Thanks, from Bernie in West Deptford NJ USA. I just bought this tank and used it for about two weeks and tonight the track came undone like yours. The manual wasn't much help, but your video saved the day. Thanks again.
@@NHseacoast Mine are metal - I managed to get it fix it worked for a few months now some of the pins are bent. I ordered new metal tracks but I can't get those on. Haven't used the tank in about 9 to 10 months. It's just setting around now, gathering dust.
I had to buy replacement tracks for my Abrams due to the original tracks breaking. Common point of failure, was the center hinge that hooks over the pins would snap. If I’d continue to operate with one in this state, the pin would eventually snap in half. I normally drive it on mixed terrain: road, concrete, gravel, dirt and grass. But never on wet surfaces. I just replaced the plastic road wheels with the metal road wheels that come equipped with bearings. Hopefully the issue will be resolved as I’ve noticed that the plastic road wheels would have too much play on the axles. Since I’ve tested the install, I’ve noticed the Abrams rides smoother and climbs over obstacles more effectively, due to the added weight on the drive train. The only issue I have with this upgrade so far, is the bearing caps/ or wheel hub caps won’t fit correctly on the road wheels upon pressing them in. I believe it is due to the inconsistent quality of the caps. Only 11/14 caps could be pressed. Please let me know if this upgrade will increase the wear rate on the plastic gear boxes. Otherwise I’ll reply to this comment with an update as I will perform stress tests over this weekend to find out.
Hi and thank you for the visit. The quality of the plastic wheel is poor and the metal ones are not much better, I have found anyway. As for the wheel caps sometimes its the screw head stopping them pushing on, try drilling the inside of the cap, but be careful not to go to deep. The metal upgrades will put a lot of stress on the stock gear boxes, I would recommend you upgrade to all metal gear box. Don't get the gear box with they aluminium gearing they will ware out very quickly. Hope this helps.
Hello, there is far too much tension on the chains. The problem is not you or the tank but the tracks. I once had exactly the same chains as you. Due to their design, they are far too wobbly with normal chain tension and they run off. If you tension it so that the chain doesn't fall down, there is far too much tension. You can also see this on your first and last rollers, which are pulled upwards. The chain is pretty but unfortunately it has too many individual links and individual pads. What helps is a chain that doesn't consist of so many individual pads.
I love your video! I need some help with the road wheels. I had one of the road wheels get a bit wobbly. Found out it was the suspension arm "screw-hole" was widened out abit where the road wheel screws in. I got a new set of suspension arms. But when I took the old suspension arm off, a spring and little washer came flying out. I've searched for someone else that maybe has tried to put it all back together, but looks like you are the one with the most experience. Can you help me out? This is of course, the same HengLong M1A2 you are working on.
Hi Alan, Firstly, thankyou for watching my video. Now the wheels on the tank do wobble because there not very well made. To put your wheel back together is tricky but not super hard. The small leg on the spring sits in one of the two holes on the tank body, usually the top one, these are the adjustment for hard and soft suspension. the long side of the the spring goes inside the swing arm. The little washer goes between the body and the swing arm where screw goes in. with the spring in place the long section should be pointing up about one o'clock, place the arm over the spring(don't forget your washer) then use the arm as leverage to pull the spring around in a clock wise direction, then slot the stop peg back in the grove and screw everything back up. Hope this help, let me know if you need anymore help.
@@ourr.c4065 Oh yeah!!! That is the info I was looking for. The reason I replaced the metal suspension arm is because the screw that secures the road wheel would not tighten. Like perhaps last time I ran the tank the screw was loose and then proceeded to tear up the threads. I got a new set of metal suspension arms, and sure the road wheel screwed in securely on the new arm, so I confirmed the case of the existing threads being wasted due to improper maintenance on my behalf. But I really thank you. I don't have time today to try again to put it back together, but are you on FB by any chance? Your answer was so professional, and that is the kind of people I like to deal with.
@@alantrail7662 Hi Alan, Glad the information was what you needed. Sorry, no am not on Facebook, but if you get stuck post on here and I will make a video of how to do it. Good luck.
@@ourr.c4065 I got it articulating properly! What had happened is I mustve over-torqued the fastener that holds the suspension arm. I backed it off one iota and now it returns like it should. But hey, would love to see a video just because it is a critical part of the tank.
Hey I've been having a problem with mine it's a 2.4 Ghz Hobby Engine M1A2 Abrams I've it for a while but haven't used it for as long as a time. The only problem I've encountered is when I move the forward left stick the left track moves forward. Obviously, when i just bring the stick forward then back the tank puts the right track in full blown reverse and won't stop until I turn it off. Could it be the control remote? The motor? I'm lost tbh
Hi, You don't have to adjust the rear sprocket, you only adjust your track. You do this by removing the front road wheel, behind that is a adjustment arm release the centre screw then move the arm to the required position there is alignment mark on the arm and the tank body. Move the arm towards the front of the tank to tighten the track or towards the back to loosen it. I find to get the correct adjustment you adjust the track so the front road wheel just needs a little pull to line up with the screw hole. Don't forget to retighten the adjustment arm before doing this. Any problems drop us a line.
Hi, they are durable and the pads do come off but not Easley. I will say if your using stock motors and gear boxes theses tracks will put a lot of load on them and may strip your gears.
Hi Metro, That is a very good question. What I have found, there are pros and cons with both types. The rubber type are better on a slippery surface but cause a lot of drag on grass and concrete surface. The all metal ones in my opinion are not so good on smooth surfaces due to having no grip but great on the other type, hope this helps and thanks' for the visit.
@@rickybrinkerhoff5417 Hi, there really is know assembly. You can simply slacken the front track adjuster by removing the front road wheel. Then back off the screw, once the track is on re-adjust till there is a little slack in the tracks and tighten the screw. Hope this helps.
Thanks, from Bernie in West Deptford NJ USA. I just bought this tank and used it for about two weeks and tonight the track came undone like yours. The manual wasn't much help, but your video saved the day. Thanks again.
Hi Bernard you are very welcome, I'm glad it helped you out.
Ye. The manual stinks all in. Chinese! Wish they’d try and make an all English version. Manual!
Are the tracks on your tank metal or plastic?
@@NHseacoast Mine are metal - I managed to get it fix it worked for a few months now some of the pins are bent. I ordered new metal tracks but I can't get those on. Haven't used the tank in about 9 to 10 months. It's just setting around now, gathering dust.
I had to buy replacement tracks for my Abrams due to the original tracks breaking.
Common point of failure, was the center hinge that hooks over the pins would snap. If I’d continue to operate with one in this state, the pin would eventually snap in half.
I normally drive it on mixed terrain: road, concrete, gravel, dirt and grass. But never on wet surfaces.
I just replaced the plastic road wheels with the metal road wheels that come equipped with bearings. Hopefully the issue will be resolved as I’ve noticed that the plastic road wheels would have too much play on the axles. Since I’ve tested the install, I’ve noticed the Abrams rides smoother and climbs over obstacles more effectively, due to the added weight on the drive train.
The only issue I have with this upgrade so far, is the bearing caps/ or wheel hub caps won’t fit correctly on the road wheels upon pressing them in. I believe it is due to the inconsistent quality of the caps. Only 11/14 caps could be pressed.
Please let me know if this upgrade will increase the wear rate on the plastic gear boxes. Otherwise I’ll reply to this comment with an update as I will perform stress tests over this weekend to find out.
Hi and thank you for the visit.
The quality of the plastic wheel is poor and the metal ones are not much better, I have found anyway. As for the wheel caps sometimes its the screw head stopping them pushing on, try drilling the inside of the cap, but be careful not to go to deep.
The metal upgrades will put a lot of stress on the stock gear boxes, I would recommend you upgrade to all metal gear box. Don't get the gear box with they aluminium gearing they will ware out very quickly. Hope this helps.
Hello, there is far too much tension on the chains. The problem is not you or the tank but the tracks. I once had exactly the same chains as you. Due to their design, they are far too wobbly with normal chain tension and they run off. If you tension it so that the chain doesn't fall down, there is far too much tension. You can also see this on your first and last rollers, which are pulled upwards. The chain is pretty but unfortunately it has too many individual links and individual pads. What helps is a chain that doesn't consist of so many individual pads.
Great video bud, have a awesome Sunday
Thanks! You too!
well now I know, how to adjust a tank track, very informative
Cheers John
Thanks for sharing 👌😻
Thanks for watching!
There is a lot that goes in to them tanks, after seeing the inside. Why did you fit the metal frame?
Hi Newtoo drones, yes there is quite a bit in them. I fitted the metal frame to reinforce the plastic hull due to the metal upgrades.
Great work keep it up👍
Thanks maxee
I love your video! I need some help with the road wheels. I had one of the road wheels get a bit wobbly. Found out it was the suspension arm "screw-hole" was widened out abit where the road wheel screws in. I got a new set of suspension arms. But when I took the old suspension arm off, a spring and little washer came flying out. I've searched for someone else that maybe has tried to put it all back together, but looks like you are the one with the most experience. Can you help me out? This is of course, the same HengLong M1A2 you are working on.
Hi Alan, Firstly, thankyou for watching my video.
Now the wheels on the tank do wobble because there not very well made. To put your wheel back together is tricky but not super hard. The small leg on the spring sits in one of the two holes on the tank body, usually the top one, these are the adjustment for hard and soft suspension. the long side of the the spring goes inside the swing arm.
The little washer goes between the body and the swing arm where screw goes in. with the spring in place the long section should be pointing up about one o'clock, place the arm over the spring(don't forget your washer) then use the arm as leverage to pull the spring around in a clock wise direction, then slot the stop peg back in the grove and screw everything back up. Hope this help, let me know if you need anymore help.
@@ourr.c4065 Oh yeah!!! That is the info I was looking for. The reason I replaced the metal suspension arm is because the screw that secures the road wheel would not tighten. Like perhaps last time I ran the tank the screw was loose and then proceeded to tear up the threads. I got a new set of metal suspension arms, and sure the road wheel screwed in securely on the new arm, so I confirmed the case of the existing threads being wasted due to improper maintenance on my behalf.
But I really thank you. I don't have time today to try again to put it back together, but are you on FB by any chance? Your answer was so professional, and that is the kind of people I like to deal with.
@@alantrail7662 Hi Alan, Glad the information was what you needed. Sorry, no am not on Facebook, but if you get stuck post on here and I will make a video of how to do it.
Good luck.
@@ourr.c4065 I got it articulating properly! What had happened is I mustve over-torqued the fastener that holds the suspension arm. I backed it off one iota and now it returns like it should.
But hey, would love to see a video just because it is a critical part of the tank.
@@alantrail7662 Hi Alan, glad you got it resolved. I will make a video in due course.
Hey I've been having a problem with mine it's a 2.4 Ghz Hobby Engine M1A2 Abrams I've it for a while but haven't used it for as long as a time. The only problem I've encountered is when I move the forward left stick the left track moves forward. Obviously, when i just bring the stick forward then back the tank puts the right track in full blown reverse and won't stop until I turn it off. Could it be the control remote? The motor? I'm lost tbh
Hi, Have you taken the wires off the motors at anytime?
hi i just my new heng long tank can show me how to ajust the rear srocket
Hi, You don't have to adjust the rear sprocket, you only adjust your track. You do this by removing the front road wheel, behind that is a adjustment arm release the centre screw then move the arm to the required position there is alignment mark on the arm and the tank body. Move the arm towards the front of the tank to tighten the track or towards the back to loosen it. I find to get the correct adjustment you adjust the track so the front road wheel just needs a little pull to line up with the screw hole. Don't forget to retighten the adjustment arm before doing this. Any problems drop us a line.
Hi are the rubber padded tracks durable, as in do they come off very easily?
Hi, they are durable and the pads do come off but not Easley. I will say if your using stock motors and gear boxes theses tracks will put a lot of load on them and may strip your gears.
are the rubber metal tracks better than the metal one?
Hi Metro, That is a very good question. What I have found, there are pros and cons with both types. The rubber type are better on a slippery surface but cause a lot of drag on grass and concrete surface. The all metal ones in my opinion are not so good on smooth surfaces due to having no grip but great on the other type, hope this helps and thanks' for the visit.
Those metal tracks with the rubber pads look much better than the plain metal ones IMO! THANKS FOR SHARING THE LOVE MY BROTHER 🙏
Thanks for sharing this information 🙏😇🙏
Your very welcome.
The track pins in mine keep walking whenever I use it. It's almost as if each one should be staked.
Sorry, do you mean the pins keep coming out?
@@ourr.c4065 Yes that is known as "pin walking"
My taigen Sherman did this.
Fix: drop or less ( a touch ) of blue locktite on each pin solved this issue. Time consuming, yes, but did the job
Thanks Mark, for the top tip.@@Mark-g4z2s
Looking for M1A2 metal track assembly instructions.
@@rickybrinkerhoff5417 Hi, there really is know assembly. You can simply slacken the front track adjuster by removing the front road wheel. Then back off the screw, once the track is on re-adjust till there is a little slack in the tracks and tighten the screw.
Hope this helps.