Heat Treating 01 Tool Steel Plane Blank Irons at Home
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- Опубліковано 14 вер 2011
- Come along on my first time hardening and annealing a plane blade. I'm using some O1 blank moulding plane irons from Lie-Nielsen. Using a propane torch and a homemade kiln of Fyre Bricks bought from the local pottery store I ended up with the perfect solution for a little plow plane.
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This method worked. I'm quite happy with result. It was super cheap and fast. The magnet did not get hot at all due to fire bricks. Ii moved it almost immediately. Those kiln bricks work suprisingly well. st.
Before you hurt yourself:
You are correct in that from an annealed state, you need to take a steel up to its austentitic state. Then by a swift reduction in temperature, you can achieve a martensitic phase change (hardening). Heating it up to non-austentitic state afterwards is called tempering. If you anneal it (slowly cool from austentitic point) you will have done nothing but restore it to its original soft state. I also have a few other tips for you regarding forging and quenching.
Apprentice machinist here, and looking up videos as I work with 01 tooling steel and I appreciate your comment! :D What other tips do you have? I heat them with an acetylene torch.
the blades look great! Thanks for the video; I enjoyed it much.
I always enjoy your video. But i really really liked this. Now i can make wooden plane with traditional process
#2A. the size of the material used does not need a forge. Switch over to MAPP gas and quench form there. You need a separate inlet and outlet for an effective forge. Keep orifice size in mind too. Yours is not a bad shape, just too little gas and from the wrong direction. B. use a real coal based fire to heat in. Propane and other gasses leech carbon ( a VERY necessary component out of the steel you are using) For this matter 10xx series steel 5160 and O1 fit in the same boat in terms of forging
I find that cooling the work prevents burnt fingers, and it's a good habit as it does no harm.
For small tools, I've treated them while they're chucked in the drill press. This allows holding the torch in one hand and a magnet in the other, and placement of the oil bath in a >covered< soup can on the table . Start the drill press at a very very slow speed (if possible), and heat the part with the torch and test it with the magnet. When it's ready to dunk, put down the magnet and torch (I made a no-tip torch stand with can screwed down to a baseboard), uncover the oil can and plunge the rotating part into the bath . If your drill press can not turn at a very slow speed, just pump the quill up and down while jiggling the oil can slightly.
Good video!
awesome...learned a ton. thanx!
I see that there are lots of suggestions below, but I would also like to say really nice job on the shooting and editing of the video.
Thanks, this was one of my first videos. Come a long way since then but still working on it.
I use used motor oil. It's not a danger to put a part into the oil that's heated up above the flashpoint because we immediately dunk the part down into the oil and swirl it around. It requires that O2 get to the part for a flame to occur and that cannot happen with a submersed part. The oil will cool the part to a temperature below flash point if you leave it in long enough. For the process I use old 1 gallon rectangular metal containers that you would get paint thinner, or mineral oil or some other substances in. I cut out one side and roll over the edges so they won't be sharp and present a hand cutting danger. The container is laid on it's side and filled up with used motor oil about 2/3-3/4 full. I generally use bailing wire to hold the part I'm heating if it has a hole in it, or some vice grips or whatever. when it comes to the proper temp based on the color of the steel, I dunk it in the oil and swirl it around completely covered by the oil. Never had a single problem and have always been pleased with the results.
Actually cooling during grinding prior to heat treat was smart as you noted in your video,steel can not be hardened repeatedly. Cooling it could only be good.
So that’s how you do this. Always wondered. Currently I just do woodwork, but metal interests me. Maybe someday i’ll learn about that. Thx!
Thanks
Actual Rockwell... haven't a clue. There are many charts out there that will tell you by color but this is not the most accurate if you are looking for a specific hardness. I will say I feel from use that it's about like my Veritas Plane blades.
Yes you can go to a higher temp which will make it softer. Understand you can't reharden it w/o starting the process all over. Which is why I starting at a lower tempering temp. If it was too brittle I could go back& temper the blade to higher temp.
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Great video. How did the blades work? I bought these chisels made of sheet steel, and made hand planes from them. They worked well on soft wood, but couldn't hold an edge long on hard wood. I'm not sure what kind of steel the blades are, so I'm afraid of making softer by anything I try. An I hate to make all new planes for a better steel.
Oh, this was O1 steel, I've been told its designed to be quenched specifically in oil.
you could heat over a stove till its red, quench it in motor oil. temper in a stove.
The process of softening steel is called ANNEALING. Tempering the steel is done after hardening in order to disperse the carbon atoms evenly.
I misspoke but the idea was conveyed.
I chose oil for tempering bc of better temp control, ovens vary, and ability to cool down slowly.
wortheffort I'm sorry my friend that's just the lazy mans way of tempering it and it also undoes some of your work that you did early maybe not in your case as they was tiny blades but tempering in a pot of oil is the lazy mans way not to mention the dangerous way
I totally respect all of your wood working abilitys but steel work and hardening not so much but it was still very entertaining to watch 👍❤️
So you still get a 👍 and I'm so glad you didn't hurt yourself because doing it like that you so could have
Actually the carbon did NOT come out of the steel. It was just oxidized and maybe some carbon from the propane. Also why did you build that furnace? You didn't use it as one. (You should have) Also the hottest part of the flame is not at the tip, but at the tip of the inner flame.
+Felix Kuhnert It was explained to me by a very good blacksmith that it was the carbon coming out so don't stay at that stage long if you want the final edge strong because it was coming out at the point you want sharp most. I was doing this on my back porch of an apartment, the bricks were more for my piece of mind of not setting the place on fire as I was just learning. Nowadays I just hold the blades in a vise and use a torch. Works fine because these aren't big blades.
what rockwell hardness do you think you ended up with after the oil temper? could you bring the oil up to a temp of 400f? Im thinking of making my own knife out of O1 steel and want to also do the hardening and tempering myself. Thanks
#3All of these mild steels need to keep as much carbon as possible.Gas firing takes it out of the first few microns of the steel, . So either use a borax flux, or even better COAL. Do not be afraid to quench in liquids that catch fire. If you want a very aggressive quench try very salty cool water. For the size of your project stress and draw should be minimal. However motor oil, ATF, and other petrol have a bit of carbon to begin with and help the surface factor much better than a vegetable oil
4:20 cooling is needed if you burn the steel it will chip an create even more work.....plus its a good habit....dont fight it.
For the forge can I use butane or propane? What is the difference between both?
I am from Argentina and in my country the butane is easier to get
As long as you can get the metal hot enough I don't think it matters but I'm not an expert in this field. I used butane in the video and on all the bits I do.
Thank you so much! here is impossible to purchase decent tools, for this reason i'm trying to make them. Wonderful job with the tutorials is helping me so much to improve my work and my english! I hope we continue in contact!
Chip Foose?
next time normalize the blade by heating to non magnetic then let it cool to black . do this 3 times then heat and quench and place in preheated oven at 350 for 1 hr let air cool and check for hardness
What is the purpose of it?
refining the grain structure
of the steel
a standard oven would work better for tempering then that pot of oil on the stove top
Oil cooled?
+BingoSunNoon it's quenched in oil instead of water.
As I understand it - you did a few things here.
1) Hardened the first inch or so of the steel.
2) Tempered the steel. (You called it annealing - but annealing is to weaken)
3) Sharpened the steel.
A few humble suggestions:
a) Sharpen the steel to within a 32nd or so of your final shape before heat treating. This will save time as the steel is soft.
b) Harden then temper in an oven. You will have no problem holding that to 350.
c) Then sharpen keeping the blade cool.
Good luck.
What are you doing with that spaz bracelet when it's done? Not throwin' it are ya?
I'll 'ave it if ya don't wan' it...
chip foose lookalike!!!
+mark 123 agree lol
hey, cool vid, but cooling while sharpning is not a bad idea, because if the blades heat up they might burn, yes steel burns! and it will let you with burnt steel in your cutting edge wich will imedeat break off and form like cracks and holes;
see ya!
ray
If you keep tempering it you will end up back at the annealed state or Soft state. I can send you any heat treat spec sheets for any material if you need it.
THATLAZYMACHINIST has some great heat treatment instructional videos.
Tempering temps depend on the type of steel and the final hardness desired. Your supplier should be able to provide the heat treatment tables for the stock you buy. If not, they're available online. Some steels, e.g. D2, have very critical hardening and tempering procedures. You can't just "wing it" with any given tool steel.
7 years on in a tool I use regularly. Holds an edge well, sharpens easily. "Winging it" based on color and magnitization has been how they've done this for centuries.And I said in video and description this was 01, likely the simplest of tool steels there is.
Anybody can get lucky once. Do you have any idea what the Rockwell hardness is?
I’ve done hundreds of blades since this time. As long as it’s hard enough to hold an edge, soft enough to sharpen, doesn’t break at edge the Rockwell number doesn’t matter. Or are you saying it’s useless unless it’s within a certain tenth of an abstract number.
@@KenPWV Care to edit again without the personal attack? I'll leave it if ya do that.
always take the valve off, it will leak and drain the tank !!!!!! my first time using mine was the last time i used that tank !!!!!!! bummer !!!
+guuba gaaba good tip. mine hasn't leaked yet as still using the same canister years later.
those bricks were completely unnessecary for what you're doing
04.20 I'm gonna set it on fire!!!!!!!!!!!
lol most of this was totally unnecessary especially the bricks lol!!
+patman0250 End result worked as desired.
So much bad info out here. You really should do a bit more research before posting videos like this buddy.
tehemton without specifying what’s wrong this is just a drive by comment. End result has been in a tool that has been used in hundreds of projects with no issues.