RV Microwave inverter test, Krieger 1100 watt, 3 - 12 volt batteries parallel, Boondocking prep.
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- Just testing voltage drop on inverter with 12 volt batts. The microwave probably wasn't the best test as it was only a 3 minute test.
I want to go 6 volt but heard the voltage drop will be greater..
I need to draw the battery's down to 75% SOC and do another test to see voltage drop.
Using the toaster oven or coffee maker would have been a better test as the micro is problematic. It was pushing the limits of my inverter.
My other big draw appliances are more stable as they are just heat elements..
This micro needs to start and I was over watts on inverter a few times.
Thanks for the video
I have a tcl 32 inch tv that draw 28 watts when its turned off. I unplug it when I don'
t use it. What a waste of power
Yes that is the exact system I have. So I have a blue seas fuse block running to the load connection on the controller and I have the power running in from the auxiliary batteries to that same fuse block. So, when viewing the remote monitor I can see the load amps change when I turn on or off a component like a fan or fridge. All the components are grounded to the fuse panel. I have a inverter powered directly to the auxiliary batt. As well. I do know that the stereo has an issue where it is grounding it self to the metal in the dash. I don’t know it is defective or the Neg ground on the auxiliary is acting like a loop and grounding it but I also ran a direct ground to the fuse block. Aux. battery is also linked to the start battery via a Shure power brand separator switch which allowed the charging of both banks via solar and or alternator when driving. So the loads will not shut down manually through the use of the Load on off on the monitor.
Are you saying I should reconnect the fuse block directly to the battery? Won’t this eliminate the use of the monitor to view what load amperage is drawing down ?
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Yes reconnect the fuse block to battery. Yes it will eliminate the ability to use the MT50 to turn on/off loads. You cant use those terminals if the loads you are trying to control are tied to ground.
All you can run off that load terminal is for example: A light that has a pos, and neg wire from the light to the controller. And the light is mounted to wood.. The light has no reference to ground.
If you want to keep what you have get a neg ground unit.. Epever discontinued the type model you have and the model I have..
This is the updated model and I suggest getting this then you can keep your set up as it is. Or do as we discussed and connect fuse block to battery directly.
www.amazon.com/Solar-Charge-Controller-Ground-Tracer3215BN/dp/B076TBB5HP/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522382820&sr=8-3&keywords=Tracer3215BN
Also watch this guys video. I helped him with the same issue. He couldn't turn his loads off because he did a terminal block like you...
ua-cam.com/video/G7zTtnJQkzo/v-deo.html
Thanks, I found the problem and now can use the manual on off on the controller to kill the load. I have a short in the cars stereo and its grounding to the dash. Also, i had a ground directly to the fuse block. So i guess it created a ground loop. I Disconnected the stereos ground fuse block and now the manual on off works. However the stereo amp draw will not be registering with the controller or be controlled with the on off. it is still running off the aux batt. Need to get a new stereo and reconnect the ground and all should be good.
Question about installing a HY-MPPT 30 controller. I have everything connected and its charging and my loads are getting power. However the load on off button will not kill the power to the loads. Given this is a positive ground controller and i have the battery bank grounded via the neg side to the chassie of the van am i too change the batt ground to the positive side?
I dont know the specs on your controller... Some controllers the MT50 meter does not work with them. Also there is a delay when you push the buttons for the load...
What loads do you have running off the controller?
Is this what you have?
www.acopower.com/product/charge-controllers/mppt-controllers/acopower-30a-mppt-solar-charge-controller-hy-mppt30a-mt-50-solar-charge
I reread your post.... No you cant run loads from that controller if the loads are tied to the ground. Run the loads off the battery directly...No do not change the ground... Again just dont run loads off the controller that are tied to ground or touching /tied to the frame of the van.
The microwave is loud because you're using a modified sine inverter, you're killing the microwave slowly, best to use a pure sine wave inverter.
Surprising an 1100 watt modified sine wave inverter can run that microwave, way to go power!!!
Sound sucked way to low.
sorry dude.. Im a home owner not a video editor. I did my best
@@Lawrosa1 obvious