One trick I heard is to stick a tennis ball through the drillbit so its around it, then it forces the bit to center inside the cavity and not go into the walls
I need to do the same thing-run a Cat 6 from the attic, through the second floor and ultimately to the first floor. You gave me some great ideas, thanks!
I bought a Teslong endoscope last year and it has been amazing for looking in closed spaces. I got one with 3 cameras and 16 foot cable. If I had to do it again I’d get one with just a 10 foot cable. The extra cable just gets in the way and it doesn’t go around bends easily so not even able to use the full length. I’ll probably buy an extra single camera cable since it has a smaller diameter and would not need as big of a hole to go through. Currently in the process of running wires up to my attic and it has not been as difficult as I thought it would be. Thanks for the nice video.
I found the same thing to be true for me. When I’m running wire, the shorter length is more usable. I agree that running wire from attic to basement is not as hard as it appears once you start doing.
Just found your channel. Im a fiber technician for a big cable company, I install fiber optics and coax, doing cable,internet and phone. Pretty much just running drop lines from the pole outside to a termination box on the house. Then from that box into the house to a modem. Then from there running lines all over the house. Mainly running ethernets. And so far I've been fortunate enough to not have to do a wall fish inside of a wall to another floor from scratch. I've always been able to do a tape and pull. But the company I work for is coming out with a new plan that's going to cause us technicians to have to run ethernets all over these houses now. So that's what lead me to this video, to sharpen my skills. I like the scope you got so I'll for sure use the link and grab one for myself. Appreciate the vids thanks
A few tips I've learned over the years: I almost neve drill a hole smaller than 3/4". That may sometimes be overkill but down the road when you decide to run more wires you will be glad you did. Always run your pull string first from end to end if possible and pull enough slack in it so when you are all done pulling your cables your pull string is still secured on both ends. String is cheap!
I get the 3/4" but pull string on both ends of the cable ? Once the cable is pulled with a rod or rope why do you need rope at the other end you just fed from ?
Nice video, nice teamwork to get the wires pulled. With a lot of newer homes sometimes the build in a chase through which to pull wires right from basement to attic, and if you're building a new home design that in. Sometimes, if you have a chimney running from basement to attic you can find space alongside it and get lucky enough to push a fishrod all the way up.
I have a home built in 1924 and while installing an exhaust fan in a bathroom I ran a line from basement to attic using the space around a vent pipe. Maybe nowadays with the plastic pipes the hole is too tight but with the old cast iron vents, there's usually room. Good luck to all and keep it fun.
My last home, it was prepped for cable in the basement. I asked the builder about an antenna hook up and he said there was no way to do that going from basement through 2 stories and then the attic. This was a custom home, and I found cavities and a conduit going from first to second floor in a cavity. I drilled an 1 1/4” hole in basenment and 2nd floor, dropped a line with a nut for weight and made the connection. I ran my coax to the attic, bought the largest antenna that would fit (20’x18’) and it worked for 14 years. I had a tract home built and paid a plumber to run 2@3” pvc plastic pipes from the attic to the basement. I moved the old antenna (from old home, looked like new, since it was in the attic) and hooked it up in the attic again, used the plastic pipe to get coax from attic to basement then to each room needed in this ranch. I’ve been living in this home 20 years and the antenna works great, it’s 34 years old.
This was awesome. I’m not a home owner or technician but always wanted to be an installer. The reason I’m here now is because I have a tech coming to install coaxial soon and I’m on the 3rd floor apt. (Cox) if anyone was carious.
Usually apartments like that installers aren't allowed to drill new holes. I work for a major cable company as a fiber and coax tech, and any MDU buildings like that were not allowed to drill new holes unless the building owner is on site during install. Those buildings are almost always pre-wired for coax though so it's usually pretty simple. And if the lines need to be replaced then it's just a matter of a simple tape and pull. Cut the line,tape the new line to it, and pull it through. Easy peasy. Or they could always just run the feed line from outside at the RE box, up the side of your building directly into your apartment. That's probably the easiest method if a tape and pull isn't possible
Also like I mentioned those apartments are always pre-wired most of the time. Chances are your technician is just going to walk into your apartment with a meter, and do a quick levels test on any existing coax barrel wall plates if there are any. More than likely there are some there. Once he finds an active line it's just a matter of throwing your equipment on and activating the serial numbers on your account. Coax is extremely extremely easy. I absolutely love it when my job let's me do coax installs so I can get a break from running fiber. Fiber is just way more complicated. Can't bend the line, it twists up on you if you're not careful, and you have to do a fiber splice, even if it's raining. Then have customers ask what's taking so long. OH you know, I'm just running a microscopic glass tube from that telephone pole 6 houses down that shoots a laser beam into your modem. Smh
Really great video. The best bit that I liked that I have seen most people get wrong is using a speed bit drill and not a twist bit drill. Twist bits are so much easier.
Badass bro, just yesterday I bought the extended 54in auger bit plus the 54in drill bit extension planning on hitting 4 rafters straight but I did it just to hit the exterior wall on my 2 hole therefore I could't poke all the way through and made like 5 holes. I just got me the NTS500 with rotating dual lenses. I already have some ideas on how it will help me but I wonder how to charge the customer for the convenience on not making holes. Greetings and hats off to your work
Thanks for asking. I have not made part 2 yet. The weather has been terrible here and part 2 requires digging a small trench for a backyard rock speaker. I plan on finishing part 2 in the early spring.
@@uselesseater5916 I know I know. I feel like a horrible person! I have the whole series filmed and I am editing it. I have over an hour of film produced and probably another 30 mins to go. It's going to be several more parts. I just finished medical school yesterday so I should have a lot more time to work on it now
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV I’m looking forward to trying it out , especially after this video. I’ve been fishing wires a long time, scopes are definitely nice.
@@stevenwilliams6638 I use a scope on almost every job. It makes the job easier and I feel better about making risky moves if I can verify my drill bot placement and obstacles.
@Alan Clegg ... When you first said, "GOT IT!", I actually LOL'ed. :-) I was just as happy. And, since that scope is waterproof, I assume in can be used in a sewer line? ... I have AL wiring in my home. I am considering rewiring the whole house in CU. But, I have no help. :-/
I still have that old Rigid scope, it's still working well. But specifically for automotive use I found the diameter too bulky to get through a spark plug hole. Now I have a second scope that works great. Cheap ones have an annoying delay, so the software interface is important.
Awesome vid and great technique. I personally would have cut drywall big enough to fit my drill into wall to drill through floor plate. It’s easier and as long as I tell the customer what I have to do and they are ok with drywall repairs then why not? Flex bits are great but they don’t last long and you can’t find one over 1” either.
I have cut MANY holes on drywall during my career. I'm sure I will still cut many more. If I can avoid a hole or two, I try to get it done without holes. I also used to guarantee my drywall work, which I patched myself. They wouldn't have to pay until they were satisfied with the repair. It was in my best interest to avoid cutting holes.
Don't forget to use my coupon code: ALANCLEGG_10%OFF teslong.com/collections/endoscopes/products/nts500d9-5-rotating-probe-inspection-camera-with-5-inch-hd-screen
Thanks for the intro to Teslong products. I’m in the market and wondering which camera size you got on the 500 and if you think it meets the need for just running wire. Thanks!
My order says I got the "NTS500 endoscope with dual lens. Camera type: .31 inch (8 mm) diameter and 15' of probe length." I'm super happy with everything about the camera and lens. The length is definitely longer than I need for in-wall scope use though. If I could go back, I would have ordered a shorter probe but everything else is amazing.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV RE Probe. Is it more important to have the autofocus ones over the dual camera ones? The focal length is pretty short on the non auto focus ones. Thoughts? Thanks.
@@carltonclarke9690 I really like the way my camera is set up. I can't comment on cameral technical specifications, but I can say that I never felt like I had a problem with focus. If you look at the video where I scope out the basement ceiling from through the hole I drilled, you'll see that the image is pretty clear at all distances. I really like the dual camera feature. Sometimes I go through a stud and I need to see what is immediately behind it to see if there are obstacles or if my glow rod/string is there.
Thanks for the video! I'm trying to run HDMI between floors (2nd floor to 1st floor), and may be in over my head. :-S Was trying to get by on a budget, and was using a Forstner bit I already had, but that definitely takes more work to get through the wood. And of course, the first hole went into a nail. Forstner bit didn't like that.
Ouch! If you're going to be installing a long HDMI cable, use an HDMI balun instead. Look it up. They work GREAT and running a single CAT6 cable is WAY easier than running an HDMI cable. An HDMI cable can also break later on down the road and then you're toast. Good luck!
@@rfh1987 Ya. They aren't cheap, BUT they are worth it. They are much more reliable than long HDMI cables too. As technology changes, I have seen cheap HDMI cables fail to handle advancements in technology.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV also the HDMI cable length restriction is a factor unless you start amplifying/repeating the signal, especially if not using an active cable
@@mikey38632 Correct. I have had several issues with long cables, but I always throw in extra CAT6 cables JUST in case there is an issue and I need to use a balun.
Does anyone know of a video where you’re going from attic to basement via two finished floors? I can’t make a hole in my living room ceiling on the first floor- and if i were going up from the basement, I dont want to make a hole in my bedrooms or upstairs hallway floors…
Unfortunately, running wire and patching holes go hand in hand most of the time. If you can find a chase that runs from the attic to the basement, you can use that. Sometimes they do that for HVAC or gas lines. If you don't have that, you're going to be cutting holes.
@ I feel like one can drill a hole, but not a hole that you’d have to actually see. Perhaps behind the wall where the floor is rather than into the finished area. Electricians certainly do this. I’ll have to perform further research.
Please tell me how I can find other professionals that can do this. What titles do I search? What certifications or licenses should they have? Should I just look for an electrician?
Electricians CAN do this but not all of them will. Most will opt to cut a hole and let you patch it. I don't know how to find one that will guarantee a skillful install instead of hacking up the place. Everyone will say they won't cut unnecessary holes, but its difficult to know until they are done.
How would you run a cable from a first floor to a second floor? Would you need to cut a blank plate hole near the top of the wall on the first floor to catch the flex drill end if I drill through the plate between the floors via a gang box hole on the second floor?
If you can drill through the top plate of the first floor using a cutout on the second floor, you should be able to just shoot down a glow rod through that hole and hopefully it goes all the way to the bottom of the 1st floor wall (assuming it does not have a fireblock). I use an in-wall scope to help guide my drill bits and glow rods for installs like this.
If you have Cat5 cables which are each home runs, you just have to change the connector. If you have the old phone lines with 6 wires or if you have cat5 cables that are daisy-chained, you’ll have to re-run new cable. Sorry!
@@TonyHarlan Awesome! I sent off an email today, but it's Friday so I am not sure when I'll hear back. I'll respond as soon as I do. Thanks again for letting me know and thanks for watching!
In my house I found an alternative method because there was just no way I was going to effectively get a cable from our basement through 2 stories into the attic. All the wiring in the house was original and so installed and stapled before the drywall was put in. Horizontal bracing scattered throughout. Electric, water, etc behind the drywall. They didn't put conduit in either. No thanks. House was built right before running Ethernet all through the house was common. So instead I was able to punch through from the basement into the garage. The garage has a high 2 story ceiling and its own attic space. So I can run the cables vertically inside the garage along the outside of the wall and then punch through to the attic above. From there run the cable throughout the attic and drop down into any 2nd floor room. Some sections of white PVC piping and U clamps secured to the wall make a tidy external conduit/wire raceway. Cut the holes with a hole saw for the entry/exit areas of the pipe and spray some foam I'm the crevices or use some fire block material.
Thank you for bringing this up. I am actually planning on doing part two in a couple of weeks. I finished part one at a very busy time of year and right before winter so doing part 2 which requires a lot of outside work would have been miserable. I already have the speakers and volume controls ready to go so stay tuned.
my concern in this video is the basement, the wall behind you i hope is not a load bearing wall. those 2x6 studs have been compromised by that plumbing in them. other that great info on running wiring
Studs are not compromised unless there’s a big big hole in them. A 2x4 can have a 1-1/4” hole in the middle and lose almost zero strength and stability
Whoever cabled and wired my house made sure you couldn't move or pull on any cable or run another cable same location. even fiberglass fishing rods don't go through.
If your wiring was run during construction, it will be stapled down and cannot be removed. If the wiring was run during a remodel (like mine) it will most likely be loose in the wall and easy to use as a pull string to run more wires.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV during construction. They won't budge. can't even run fiber fish rods through wall outlets. wall insulation. Guess I'll be punching holes through the ceiling and drop cable that way.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV only get most of the one rod in and that's about it. I even tried using a small scope with Led but the way they had outlet mounted right at the 2x4, I think, it's impossible to go straight up and then the insulation can't be penetrated. Unbelievable, It's even harder to trace cables in the attic. They used cheap loose insulation instead of those large pads, if I don't get this done soon, it will be impossible in a week or two in the Houston heat and humidity. So an ugly wire hanging from the ceiling will be the way to go.
@@WV591 Ok. If I'm understanding correctly, you have insulation in your walls, and then you have a fire block about half way up your wall. Fire blocks are 2x4's turned sideways halfway up the wall that separates the top half of the wall from the bottom half. The easiest way to get past fire blocks is to cut a small above the block so you can get the wire from the attic then drill down through the fireblock to the box below.
Ha! Yes. I am. I'm finishing up my second year and it's killing me. This is why I don't post many videos anymore. No time for anything. I have one I'll be working on over the next couple of weeks though. I took down my med school videos because I thought they might be confusing to subscribers.
Your dry hose is a major problem. One get rid of that crappy hose and get yourself all aluminum dryer flex duct. Two get rid of all excess. No sags. What you now have is a pipe that can't be cleaned and it is going to fill up with water condensate. If you can run metal duct then run that. Keeping flex has short as possible is the best.
You should be wearing a hard hat in that attic. Roofing nails can be annoying, when they penetrate your scalp. Ouch, and the bleeding, makes it hard to see anything through the blood. Keep your tetanus shots up to date as well.
Good tip. In my case, I hate wearing a hard hat so much that I would rather take a nail to the scalp. You're right though, a hard hat and safety glasses is the right approach.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV The first time might be the last time… Klein sells a vented hard hat that features a light on it, it’s so hot here right now that I wouldn’t go “upstairs” w/o something like that.
One trick I heard is to stick a tennis ball through the drillbit so its around it, then it forces the bit to center inside the cavity and not go into the walls
I've heard of that trick too. I haven't tried it yet, but it sounds like it would work well.
@shellderp Thanks Bro ,that's a FANTASTIC tip .
I like the idea of being in the centre 🙏
Great trick and would keep it up to code too. I know in some locations require you to have max hole sizes and in the center of the plate.
I respect your view on a to be idea... that's how i train my guys... don't focus on the project... focus on your task
Sweet! Great minds think alike.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV Seriously good tip! Never heard that before! Thanks!
Everything you said and the techniques you used are spot on bro. For a slight second I was like "he's not gonna tie follower string?"... My man...
Thanks! I have to be the nation's biggest consumer of electrical string. I love the stuff!
I need to do the same thing-run a Cat 6 from the attic, through the second floor and ultimately to the first floor. You gave me some great ideas, thanks!
Awesome! Gad to help
I highly recommend running fiber rather than cat 6.
I bought a Teslong endoscope last year and it has been amazing for looking in closed spaces. I got one with 3 cameras and 16 foot cable. If I had to do it again I’d get one with just a 10 foot cable. The extra cable just gets in the way and it doesn’t go around bends easily so not even able to use the full length. I’ll probably buy an extra single camera cable since it has a smaller diameter and would not need as big of a hole to go through. Currently in the process of running wires up to my attic and it has not been as difficult as I thought it would be. Thanks for the nice video.
I found the same thing to be true for me. When I’m running wire, the shorter length is more usable. I agree that running wire from attic to basement is not as hard as it appears once you start doing.
I literally just got my teslong today !!!
Just found your channel. Im a fiber technician for a big cable company, I install fiber optics and coax, doing cable,internet and phone. Pretty much just running drop lines from the pole outside to a termination box on the house. Then from that box into the house to a modem. Then from there running lines all over the house. Mainly running ethernets. And so far I've been fortunate enough to not have to do a wall fish inside of a wall to another floor from scratch. I've always been able to do a tape and pull. But the company I work for is coming out with a new plan that's going to cause us technicians to have to run ethernets all over these houses now. So that's what lead me to this video, to sharpen my skills. I like the scope you got so I'll for sure use the link and grab one for myself. Appreciate the vids thanks
THANKS MAN! Good luck on those installs. Fishing walls is always an adventure. You'll do great!
A few tips I've learned over the years: I almost neve drill a hole smaller than 3/4". That may sometimes be overkill but down the road when you decide to run more wires you will be glad you did. Always run your pull string first from end to end if possible and pull enough slack in it so when you are all done pulling your cables your pull string is still secured on both ends. String is cheap!
Those are both great tips! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching
I get the 3/4" but pull string on both ends of the cable ? Once the cable is pulled with a rod or rope why do you need rope at the other end you just fed from ?
@@alhawkins3376 -- to upgrade or replace the first cable or to add an additional cable.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAVI work for Kone also. Nice gear! 😉
@@lcmurdal Stick to that Kone method!
Nice video, nice teamwork to get the wires pulled. With a lot of newer homes sometimes the build in a chase through which to pull wires right from basement to attic, and if you're building a new home design that in. Sometimes, if you have a chimney running from basement to attic you can find space alongside it and get lucky enough to push a fishrod all the way up.
Those are good tips. Thanks for sharing!
I have a home built in 1924 and while installing an exhaust fan in a bathroom I ran a line from basement to attic using the space around a vent pipe. Maybe nowadays with the plastic pipes the hole is too tight but with the old cast iron vents, there's usually room. Good luck to all and keep it fun.
Great idea. Often they have to block off any passages that go between floors for fire code.
My last home, it was prepped for cable in the basement. I asked the builder about an antenna hook up and he said there was no way to do that going from basement through 2 stories and then the attic. This was a custom home, and I found cavities and a conduit going from first to second floor in a cavity. I drilled an 1 1/4” hole in basenment and 2nd floor, dropped a line with a nut for weight and made the connection. I ran my coax to the attic, bought the largest antenna that would fit (20’x18’) and it worked for 14 years. I had a tract home built and paid a plumber to run 2@3” pvc plastic pipes from the attic to the basement. I moved the old antenna (from old home, looked like new, since it was in the attic) and hooked it up in the attic again, used the plastic pipe to get coax from attic to basement then to each room needed in this ranch. I’ve been living in this home 20 years and the antenna works great, it’s 34 years old.
I love hearing stories about victories like this!
Thank you so much! It’s so hard to find tips like this on cable running.
Awesome! I'm glad to help
This was awesome. I’m not a home owner or technician but always wanted to be an installer. The reason I’m here now is because I have a tech coming to install coaxial soon and I’m on the 3rd floor apt. (Cox) if anyone was carious.
Sweet! Make the installer watch the video
Usually apartments like that installers aren't allowed to drill new holes. I work for a major cable company as a fiber and coax tech, and any MDU buildings like that were not allowed to drill new holes unless the building owner is on site during install. Those buildings are almost always pre-wired for coax though so it's usually pretty simple. And if the lines need to be replaced then it's just a matter of a simple tape and pull. Cut the line,tape the new line to it, and pull it through. Easy peasy. Or they could always just run the feed line from outside at the RE box, up the side of your building directly into your apartment. That's probably the easiest method if a tape and pull isn't possible
Also like I mentioned those apartments are always pre-wired most of the time. Chances are your technician is just going to walk into your apartment with a meter, and do a quick levels test on any existing coax barrel wall plates if there are any. More than likely there are some there. Once he finds an active line it's just a matter of throwing your equipment on and activating the serial numbers on your account. Coax is extremely extremely easy. I absolutely love it when my job let's me do coax installs so I can get a break from running fiber. Fiber is just way more complicated. Can't bend the line, it twists up on you if you're not careful, and you have to do a fiber splice, even if it's raining. Then have customers ask what's taking so long. OH you know, I'm just running a microscopic glass tube from that telephone pole 6 houses down that shoots a laser beam into your modem. Smh
Really great video.
The best bit that I liked that I have seen most people get wrong is using a speed bit drill and not a twist bit drill. Twist bits are so much easier.
I agree. They also stick into the wood exactly where you want them to.
My drill bit would have fallen off in the wall void. Lol. Great vid.
Rocking the Kone shirt is crazy bro
Super good work man! Fishing wires down a wall is an art and you make it look easy!!!
Thanks man!
believe , the knot what you did can come down very easy at hard pulls
Negative. The string will snap before the knot comes out.
Badass bro, just yesterday I bought the extended 54in auger bit plus the 54in drill bit extension planning on hitting 4 rafters straight but I did it just to hit the exterior wall on my 2 hole therefore I could't poke all the way through and made like 5 holes.
I just got me the NTS500 with rotating dual lenses. I already have some ideas on how it will help me but I wonder how to charge the customer for the convenience on not making holes. Greetings and hats off to your work
That's awesome! Please post an update and let us know how it goes. I freaking love my scope too. I use it all the time.
What a freaking master class. Great work man!
Thanks! I think you're the best hospital administrator I have ever seen.
Hello, I've just seen Part 1 and now am wondering if Part 2 was ever posted. I didn't see it in the video listing so thought I'd ask!
Thanks for asking. I have not made part 2 yet. The weather has been terrible here and part 2 requires digging a small trench for a backyard rock speaker. I plan on finishing part 2 in the early spring.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV awesome! Thanks for responding, I'll stay tuned.
Is their a part 2 yet? Its only been a year since you commented.@@AlanCleggYouDoAV
@@uselesseater5916 I know I know. I feel like a horrible person! I have the whole series filmed and I am editing it. I have over an hour of film produced and probably another 30 mins to go. It's going to be several more parts. I just finished medical school yesterday so I should have a lot more time to work on it now
Thanks for responding. I am here and interested in the next video :)@@AlanCleggYouDoAV
Discount code for the scope still works. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching. I'm glad the code still works too. I freaking love their scopes!
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV I’m looking forward to trying it out , especially after this video. I’ve been fishing wires a long time, scopes are definitely nice.
@@stevenwilliams6638 I use a scope on almost every job. It makes the job easier and I feel better about making risky moves if I can verify my drill bot placement and obstacles.
@Alan Clegg ... When you first said, "GOT IT!", I actually LOL'ed. :-) I was just as happy. And, since that scope is waterproof, I assume in can be used in a sewer line? ... I have AL wiring in my home. I am considering rewiring the whole house in CU. But, I have no help. :-/
Thanks. Very informative. Great teamwork. I appreciate you sharing.
I have the world's best team behind me! Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching!
I still have that old Rigid scope, it's still working well. But specifically for automotive use I found the diameter too bulky to get through a spark plug hole. Now I have a second scope that works great. Cheap ones have an annoying delay, so the software interface is important.
I could not agree more. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
Thanks. But how do I run wires on high walls from basement through to the third floor
Awesome vid and great technique. I personally would have cut drywall big enough to fit my drill into wall to drill through floor plate. It’s easier and as long as I tell the customer what I have to do and they are ok with drywall repairs then why not? Flex bits are great but they don’t last long and you can’t find one over 1” either.
I have cut MANY holes on drywall during my career. I'm sure I will still cut many more. If I can avoid a hole or two, I try to get it done without holes. I also used to guarantee my drywall work, which I patched myself. They wouldn't have to pay until they were satisfied with the repair. It was in my best interest to avoid cutting holes.
Excellent! Could send a link for the camera please ??
Don't forget to use my coupon code: ALANCLEGG_10%OFF
teslong.com/collections/endoscopes/products/nts500d9-5-rotating-probe-inspection-camera-with-5-inch-hd-screen
Perfect job dude
Thanks man!
Half hitches, great tip mate
Love me some half-hitches!
Thanks for the intro to Teslong products. I’m in the market and wondering which camera size you got on the 500 and if you think it meets the need for just running wire. Thanks!
My order says I got the "NTS500 endoscope with dual lens. Camera type: .31 inch (8 mm) diameter and 15' of probe length." I'm super happy with everything about the camera and lens. The length is definitely longer than I need for in-wall scope use though. If I could go back, I would have ordered a shorter probe but everything else is amazing.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV awesome. Thanks so much for the reply.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV RE Probe. Is it more important to have the autofocus ones over the dual camera ones? The focal length is pretty short on the non auto focus ones. Thoughts? Thanks.
@@carltonclarke9690 I really like the way my camera is set up. I can't comment on cameral technical specifications, but I can say that I never felt like I had a problem with focus. If you look at the video where I scope out the basement ceiling from through the hole I drilled, you'll see that the image is pretty clear at all distances. I really like the dual camera feature. Sometimes I go through a stud and I need to see what is immediately behind it to see if there are obstacles or if my glow rod/string is there.
Can you please provide the link for the flex tool you used. The flex drill bit.
Which flex tool?
Flex drill bit.
Hi, great video. how to run cctv cables from basement into cavity up to main level above back door?
Yes, thank you for this video. Excellent work as always
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! Good luck on your project!
great video Alan
Great comment Glenn
Thanks for the video! I'm trying to run HDMI between floors (2nd floor to 1st floor), and may be in over my head. :-S Was trying to get by on a budget, and was using a Forstner bit I already had, but that definitely takes more work to get through the wood. And of course, the first hole went into a nail. Forstner bit didn't like that.
Ouch! If you're going to be installing a long HDMI cable, use an HDMI balun instead. Look it up. They work GREAT and running a single CAT6 cable is WAY easier than running an HDMI cable. An HDMI cable can also break later on down the road and then you're toast. Good luck!
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV Thanks for the tip! Wish those adapters were cheaper, though.
@@rfh1987 Ya. They aren't cheap, BUT they are worth it. They are much more reliable than long HDMI cables too. As technology changes, I have seen cheap HDMI cables fail to handle advancements in technology.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV also the HDMI cable length restriction is a factor unless you start amplifying/repeating the signal, especially if not using an active cable
@@mikey38632 Correct. I have had several issues with long cables, but I always throw in extra CAT6 cables JUST in case there is an issue and I need to use a balun.
You can rent wall scopes too.
Oh! I Didn't know that. Thanks for posting the tip
Does anyone know of a video where you’re going from attic to basement via two finished floors? I can’t make a hole in my living room ceiling on the first floor- and if i were going up from the basement, I dont want to make a hole in my bedrooms or upstairs hallway floors…
Unfortunately, running wire and patching holes go hand in hand most of the time. If you can find a chase that runs from the attic to the basement, you can use that. Sometimes they do that for HVAC or gas lines. If you don't have that, you're going to be cutting holes.
@ I feel like one can drill a hole, but not a hole that you’d have to actually see. Perhaps behind the wall where the floor is rather than into the finished area. Electricians certainly do this. I’ll have to perform further research.
@@dwayned.5238I wish you the best of luck with your installation! Let us know how it goes.
Seems easier when you don't have your walls filled with Rockwool insulation like I do :D
Please tell me how I can find other professionals that can do this. What titles do I search? What certifications or licenses should they have? Should I just look for an electrician?
Electricians CAN do this but not all of them will. Most will opt to cut a hole and let you patch it. I don't know how to find one that will guarantee a skillful install instead of hacking up the place. Everyone will say they won't cut unnecessary holes, but its difficult to know until they are done.
How would you run a cable from a first floor to a second floor? Would you need to cut a blank plate hole near the top of the wall on the first floor to catch the flex drill end if I drill through the plate between the floors via a gang box hole on the second floor?
If you can drill through the top plate of the first floor using a cutout on the second floor, you should be able to just shoot down a glow rod through that hole and hopefully it goes all the way to the bottom of the 1st floor wall (assuming it does not have a fireblock). I use an in-wall scope to help guide my drill bits and glow rods for installs like this.
dude, this video was clutch, thanks a ton!
Well, I think YOU are clutch! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching
like the father i never had. thank you
Thank you son! Now… go clean your room.
Part 2 where?
I just finished filming it. Now I need to edit. Hopefully within the next week or two.
I have rj11 in my rooms how can I get rid of them and add ethernet instead????
If you have Cat5 cables which are each home runs, you just have to change the connector. If you have the old phone lines with 6 wires or if you have cat5 cables that are daisy-chained, you’ll have to re-run new cable. Sorry!
Edit your descriptions to link to the other parts in the series. Both previous and next parts. YT isn't smart enough to to do that for you!!!
I love this guy
Me too!
good job bud...
You're awesome. Thanks for watching
GREAT VIDEO THANK YOU!
Thank you for watching!
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV your welcome hope your doing great! 🤙🏼🙏🏼
Who built your home Mate?
Someone who hates me I guess
"this is not a teslong commercial" proceeds to talk about teslong for 15 minutes. Lol good video though
Ya. Sorry man. I’m talky.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV haha no problem I'm just poking fun. Appreciate the video though very helpful!
@@jfleckp Sweet! I hope your installation comes out perfectly. Thanks for the view and for commenting!
@21:00 I'm so glad I'm not the only one. lmao
Hahahaha!
not cement, concrete, great video
I have no idea what that means but I'm sure you're right.
Discount code doesn't work? Is there an updated code?
Hmmmm… I was wondering if it still worked. I’ll check and hopefully they answer me soon. I’ll post ASAP. Thanks for letting me know.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV I'll pick one up today if so 🤪
@@TonyHarlan Awesome! I sent off an email today, but it's Friday so I am not sure when I'll hear back. I'll respond as soon as I do. Thanks again for letting me know and thanks for watching!
@@TonyHarlan Seems to be working now. Hopefully, it works for you. Best wishes and let us know how your install goes.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV "This code isn't valid for the items in your cart". On the NTS500B. UGH
I have to get a low voltage certificate to do this kind of work 😫
If you want to be a contractor, yes. If you’re working on your own house, you do not need any license.
"Boom", do this do this, "Boom!", do this, etc "Boooom!"
You cannot forget the boom! Without the boom, nothing comes out as planned.
A flex bit is $60, it’s not too expensive to do it right.
The coupon code doesn’t work
Dang. I’ll look into it.
Try this one:
ALANCLEGG10OFF
In my house I found an alternative method because there was just no way I was going to effectively get a cable from our basement through 2 stories into the attic. All the wiring in the house was original and so installed and stapled before the drywall was put in. Horizontal bracing scattered throughout. Electric, water, etc behind the drywall. They didn't put conduit in either. No thanks. House was built right before running Ethernet all through the house was common. So instead I was able to punch through from the basement into the garage. The garage has a high 2 story ceiling and its own attic space. So I can run the cables vertically inside the garage along the outside of the wall and then punch through to the attic above. From there run the cable throughout the attic and drop down into any 2nd floor room. Some sections of white PVC piping and U clamps secured to the wall make a tidy external conduit/wire raceway. Cut the holes with a hole saw for the entry/exit areas of the pipe and spray some foam I'm the crevices or use some fire block material.
That's a good use of the layout that you were provided. Nice work!
Nice idea, my garage is similar but I'd have to run through insulation
Part 2 sadly never happened.
Thank you for bringing this up. I am actually planning on doing part two in a couple of weeks. I finished part one at a very busy time of year and right before winter so doing part 2 which requires a lot of outside work would have been miserable. I already have the speakers and volume controls ready to go so stay tuned.
👍👍👍
LMFAO, me at every fucking electrical job. @4:30. Why is this house built like this?!
Yup! Happened a million times
Sir did you have me work
my concern in this video is the basement, the wall behind you i hope is not a load bearing wall. those 2x6 studs have been compromised by that plumbing in them. other that great info on running wiring
Studs are not compromised unless there’s a big big hole in them. A 2x4 can have a 1-1/4” hole in the middle and lose almost zero strength and stability
@BigBoii1369 Take a look. The only thing holding those boards together is the metal brackets. I'm pretty sure they are compromised
a Pro?
An amateur - he doesn't even wear knee cap protection.
A true amateur
Knees of steel.
Whoever cabled and wired my house made sure you couldn't move or pull on any cable or run another cable same location.
even fiberglass fishing rods don't go through.
If your wiring was run during construction, it will be stapled down and cannot be removed. If the wiring was run during a remodel (like mine) it will most likely be loose in the wall and easy to use as a pull string to run more wires.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV during construction. They won't budge. can't even run fiber fish rods through wall outlets. wall insulation. Guess I'll be punching holes through the ceiling and drop cable that way.
@@WV591 Hmmmm... you can't run glow rods in the wall? Do they stop half way or they don't go in at all?
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV only get most of the one rod in and that's about it. I even tried using a small scope with Led but the way they had outlet mounted right at the 2x4, I think, it's impossible to go straight up and then the insulation can't be penetrated. Unbelievable, It's even harder to trace cables in the attic. They used cheap loose insulation instead of those large pads, if I don't get this done soon, it will be impossible in a week or two in the Houston heat and humidity. So an ugly wire hanging from the ceiling will be the way to go.
@@WV591 Ok. If I'm understanding correctly, you have insulation in your walls, and then you have a fire block about half way up your wall. Fire blocks are 2x4's turned sideways halfway up the wall that separates the top half of the wall from the bottom half. The easiest way to get past fire blocks is to cut a small above the block so you can get the wire from the attic then drill down through the fireblock to the box below.
Are you still in med school?
Ha! Yes. I am. I'm finishing up my second year and it's killing me. This is why I don't post many videos anymore. No time for anything. I have one I'll be working on over the next couple of weeks though. I took down my med school videos because I thought they might be confusing to subscribers.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV Awesome, wish you the best!
@@32_Ronin Thanks man! Same to you.
Half Hitches?!!? I haven't heard anyone call a knot that since Boy Scouts...
Ha! I wish I could say I learned knots in the Boy Scouts. I mostly learned that I'm afraid of heights and rock climbing is not my thing.
as an electrician, half hitches are a daily part of our work
@@dematt321 Ya. I am a half-hitch-tying machine by now as well.
Just drill a 1” hole, you had more than enough space lol
Possible. I am not sure that I had a sharp 1" bit at the time.
hello sir how are you
Your dry hose is a major problem. One get rid of that crappy hose and get yourself all aluminum dryer flex duct. Two get rid of all excess. No sags. What you now have is a pipe that can't be cleaned and it is going to fill up with water condensate. If you can run metal duct then run that. Keeping flex has short as possible is the best.
It’s not a dryer vent. It’s a bathroom fan. I do need to cut it down though.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV For sure shorten it. Condensate can pool and cause you problems you for sure don't want.
nice video, but I wouldn't call it MAD SKILLS. Meh. it's okay
Story of my life.
You should be wearing a hard hat in that attic. Roofing nails can be annoying, when they penetrate your scalp. Ouch, and the bleeding, makes it hard to see anything through the blood. Keep your tetanus shots up to date as well.
Good tip. In my case, I hate wearing a hard hat so much that I would rather take a nail to the scalp. You're right though, a hard hat and safety glasses is the right approach.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV The first time might be the last time… Klein sells a vented hard hat that features a light on it, it’s so hot here right now that I wouldn’t go “upstairs” w/o something like that.
Do you brag about being a pro in the title of every video you make?
wouldn't it be relatively easy to remove the baseboard then drill. no holes in wall!
I try not to remove baseboards. I know it is a common technique, but if things go wrong with that, I'm not equipped to fix it.
no