I hope youre ignoring all the mean/ignorant comments here. Im happy to see riders doing what they want with their bikes, and i hope you get what youre seeking out of your klr!
I have the 9in. Carbon Delkavic, totally transforms the bike, so much better. I'll wait for the flash, with all the love on this bike surprised there isn't one yet. thanks
I think you did everything 100% correct, and it seemed to pull well for 300lbs. 80mph indicated was probably 75mph, which is damn good for 4th gear. I have been interested in these exact mods for a long time because with a 16t front sprocket, you can go at highway speeds with 400 less rpm. And with a 17t, 800 less rpm, which should make a significant difference at 75mph cruising speeds. And the bike seems to be designed for long hauls in terms of an upright riding position and comfort, excepting the high rpm vibes. Really, this is a first for UA-cam. I can't wait to see more! It would be fun to see you race another 300lb man on an unmodified 2022 KLR 😊 the good thing about the JD part is that you always have your stock settings available in the ECU. So, you can alway compare. I am subscribing to see how things work out.
The good part about a klr is they have about 40 horse per cylinder. The downside is there’s only one cylinder. Lol. All jokes aside the mighty KLR is a fantastic bike and with the right mods are really hard to beat for what they are. Bulletproof.
Your mileage is fairly low but these bikes came from the factory with close tolerances in the exhaust valve clearance. When it was time to change my shims, one had no clearance and im not the only one to experience this. Valve clearance should've been checked during the first service at 600 miles. If theyre slightly open, its not compressing properly and will cause troubles starting. Just a thought.
Most excellent! I previously did the $.22 mod on my 2008. It really woke the bike up; seemed to run so much more free and alive. I now have a '23 and would like to do what you did. Hopefully I will see similar results. I'm a little hesitant with electrical stuff. From what you said it seems to be fairly straight forward. Wish there was a how-to vid. Thanks for the review!
ua-cam.com/video/-uXIY5nnOjI/v-deo.html I did a short video showing the fuel controller side. It's very simple, pig tail just connects in-line to the factory harness and then a single lead to the battery.
Did you do the “clutch relay” mod also? I have yosh slip on/airbox/high flow air filter/and clutch relay. The clutch relay made a huge difference , especially in 1st gear (much less severe engine braking)
I put the same set up on mine, Leo Vince exhaust, JD Jetting, and a UNI air filter, on cold starts mine takes 2 bumps as well, never had any issues with it
I got a replacement unit and I still have an issue. After discussing with JD, we determined there is some level of delay in the fuel controller and fuel injector
Hey there. I'm thinking of buying the 2023 it's basically the same I assume. Where I live the bikes have to have abs which I wouldn't want off road but seems it's either you have abs or not on this model? Also I was interested in getting more hp out of such a big engine. I remember years ago the bmw gs650 was fuel injected and you could buy a chip and get 74hp out of the 650 gs. Do you think that's something that would be available in the future? Obviously the suspension should be valued if keeping long term... I'm not to worried about the brakes really
Hey I've just installed mine and am getting the same issue, takes a few cranks for it to get going. Did you end up fixing it? if so what setting do u have for each mode
I had the company replace the unit, unfortunately the issue continues. After speaking with the developer he believe it's a delay in initial start up as the fuel system reads the new mapping. When my bike is warm, I have no start issues. It's only when it's cold.
I had the fuel pump replaced a while back, it started great after the replacement. I've been playing with the fueling controls and have it about dialed in.
I've owned a 2013 and 2017 KLR650, and now a 2023. I find the '23 model a huge improvement over my older bikes, mainly softer ride and more torque. The only disappointment I've had is the extreme engine braking (jerky throttle response), particularly at higher RPMs. If anyone has a suggestion how to soften that response, I'm all ears.
Im surprised how much just taking the air box cover off does. Full throttle pulls a lot harder and all the way up to redline. Before bike fell on its face before red line. With door off the redline surprises me, feels too early cuz bike if still making power. But probably putting it back on for riding dusty roads.
I've been waiting aeons for a review like this 👍 is this a before+after test of the mods? The JD part has an electronic accelerator pump built into the programming. You should have 15% more torque+power after those mods. Did you notice it? Oh, this is cool, yes, it will be interesting, this is a first for UA-cam 😊 I'm not big on the ThermoBob 😐 by the time a fluctuating temperature ever made a difference to piston ring + cylinder wear, it's time for a 685 kit. I've researched that as much as possible, and IMHO, the ThermoBob is a lot of uneducated nonsense. They claim that wirhout it, the cylinder wears 2/1000ths extra in an oval shape, but that's normal wear. Cylinders always wear more in the direction of crank travel. And fluctuations in coolant temperature have no effect on the cylinder walls. It's silly. IMHO 😊
Question that no one has talked about. Is it easy for her to get on the back? Have you tried it or can she ride with the original hard bags? Thank you…
Don't forget to address the doohickey. Check out Eagle Mike for more information and products to fix that problem. The KLR650 is great for light adventure and just riding in general. I'm sure you will enjoy this bike.
If you are having high rpms at 55 in fifth gear you could try a 16 or 17 tooth front sprocket I usually don't get high roms till 65 to 70 in 5th gear but I just put a 16 tooth on the front and it's so much better as far as rpms go
Wasted money on a bike that was already good. KLR's were never designed for 2 up riding. They're for highway down to 2 track. Not a trail bike or a dirt bike. You'll pay for pumping up the power with longevity.
Kawasaki spent millions engineering the bike and all its components, what makes you think you can just jump in there and re-engineer everything? For what reason? You're the one fixing a brand new bike.
Well I am an engineer by trade... so there's that 🙃 I hear ya, I understand ya. The KLR is a same design carried mostly from its previous Gen. Mass production, mass sales, it's not a cutting edge engineering piece of art work. Its a blank canvas for people to do whatever they want to.
@@jim6635it's a fun bike! Thanks for watching. Let me know how you like it. The standard model is a bit tall, I considered getting the lower seat to help with footing. I didn't have any S models around me to try out.
If i want to go fast or ride women around I use the fjr,if I have to go to the store real quick I ride the klr.why anyone would think they're going fast on any klr regardless of mods is beyond me.ill outrun your souped up klr in second gear on the fjr.bottom line if you have the need for speed you want anything but a klr,it has its purposes but speed is not one of them."that's where your picking up your power"huhuhuhu.what power?
Brilliant you came up with the idea that the fjr is faster. All on your own. So I venture out to guess a Z 900 will beat a klr too. 👏. My fat klr pig will smoke you off the line for a few anyway. Cheers 🥂 And.... If I lost a 10 lbs I might get one more second. 😆
I hope youre ignoring all the mean/ignorant comments here. Im happy to see riders doing what they want with their bikes, and i hope you get what youre seeking out of your klr!
Thanks for the kind thoughts! Ride safe
If you're still using the OEM battery, that's probably the source of the hard starting. A lithium upgrade will fix the issue and save a few pounds.
until its cold
Didn’t think about painting the rear rack platform. Looks better.
It's much better. Nothing on the bike is that bright silver other than the rack.
Man that is a good looking klr. Glad to hear you ride it 2up. Im thinking of getting one and ill be riding the majority 2up.
Thank you. I have been waiting for a ride impression after the JD mod. I am going to go purchase one right now.
I have the 9in. Carbon Delkavic, totally transforms the bike, so much better. I'll wait for the flash, with all the love on this bike surprised there isn't one yet. thanks
I think you did everything 100% correct, and it seemed to pull well for 300lbs. 80mph indicated was probably 75mph, which is damn good for 4th gear. I have been interested in these exact mods for a long time because with a 16t front sprocket, you can go at highway speeds with 400 less rpm. And with a 17t, 800 less rpm, which should make a significant difference at 75mph cruising speeds. And the bike seems to be designed for long hauls in terms of an upright riding position and comfort, excepting the high rpm vibes. Really, this is a first for UA-cam. I can't wait to see more!
It would be fun to see you race another 300lb man on an unmodified 2022 KLR 😊 the good thing about the JD part is that you always have your stock settings available in the ECU. So, you can alway compare. I am subscribing to see how things work out.
Well the good thing about this bike is the support community behind it. Hope this helped any decisions! Happy adventuring!
The good part about a klr is they have about 40 horse per cylinder. The downside is there’s only one cylinder. Lol. All jokes aside the mighty KLR is a fantastic bike and with the right mods are really hard to beat for what they are. Bulletproof.
Your mileage is fairly low but these bikes came from the factory with close tolerances in the exhaust valve clearance. When it was time to change my shims, one had no clearance and im not the only one to experience this. Valve clearance should've been checked during the first service at 600 miles. If theyre slightly open, its not compressing properly and will cause troubles starting. Just a thought.
Most excellent!
I previously did the $.22 mod on my 2008. It really woke the bike up; seemed to run so much more free and alive.
I now have a '23 and would like to do what you did. Hopefully I will see similar results.
I'm a little hesitant with electrical stuff. From what you said it seems to be fairly straight forward.
Wish there was a how-to vid.
Thanks for the review!
ua-cam.com/video/-uXIY5nnOjI/v-deo.html
I did a short video showing the fuel controller side. It's very simple, pig tail just connects in-line to the factory harness and then a single lead to the battery.
@@teages078 just watched it.
Any word on when there will be a flash option? Anyone working on it?
Thanks!
@xnihilo I've spoke to several, moore mafia in SC hopes to be able to support it very soon.
I have the same set up I have the delkevic 9 inch and I agree love mine
Did you do the “clutch relay” mod also? I have yosh slip on/airbox/high flow air filter/and clutch relay. The clutch relay made a huge difference , especially in 1st gear (much less severe engine braking)
Usually you get a high flow filter when you upgrade exhaust. Is it not required on a klr ????
I'd say it's not a priority. Doing the snorkel removal is probably the netter modification.
Maybe buy an AEM air fuel meter for a temporary install , weld a 18x1.5 boss/nut onto your muffler pipe , might find power in the advance curve .
I put the same set up on mine, Leo Vince exhaust, JD Jetting, and a UNI air filter, on cold starts mine takes 2 bumps as well, never had any issues with it
I got a replacement unit and I still have an issue. After discussing with JD, we determined there is some level of delay in the fuel controller and fuel injector
My good old 1992 starts everytime with my carburetor and choke lever.
Did you add an independent air/fuel meter & oxygen sensor , to know what you were adding ? .
The lag/ramp might be for off road protection so you don't spin a wheel when your throttle grip changes in difficult situations, maneuvers.
Have you had yours in for the fuel pump recall? That may contribute to the hard starting issue.
Mine was replaced about a month ago. Since the video I've lowered the idle fueling and it's starts much better now.
Wrap the windshield MATTE BLACK looks dope. I did that to mine
Hey there. I'm thinking of buying the 2023 it's basically the same I assume. Where I live the bikes have to have abs which I wouldn't want off road but seems it's either you have abs or not on this model? Also I was interested in getting more hp out of such a big engine. I remember years ago the bmw gs650 was fuel injected and you could buy a chip and get 74hp out of the 650 gs. Do you think that's something that would be available in the future? Obviously the suspension should be valued if keeping long term... I'm not to worried about the brakes really
Hey I've just installed mine and am getting the same issue, takes a few cranks for it to get going. Did you end up fixing it? if so what setting do u have for each mode
I had the company replace the unit, unfortunately the issue continues. After speaking with the developer he believe it's a delay in initial start up as the fuel system reads the new mapping. When my bike is warm, I have no start issues. It's only when it's cold.
@@teages078I have the start up issue too. It’s no big deal though. Still starts, just takes 2 shots
That may be the fuel pump, there is a recall on some of them
I had the fuel pump replaced a while back, it started great after the replacement. I've been playing with the fueling controls and have it about dialed in.
Settings are you running? Habe you messed with the settings at all?
57 mikes per Gallon is insanely good. I average 44 and the best I've done is 48.
Recalled fuel pump causes starting issues.had mine replaced and it doesn't make a full revolution before it starts with correct rail pressure.
Yeah mine didn't have an issue until I changed It
Thank you for the video.
Did your KLR have cold-starting issues prior to installing the JD tuner?
What are your current settings?
Thanks in advance
I did not, I have been in contact with JD, they are sending me a new unit
Should i be taking in my 22 adventure an having the fuel pump replaced? I haven't had any issues yet
I've owned a 2013 and 2017 KLR650, and now a 2023. I find the '23 model a huge improvement over my older bikes, mainly softer ride and more torque. The only disappointment I've had is the extreme engine braking (jerky throttle response), particularly at higher RPMs. If anyone has a suggestion how to soften that response, I'm all ears.
I did the clutch switch mod, it significantly helped reduce the jerky on off throttle feeling.
Im surprised how much just taking the air box cover off does. Full throttle pulls a lot harder and all the way up to redline. Before bike fell on its face before red line. With door off the redline surprises me, feels too early cuz bike if still making power. But probably putting it back on for riding dusty roads.
What fender eliminator kit do you have on this?
Having the sa,e issues with starting the bike. Only has 2xx miles .
Your hearing is tall, did I miss you talking about what tooth setup you’re running?
I am running the factory Gearing to my knowledge. I bought the bike with 200 miles so I don't believe the previous owner changed anything.
Hi, did you find you had any popping or backfires on decel?
It's minimal if any at all. Typically popping is due to unburnt fuel, I think with the dyno testing this unit received helps allow for proper fueling.
Did you ever get it on the dyno?
I've been waiting aeons for a review like this 👍 is this a before+after test of the mods? The JD part has an electronic accelerator pump built into the programming. You should have 15% more torque+power after those mods. Did you notice it? Oh, this is cool, yes, it will be interesting, this is a first for UA-cam 😊
I'm not big on the ThermoBob 😐 by the time a fluctuating temperature ever made a difference to piston ring + cylinder wear, it's time for a 685 kit. I've researched that as much as possible, and IMHO, the ThermoBob is a lot of uneducated nonsense.
They claim that wirhout it, the cylinder wears 2/1000ths extra in an oval shape, but that's normal wear. Cylinders always wear more in the direction of crank travel. And fluctuations in coolant temperature have no effect on the cylinder walls. It's silly. IMHO 😊
Question that no one has talked about. Is it easy for her to get on the back? Have you tried it or can she ride with the original hard bags? Thank you…
Yeah its not too bad, i stand the bike up with my feet planted, she steps onto her passenger peg and then sits. she doesnt seem to have an issue
Don't forget to address the doohickey. Check out Eagle Mike for more information and products to fix that problem. The KLR650 is great for light adventure and just riding in general. I'm sure you will enjoy this bike.
I actually have a doohickey in my toolbox. I just havent dont it yet. Ill install it soon. I just did the adjustment per the manual
I feather the gas in 5th gear cruising at 55. Rpm seems too high. Is that normal, anyone try a different sprocket?
If you are having high rpms at 55 in fifth gear you could try a 16 or 17 tooth front sprocket I usually don't get high roms till 65 to 70 in 5th gear but I just put a 16 tooth on the front and it's so much better as far as rpms go
You could also have heavy tires on if you don't do much offroad riding I would recommend getting an 80/20 split tire
My 2000 klr modded and now dr seem like animals compared to this thing.
I suggest you edit out the license plate
Thanks! I just figured if you can see it while out and about on the road, that it wasn't a big deal to publish it
@@teages078 The internet can be a bad place my friend 😅
Never sell a super hawk, unless it’s to me
dude never say your bike is just as peppier with your girl on it 😂 jk 👍🏼🤠
Wasted money on a bike that was already good. KLR's were never designed for 2 up riding. They're for highway down to 2 track. Not a trail bike or a dirt bike. You'll pay for pumping up the power with longevity.
5 horsepower power won’t hurt the longevity and it makes passing people on the freeway much nicer.
It's not the bike buddy...it's the rider. 😮
Kawasaki spent millions engineering the bike and all its components, what makes you think you can just jump in there and re-engineer everything? For what reason? You're the one fixing a brand new bike.
Well I am an engineer by trade... so there's that 🙃 I hear ya, I understand ya. The KLR is a same design carried mostly from its previous Gen. Mass production, mass sales, it's not a cutting edge engineering piece of art work. Its a blank canvas for people to do whatever they want to.
Nobody is forced to do anything. I'd say it was his own money ansenergy to dowhat mods HE felt like doing. Kids!!!
And energy( correction )
I found this article good info as I'm buying a 2023 650 S this month. I liked your video
@@jim6635it's a fun bike! Thanks for watching. Let me know how you like it. The standard model is a bit tall, I considered getting the lower seat to help with footing. I didn't have any S models around me to try out.
If i want to go fast or ride women around I use the fjr,if I have to go to the store real quick I ride the klr.why anyone would think they're going fast on any klr regardless of mods is beyond me.ill outrun your souped up klr in second gear on the fjr.bottom line if you have the need for speed you want anything but a klr,it has its purposes but speed is not one of them."that's where your picking up your power"huhuhuhu.what power?
Brilliant you came up with the idea that the fjr is faster. All on your own. So I venture out to guess a Z 900 will beat a klr too. 👏. My fat klr pig will smoke you off the line for a few anyway. Cheers 🥂
And.... If I lost a 10 lbs I might get one more second. 😆
It looks stupid without the rear fender
Thanks for the comment! Happy adventuring!
@@teages078 I think it looks phenomenal. I'm doing the tusk kit soon.
@@teages078😆