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Chainset sizes explained - When to change your chainset | Compact vs Mid Compact vs Standard
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- Опубліковано 29 бер 2018
- Learn exactly what to consider before changing chainsets, chainrings and cassettes on your bike.
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You have done a great job on this matter. It sure has helped me out a lot. I think you are one of the best to listen to. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I have been riding a 3x7 for years, and when I began riding in my 6th gear of the cassette, I decided to get a new crankset. I went from a 42 top ring to a 48. To ride comfortably, I had to back off to the 4th gear. For me, the number of teeth in the casette didn't matter at the time. Now that I am damn near getting into the 6th gear again, I am really looking into this now. Thank you for this video, as it is very informative.
Glad it helped.
I’m using 50-34
12-25
10speed cassette
Love it
This guy knows what he's talking about..Direct to the point and very informative..He's like Flossy Carter/MBKHD of the cycling world.
Thanks for this informative video. It’s clear to me what to do if/when I decide to upgrade one of my older bike. So far, I am happy with the variety and range I currently have on all 3 bikes. Great presentation my friend! Keep up the good work.
Thanks man.
I love your forums I live in a little bit of a hilly area I’m currently running 53/39 crank I’m thinking about going to a 50/34 you really inspire me to keep working to get better On the bike u the Business!!
Welcome to the Channel Yancy, glad you found us. Enjoy the videos.
Excellent video. I ride a compact 34/50 and used to think I needed to upgrade to gain speed. Now I understand #1 and #2. I might upgrade to a 36/52 someday, but for now I am sticking with the 34/50.
Glad it was helpful!
I started using a 53/39 11-25 for 2 months, and it's made me much stronger. However there are a couple of climbs where the gradient hits 10 - 13% and i find 39 - 25 a bit heavy, so I've moved the front to 52/36. 36 - 23 gives the exact same ratio as 39 - 25, but it's nice now to have the 36 - 25 to spin out when i need a bit of a rest!
Great move. That's what I use on my orange Kish bike. Nice to have.
I absolutely love your Channel I have watched a lot of different UA-cam channels and yours always makes the perfect sense and very accurate. Thank you for making such great videos and keeping things explained very simple
Thanks J.R. Glad you found us. I wanted this channel to be different than the others and just keep things simple and down to earth. Appreciate your feedback.
Learned so much. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Great that you found the Veloharmony Channel.
I'm so glad I came across this video, cause I was considering on changing gearset. Thank you for making this video
Glad it was helpful!
Well said @ beginning, It doesn't matter just ride your bike. Especially for us amateurs. The best case scenario is you ride up hills, flats AND downhill!
Thanks Jonathan, glad to have you on the channel.
I've a 34/50 crankset. Recently I've experimented with 11s 11-40 MTB cassettes and it's a lifesaver for very steep (10-30% gradients) climbs that I encounter in my long adventure rides hauling all my stuff at the rear. Moreover I have a tendency to shift up to easier gears before stopping at a light; thus such gearing also allows quick acceleration at a junction light without having to stand up and pedal.
Downhills, usually I will just get aero on the drops. :)
Yes. I prefer the drops at very high speed for the aero position and the stability.
Hahaha we have the same experience with bike stuff. I used to ride also a 53/42 - 12/23 back then on the Island of Curacao (Dutch Antillies).
I used to be a bit skinny so that gearing was easy. Now i used 53/39 in the Netherland. Depend the place i sometimes train I use1/25 cassette or the 12/28.
I love 16 teeth cassette also. Good cadence for me. I thing now to consider the mid compact crank.
Very thoughtful video--anyone who stresses a torque wrench so much is credible to me! I have an old school 42/53, and a new 34/50. Other than two hills that are widow makers with the old school standard, and just difficult with the compact, the performance on each bike is almost identical. I just go opposite ways on my normal route to make those hills the downside with the standard, and climb them with the compact. I'm leaning towards a semi compact conversion on the newer bicycle, but didn't realize I was still at the lower rpm range of spinning- like lower 80's. The lower gear I was looking for, I found just my increasing my rpms towards the 100 area. Those monster hills are either at the beginning or end of my run, and I've found that at my higher rpms, having that 34 chain ring with the 34 cog can be a nice thing- even if it's the only time they are used. So for now, I'm good to go-but think the semi compact may be in my future, as I like the math--no repeated ratios! There's something beautiful about that!
Thanks for sharing Paul. I always try to stay 'on top' of my gears to save my knees.
I found that with 50/34 on my road bike, I was always shifting my front derailleur to get the right cadence on the flats. This was hard to avoid cross chaining. I'm now building another road bike and I tempted to try a mid-compact in 52/36. I have a gravel bike and I found that I don't train so much as I have all the gears to climb and I stay seated. Thanks for the videos!
Thanks for the info!
Have been researching for a fair bit but only makes it more confusing for me. This vid really clears things up and just what I needed!
Glad you found the channel. We keep it simple and clear here.
Velo did it again..I've been riding 34x50 for two years..Just upgraded my bike and its a 36x52, great information. No longer anxious that I made a bad decision.
The channel that i need for my cycling life
Glad you found us.
I live in hilly terrain with some short steep sections up to 20%, I also like to go fast on the downhills so I use Mid-compact 52-36 with an 11-32 cassette my ultegra 11 speed short cage 6800 RD works perfectly however I think this depends on your rear derailleur hanger, since you may need to max out the b screw to clear the 32 at the back.
Wesley, thanks for your input. Much appreciated.
Subscribed!! Excellent info and presentation
Very useful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This was so well done! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Good video - giving the facts in an understandable manner - Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff and sensible opinions. I live in what many consider to be the hilliest part of the UK called Devon down in the South West. The issue with large percentage hills is that they can take the 'fun' out of cycling. For example the last hill on my 60 mile ride on Tuesday topped out at 19%. We tend to ride in a different way lots of intensity, lots of sharp 30-50 mile rides. I have made a psuedo chainset of 52/34 with a Rotor chain catcher and works a treat. Best wishes. Pete.
Thanks for sharing pbt2005. Great idea with the chain catcher for your particular install. I don't like to labour up hills, appreciate your contribution.
Thanks. One thing to ask, is would a 53 or even a 54 make me faster or would this simply increase gain on the chain and perhaps increase or bring on ride fatigue sooner. A lot of riders ask this question in the quest for speed. I can ride 53 no problem, but my terrain rolls so a 52 works. What are your thoughts on top end speed vs. chain ring size ? Best. Pete.
Wow! Very informative and helpful. Thanks for your time.
Glad it was helpful!
Very clear explanation. Thanks!
You're welcome!
I'm running 48/32 11/34 gravel bike and I'm working alot harder than my group on flats running 52/36 and 53/39
Excellent video 👏🏻
Thanks for the visit
thanks for the info, it really help
You're welcome Daniel, that's the purpose of this channel. Glad you found us.
Great Video!
Thanks Jose. Appreciate the feedback.
Great video as always! Shimano produces an 11-32 rear cassette now. That's what I use with my compact crankset. I live in the Washington, DC area and I've ridden everything from flat to 12-13%. The community I live in has two grades to get to my neighborhood. From the east it's 5% and 11% from the south. The 11% is challenging (takes my heart rate to max), but the compact is a life saver....literally!
What kind of rear derailleur cage is required with you 32 rear cog?
Veloharmony Shimano GS. Lomger cage. 105 / Ultegra 32T. Latest Tiagra 34T. DA 30T. Sram's cheapest gpset Apex 32T back in 2010.
medium cage derailure required.
Next install shimano xt cassette 11-40 with a wolf tooth roadlink, and climb the 11to 13% hills around here in Sunbury Australia, with compact cranks and spin it up.
Veloharmony i have 11/32 cassette with a long cage. I've seen videos with 11/32 and short cage with the B screw turned all the way in.
Thanks Nick. I currently have 28tooth Dura Ace and will be looking to go smaller.
The concept behind replacing bolts after one use. Is because of something call torque to yield. Meaning as the bolts are torque to spec they actually stretch in order to keep the two surfaces together. So to reuse the bolts use would be stretching a bolt that has already been stretched. Compromising its integrity
Makes perfect sense. When I changed by chainrings from 39X53 to 36X52, I used the new bolts they shipped with the 36X52 and discarded the bolts I removed.
great vid, very helpful
Glad to hear! Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.
Great informative video 👍👍,Spin to Win😀
Glad you enjoyed it
Could you explain more on BCD?
Meeen! Greets from germany this Video is so Good!
Glad you like it! Danke
Oh no! I've just ordered a new bike with 36x52. I hope I can get up them hills.
Great videos! Its very flat here and I ride a 1x 50t front 11-28 cassette. SRAM Have you reviewed or plans to review these?
Great video. Are you a teacher by profession? I currently have a 50-34 front and 11-34 rear. I rarely use the small ring up front. I mostly ride flat rail trails. Thinking about going to 53-39 and 11-28 to tighten up my gearing and give me more choices for the correct rpm.
No I am not a teacher by profession, but I worked for many years as a consultant in engineering.
Very informative , thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Currently I am using 50/34t. Can I change my 34t to a 42t?
Hi sir nice video and more informative, I have a 50-34 chainring with 11-28t cassette, I'm planning to ride a double century and it's going to have a lot of climbing, can I put a 11-34t cassette? Thus will help me? Thanks more power
It's best to find out what gearing you need by riding in similar terrain, prior to the event to make sure.
I like, retro peloton nice
Thanks Arturo.
I’m currently using std 39/53 with 11/28.and thinking of 36/52 with 11/30t cassette for hilly terrain ride. Is that ok?
I’m running 52/36 up front and 11-28 in the back. Was great on flats but killed me in the hills. Just switched to 11-32 in the back. Much better, still have top end gears for the flats but now have a hill climbing gear.
I am riding 50/34 crankset with 11-34 cassette, I am looking to switch to 52/36 crankset with either 11-32 or 11-30 cassette not sure which one. With the 34 crank and 34 cassette in the rear I have yet to use on any hills, I am either on the 27 or 30.
I just switched from 52/36 11-28 to 11-32. Waaaay better for me. I’m a 225lb rider and was dying in the hills. Much better now. Highly recommend 11-32.
53-39 doesn't come stock from most brands anymore. And Trek only sells compact. Even on the expensive race Madone models. Mid compact is common on some other brands such as specialized.
Edward as the buyer, you can request the chainring combination you choose. It's just that most people either don't know or don't want to pay the difference they may be charged if the vendor has to source the new components. It is good that they have compact, especially for new riders, who need to spin for their own good, but since most people are buying online, then you have to take what they're selling it with and then if you choose to, you can source a different chainset. They have to put something on there, so they have chosen what you mentioned, but if you're getting the bike from a local vendor (bikeshop) , they can swap those out easily but sometimes you have to pay more if the bike is being sold as is. If you're building up a frame, then you have more flexibility.
thanks for the info. Nice to know. I enjoy your channel, good advice.
You're welcome Edward. Glad you found the channel.
How often should you change the chainrings and cogs? I know the wear out. Is it worth getting carbon fiber rings vs aluminum?
Chainrings and cogs can last the life of your bicycle, if you keep them clean and make sure you replace your chain before excessive wear. It's the chain and a dirty drivetrain that will wear your cogs/chainrings. There are just certain things that are best left to metal..chainrings being one of them.
I'm new to the road bikes world, recently adquired a Scott speedster second hand ,I think is a 2009 or later bike. For some reason it has a 52/42/30 crank set and a 12-25 cassette. Mostly the terrain I'm about to ride is most 60%flat 40% hill
Obviously a 30 on front would do any of those hills but I'm the kind of rider that doesn't use smaller cogs on front I'm used to a 36,
Then some of the tooth on the 52 and the 42 are very weared down I'm fear that that will give me chain dropping issues...whats your advice
Take your bike to a competent bike shop for a complete overhaul, to ensure it is in proper riding condition and all the bearings are fully serviced.
Hello good video I have a transmission 11-28 50-34 and I want to change to 11-28 53-39 which chain is the ideal 116 or 126 I hope you can help me thanks
Not that big of a change. 116 should be just fine. Just make sure you adjust the chain length properly during the install.
Love your videos, my question is can I pair 52/39?
Should work. We used use a 42/52, so I don't see that being a problem. I currently use a 36/52. It's when the gaps are too large, then you get shifting problems.
Have you tried the 52/39? If so which brand. My crank is 130bcd
Keep the 39 50 with a 40 or more cassette with a longer drellieur and a wolf tooth road link
I was told that due to chain wear impacting on the cassette / chainring teeth, chains and cogs should be switched out at the same time as the chain itself, to prevent uneven wear or chain slip... Is that so? How to know if my chain will be long enough if I increase the size of my largest chainring?
Thanks for confirmation, I do have a park tool for checking the chain wear.
How about chain length? How to know if a chain is long enough to accept a larger chainring without becoming too tight? Thanks in advance for all you help as always.
The chain length is determined during Install and is based on the small chainring and the largest ratio cog (smallest physical cog, say like the 12 or the 11 etc.) If you increase your inner chain ring to a larger one, you need to install a new chain and set the correct length during the install. Here is a video from the maintenance playlist that shows how to install a chain on the road bike and set the correct length: ua-cam.com/video/boyfzAYQWjg/v-deo.html
What are your thoughts on oval chainrings (Q rotor)?
I prefer the circular chainrings. Some riders like Oval chainrings. I think it comes down to trying it and seeing if you like it. The issue is when spending money, you have to ask yourself what problem you're trying to solve with things that you try. If my first bike had come with Qrings, I would probably have just ridden them. I am not a fan of just trying things because someone's selling them, unless they address an issue I have.
Thanks for the info, hello sir may I ask, should I change 52/36 170mm? Or should I stay 50/34 but I will change 170mm crankarm?I currently use 50/34 172.5, cos I have hard time to spin at 50/34 172.5? Hoping to your kind response, by the way I'm from Philippines. Thanks
Carmelo, since you're not a Patron, you can use our consult service here: www.veloharmony.com/product/cycling-consultation/
What is your view,s on a single chain ring up front
Single Chain can work but it depends on the particular terrain you live in. A lot of cyclocross setups use single chain. You need to get the correct size chainring that you can handle.
When I changed chain rings from 50-34 to 52-36 and rear gearing from 11-28 to 11-25, the shop recommended replacing my chain. Thoughts?
The shop was correct. The chain is sized based on the inner chainring and the largest ratio cog in the back. Since you still had an 11, the change from 34 to 36 required a longer chain.
The current Shimano Dura Ace has 11-25, 11-28, 11-30 cassettes.
Thanks Shige. I will be getting lower ratios on my next cassette.
I thought you were a Campy guy for your personal bikes? Did you change to Shimano?
If I do change either the size of the chain rings or the cassette, so I need to change the chain length too??
You need to only change the chain if you change the size of the chain rings, not the cassette. If you go down in the size of chainring you need to shorten the chain and vice versa. You check the length of the chain using the inner chain ring and the largest ratio (smallest physical cog) in the back...usually the 12 or 11 depending on your range.
I have a 46 cassette with 36 46 cranks all the gears you'll ever need
awesome first stumble on your video bought a new mtb here goes my story . new mtb 11 speed shimano deore 11/46 crank 28 teeth .like your focus point i want climb hill i regular ride . i ride dirt trails forrr miles not 7 miles twice a year . elevation of 200 ft to 7 feet from hill to hill not pro rider at 55 but my climbing stinks my speed feels held back i'm coming from a 9/42 teeth 9 speed 32 teeth crank . i'm wanting to yank the new crank put in 34 teeth vs 28 teeth i want climb better new bike tire size is the same i like mtb distance riding its my thing i wanted 11 speed for speed and gain a better edge of climbing hills i'm climbing hills in 9 th gear all my riding is 9 th gear i'm clicking i love my mtb 6,000 miles year 13.5 to 16 mph regular cruising for me is 15 max is 18.4 i ride long distance your video made so much sense to me i'm noob at building bike i learn from visuals and from others like your self thank you for posting believe i now have a better idea on crank size size and style
Glad I could help. Enjoy your bike. Glad you found the channel.