SINGER 185 OVERHAUL SERIES #1: Clean Singer Shuttle & Race Areas & Maximize Your Machine’s Power!
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Given the solid engineering and high quality construction of many vintage sewing machines, they will often power up and even make a decent stitch without maintenance. HOWEVER, this is deceiving because we all want our machines to last as long as possible and also to perform at full power and potential. Here, I show how to remove the bracket that holds the machine's bobbin case and lubrication wick in position. Doing this procedure will allow you to clean/lubricate parts of the machine that are essential for long life and full power. Quite a number of Singer models (All mechanically cousins to each other). There are Singer 66, Singer 99, and Singer 185 models. Even treadle versions of some of these require this same maintenance work. NOTE: This is not part of normal sewer/user maintenance. For overhauling/restoring a machine, its very helpful for extending this "Heirloom Quality" machines future lifespan. The bobbin case rides on top of the the race and requires that the race upper and lower sections be clean and lubricated. NOTE: This is Part 1 and the removal is actually for the Bobbin Case Bracket, not the race as I mentioned in the video. Part 2 will show how the parts are reinstalled with a new oiling wick.
Good morning. I’m a 43 year old who always wanted to learn sewing. Such a valuable skill to have. I also an appreciation for older machines, and was lucky enough to find a Singer 185J for sale locally. You’re videos are extremely helpful, and will go a long way to make sure I keep mine going for a long time to come. Thank you for putting this content out there!
Wonderful!
I was able to disassemble to this point. I have in intact wick and spring. Huge chunks of oily dirty gritty lint came out. Your videos are very explicit and easy to follow. Thank you for your efforts.
Just got my 185K today. Looks like it was built in 1958 and, yes, it is a tractor. Sews like a charm. I'm missing the Stitch Regulator Knob.
Hi Diana. There were many of these machines produced in multiple factories so spares should be available. Try Bonanza.com or also Ebay and Etsy.
I came across a singer 66 at a discount donation store while shopping with a friend. I had been contemplating a vintage machine d/t needing more throat space for my new adventure in quilting. I looked it over, it looked rough and I didn't know anything about restoring one. I couldn't stop thinking about this machine. So I went back, driving 4 hrs, for something I felt I needed to save. Lots of cleaning later and it was beautiful...to me anyway. And I though I had done all the cleaning and oiling I needed. But trying to sew thicker layers of fabric just wasn't working and for the life of me couldn't figure out why. I had to push on the material to help feed it through. After watching some videos nobody else had this problem. Came across your videos on restoring a 66. Watched all 3 and, yes, thought boy can this guy talk. My applogies and I can not thank you enough! After watching them I went to my machine and sure enough the feed dogs didn't come up high enough to bite the fabric (didn't meet the top of a dime). I followed every step you showed and EEEWW! the gunk! The feed dog was stuck and had to work to get it out. Lots of gunk to clean off. Anyhow, put back together after cleaning the whole area like you showed and not only did it sound better, but it pulled the fabric through like a dream. Thank you! I really love this machine and was feeling disappointed in my purchase. By the way, I don't have the felt piece, but in that hole is a spring. I think the felt piece goes into this spring and the spring into the hole. I will be looking for your video on making this felt piece. I will be looking through more of your videos to learn as much as I can about it and maintaining it. I also was gifted a Kenmore Sylist 86 with the ability to drop the feed dogs. I have the same problem with the feed dogs and will be looking to see if the same fix will work for it.
Thank you for sharing. The 66 was one of Singers strongest machines and longest in production models. You are correct. The horn shaped spring is there to provide extra holding power for the felt piece and so you should definitely leave it installed in the shuttle bracket where it sits. Yes, I hope to be making a new video this summer on how to cut one of the felt pieces. You can still sew with a 66 that doesnt have the felt, but you need to oil the race/bobbin case more often which explains why they used the felt originally. Congratulations on saving a great machine!!
When I do mine I find it much easier to remove the whole lot including the oscillating shuttle to clean and then reassemble and set the timing. I do this so I can get in properly to the underside as it is usually thick with mud from all the wick oil and dirt the has been gathering under there for who knows how long. I like to check the timing on the 66/99 models anyway as it is only one set screw that is holding it in place and who knows who has been at it before me. :)
Thank-you! So helpful. I bought this model last night and was going to attempt to restore it today. Your video is extremely helpful. I will be looking for the sequel to help get it back together. 😃
Thanks for another great video! I recently got a Class 15 Japanese clone. It's in really great shape, but the needle shaft was squeaking crazy. I kept dumping oil in the wick in the top & I believe it's going to be good to go. It sews like a champ! The case is a shambles. Thanks again for all your info.
Hi, an excellent series of sewing machine videos that are both interesting and informative, thank you. A few days ago I purchased a Scottish version of a 1959 Singer 185k but would like to know how much 'play' should be in the motor shaft (laterally)? Mine has around 8mm -10mm... As I cannot find a service manual for this or similar machines (99 etc) Would you know and its this play excessive and should I change the armature bearings and brushes? Cheers.
Hello. I don't believe I have the service manual on this machine so I cannot confirm this for you, but in either case, the brushes would not have an impact on the lateral movement of the shaft and the bearings should not either. Worn bearings would make noise or seize up potentially. I can say that the 185s, 99s, and the 66 models that the first two are based on have more play in their drive train than other Singer models. One reason may be that the design goes back to the treadle era and the famous Singer "Red Eye" design popular in N. America as well as the Lotus Leaf decal design more common in the UK.
Thank you so much!!! I learned a lot. I have this same machine, was my dads, I love it but never really knew how to take care of it! Now on to part 2!!!!!
Glad I could help!
Thank you for such a brilliantly instructive video. I've just become the proud owner of a 185K machine. Am I correct that you said you advice against buying modern bobbins referred to as Class 66 bobbons? My wonderful machine came with a box of alternate feet but no other bobbins sadly.
Yes I'm not a fan of new bobbins. Not only should you avoid plastic versions, but many of the new reproduction metal bobbins are poorly made and can often cause issues with vintage machines. (Yes, even the bobbins back then were made with higher quality!). The good news is that vintage bobbins of most types including 66 class are plentiful and should be easily found on sites like Ebay, Etsy, etc and they should not cost very much. There are millions of them floating around the world as they were produced for many decades.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks for your reply. I'm desperate to try making a garment with this wonderful machine. I have dozens of vintage 1950s dress patterns so think it would be amazing to make one up using my lovely 185K machine. I'm literally going to unravel the bobbin and refill it with the appropriate colour thread to make a garment in the meantime before I purchase more vintage bobbins.
Thanks for this! Looking forward to how to put it back together!
You are quite welcome. The next installment should post in the next few days.
this is a great video...made it easy to understand what I needed to do
This is going to help with my 99. Did not realize there was a wick. Looking forward to the next installment. Any expertise in restoring singer cabinets? I have a cabinet (treadle with a 15) that could use a new finish. I would like to restore the finish as original, not a new modern finish. Thanks
Hey there Anthony. Yes, I hope to make a video soon on cabinet restoration. I use a technique that is both simple and inexpensive. I have several of my own cabinets waiting for me to restore them and so I will use one of these to make the video. Come to think of it, I too have a treadle table that is also waiting for some TLC!
Hi I have 185k but the turn wheel does not go to where the needle moves down. How can I move it back to place. I compared it to this video and the opening only lines up to the foot holders. Your assistance is greatly appreciate it.
Hi there. do you have any videos on how to unjam a singer 185? I have a handcrank 185 and my son cranked it so much the thread jammed and now its froze :(
thanks. great videos.
I have a video I made on a Pfaff machine that shows the process for getting thread off of a machine. I doubt your machine is broken but thread can surely lock them up; its that strong. Get a flashlight, take off the throat and needle plate, and start searching. You will need small tools such as those I show in my videos and LOTS of patience, but it can be done. Be patient and it should all come off. Also, check the underside of the machine to get at the thread jam from both above and below.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage
okay, thank you so much. I will do this as soon as I can. 🙂
when he was talking about cleaning lent I laughed because I remembered a commercial and a lady called her friend a LIIINT LIIIICKERR "lint licker" lol
Do you have a video on how to fix stitch length? My stitch length is too small even on the longest setting, thanks
Not yet!
I've got the exact same one with the table and all. I need to replace the metal stick that holds the thread on top and the rubber ring on the bobbin winder.
Where can I find these?
Verify with the seller but each of these should fit. Some came with metal and some with plastic spool pins. I've had good luck with this seller before. And each of these comes as a kit along with the washer.
www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/singer-sewing-machine-spool-pin-kit-fits-models-223-237-239-242-247-252-257-258-360-360?_pos=21&_sid=4196b248a&_ss=r
www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/singer-sewing-machine-spool-pin-kit-fits-models-223-237-239-242-247-252-257-258-360-360?_pos=21&_sid=4196b248a&_ss=r
you mention your favorite screwdrivers ... how do I find what you recommend? This is Series 1 but I need the screwdrivers to proceed. :-)
This was a wonderful video for the bobbin Thank you!. However, I have a 1916 model 66 and can't find a thing on how to take apart the upper tension area. I am hoping you can help. There is no set screw to take the tension stud out. I am very new to doing sewing machine repairs. It appears the thread take up spring won't come out unless I take out the tension stud out. However, neither one will come out. I am planning on ordering new parts, but can't get the spring out. Any help/idea?
Hello. Although the 185, 99, and 66 Singer models descend from older versions like yours, there are differences and the tension assembly design is one of those. I am planning on doing an overhaul this summer of a early 1900's Singer 15 class. Its not the same model as yours but this might answer some questions. The good news is that ordering parts even for Singers as old as some of those we have is still possible. And you cannot say that about most any other brand that I know of!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage That would be wonderful!! In the meantime, any suggestions on how to get the stud out? I saw one photo where they took off all of the parts, put the thumb screw back on and then used a screw driver to turn the stud. However, elsewhere they said not to use a screw driver on the stud. Opinion? I have let it soak with both sewing machine oil as well as Tri-flow and it still doesn't budge.
Dee-Ann - did you find an answer to this as I’m having the same issue. I also can’t get the tension spring out as it’s attached behind the main mooring rod. Like you, I too saw the video that said not to remove it. I have a 185K machine.
Dee-Ann Isenhart - see message above. Ever hopeful!
@@Parsley1968 It has been a while. It seems to me, after I let is soak a LONG time that I did use a screw driver. However, after the fact, I think it would be better to move the thumb nut closer to the end. You want the screwdriver to be stable in the tension stud but with as little "extra" as possible. In other words you want a good "bite" for the screwdriver but no extra. The more of the tension stud sticking out past the thumb nut, the greater the chance of bending it. I found excellent replacement parts from www.vintagesingerparts.com/.
If when I put the feed dogs back they rub on the side of the plate, would you recommend a new plate and or new feed dogs? I have tried to re-adjust the dogs but they only adjust up and down not side to side. I thought maybe I put the screw/bolt back in wrong so tried again and it still rubs. I tried some smo but it still rubs enough to make noise.
I would suggest trying to reset and reinsert your needle plate. Those plates can have some "play" in them which can impact how the feed dogs move against them as they rotate up and down. As long as you put the feed dogs back in securely, they normally don't have any adjustment although it would be prudent to also make sure you did not cross-thread the screws as you reinstalled the feed dogs. This entire series of Singer 66 machines and the derivative models were engineered with wider tolerances than their later designs. This means that some of the parts can "wiggle" within their installed range of space, if that makes sense.
Can I clean this area with a brush and warm soapy water?? Or is alcohol always best?
I prefer 99 % alcohol because it evaporates without leaving moisture. While you could use soapy water, removing all the moisture is difficult and you can set up corrosion which is not what you want.
Hi question here would you consider a singer 188k1 a good machine and is worth freeing up from rust and restoring to as new condition, or just forget it , I have newer machines, namely juki,s ddl, but i liked how it stitch seven years ago when I last used it.
A lot of the answer to your question is based in what you plan on sewing with the machine. That model was sold as a "Light Industiral" These would have been used in Drapery shops and or tailor shops. They are larger and heavier than vintage domestic machines, but not as large in scale as other industrials. They make great machines if properly overhauled and take 16×231 needles. Since you already own the machine, why not try and see what you can do for it? Not sure where you have stored it but it will really be helpful if you can keep it out of garage spaces or other areas where there is moisture. Once you get machines unfrozen, they often will come back with TLC. Good luck in whatever you decide to do and keep us up to date.
were do i get grease wick and dose modle 43 white roteryelectoric sewing machine tack wicks grease ,manul says lubercasion, but is differt type, it has funny oder, and i steching it,
I have the 185J and it breaks thread I think the tensions is out cause when the thread goes around the tension knob it @eems to be to tight and it breaks the thread
Try taking out all of your upper thread and rethread the machine. If that does not help, you may need to dissemble the upper tension assembly to see if there is a thread jam or other issue there.
also my recently acquired 185k is frozen. turning the wheel does not move the needle area.
Are you using 70 or 90% rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol for cleaning metal parts?
Mine is 91 % alcohol. Lower concentrations might work, but they would have more water which you don't want on metal parts.
How do I replace the belt?
Turn the pick up needle so its facing toward the release latch and the bobbin case will come out easier.
Please help. When I turn the handwheel, the needle bar is stuck, the gear system does not move, and the feed dog or and bobbin area does not oscillate. Could you please shed a light on how I can fix it issue, please? Thank you.
Hello. There are a wide variety of possible causes and its not easy for me to say without seeing the machine. Is this a machine that you have had and that ran in the past or did you just purchase it? Anything from rust to a broken needle lodged in the shuttle area could cause this.
once a person figures this out is it easy to do? such as change bobbin etc?
Yes, it is actually less involved than verticle side loading bobbins since once you have this overhauled and reinstalled, the case does not have to come out when you take the bobbin out for winding. It is literally a 'drop in' style bobbin.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage
oh, wow. Good point. I did not think about that. thanks a lot. I just bought a singer 185 and was thinking maybe I made a mistake. Do you like it? would you say its a great machine? (I did not finish watching your video yet if you said it in there)
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage
Also, what tools would you say are a "must" when owning this machine?
-Good videos :)
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage
How do I get my sewing machine in/on the hinges to secure it on the base?
Amei