the Milwaukee Impact wrench. It has a button just above the battery attachment that has 4 settings. I didn’t notice this when I first got mine and it will torque at different levels it has 4 LED lights. 1 is very light and won’t torque very hard. 4 LED it should take just about anything off.
The DIY on breaks and bearings always makes me nervous, it could lead to big issues if done wrong.
Only did bearings once with brother in law. I need to do again to be sure I got it down. Good luck.
Look at you guys being all self sufficient.
As a bearing sales professional for over 44 years, I would like to kinda echo/refute some of the comments so far: first, you should clean the bearings and check them for any pitting or scratches on the rolling surfaces- INCLUDING the bearing races which are inside the drum. If they look fine, just clean them further and put back on. I did not see you replace those races, and I highly doubt that the hubs came with them, and replacing just the bearing cones (the part that has the conical roller bearings) is not considered good practice. Now, the finger-tight issue: if you're not replacing the bearings or removing the races, then it's still a good idea to tighten up the retaining nut after spinning the hub a few turns, then backing the nut off a bit. As bearings heat up, they will expand and they need that little bit of play to allow that. And you definitely want to tighten them good before backing off when you do replace the races so they seat properly in the hub.
The other issue I saw was greasing the grease zerk on the spindle. I don't know exactly what that is greasing, but you DO NOT want to fill the entire hub up with grease! Grease retains heat, and believe it or not, more bearings fail from OVER-greasing than they do under-greasing. I had a 37 foot toyhauler that came with "Bearing Buddies", and one of the service centers I took it in for service before a trip decided to unload what seemed to be a 120 lb keg of grease into the 6 wheels, and wound up filling the entire hub AND brake assembly. This was one a significant trip where we were 1,000's of miles away and I had to spend almost $2,000 to have everything replaced by a local shop (they went through 2 cases of brake cleaner just to clean up the mess!).
Also, DO NOT handle bearings with your bare hands. The oils on your skin will cause corrosion and may lead to premature failure. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
The PB blaster helped more than you think. That stuff is a miracle worker on rusted/stuck bolts and nuts. They also make a tool that you set the bearings in to grease them. It's not to expensive and does a better job than hand packing.
In their insistence, PB blaster did nothing for them.
Of course it did nothing when they just shot it on the outside of the Chrome lug nuts. It needs to get down to the base and the stud where the rest is occurring. There's actually a great UA-cam video called "project farm" and he does great videos on everything from rust inhibitors to the best cordless tools. He has a great one on different penetrating oils. Most of them do nothing. As I recall the candle wax did the best.
@@maxpower9848 PB blaster did NOTHING for them in any way. It wasn’t rust holding the nuts on, it was torque…. 🤦
You're doing it correctly. Use breaker bar to bust loose lug nuts and only use impact to take them off or snug them on, then use torque wrench to finish. Because if you strip the studs it's a big problem.
You guys are awesome. I finally got around to doing my RV air flow upgrade. Thank you for the 15% discount. Safe travels.
So glad you did! Better before the crazy heat comes!
If you're in a jam, a 1/2 " ratchet and a 4-5ft length of pipe to slide over it for leverage works every time.
Yes like stated in the posts.
First: When tightening the wheel bearing nut tighten it pretty firm while turning the drum
to insure the bearing and grease has zero clearance, then loosen the nut until finger
Tight, then tighten the nut so there is a little more than finger tightness. (Pliers turn
just so there is very slight preload on the bearing from the nut.) This will allow for
Some minor seating.
Second: the cavity between the two bearings should have some air space between them
to allow for some heat expansion from the grease. Yes the grease you used is one of
the best on the market. There should be very little expansion if any. If the outside bearing cap
has an air pocket it will be fine.
you need to tighten the nut pretty tight to set the bearing.. then back it off. finger tight.. then add the retainer....
Great video on the brakes I've done brakes for over 50 years and couldn't have explained it better. Awesome video Grandpa Jack
Yes Red sticky greese I used on Big trucks. So it’s good.
I run my gain at 2.5 on the Alumaduty; anything higher and I start overusing the trailer brakes.
I do my trailer brake test the same but at 10-15mph.
Dang, I live just 60 miles from Atlanta St. Pk. and had decided we were gonna ride up tomorrow and meet y'all. But, I guess that will be for another time. Yes, breaker bar, sockets, impact, 12 ton jack. All are important. We have been camping for over 40 yrs. Started off with a tent, then a pop up. Now, Grand Design Reflection 337RLS. We love it. Just stayed for 5 weeks in Branson MO. God bless y'all. Hope to run into y'all sometimes.
You handled that like a pro! I replaced the hubs on our boat trailer. Once I got the grease all in the hubs and it started coming out I stopped and the next time I took the boat out and got home I hit the bearings again with the grease gun just to make sure that the bearings were 100% all good. They did each take a few pumps so you may want to do that at some point.
Wow, y'all get a lot of comments. I loved watching you working on your wheel. It took me back to 1987 when I was in auto shop packing my Mustang's bearings. Your videos give me more confidence that my husband and I can handle some of the maintenance when we retire and start our RV life. Thank you for sharing a balance of the joys and challenges you experience.
My advice to you from my dad who was a car and truck mecanic for 40 years, my dad would tight the bearing very tight and then turn back on it a quarter turn. It was always perfect.
Definitely should pack grease in from the larger side till it comes out on the opposing side. Also always tighten down that axel nut with a wrench using moderate force to make sure everything is seated. Then loosen back up and set it to hand tight or zero preload. As far as the brake wire, make sure you seal that connection with a piece of shrink tubing to keep water out. Otherwise it is going to corrode and stop working. But great job taking it on. Always enjoy the realistic, entertaining and inspiring content you share. Thanks for keeping it real and have fun.
As plenty of people have said, PB Blaster is nice. With that said. You are not supposed to have any lubricant on lug nuts. If you hadn't installed new studs with the drum, you would have cleaned everything off of the studs and lug nuts with brake cleaner before reinstalling them.
We stayed at Atlanta State park a few years ago on our way to coastal AL, what a great little park. Did not feel like Texas at all. We loved it!
We love watching your videos. We're full-timers too and working to build our UA-cam channel. I enjoy seeing the angles you shoot some of your videos from. That gives me some good ideas.
Ok….am I crazy…but in the clip of Alaska low out…..the tires were so close together…..was that because one was a spare?
But way to go guys….love your videos. Learn something every time. I am now just 3 short years away from retirement and full time rving….and have decided to do a 5th wheel! So excited! ❤️❤️
Next, replace the 14ga break wires inside your axle tubes with 10ga 36 stranded wire fastened to the backside of each axle. Why? The factory installed wire will wear from vibration and ground out. I just completely replaced my break wires from the pinbox all the way to the break hubs. The wire insulation in both axles had been compromised to where you could see or feel the copper wire poking through. Along with that, there is evidence of water entering the axle tube from wet roads which could be the reason why my trips to Valdez would leave me with intermittent breaks. (which is a completely different feeling than just wet break shoes that need to dry). I have pictures of these wires if you are interested. Safe Travels!!
Dave here and proper storage of clicker torque wrenches is my pet peeve. Always set clicker torque wrenches to their minimum setting when not in use. Stay safe!
My wife and I enjoy your videos; great prep when we get our trailer. Just a note: make sure the wire crimps are waterproof. The ones you used were not; watch for corrosion or replace. Otherwise, well done. Happy travels, Hanks!
UA-cam university is a good resource for most anything rv related…not being afraid is half the battle, you go guys and having some tools is a great thing also Good job get some jack stands
I didn't see the step where you seat the bearings by torqueing the axle nut to 50 ft/lbs to press the bearing assembly fully together, the back the axle nut off and then hand tighten the axle nut; last put the axle nut retainer clip on. Doing this will remove excess looseness of you bearing. All else looked good. We all hate rework, but this step will only require access to the axle nut. BTW, we love your channel. Considering the traveling nurse gig ourselves. I'm retired and RV'd full time for four years already. My wife has been a nurse for many years. Cheers!
Other folks have mentioned that impact guns come in a variety of sizes/power, from under 100 ft/lbs to over 1000 ft/lbs, so having the right gun for the job makes a big difference. But, like you said, mechanics sometimes over torque things by a lot. I’d recommend loosening all of them before needed and retightening them to the proper torque, so the right impact gun will work next time. It’s just much quicker in a roadside emergency situation.
Hey Hanks. Great job replacing your breaks and new bearings. I love watching your videos. Your videos are helping people save money showing them they can do it themselves. Great job!!!!!!
Remember there are right and left hand brake assemblies. You can actuate them by hand if you move the magnet the correct way. If you bolt them on the wrong side you will have zero breaking action. And never install your bearings dry always hand pack them with wheel bearing grease. The grease gun method is just for periodic maintenance when you give them several pumps of Grease after they already have grease in them.
When the drums come off, use Brake Cleaner and spray the brakes and the drum. Clean all the old grease off the spindle as well.
Proud of you two doing the brake repairs. Have a happy MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND and be safe out there!
Since we drove 900 miles to camp at a place in Texas that totally clouded over moments before totality I feel the need to pick on you and say by black & yellow impact laughs at your red impact. lol Just kidding of course. Love you guys videos and glad Dex made an appearance. (I carry a breaker bar as well)
Wait, wait...and RV video without an ad from a certain mattress company??? My head just exploded.
If you are having trouble getting the lug nuts to move, a short length of steel pipe slipped over the end of the breaker bar will give you a little bit more leverage to get the nuts moving.
Informative. A few things for your followers. Bearings need to be seated using your breaker bar and then back off. If not seated properly they will damage the bearings, hub and possibly the spindle. Find a video that shows more detail, find proper torque for back plate, remind everyone to re torque the wheels after 60 to 100 miles. Keep the videos coming, between your videos and some of the comments it will help people help themselves . Stay safe.
We have the same trailer, and also had a problem with the levelling system. I called Grand Design and they told me to reset the system. Disconnect the feed, you will find it in the front storage area, on the wall on the top of the big set of connectors. I found it by looking at the colors of the wires at the levelling screen, then following them back to the connection. Disconnect for 10-20 seconds to reset the system, then reconnect. Ours has worked fine ever since. Good Luck!
Hi guys!! We are out exploring Missouri, so we watched late. Remember we all start somewhere. You two may become great rv mechanics!! 😊😊
Well you guys did pretty good and I see others gave you hints. Yes the right tools for the job makes thing easier. My breaker bar and dead blow hammer never ran out of battery and my paper maps never lost cell service. A short basic auto repair course wouldn’t hurt to take.I might be able to do basic things to fix things but I can’t sew up a wound or patch somebody up. We all have out strengths and weakness.
Thanks Hanks! I just ordered the grease gun thru your Amazon store! 🫶🏼 U guys
Good on ya for not being afraid to tackle a job like that. I think everyone should have a basic understanding of how brakes work and that they do require regular maintenance on trailers. A few Notes that should be addressed before a trip, the Tapered Roller Bearings require a preload more than just hand tight. Asking for trouble and premature failure, what my technique is, is to tighten the nut with channel locks with one hand while spinning the drum with the other, this will make sure the bearings are seated and you can feel the preload start to slow the drum. Not crazy tight, just the weight of the channel locks and my arm plus a smidge. Usually I have to clock the castle nut to line up with a cotter key, but in your case it will just need to be lined up so the lock goes on. And there should be no play in the bearing with wheel on and rocking it up and down/side to side. Also it sounds like the shoes are at the right adjustment from the video but also a periodic thing that should be checked, should be an access plate in the back to get to the adjuster. Also after any brake job I like to verify operation to confirm the new magnet or hydro set is operating properly, don’t want to find that out rolling down the road. And good job on the other parts of the job keeping parts clean with the box and not filling everything with dirt. And a good battery powered half inch impact and socket is a must have for the road, make those jobs way quicker with a flat. Can still torque it installing.
Kyle you and Renee did a great job. It’s always good to see others making their own repairs. Keep up the great videos and good and safe travels.
Carl so glad to see you use a torque wrench to tension those lug nuts. People don't realize he ow important that is, i teach a precision maintenance class and that is one of the things we discuss. Great job on resetting that torque wrench to a low setting as well also very important to do!! Great job both of you!
Carl. You can get replacement fenders at Icon direct for the missing one on the drivers side
The Rv took a hell of a beating on the Alaska trip. So sorry love your channel.
Get. A 3 or 4 foot piece of 3/4 inch galvanized pipe nipple. Slide it OVER the breaker bar 1/3 or the bar and you have extended your breaker bar,,, INCREASING YOUR MECHANIC ADVANTAGE OF THE LEVER( breaker bar)..
Also buy a cheap ft pounds TORQUE WRENCH
Don't forget the final adjustment on the brakes found on the inside of the hub. Screw driver through the slot. Plenty of videos showing the best practices including the packing of bearings and the proper way to tighten the retainer nut or castle nut, whatever you have. Otherwise, great job. I'd read as much and watch as much as I can so I don't miss a thing. Best to do it right the first time. Learn from the mistakes of others, I always say.
All leveling in my 2006 Montana is all done manually so I carry a 4 ton floor jack with me and of course jackstands. The reason I’m saying this is the floor jack has a long handle that’s removable and I use that as a torque bar extension, really handy device and no need for more or extra tools! Great DIY video! Rollo
Thanks for the video. I am also not a professional mechanic but I have done plenty of brake jobs. I would also recommend using a rubber mallet instead of a hammer to help loosen the drum from the hub. In your case, you replaced the drum so no worries if it cracked.
We are in Atlanta,TX the clouds made for a disappointing eclipse.
A bearing packer pushes grease through one way. When it comes out the small side it is packed. As for over grease yes it can be done. We had our 5th wheel into the dealer one time for some warranty work. While it was in there I asked them to lube the spindles. If they are over greased and grease gets on the shoes it works opposite of what most people think. The brakes lock up as soon as you touch the peddle even with the controller backed way down. I had to cut the wires to that brake to get home without sliding that tire. Later I pulled that hub and some moron had pumped so much grease in it that it popped the seal out and everything inside was covered in grease. I did not take it back to the dealer. I don't want unskilled people like that working on my stuff.
Really glad to hear that you guys enjoyed beautiful north east Texas. I've lived hear in the area 52 years and its a great place. Someday the wife and I hope to see you guys out on the road since y'all seem to be a crazy fun couple. Stay safe!
Btw please take time to recheck that bearing preload after a short trip. Always spin it as you snug it up, after it's tight then loosen back up. The grease will take up valuable space needed for the bearings.
You were talking about your jacks airing out if you call Leopard they will walk you through what's wrong with them for free. you can look at the manual I found that ours just needed to be reset the correct way.
I'm so impressed with how well y'all work together.
Nice job for a rookie ,I've had been a tech for over 40yrs I would have done things a little differently but good job.
couple things guys, nice new tools, including that impact wrench, um which setting did you have it(impact wrench) on when trying to break those lug nuts loose? There should be 4 settings, 1 being kinda bad *ss and 3 being holy smokes twist the world in half......maybe next time try setting 3 lol it'll get 'em off no problem. The settings are just above the battery, its a little button. A breaker bar is a nice back up. ALWAYS use a torque wrench when putting lug nuts back on so you don't over torque the nuts. Do not travel with the bearing nut only finger tight, super CRITICAL!! you need to properly seat the bearings to a torque setting while rotating the brake drum back and forth then back off the nut a quarter turn then assemble the retainer!!
A breaker bar is an essential tool. I used mine every time I have a tire rotation with a oil change on my cars. The shops just crank down the lugs way too much. The only way to back them out is with a breaker bar and then torque 'em down with the torque wrench to the proper poundage.
You should use heat shrink butt connectors on the wires, the connectors you used you’re going to get moisture in the wire and they’ll fail
Friendly advise. When changing the brakes, make sure they are very loose and cause no friction as it will throw off your bearing seating. I usually sit the bearing nut quite tight, this ensures the bearing is well seated. I then back off and tighten slowly until I get a little hub friction. Lock into to place and then adjust brakes.
Thank you for sharing this week about brake replacement. Love the DIY spirit!
Congratulations on getting some maintenance done yourself. 🎉🎉🎉
Good on you for tackling this. I did the same for my front class c motorhome brakes. I have been doing my car brakes for years but doing such a large vehicle was scary at first and I was terrified to do the bearings. It’s such a sense of accomplishment when you finish though. Whoever last installed the wheels used lock tite on the bolts so I had to take them to the mechanic to have them removed. So annoying. Lots of UA-cam videos and research. I learned the hard way with my car to always check torque specs for every bolt you install and yeah what everyone said about the grease and bearings.
I really need these. when you played the example of what tinnitus sounds like... I couldn’t hear it at all.😢
You should also put grease on the axle surface that the seal rides on and coat the seal lips with grease. Use a piece of wood over the seal to hammer the seal in vs hitting the seal with the hammer.
Another great video. I've repacked lots of bearings in my life and I thought you guys did a great job! Nicely done Hanks!
If you can do the work on your RV yourself I say do it! You can fix it today instead of having to wait a week just to get you in line at an RV center. you both did good.
If those lug nuts have metal "sleeves" replace them with all metal, not sleeve! I learned this the hard way. This was at the advise of Discount tire. The problem is that they will slip and turn on you regardless of what impact or leverage tool to remove. Result, if you out on the road and this happens, your in big trouble. Replace if they are this type with sleeves.
Agree. I had a problem with one like that. Luckily I was at home and not on the road.
@@archaney Same here. I was at home. Took the lug nuts to Direct Tire. The tech there said they run into this all the time with factory lug nuts that get stripped.
You two work good together on camera.............good job...........from Waco tx here..