This is a really good way to do a field-service calibration. Just remember, key blanks are stamped out on the edges, so no two blanks are exactly the same width. This method also only calibrates Depth, not spacing. If you need to do a full recalibration (ie; taken an entire carriage off), definitely worth cutting a sample key to code through an electronic machine. This will allow you to scale actual depth of cut vs original, and actual spacing of cut vs shoulder gauge. The calibration showed here should be done one a fortnight or so, just to confirm. Thanks for the videos sir!
My thoughts exactly. The radius cut on the bottom of the key will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. I worked as a locksmith for 20 years. I was taught by a senior tech the first time I went to calibrate a machine. Pit is a Master Locksmith. He should me how to get a machine to put out 12 generations of duplication before they started to catch. He always insisted that you start with a original Schlage cylinder with original manufactured keys and all duplicates with originals. It can really make a difference on the calibration of your machine.
The other variables not mentioned are a tiny sliver of brass in the jaws, human error of clamping the key blank, and worn carriage bushings. Professional locksmiths strive for perfection!
This is a really good way to do a field-service calibration.
Just remember, key blanks are stamped out on the edges, so no two blanks are exactly the same width. This method also only calibrates Depth, not spacing.
If you need to do a full recalibration (ie; taken an entire carriage off), definitely worth cutting a sample key to code through an electronic machine. This will allow you to scale actual depth of cut vs original, and actual spacing of cut vs shoulder gauge.
The calibration showed here should be done one a fortnight or so, just to confirm. Thanks for the videos sir!
My thoughts exactly. The radius cut on the bottom of the key will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. I worked as a locksmith for 20 years. I was taught by a senior tech the first time I went to calibrate a machine. Pit is a Master Locksmith. He should me how to get a machine to put out 12 generations of duplication before they started to catch. He always insisted that you start with a original Schlage cylinder with original manufactured keys and all duplicates with originals. It can really make a difference on the calibration of your machine.
Nice video. Always surprises me how many "locksmiths" have no basic knowledge of mechanics or how these things work. It's all common sense...
Im with ya. Locksmiths are some of the smartest ppl and dumbest
Thank you, very informative 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Jareth, like I said, you should write articles for Locksmith Ledger!
Great video and method for calibrating
Kevin Boyles ty sir
The other variables not mentioned are a tiny sliver of brass in the jaws, human error of clamping the key blank, and worn carriage bushings. Professional locksmiths strive for perfection!
Thanks, very informative
KW1 doesn't require the flip-gauge for shoulder alignment. Just slide it in until it stops using the bottom shoulder.
Price kya hai
It's not an RY bro it is a RYTAN!
Whatever the hell you’re talking about, I’m not interested.
That’s what he said Robert Rytan….. model Ry200 what the frick you talking about.