TIG Welding Gas Flow Problems and How to FIX Them
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- TIG Welding Gas Flow Problems and How to FIX Them - See a simple fix for a common gas flow problem with your TIG torch.
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10-pk Collet 10N24 (3/32") for TIG Welding Torch 17, 18 and 26 Series
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An angel made you do this video 😂
You saved me brain from frustration.
Man, thanks for your youtube input. It saved a lot of aggravation, and probably the existence of my whole piping project. Keep up the good work!!
I appreciate that And rey! Thank you for watching and the comment!
I have the same problem as a new tig welder, its been very frustrating. I can't even call it welding, what its doing, it just burns up the aluminum. Can't wait to go home and try it! Thank you so much!!!😁
Sorry to hear that, hopefully this will help you out with your issue and you can get to welding.
Thank you so much, I had the exact same problem and couldn't figure out what it was, it was very frustrating sometimes. This was really helpful for another rookie.
You're welcome and thanks for watching Shamal!
Had the same problem yesterday, checked reg,flow meter for leaks , changed a couple of things , it did improve, then found where the argon goes onto the miller it was leaking , new touch, , got loads of new collets and didn’t change , will change tomorrow
Wedge collects are the way to mitigate this issue. Very durable.
I agree Mike
Great info for us newbies. Another tool in the toolbox to help troubleshoot. Much appreciated👍
You bet!
While I don't have the exact same problem, I think you've just pointed me in the right direction regarding gas flow. Went to weld some aluminium with a 3/32 and it cooked it. Switched back to a 1/16 and it was fine. I think my gas lens collet body is munted somehow. So, thanks!
Glad the video helped you out Jamie! I hope you can get it resolved and get to use your 3/32. 👍
This is a very good video about tig torches. I have already stumbled across this same problem on a friends torch that was welding really bad, and I fixed it after 2 other guys took a look at it and couldn't figure it out. Then more recently I think I'm having some problems, but not real bad ones. My collets are not twisted or bulged that much, but they are twisted and bulged so I think you just helped me pinpoint my problem. Thanks, oh yeah and you pointed out that this is from tightening your tungsten while its hot, and I do that all the time. I think I just learned something valuable.
Glad it helped you out. I think you'll find this fix will make a big difference. I have a bad habit of tightening the tungsten while the torch is hot and it's hard to break. I switched to a wedge collet on this torch since making this video and I haven't had a problem since. That wedge collet is still in that torch and it's been a couple years now. I'm now a huge fan of the wedge collet. Merry Christmas and thanks for stopping by!
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 oh yeah, I'm looking into stubby gas lens stuff and wedge collets.
I don't know what type of torch you have but I have a video showing the stubby set up I use. I show what I am using and there are links in the video description to all the parts I have had good luck with. I've been real happy with these and they are quite affordable.
Beginner TIG Welding Tips - Stubby TIG Torch Setup ua-cam.com/video/ZNQAjumOT9Y/v-deo.html
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 I have ck 17, and I will check it out
The parts I listed will fit a CK17 torch. 👍
You can't ignore the flowmeter. You just need to understand what it tells you. If you improved gas flow in the business end of your torch and got a better result under the same conditions, with the flowmeter indicating the exact same flow, that can only mean one thing: there is a massive leak somewhere between the flowmeter and the nozzle. There is no way around this algebraic constraint:
nozzle flow + leak = indicated flow
Obviously, improving the aerodynamics of the nozzle can only increase the flow through it, under the same flowmeter setting, if there is a leak somewhere. There shouldn't be any. When I have suspicions, I simply dip the tank and everything attached to it in a tub and watch for bubbles. You can do a soap test, but it is messy and has a high false negative rate.
That said, I did notice that I get oxide contamination of the sort you described when my tank is about to run out of gas, even as the flowmeter indicates the correct fllow. I am thoroughly mystified by this, but this effect certainly means that the last gas to come out of the bottle is not argon (which also means the flowmeter indication may be wrong -- if it is a ball meter, it is measures density flow). I have no idea how thaat is possible, but it is a fact that I can't weld when either of my two tanks gets low on gas. Also, I suspect that one of the tanks does it under a higher pressure than the other, but I will need several more refills to confirm that.
My gas supplier says he empties the tanks before filling them. If they are rusted on the inside, a quick de-gassing at the filling station will not remove all of gases absorbed in rust, the most important of which is probably water. Rust is hydrated oxide. That might also explain the difference between the tanks, if indeed they differ in the amount of rust inside. I am still mystified about this effect being pressure-dependent. In theory, the amount of gas absorbed should only depend on the partial pressure of that gas and not the other gases, but maybe there is competition between argon and water that results in more water released when argon pressure drops. I don't know. I decided that it will be cheaper for me to pause and swap out the tank when the pressure drops below about 3 Bar than spend any of my time grinding out contaminated welds.
Interesting information, thanks for sharing.
I have to correct myself: there is an explanation of gas coverage improvement upon cleaning up the flow around the collet that does not involve upstream leaks. A restriction or asymmetry of the flow inside the torch can create a high-energy vortex that will survive long after it exits the nozzle (sort of like this: scx2.b-cdn.net/gfx/news/hires/2018/1-researchexam.jpg).
The standard collet body is barely usable as it is, due to high vorticity, so adding another vortex to the mix can completely destabilize the flow outside the nozzle. The fllowmeter won't tell the difference between the normal and the perturbed flow, except perhaps in the case of extreme instability, when the ball might perceptibly bounce. Such a great instability will also be audible.
@@GeneSelkov I was just about to say that. A collet might not completely restrict flow, but it could cause enough issues that some area of the cup doesn't get enough gas. It could easily block one of the holes that distributes the gas to the cup
Your not going to believe this, thanks to your video, I saw how to assemble my tig gun. Thanks to poor directions that came with the welder (though I love the welder). I put the collet upside down in the collet body. 🙄 It went together wonderfully, so I thought I did it right. And of course, no gas came out and the welds, (and I use the term loosely) look like crap. Now I can weld 😁 and practice will make me better. Again, thank you so much!!!
Excellent! Happy welding 😀
Thank you very much for shearing your experience with all the world!!! Best regards!!!!
So nice of you
Make sure ur collet and collet body are the same brand because that will make a difference too....I promise u
I'm sure it will. Thanks for the tip Keith!
You said flow gauge is showing correct flow, if so then correct amount of gas is passing through, if gas is not flowing out the end of the torch nozzle you have a leak either in the line or a missing / damaged O ring around the threaded section that tightens on to the collet. The simple way to check for any leak remove the tungsten block off the end of the nozzle with your finger if flow gauge still shows gas flow then you have a leak.
Thanks for making this video I’m having the same problem
Glad I could help
hello bosss,thanks to your video,its real,coz that was the same problem i encounter,but now thanks to you..besafe
Glad it helped and thanks for watching! 👍
Great video helped me out here at the shop
Great to hear!
The diameter can't be the reason. The inner diameter of a collet body is about 6.4 mm, so it doesn't matter whether the collet diameter is 5.2 or 5.3 mm. There must be something else wrong with the cheap collet. Maybe the CK collet body has a general compatibility issue with non-CK-collets?
BTW - my collets also have a diameter of 5.3 mm - but I am using not a CK collet body. My CK torch came without any consumables therefore I bought a set of consumables from a welding shop. They work without any problems.
I think I had a bad tank. I was burning tungsten left and right, and when welding aluminum there was bluish black soot all over, and when welding stainless it look like it was stick welded or something (before you brush the flux off of course) with some welds looking completely grey. I don't know what it is, but it's either not argon, or it's a very low purity of argon.
I have had problems with what you have with shitty welds from the get go with a miller diversity 180'
I will try this trick tonight as i am welding a cart that will be holding 1000 pound dies and am concerned that poor weld will not hold that kind of weight.
thanks for sharing
I hope it solves your problem!
Cool explanations. Thanks for sharing !!
Thanks for watching Roger!
Hey, I had a similar situation, with the same supplier of my consumables, but didn't find it till today when I went to figure out why my arc wouldn't stay lit yesterday. Being a hobbyist, and fixed-income, I am ok with doing what works even if it takes a little more effort. My issue of getting shielding gas to the arc, had to do with the collett body, not having any holes cross drilled through it, to let the gas move from the torch body to the electrode region. The four holes normal on all TIG collet bodies I've seen in my short experience, were completely omitted from the fabrication of the component. I'll take care of that oversight on my drill press tomorrow.
That's interesting Mark, sounds like you've got it figured out though. I hope it works out for you after you drill some holes.
QC was "asleep at the wheel" the day that was made...
i will check my consumables...
I had a similar problem, but,there was nothing wrong with,the collet or torch body.
After a lot of aggrvation and frustration I changed tanks. What I found was that some how the gas was contaminated.
The problem went away as soon as I hooked up the new tank and purged the set up.
I've heard about that happening but I haven't experienced it yet. Glad you figured it out Bobby!
Got the same problem
I would throw it all in the trash. If your buying consumables anyway, get a Furick gas lens and wedge collet. Much better system and more smooth gas flow.
Since making this video I've switched to a gas lens and wedge collet set up. I use a #6 or #7 standard gas cup, gas lens and collet I got off Amazon for dirt cheap and they have been working great for a couple of years now.
My collet looks exactly the same lol, completely twisted up
👍🏻
How you can think, that few hundreds of mm can be the problem of ,,bad argon coverage"?!
Wow thank you sir. this very issue was driving me insane. God bless.
You're welcome, thanks for stopping by.
Don’t think that the CK isn’t chinese. That’s what “worldwide” means
Throw that away and get a gas lens