3:00 Bro-science. It takes 6 weeks to produce a trichome, so 2-3 days of dark is pointless. In fact, you're better off with 2-3 days of straight light at the end. Plants get zero energy in the dark, and 3 days is NOT long enough to grow pollen sacs. In fact, I water starve my plants the last week. It aids with drying.
"Nirvana" or it's new name "Tasty Terpenes" by Advanced Nutrients is also a great product for terp production. I've been growing for 30 years and I approve this video!
3:00 According to Bruce Bugbee, 48 hours of darkness is the exact opposite of what we should be doing. He prescribes lighting them up for two days before loping them.
What Grow it Easy is saying perhaps may be a little misleading. That a darkness period actually increases the amount or size of trichomes is also a novelty to me, but that it decreases trichomes in anyway too. I know that plants have a negative and a positive metabolism, the former metabolism in darkness, the latter one during day. During the negative metabolism a plant breaks down sugars and chlorophyll to keep itself alive although there is no light. So basically the dark period serves a better smoking experience.
@@ichsagnix4127 More than enough chlorophyll is broken down in drying & curing to keep the flavor if it’s done correctly. Negative metabolism is a euphemism for ‘starving’. Why do you think starving your girls is the best way to make them happy at the end of their life? You should be thinking to make them strong enough to still be happy when they get blasted at the end & not reward you with bleaching. You can do everything you think you need to be doing by just keeping your VPD in line. If the girl thinks it’s an open bar, she will move the moveable nutrients out of the way for you. Just flush chelate for a couple days then RO for 5-7 days. Day 6 blast them with every red you’ve got with some supplemental UV B/C. I use a 15% terrarium bulb at least 24” above each girl in addition to my tunables. Loping = Cutting the main for harvest.
aloe vera extract has silica in it, I use the x100. careful cuz it also has auxins, I would use it in the beginning growth stage then switch to nothing but coconut water powder in the later stages. no more than 2-3 applications at most you dont want to over saturate your bud with sugar cuz it will be ruined. some people say you dont need to give your plants sugar because the plant produces its own sugar but the plants will benefit from the cytokinins
some tips - i use a bit of phosphorous/bloom at the beginning of bloom which gives the plant a h/u that abundant phosphorous is available and to flower accordingly. UV-B lights for reptiles like exo-terra aren't too much to spring for. a lot of growers don't know about brix - molasses works for me. tips the "community" seems to always miss - grow in peat moss for earthy, smooth, rich flavor. coco tastes like your nute bottle. you can grow out what you got for a couple gens and find the good ones, the industry is fixated on a stable product, in reality, giving plants the opportunity to breed and vary also results in some really good weed. you can source dry potassium silicate for agriculture a lot cheaper than the ripoff "cannabis silica supplements" but it takes a bit of surfactant. i have a tub i paid like $8 for that will last me decades. fulvic acid is the same, trouble to dissolve but a dry supply will last forever.
Atomic traveller I agree with you (a little). On some subjects. There is definitely no need for all those so called flower booster's. They are all rip offs. Everyone will get alot better results if they just bought a little bag of phosphorus and potassium. And then add that to your regular nute application. During weeks 1 through 4 add a little phos. This will help produce more bud sites. And then in weeks 4 through 8 add a little potassium. This will help to fatten up your buds and increase trich production. And it only takes very little of these. Like a eighth of a teaspoon. Plus it will save alot of money. Now in regards to fulvic and humic acid during flowering. A few years ago I stumbled upon. Two scientific studies on this subject. And it was determined that the use of these two products during flowering cut trich production by as much of 30 to 40 percent. And one of these studies was from Israel. Which is the only country in the world that has been doing government backed studies on cannabis for over 50 years.
Very interesting , thanks 👍🏼👍🏼🇦🇺🇦🇺 may I ask a question please it’s been raining for 5 days, 100% humidity, on the 5th day I did not need to water( cocoa) for the first time water was, still in tray, is this normal OR IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE PLANT NOT TAKING UP WATER???? Put in a co2 bag 5 days ago on day 10 of switching to 12-12 light cycle to start flower. Have a terrific weekend??
Absolutely normal. when the humidity is too high, your plant won’t be able to move water through the plant as easily. Once the humidity drops back down to normal levels you should notice an increase in water uptake
Dude you should get a dehumidifier. That 100 percent humidity could and will cause all kinds of problems. It will definitely effect your yield as well. Any problem during your grow, even though you might think it's a little problem, Will definitely effect your total yield by as much as 5 to 30 percent. So think that during your grow you had 3 or 4 problems, that you think were little. But in all reality you could be cutting your total yield by as much as 50 percent. And then at the end of the grow, you are sitting there thinking why did I only get a oz off this plant when everyone else is getting 2 Oz's. After 40 years of growing, it still blow's me away how one little problem can hurt your yield so much. Anyway definitely get a dehumidifier. It will save you from having a lot problems. Plus it will increase your trich production by as much as 20 percent. One more thing this dude didn't say in this video is that the trichs are the only thing on your plant that gets you high. They contain all the cannabinoids including thca. Good luck.....
I was always using Advanced Nutrients base three part. Which really important nutes I need to add to increase potency (strength) of the final yield. I’ll repeat, interested in potency, not the taste.
Those were some crucial points to take into consideration 👍 the insect fr(ass) works wonders, especially when used after a lil fermentation. I've had SUPER good results from the added UVB,but I can't turn it off,uvb always on when my bloom (IR&far red& UV) dimmer knob is turned on... curious about ur thoughts on UVB spectrum and the duration of how long one should apply uvb in their grow.
I don’t know much about UV but can definitely research and make a video on it in the future. Make sure your subscribed with notifications on so you don’t miss it! 👍
@@GrowItEasy oh snap bro,I never expected that,I know how much Q &A y'all deal with 👍🤘 that's the shiznite!! I'll def be subscribed and ready gromie 👍 this is much appreciated and we will NEVER forget this🙏🙏🙏
Use uvb in last 2 weeks of flower, for 2 hours in the middle of the day (light schedule) for best results. Led uvb lights are unfortunately pretty useless, they dont put out a ton of light. Some light fixture use these uvb led diodes, i have a mars hydro fce3000 that has ir and uvb diodes, thus, they run the whole plant life when the light is on. If trying to supplement uvb, use a t5 style bulb. They output wayyy more light than a led. In my 4x4 with 2 mars hyrdo sp3000's, i run 2 California lightworks uvb fixtures (about $120 ea) the last 2 weeks of flower. The uvb absolutely increases trichomes, increases oil, terpene production, and even increases the plants defense system. Uvb is what gives us sun burn, and essentially does the same to the plant, causing it to react and defend itself. I don't know everything, but what i know, i know.... Ya know? Lol hope this helped ✌❤
Insect frass was mentioned...that's your chitosan. Triacantanol does not increase trichome production, quite the opposite, it improves YIELD to the detriment of flavor and actives by redirecting sugar and energy into the rootzone making more vigorous plants with efficient cell division. Think about your ATP triangle. Any added sulpher above baseline is only uptaken when plants are experiencing or at least perceiving stress (like alongside chitosan or during periods of draught). Not all strains improve flavor with sulpher uptake either imo, it's very strain specific as to whether increasing it will improve or hurt the flavors...plants with skunky/ammonia/rubber/fuel/lemon get better, stuff with sweet candy berry fruity terps or like soft kushy flavors I think are better on lower stressed plants. Jasmonate...now that one's a secret only whispered about in high places...shhhhhhh.
Just to clarify, triacontanol is not bad in general, it's bad in late flower. What you need to read about is auxins vs. cytokinins. The timing of these hormones is very important since they cancel each other out, with one or the other being dominant at certain points. Triacantanol is an auxin promoter...that's all you need to know about it. You can get auxin promotion from a variety of inputs. Cytokinin dominance throughout mid-flowering post stretch is what you want IF quality over quantity is what you're after my friend. More even canopies too. Then comes ripening, where ethylene is by far the most important factor for a good finish 😊
alfalfa for the triacantrol in the beginning, aloe vera x100 + humic & fulvic, then a few applications of coconut water later on. this year im experimenting with a bit of vitamin C and B vitamins as well
My dog ate my 4 legal plant grow. What a sad day for growing. I had to germinate my 1 last only seed, sad. Super blue haze autos planted in 5 gallons of potting soil under 700 watts leds.
The insect frass creates something called Chitan pronounced kitan. Insect frass isn’t cheap though. You can get the same effects at a cheaper price using shrimp meal. Doing it for 34 years in Mendocino co.
@@ktanner8994 the idea is that the Uv breaks down trichomes so the plant makes more to defend itself. The plant mainly makes oil and trichomes at night, so providing some darkness before harvest will make sure you harvest at peak resin production.
try to use High Nutrients, the best in the world. A brazilian nutrient, and the Resin Factory is extremly powerfull to make tricomas. Resin, Earth Booster and Shield. Try.
I do not recommend adding human fecal matter directly to any grow medium as this will allow many harmful pathogens to take over the root zone, HOWEVER this did make me laugh so thank you! lmao
3:00 Bro-science. It takes 6 weeks to produce a trichome, so 2-3 days of dark is pointless. In fact, you're better off with 2-3 days of straight light at the end. Plants get zero energy in the dark, and 3 days is NOT long enough to grow pollen sacs. In fact, I water starve my plants the last week. It aids with drying.
"Nirvana" or it's new name "Tasty Terpenes" by Advanced Nutrients is also a great product for terp production. I've been growing for 30 years and I approve this video!
I would love to hear you ramble around a bonfire.
@@SagaciousDjinn We do quite a lot of bonfire hanging out! Still kids at heart!
If I rely on what this guy advices in the A N line, it would cost a small fortune...
Genetics!! It’s all about the genetics.
@@ambercrowder8058 it is , but genetics mean nothing without that stand out pheno
3:00 According to Bruce Bugbee, 48 hours of darkness is the exact opposite of what we should be doing. He prescribes lighting them up for two days before loping them.
What do you mean by loping?
What Grow it Easy is saying perhaps may be a little misleading. That a darkness period actually increases the amount or size of trichomes is also a novelty to me, but that it decreases trichomes in anyway too.
I know that plants have a negative and a positive metabolism, the former metabolism in darkness, the latter one during day.
During the negative metabolism a plant breaks down sugars and chlorophyll to keep itself alive although there is no light. So basically the dark period serves a better smoking experience.
@@ichsagnix4127 More than enough chlorophyll is broken down in drying & curing to keep the flavor if it’s done correctly. Negative metabolism is a euphemism for ‘starving’. Why do you think starving your girls is the best way to make them happy at the end of their life? You should be thinking to make them strong enough to still be happy when they get blasted at the end & not reward you with bleaching.
You can do everything you think you need to be doing by just keeping your VPD in line. If the girl thinks it’s an open bar, she will move the moveable nutrients out of the way for you. Just flush chelate for a couple days then RO for 5-7 days. Day 6 blast them with every red you’ve got with some supplemental UV B/C. I use a 15% terrarium bulb at least 24” above each girl in addition to my tunables.
Loping = Cutting the main for harvest.
@@ichsagnix4127”chopping” lol.
Did you really just say "cannanabinoids" and expect me not to notice? LOL😂❤
😂
I heard a professor give a lecture on cannabis and he called them 'Trichromes'. lolz
Not to be confused with bananabinoids 🍌
I learned quite a bit I didn't know. Thanks for the video and info. Grower love.
Very informative video appreciate you taking your time and giving us a overview of what's going to help
Flower Fuel makes buds sticky and caked with trichs on all my plants. Everything looks really frosty within a week of first dose in flower.
Which one do u Use?
you can get silica tissue salts from any pharmacy, these are dissolvable silicas which is what you are looking for
I didn't know that, thank you for leaving that tip!
Can you name some examples of these salts?
@@aurasensor 1. Calc Fluor
strengthens tooth enamel
strengthens bones
restores tissue elasticity
helps hemorrhoids
helps hernia pain
2. Calc Phos
restores cells
heals fractures
helps the digestive system
3. Calc Sulph
purifies blood
reduces infection
treats skin disorders such as acne
prevents sore throats and colds
4. Ferr Phos
anti-inflammatory
reduces fever
accelerates healing
reduces bleeding
5. Kali Mur
purifies blood
treats infection
reduces swelling
aids digestion
6. Kali Phos
supports nerve health
lessens anxiety, irritability, and fatigue
aids memory
relieves headaches
7. Kali Sulph
heals mucous membrane
heals skin
balances metabolism
conditions your pancreas
8. Mag Phos
eases cramps
eases pain
reduces spasms
relieves tension headaches
9. Nat Mur
balances bodily fluids
reduces water retention
aids digestion
treats eczema
10. Nat Phos
neutralizes acidity
relieves seasickness
treats arthritis
aids digestion
11. Nat Sulph
cleans pancreas
cleans kidneys
cleans liver
treats cold and flu
12. Silica
conditions skin
conditions connective tissue
cleanses blood
strengthens hair and nails
aloe vera extract has silica in it, I use the x100. careful cuz it also has auxins, I would use it in the beginning growth stage then switch to nothing but coconut water powder in the later stages. no more than 2-3 applications at most you dont want to over saturate your bud with sugar cuz it will be ruined. some people say you dont need to give your plants sugar because the plant produces its own sugar but the plants will benefit from the cytokinins
Thanks I got a lot of information from this ,
some tips -
i use a bit of phosphorous/bloom at the beginning of bloom which gives the plant a h/u that abundant phosphorous is available and to flower accordingly. UV-B lights for reptiles like exo-terra aren't too much to spring for. a lot of growers don't know about brix - molasses works for me. tips the "community" seems to always miss - grow in peat moss for earthy, smooth, rich flavor. coco tastes like your nute bottle. you can grow out what you got for a couple gens and find the good ones, the industry is fixated on a stable product, in reality, giving plants the opportunity to breed and vary also results in some really good weed. you can source dry potassium silicate for agriculture a lot cheaper than the ripoff "cannabis silica supplements" but it takes a bit of surfactant. i have a tub i paid like $8 for that will last me decades. fulvic acid is the same, trouble to dissolve but a dry supply will last forever.
Hope your not running that uvb the full 12 hours a day
Atomic traveller
I agree with you (a little).
On some subjects.
There is definitely no need for all those so called flower booster's.
They are all rip offs.
Everyone will get alot better results if they just bought a little bag of phosphorus and potassium.
And then add that to your regular nute application.
During weeks 1 through 4 add a little phos.
This will help produce more bud sites.
And then in weeks 4 through 8 add a little potassium. This will help to fatten up your buds and increase trich production.
And it only takes very little of these.
Like a eighth of a teaspoon.
Plus it will save alot of money.
Now in regards to fulvic and humic acid during flowering.
A few years ago I stumbled upon. Two scientific studies on this subject.
And it was determined that the use of these two products during flowering cut trich production by as much of 30 to 40 percent.
And one of these studies was from Israel.
Which is the only country in the world that has been doing government backed studies on cannabis for over 50 years.
Always learning..
Good vid. 10 out of 10.👏
ty for your info,i see no1 has commented,so i thought i would to tell you ty for your time and info sir
Thank you for watching! that truly means a lot
Good info bro. Keep making vids. I subbed
I brought my outdoor plants indoors and my cats are using them as a litter box I swear it makes them more potent
My friend really believes it he calls it catweed
My nickname has always been Tomcat LOL and now I grow cat weed hahaha
All about genetics/ phenotype’s
Agreed !
New subber 👍 Great info, lookin forward to seeing more. Cheers ✌️🌱✌️
Welcome to the family! 👍
Thank You 😎
Thanks for the info I'm going to go get some insect fras.
Very interesting , thanks 👍🏼👍🏼🇦🇺🇦🇺 may I ask a question please it’s been raining for 5 days, 100% humidity, on the 5th day I did not need to water( cocoa) for the first time water was, still in tray, is this normal OR IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE PLANT NOT TAKING UP WATER???? Put in a co2 bag 5 days ago on day 10 of switching to 12-12 light cycle to start flower. Have a terrific weekend??
Absolutely normal. when the humidity is too high, your plant won’t be able to move water through the plant as easily. Once the humidity drops back down to normal levels you should notice an increase in water uptake
@@GrowItEasy THANKYOU SO MUCH!!! It did drink today👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🇦🇺
Dude you should get a dehumidifier.
That 100 percent humidity could and will cause all kinds of problems.
It will definitely effect your yield as well.
Any problem during your grow, even though you might think it's a little problem, Will definitely effect your total yield by as much as 5 to 30 percent.
So think that during your grow you had 3 or 4 problems, that you think were little.
But in all reality you could be cutting your total yield by as much as 50 percent.
And then at the end of the grow, you are sitting there thinking why did I only get a oz off this plant when everyone else is getting 2 Oz's.
After 40 years of growing, it still blow's me away how one little problem can hurt your yield so much.
Anyway definitely get a dehumidifier.
It will save you from having a lot problems.
Plus it will increase your trich production by as much as 20 percent.
One more thing this dude didn't say in this video is that the trichs are the only thing on your plant that gets you high.
They contain all the cannabinoids including thca.
Good luck.....
@@pragma2017 smoker for over 50 years, my first two pots half way thru flowering, I understand the passion...happy highs
@@eland65 same story different country 🙏🏼👍🏼👍🏼🇦🇺 excited!!
I was always using Advanced Nutrients base three part. Which really important nutes I need to add to increase potency (strength) of the final yield. I’ll repeat, interested in potency, not the taste.
Appreciate the info
@Real⁴²⁰ interesting stuff huh
You say "canannabanoides" There's like a banana in the middle!
Those were some crucial points to take into consideration 👍 the insect fr(ass) works wonders, especially when used after a lil fermentation. I've had SUPER good results from the added UVB,but I can't turn it off,uvb always on when my bloom (IR&far red& UV) dimmer knob is turned on... curious about ur thoughts on UVB spectrum and the duration of how long one should apply uvb in their grow.
I don’t know much about UV but can definitely research and make a video on it in the future. Make sure your subscribed with notifications on so you don’t miss it! 👍
@@GrowItEasy oh snap bro,I never expected that,I know how much Q &A y'all deal with 👍🤘 that's the shiznite!! I'll def be subscribed and ready gromie 👍 this is much appreciated and we will NEVER forget this🙏🙏🙏
Use uvb in last 2 weeks of flower, for 2 hours in the middle of the day (light schedule) for best results. Led uvb lights are unfortunately pretty useless, they dont put out a ton of light. Some light fixture use these uvb led diodes, i have a mars hydro fce3000 that has ir and uvb diodes, thus, they run the whole plant life when the light is on. If trying to supplement uvb, use a t5 style bulb. They output wayyy more light than a led. In my 4x4 with 2 mars hyrdo sp3000's, i run 2 California lightworks uvb fixtures (about $120 ea) the last 2 weeks of flower. The uvb absolutely increases trichomes, increases oil, terpene production, and even increases the plants defense system. Uvb is what gives us sun burn, and essentially does the same to the plant, causing it to react and defend itself. I don't know everything, but what i know, i know.... Ya know? Lol hope this helped ✌❤
@@WonkaWillE ua-cam.com/video/W-3ZZJyk5lc/v-deo.html
@@m.b.boyack2228 ua-cam.com/video/3PpcMXg0i1A/v-deo.html
Sulphur. Chitosan. Triacantrol. Don't tell no body
You forget copper
Someone has been doing their homework! Lol thank you for stopping by! I wont ;)
Insect frass was mentioned...that's your chitosan.
Triacantanol does not increase trichome production, quite the opposite, it improves YIELD to the detriment of flavor and actives by redirecting sugar and energy into the rootzone making more vigorous plants with efficient cell division. Think about your ATP triangle.
Any added sulpher above baseline is only uptaken when plants are experiencing or at least perceiving stress (like alongside chitosan or during periods of draught). Not all strains improve flavor with sulpher uptake either imo, it's very strain specific as to whether increasing it will improve or hurt the flavors...plants with skunky/ammonia/rubber/fuel/lemon get better, stuff with sweet candy berry fruity terps or like soft kushy flavors I think are better on lower stressed plants.
Jasmonate...now that one's a secret only whispered about in high places...shhhhhhh.
Just to clarify, triacontanol is not bad in general, it's bad in late flower. What you need to read about is auxins vs. cytokinins. The timing of these hormones is very important since they cancel each other out, with one or the other being dominant at certain points. Triacantanol is an auxin promoter...that's all you need to know about it. You can get auxin promotion from a variety of inputs. Cytokinin dominance throughout mid-flowering post stretch is what you want IF quality over quantity is what you're after my friend. More even canopies too. Then comes ripening, where ethylene is by far the most important factor for a good finish 😊
alfalfa for the triacantrol in the beginning, aloe vera x100 + humic & fulvic, then a few applications of coconut water later on. this year im experimenting with a bit of vitamin C and B vitamins as well
My dog ate my 4 legal plant grow. What a sad day for growing. I had to germinate my 1 last only seed, sad. Super blue haze autos planted in 5 gallons of potting soil under 700 watts leds.
clone your plant keep it going
My cat ate all my fucking peyote cacti
Thanks
Need reputable seed bank
Barneys Farm
I have had really good luck with sensible seeds
Just use UVB starting at the 6th week of flower😎😎
Problem solved. Money saved!
The insect frass creates something called Chitan pronounced kitan.
Insect frass isn’t cheap though. You can get the same effects at a cheaper price using shrimp meal.
Doing it for 34 years in Mendocino co.
If you're growing in soil, silica is already all over the place. Aka sand.
Diatomatious earth is the best and cheapest way to raise silicon.
Silica is very Alkaline. Be careful because its a more acidic loving plant
This is true, always double check ph before actually watering
I usually only add 1-2 ml per gallon
Make sure you add your silica first or else you'll get nutrient lockout
True should be separate from the nutrition
Actually you should stop using silica 2 to 4 weeks into 12/12.
Genotype not phenotype
Thank You, presented very well.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed, stay tuned for more! Better content coming very soon!
The dark period actually makes you lose Tricomes
Does it really?
@@ktanner8994 the idea is that the Uv breaks down trichomes so the plant makes more to defend itself. The plant mainly makes oil and trichomes at night, so providing some darkness before harvest will make sure you harvest at peak resin production.
Makes me laugh when pep think they need fancy nutz to get good results .
try to use High Nutrients, the best in the world. A brazilian nutrient, and the Resin Factory is extremly powerfull to make tricomas. Resin, Earth Booster and Shield. Try.
I use 2 teaspoons of human fecal mixed with 1 gal. Water. My friend says it's the best shit he has ever smoked
I do not recommend adding human fecal matter directly to any grow medium as this will allow many harmful pathogens to take over the root zone, HOWEVER this did make me laugh so thank you! lmao
can you get that at the drug store?
@@donefedup2208 no just make a pot of chili and next morning make your own!!!
dryer the better
Starfish dna
Rezin
Chitosan - winner
Molasses
Genotype not phenotype. Geno is an expression of the genetics, pheon is an expression of the environment.
Genotype is related to its dna and the phenotype is how that dna is expressed in the physical world
@@GrowItEasy thanks for rewording my comment.
I'm looking for the chemo type