This was a pleasure to watch. Kudos to you, Jack, you are a great presenter and interviewer. I am in the process of getting my first bespoke suit made by Henry Poole, and I went ahead and made a trip to London just to make it extra special.
Matthew is so right, there aren't many of us tailors who cut and make left these days, it's a real shame, I'm proud to be one of the few. What an interesting chat, couldn't agree more with all he says. Lovely video.
It's a shame because knowledge is lost. I know there's others who can do different parts of the job but experience and knowledge of the whole is being lost.
@@angelmessenger8240 When I was training tailors of the previous generation were being buried with their books and tools, like Hells Angels are buried with their Harley's. My whole purpose in tailoring is to keep the old skills alive. I can make it completely by machine but I feel it is my responsibility to keep the old skills alive.
I was an apprentice Taylor when I left school. In those days ready made started taking over in Birmingham and many Taylor’s including the one I worked for closed down. I always regret not being able to find another Taylor’s to go too. But forty years later I’m still interested in fashion, But never had the luxury of owning my own Taylor made suit.
Very nice and conversation! I am from Greece and I came to London every 3 months just for fittings. All my life wear sweatpants, my journey starts from Henry Poole, Huntsman and Bespoke John Lobb.
Marvelous interview, definitely a wealth of knowledge, I appreciate gaining so much knowledge on how to procure and get a bespoke suit made thanks for sharing!
I just loved the really down to earth "I mean, it IS expensive" line on the bespoke subject. I've sometimes noticed that some people completely lose the notion of what they can and can't afford, especially with the rise of internet personalities showing a certain kind of life that they "need" to have.
I absolutely loved the opening scene, especially with the background music! It might be worth considering a slightly longer intro to showcase the stores, clothing, and outfits in more detail. Just a friendly suggestion!
My only connection to the clothing trade was when, as a young man, I worked for Arrow Shirts under contract with Carson Pirie Scott (a Chicago-based upscale retailer). That was before I committed to a career in law enforcement. Now in retirement I am more appreciative as a consumer of the levels of quality/workmanship and pricing. I'll never have occasion to visit Savile Row, let alone the budget to buy bespoke, but I am OK with simply learning more and more about this very particular craft!
Generally speaking in the Chicago area - MTM is $600-$1500, typically made overseas. Bespoke is $3000-$5000 made in the USA. At least two of the shops post their prices for these options. I need MTM because I can't wear OTR or have it tailored reasonably to fit me. Like anything - its what you can afford and what you need.
*IM A BESPOKE TAILOR* of men's historical suits 1890 to 1940 - I charge between €3,000 and €5,000 That is entirely handmade by myself except the buttons. The waistbands the shoulder pads are all made as they were historically, nothing is bought in. It takes about 120 to 200 hours to make a suit but on the flip side I'm not paying staff, premises, advertising or VAT... [EDIT: One of my jackets [coat] should last 50 years of regular wear, most of the world goes into making it last]
Because I don't wear a suit often, I have a few made to measure suits from Hockerty, i'd rather spend more money for quality tailored Sports jackets (like a Tweed Blazer from Mason & Sons and a Navy Blazer from Gieves & Hawkes paired odd trousers like Chinos, flannel, wool trousers or even dark jeans.
You're totally right. Very low end tailoring like Hockerty is no good. Get one good suit or sports jacket if you don't wear tailoring a lot and that will be far better.
I enjoyed this but please use a tripod of gamble for profile shots.. the camera constantly shaking/moving isn't great. Thanks I'd love to see a video around Indo-British attire.. sherwanis, nehru, etc
You're supporting someone and their family while they do work just for you. They have the same bills and expenses you do. The cost aren't being spread out over an entire company, it's concentrated down to one or two people. BUT! You get to play designer for a day and create a one of a kind suite.
Higher cost at the outset, but possibly NOT higher cost per wear, that is per use. A bespoke suit is likely to be with you a very long time, if you take care of it.
Wonderful interview and truly enjoy these conversations. (A note on production though, the camera angle on the interviewer being frame left is bizarre and a bit off putting. It draws the eye into “nothing” instead of toward the subject.)
Glad to hear you enjoyed it! Thanks for the feedback - lots to learn when you're shooting "on-the-road", and we have to be adaptable. Stay tuned for some similar videos where you'll hopefully see continued improvement!
Its a wonderful video - excellently presented and I thoroughly enjoyed it. But he never answered the question on cost to the client. I understand everything is custom and variable, but a ballpark amount should be given. Is it $3,000 or $15,000. What is an average beginning suit? And the average turn around time? Jack asked the right questions - but the answers seemed unnecessarily vague.
Jack here - glad to hear you enjoyed it. Ultimately, we didn't want to mention a hard number for someone to find this video at a later point if that value had then changed. The principles of the conversation remain the same, but the starting price may differ - not just in time, but also between different tailors, etc.
@@gentlemansgazette Hi Jack - I'm impressed that you answer these comments personally. I always enjoy your videos and think that they, along with Preston's are the best on the channel. I understand custom work, and I understand not trying to be locked into a set price. I also understand the marketing (somewhat) of videos for UA-cam. But when you TITLE a video "The TRUE Cost of Bespoke Tailoring" and then you don't mention the cost, something seems a little bit disingenuous. Anyways - keep up the great work!
@@dandiehm8414 Hopefully, as a fan of the Gentleman's Gazette, you know we never want to be disingenuous and always treat our viewers with respect. It's with that mindset that stating "$X is the true cost of bespoke" would be equally misleading, as there are many tailors out there with a different price-point. Instead, we wanted to have an honest conversation with a tailor about what goes into bespoke tailoring, and how that factors into the overall cost. If you or anyone else would like to reach out to Matthew (or any other tailors) to understand what their current prices are, I'm sure they'd welcome the inquiry 🙂 - Jack
@@gentlemansgazette Thanks again for the kind response, Jack. I don't think the Gentleman's Gazette is ever intentionally disingenuous. But when the TITLE of the video says "TRUE Cost" (your capitialization, not mine) the viewers expected some mention of the cost. Most of us will never be able to afford a Bespoke Suit, but it would be nice to know the "approximate" cost. Perhaps a better title would have been "Why The Cost Of A Bespoke Suit Is So High". I am not angry - again, I quite enjoyed the video. I was just hoping your guest would have said something along the lines of "For a two piece suit of a moderate priced fabric in 2024 from our shop, the cost would be 'about $X.XX' and take about 'X' number of days to complete."
Also, travel cost can be huge. We met a tailor who had completed over 17 fittings with one client. If you live locally, that's a negligible cost, if you live in the US, that will cost you more than the suit itself. At the end of the day these are also costs borne by the customer, but they can vary greatly
Mr. Hackett has been doing just that! He recently showed it off on social media, but you can see more here: www.gentlemansgazette.com/jeremy-hackett-store-tour-interview/?
Richard Anderson at 13 Savile Row did a suit out of Japanese denim. Not for me but it can be done with taste and artfullness. Check out his website for other examples of non-traditional fabrics, colors, and patterns.
Dear friends, I have a question. I am new to vintage shopping and don't quite have a lot of experience with good suits and fabrics. I came across this vintage tuxedo in a store, it must have been made in the 50s if I remember correctly, and it fit me well enough, and the fabric was quite heavy. However, the fabric felt very stiff, hard and a bit rough to the hand. Does anyone know if this is common, and if that's a problem? And by what could it be caused? Thank you in advance.
If it is a 50's dinner suit, then it would most likely have been made in Barathea wool. The finishing of fabrics was different to what we see nowadays, and a sturdier feel & finish was preferred back then in order to present clean lines and less wrinkling. These days, manufacturers finish fabrics to be much lighter and softer than they used to be. Find out more here: www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/black-tie-tuxedo-history/postwar-tuxedos-black-tie/?
It is too easy to go and see a tailor who is clearly not business savvy and ask him about his costs and processes. Try to go to Kiton with the same questions and they will slam the door on you.
As a CEO, I can afford a closet full of bespoke suits. But I can’t afford the time it takes to create them. The closest city is an hour and half drive to visit a traveling tailor. I can’t take a half day off to visit a tailor. It could take 9 months from start to finish. Not an easy process.
Bespoke tailors, especially the British ones, are terrible at marketing themselves. 1) As soon as you start talking about price, it is a race to the bottom. 2) If you have to explain your pricing, it means your product/story can't speak for itself...
Saville Row tailors have a client list longer then anything you can fathom. They don’t need to market themselves - they don’t need to spend 75% of the garment cost on marketing
@@hammalamiri12for now they do, but that is because people have been reintroduced to tailoring. There are still closures every once in a while. A couple of years back for example the outlook was very grim, nowadays it seems fine on the row. In the Italian shops though they are complaining heavily. The customers are there but the tailors are dying out. And the few young tailors that do emerge want to open their own shops and not work as employed tailors for big shops.
More houses on Savile Row have introduced ready-to-wear lines as an entry point for customers, and these ranges are quite often showcased quite a bit. So, in a way, this is a good form of marketing. Word of mouth may be the "good old fashioned method", but in the internet age there are also many great tailors posting their work on social media as well
@@gentlemansgazette I think even the row companies are adapting. I think one of the row tailors in a Kirby Allison video said that a couple of years back it would have been unthinkable to have journalists inside their shops. Nowadays they are on social media, do interviews and show off their work even with influencers like Kirby giving them a spotlight. So while I do agree that they still have space to improve, I think they are on the right path and their dusty image is slowly but surely fading.
Why in the 21st century are we still obsessed with bespoke clothing from 19th century? It seems everyone obsessed with this still wants to conform to a large extent despite being bespoke with a view to distinguishing themselves. If the objective is to stand out as a gentlemen of sartorial elegance then why not go back to the other centuries. Get yourself some breeches and silk stockings. A tricorne hat and a frilly shirt. Codpiece and Cape.
This was a pleasure to watch. Kudos to you, Jack, you are a great presenter and interviewer.
I am in the process of getting my first bespoke suit made by Henry Poole, and I went ahead and made a trip to London just to make it extra special.
Jack here - thank you! Tell us more about your Henry Poole commission, if you're happy to share?
@OP. Who’s your cutter? Mine is Joe Holyoak.
@ Tristan
He’s great. No pretense, all knowledge and charm.
Agreed. Just the facts yet also smooth like butter.
O.C. represent! So proud that a local made it to the top. 🔥
Matthew is so right, there aren't many of us tailors who cut and make left these days, it's a real shame, I'm proud to be one of the few. What an interesting chat, couldn't agree more with all he says. Lovely video.
Thank you for your support, Thom - great to hear you're one of the few who still cut & make! - Jack
It's a shame because knowledge is lost. I know there's others who can do different parts of the job but experience and knowledge of the whole is being lost.
@@angelmessenger8240 When I was training tailors of the previous generation were being buried with their books and tools, like Hells Angels are buried with their Harley's. My whole purpose in tailoring is to keep the old skills alive. I can make it completely by machine but I feel it is my responsibility to keep the old skills alive.
@@gentlemansgazette I enjoy your videos, Jack.
I was an apprentice Taylor when I left school. In those days ready made started taking over in Birmingham and many Taylor’s including the one I worked for closed down. I always regret not being able to find another Taylor’s to go too.
But forty years later I’m still interested in fashion, But never had the luxury of owning my own Taylor made suit.
When I get super minted I will work hard to support this industry buy ordering lots of fine suits.
This interview is gold thanks for posting.
Awesome! First five suits you'd get made? 🤔
Great stuff! Fine interview. Informative and insightful.
Spellbinding and deeply fascinating insight into a world most of us barely know of.
I've learned so much out of this interview.
Thank you, much appreciated.
This is one of the best episode for me
Very nice and conversation! I am from Greece and I came to London every 3 months just for fittings. All my life wear sweatpants, my journey starts from Henry Poole, Huntsman and Bespoke John Lobb.
Marvelous interview, definitely a wealth of knowledge, I appreciate gaining so much knowledge on how to procure and get a bespoke suit made thanks for sharing!
Glad to hear you enjoyed it! - Jack
So, I really, really enjoyed this. I also think it’s great you featured an independent maker.
Thank you! Matthew is such a great craftsman - we simply couldn't resist making this video with him
Very informative video! Well, articulated!
I just loved the really down to earth "I mean, it IS expensive" line on the bespoke subject. I've sometimes noticed that some people completely lose the notion of what they can and can't afford, especially with the rise of internet personalities showing a certain kind of life that they "need" to have.
I absolutely loved the opening scene, especially with the background music! It might be worth considering a slightly longer intro to showcase the stores, clothing, and outfits in more detail. Just a friendly suggestion!
Bespoke fashions are works of art.
Wonderful episode. Thank you!
So pleased to hear you enjoyed it!
Speciality tailor shops in Bangkok can do bespoke suites of top quality Italian wool for $600 and it will be ready within 10 days.
My only connection to the clothing trade was when, as a young man, I worked for Arrow Shirts under contract with Carson Pirie Scott (a Chicago-based upscale retailer). That was before I committed to a career in law enforcement. Now in retirement I am more appreciative as a consumer of the levels of quality/workmanship and pricing. I'll never have occasion to visit Savile Row, let alone the budget to buy bespoke, but I am OK with simply learning more and more about this very particular craft!
How interesting, thank you for sharing! Glad to hear you're getting enjoyment from the videos 🙂
EXCELENTE VIDEO.... FELICITACIONES POR SU TRABAJO Y COMPARTIRLO CON NOSOTROS..., EXITOS... SALUDOS DESDE BOGOTA-COLOMBIA.
Love his seersucker suit 👌🏼
Generally speaking in the Chicago area - MTM is $600-$1500, typically made overseas. Bespoke is $3000-$5000 made in the USA. At least two of the shops post their prices for these options. I need MTM because I can't wear OTR or have it tailored reasonably to fit me. Like anything - its what you can afford and what you need.
Too bad bespoke isn’t just a little more reasonable in the US.
*IM A BESPOKE TAILOR* of men's historical suits 1890 to 1940 - I charge between €3,000 and €5,000
That is entirely handmade by myself except the buttons. The waistbands the shoulder pads are all made as they were historically, nothing is bought in. It takes about 120 to 200 hours to make a suit but on the flip side I'm not paying staff, premises, advertising or VAT... [EDIT: One of my jackets [coat] should last 50 years of regular wear, most of the world goes into making it last]
So, if you were based in London (as Matthew is), what do you estimate the cost of one of your bespoke suits to be?
Do you have any website or social media page?
@@radu2703 I have a VERY bad Instagram page - Ill give the name in a 2nd comment as it will get deleted
@@radu2703 gordonshistoricaltailoring
@@radu2703 I tried to give you them but they were deleted - sorry
Because I don't wear a suit often, I have a few made to measure suits from Hockerty, i'd rather spend more money for quality tailored Sports jackets (like a Tweed Blazer from Mason & Sons and a Navy Blazer from Gieves & Hawkes paired odd trousers like Chinos, flannel, wool trousers or even dark jeans.
A good point - as with all things relating to style, there's an element of subjectivity to your needs and tastes, too
This is probably more practical, but sometimes it's nice to have a tweed suit. It's more of a luxury
You're totally right. Very low end tailoring like Hockerty is no good. Get one good suit or sports jacket if you don't wear tailoring a lot and that will be far better.
I enjoyed this but please use a tripod of gamble for profile shots.. the camera constantly shaking/moving isn't great. Thanks
I'd love to see a video around Indo-British attire.. sherwanis, nehru, etc
Exactly why Ralph Lauren Purple Label is a clear winner. 12/10 🥂
Jack here - I'm not sure I understand, are you saying you prefer ready-to-wear Purple Label over bespoke?
You're supporting someone and their family while they do work just for you. They have the same bills and expenses you do. The cost aren't being spread out over an entire company, it's concentrated down to one or two people. BUT! You get to play designer for a day and create a one of a kind suite.
Southern Italy here, bespoke with Italian fabric is 1400-2000.
Higher cost at the outset, but possibly NOT higher cost per wear, that is per use. A bespoke suit is likely to be with you a very long time, if you take care of it.
25:40 Thoughts on AskOkey?
Спасибо
If I had the means I would have a bespoke suit tailored for me. It beats getting an off the rack suit.
Wonderful interview and truly enjoy these conversations.
(A note on production though, the camera angle on the interviewer being frame left is bizarre and a bit off putting. It draws the eye into “nothing” instead of toward the subject.)
Glad to hear you enjoyed it! Thanks for the feedback - lots to learn when you're shooting "on-the-road", and we have to be adaptable. Stay tuned for some similar videos where you'll hopefully see continued improvement!
When will the end of the giveaway be announced?
Stay tuned for the announcement this week
Is the synch off a bit?
Its a wonderful video - excellently presented and I thoroughly enjoyed it. But he never answered the question on cost to the client. I understand everything is custom and variable, but a ballpark amount should be given. Is it $3,000 or $15,000. What is an average beginning suit? And the average turn around time? Jack asked the right questions - but the answers seemed unnecessarily vague.
Jack here - glad to hear you enjoyed it. Ultimately, we didn't want to mention a hard number for someone to find this video at a later point if that value had then changed. The principles of the conversation remain the same, but the starting price may differ - not just in time, but also between different tailors, etc.
@@gentlemansgazette Hi Jack - I'm impressed that you answer these comments personally. I always enjoy your videos and think that they, along with Preston's are the best on the channel. I understand custom work, and I understand not trying to be locked into a set price. I also understand the marketing (somewhat) of videos for UA-cam. But when you TITLE a video "The TRUE Cost of Bespoke Tailoring" and then you don't mention the cost, something seems a little bit disingenuous. Anyways - keep up the great work!
@@dandiehm8414 Hopefully, as a fan of the Gentleman's Gazette, you know we never want to be disingenuous and always treat our viewers with respect. It's with that mindset that stating "$X is the true cost of bespoke" would be equally misleading, as there are many tailors out there with a different price-point. Instead, we wanted to have an honest conversation with a tailor about what goes into bespoke tailoring, and how that factors into the overall cost. If you or anyone else would like to reach out to Matthew (or any other tailors) to understand what their current prices are, I'm sure they'd welcome the inquiry 🙂 - Jack
@@gentlemansgazette Thanks again for the kind response, Jack. I don't think the Gentleman's Gazette is ever intentionally disingenuous. But when the TITLE of the video says "TRUE Cost" (your capitialization, not mine) the viewers expected some mention of the cost. Most of us will never be able to afford a Bespoke Suit, but it would be nice to know the "approximate" cost. Perhaps a better title would have been "Why The Cost Of A Bespoke Suit Is So High". I am not angry - again, I quite enjoyed the video. I was just hoping your guest would have said something along the lines of "For a two piece suit of a moderate priced fabric in 2024 from our shop, the cost would be 'about $X.XX' and take about 'X' number of days to complete."
Also, travel cost can be huge. We met a tailor who had completed over 17 fittings with one client. If you live locally, that's a negligible cost, if you live in the US, that will cost you more than the suit itself. At the end of the day these are also costs borne by the customer, but they can vary greatly
When will he be back in Texas? What cities?
Reach out to Matthew directly to find out more (links in the video description!)
My wildest dream is to have a suit made at every tailor shop on Savile Row😂
What is your opinion of making suits out of denim? I know. A jeans like suit. Could this work? After all, denim is a very sturdy material?
Mr. Hackett has been doing just that! He recently showed it off on social media, but you can see more here: www.gentlemansgazette.com/jeremy-hackett-store-tour-interview/?
Richard Anderson at 13 Savile Row did a suit out of Japanese denim. Not for me but it can be done with taste and artfullness. Check out his website for other examples of non-traditional fabrics, colors, and patterns.
Dear friends, I have a question. I am new to vintage shopping and don't quite have a lot of experience with good suits and fabrics. I came across this vintage tuxedo in a store, it must have been made in the 50s if I remember correctly, and it fit me well enough, and the fabric was quite heavy. However, the fabric felt very stiff, hard and a bit rough to the hand. Does anyone know if this is common, and if that's a problem? And by what could it be caused?
Thank you in advance.
If it is a 50's dinner suit, then it would most likely have been made in Barathea wool. The finishing of fabrics was different to what we see nowadays, and a sturdier feel & finish was preferred back then in order to present clean lines and less wrinkling. These days, manufacturers finish fabrics to be much lighter and softer than they used to be. Find out more here: www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/black-tie-tuxedo-history/postwar-tuxedos-black-tie/?
what is a skeleton suit?
It is too easy to go and see a tailor who is clearly not business savvy and ask him about his costs and processes. Try to go to Kiton with the same questions and they will slam the door on you.
As a CEO, I can afford a closet full of bespoke suits. But I can’t afford the time it takes to create them. The closest city is an hour and half drive to visit a traveling tailor. I can’t take a half day off to visit a tailor. It could take 9 months from start to finish. Not an easy process.
Tommy Nutter: British Zoot
Doing the interview in front of the fridge is certainly a choice.
Indeed! It's the choice of a great space in the heart of London where we're welcomed by the team at Arterton 😉
Didn’t John wick have suits made of bullet proof cloth? 😂
Bespoke tailors, especially the British ones, are terrible at marketing themselves. 1) As soon as you start talking about price, it is a race to the bottom. 2) If you have to explain your pricing, it means your product/story can't speak for itself...
Some people may have budgets to consider
Saville Row tailors have a client list longer then anything you can fathom. They don’t need to market themselves - they don’t need to spend 75% of the garment cost on marketing
@@hammalamiri12for now they do, but that is because people have been reintroduced to tailoring. There are still closures every once in a while. A couple of years back for example the outlook was very grim, nowadays it seems fine on the row. In the Italian shops though they are complaining heavily. The customers are there but the tailors are dying out. And the few young tailors that do emerge want to open their own shops and not work as employed tailors for big shops.
More houses on Savile Row have introduced ready-to-wear lines as an entry point for customers, and these ranges are quite often showcased quite a bit. So, in a way, this is a good form of marketing. Word of mouth may be the "good old fashioned method", but in the internet age there are also many great tailors posting their work on social media as well
@@gentlemansgazette I think even the row companies are adapting. I think one of the row tailors in a Kirby Allison video said that a couple of years back it would have been unthinkable to have journalists inside their shops. Nowadays they are on social media, do interviews and show off their work even with influencers like Kirby giving them a spotlight. So while I do agree that they still have space to improve, I think they are on the right path and their dusty image is slowly but surely fading.
Thanks Lords
It is amazing this guy has time to sleep?
Right?! There's so much passion that's poured into the craft of tailoring
First 🎉
Why in the 21st century are we still obsessed with bespoke clothing from 19th century? It seems everyone obsessed with this still wants to conform to a large extent despite being bespoke with a view to distinguishing themselves. If the objective is to stand out as a gentlemen of sartorial elegance then why not go back to the other centuries. Get yourself some breeches and silk stockings. A tricorne hat and a frilly shirt. Codpiece and Cape.
What’s the modern alternative that you propose? Nike sneakers yankee baseball cap and hoodie?