🔥IFSC Women Lead Final Innsbruck 2024🔥
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
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Here is the amazing IFSC Lead Women Finals World Cup Innsbruck 2024.
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MATTEA POTZI 02:08
ANASTASIA SANDERS 05:40
YUETONG ZHANG 10:33
CHAEHYUN SEO 14:43
ALEKSANDRA TOTKOVA 20:20
JESSICA PILZ 24:20
AI MORI 28:07
JANJA GARNBRET 35:13
![[Interview] Akiyo Noguchi Talks Climbing with Next Generational Ace Ai Mori !](/img/n.gif)
I can watch Ai Mori's climb on repeat. It's so therapeutic. I started watching this sport because of her.
Ai and Janja absolutely killed it. What a banger
Ai Mori! She gave me goosebumps... incredible!
Holy shit, the kick to get the clip closer was crazy.
Hey hey no kungfu allowed on the wall! Ai: NO!
Fuck me, that double grab from Ai was so freaking cool. Had to re-watch it a few times. Absolute classic.
Ai Mori climbs so beautifully. There is a calm to her entire demeanour that is just elegant.
オリンピックを見て、この動画に行き着きました
感動しました👍
I have never seen Janja fight so hard 🤯(but she knew top or not). Ai is so amazing.
when Ai and Janja are competing, it's always fire !
AI! So glad to see her! And so damn close! 😄
Spoiler alert.
@@JippaJ Assumption, the mother of all screw ups. Could mean anything 🤭
@@pirateradioFPV You're making it worse.
@@JippaJ And that's still a YOU problem. Enjoy.
@@pirateradioFPV how social of you
Its always so amazing watching ai mori climb. She is so cool. ❤
I bet a ton of people underestimate Ai, so glad she kicks ass every time
Idk why so many ai fans (I'm an ai fan) like to pretend she's victimised or disliked. No one underestimates Ai mate, everyone know's she's good. From the commentators to the fans
@@jonathantan5549 90% of the comments about her starts with "she is so small BUT..." this is underestimating since this means they think she is not supposed to be that great with the height she has.
totally right.
Everyone knows she's a beast lol. What you on about :D I remember when Akiyo hosted a men's and women's pair comp last year in Japan and during drawings the commentators were like "God (they actually used Kami-sama when talking about Ai) hasn't been chosen yet, wonder who the lucky boy will be" (spoiler, ofc her team (Ai/Dohi keita won)). She is regarded as being on a different level in Japan and I never heard an international commentator not gushing about her lead climbing.
@@zsoltbartus169 "She is so small, BUT she is also one of the greatest in lead" Oh man, that what an underestimation
The podium is magnificent: Seo Chaehyun, Ai Mori and Janja Garnbret. Those women are monsters in lead climbing, I can't believe human beings with such skills are real. I loved the competition 💜✧\(>o
Watching Ai is always a treat ! I just can’t with this woman ! While everyone struggled she made it seem so easy ! I love her so much
Ai Mori is a goddess!!!
What an incredible final. Excellent performances.
Ai climbed the best, looked the best. It's just Janja's beast power that again pulled her through to next gold.
The should add weight to Ai to make it fair.
Also lot heavier than Ai so there is no "just beast power", you can see women with even bigger muscles who struggle a lot.
Janja is just on another league, and i'm happy Ai is there to sometimes compete in the same league, makes everything more interesting to watch.
Have to say i preferred the climbing of Ai on this route :)
Not just physical strength, also the power of will and flawless time management. AI Mori might have "looked the best" on this particular wall, as you say, because she weighs approx. 2/3 of what the others weigh. But Janja Gernbret just has no weakness.
So happy to see Ai again!!! Excited for the Olympics!!
Excuse my ignorance, but why did Al Mori get silver if she was faster, -17" ?
I'm new to this sport. Can sb pls explain to me why Mori is placed 2nd while she finished the route faster than Janja?
Because Janja qualified to finals in the first place. I am fairly new to watching climbing too but what I noticed is finalists compete in finals in reverse order they qualify which means Janja qaulified first then Ai second then Jessica third etc. Therefore even Janja and Ai toped the route Janja won because her qualifed place is better than Ai which is logical because her overall performance is better during semi-finals and finals. As I said I am new too but I am pretty sure about what i said because Akiyo Noguchi won bronze medal in Tokyo olimypic with same situation. Akiyo Noguchi and Aleksandra Miroslaw had same points as 64.00 at the end of olimypic competition but Akiyo won the medal because of her qualification order.
my point again to fire the camera man :-) some ridiculous closeups at times where you want to see a full shot of a tricky move rather than miss it because you're looking at their shoe
You mean the person deciding which shoots to go for. They have multiple cameramen but they choose for these ridiculous close ups time and time again.
I swear its like any time something interesting happens they switch to a closeup of a foothold and miss it, at this point id rather they just keep the main view the whole time because the closeups are always at critical points anyways.
@@PelleKuipers definitely agree! i correct myself :)
it's the director but I agree, Innsbruck has a history of overhyped broadcast teams fucking it up. whatever gave those guys the idea that these shitty closeups are what the people want?!
Was waiting for your upload! Thanks
Garnbret is stronger and no doubt has longer reach and experience but Mori wins your heart.
The way Ai kicked the quickdraw to get that high clip was actually insane
Mori Ai is my favourite climber for sure. I can't wait to see how far her potential goes.
Estas olimpiadas he conocido más de cerca está disciplina que me ha cautivado y mantenido expectante. Felicitaciones a las y los competidores. Congratulaciones.
I love Janja, she is incredible. However, Ai is so great too.
both of them are insanely good
Ai Mori is the real winner here!
森秋彩は日本の忍者ガール。
Ai is a beast
33:30ここからやばすぎる
あいちゃん、すごい！
Hamish is such an insightful commentator!
33:33 ai kick 🤩
Amazing comp
完登カッコイイ！
Ai pushes Janja to geater heights. Without great competitors a champion is nothing.
What is the count back?
Ai and janja had the same score at the final and at the semi final
Qualis
it's rough when quali score matters
@@S3IIL3CT It is, because technically the finals are supposed to be more difficult, so logically the weight of the finals on the scoring should be higher than the qualifiers is. At the same time I do understand that the scoring is based on overall quality and I can't fault the judges at all for rewarding also the consistency. Both climbers brought the heat and I applaud them for that 🔥😊
@@pirateradioFPV Do I remember correctly that when more athletes topped out the results came down to who topped the fastest?
Yes that's what I remember from a few years ago when several climbers topped through quails and semis @@dejffjed
Ai is just amazing, she manages to surprise me every time I watch her climb
Same!
Aiちゃんの柔軟性は狂っています
Why doesn't Anastasia have a picture @ 0:13 for the comp climbers lol
This character hasn't been unlocked yet 👤👤👤
i think she just joined the adult circuit recently (16 this year). IFSC probably been busy with olympic qualifications to upload a photo
Well, it's may be another stupid move same as not showing weight info.
Magical (and heart-pounding) to watch Ai climb!
Janja is the best female athlete in the world, in all sports at the moment.
She is so dominant and consistent! A true climbing genius.
First ChatGPT, now Mori. Ai is getting more advanced by the second.
森は本当に楽しそうに登ってるね。
Ai is best!
Love ai‘s climbing
Those cheetah volumes are really confusing and the camera man is not helping.
I wonder if better time is a better tie breaker when there are 2 or more tops. Similar to boulder where its the number of tries that tie breaks.
i think rewarding the climber who had a better comp as a whole is better in case of ties. imagine you’re the only one to top every route in the competition, but the finals are way too easy and everyone tops it but you topped it 1second later, it’s not fair
@@Bia-bm9gn Agree, the same can be said about bouldering though. Its too easy, everyone tops. But instead of using qualifiers to tie break, its the no. of tries in the finals. But I get it, you only do lead once. So they use all the lead routes as a gauge. I guess both seems logical. Just different ways.
I wonder if there can be some how to combine the two, weight qualifiers and time somehow to get a final score for tiebreaker. But I guess too complex then.
Ai lost, deal with it.
@@hairtoss7975 Not true. I am just happy that she topped. That was what mattered. Besides old rules was via time. So its not completely insane. I would be a happy camper if she always tops and always loses to Garnja. Hope that doesn't happen though XD
I think having ties be broken by time would lead to dangerous climbing. It would also give a big benefit to later climbers, if they know that everyone was topping they could focus more on going fast as possible.
I wish they'd ditch that ridiculously loud crappy music and djs.
When Ai reached the top, there was more than 10 seconds left. When Janja reached the top, only 5 seconds left. Why Ai didn't win the gold?
Przepisy ustalają leśne dziadki, oni nie myślą, tylko ustalają.
Przepisy ustalają leśne dziadki, oni nie myślą tylko ustalają.
33:45 森さんかわいい
Unreal final! What a cliffhanger
brilliant lead final. tremendously exciting. I secretly hoped Ai would win!
There is no need to fight over which of the two is a better lead climber. They each have distinct flavor. Imo, Janja is stronger physically, whereas Ai may be more creative and smarter. And during the recent couple of years, they seem to have more or less equal share of gold medals. We can have our favorite, but it’s impossible to decide who is the best.
Janja
If only we could make a competition with lead routes and make them both climb them to see who is better. Someone should suggest that!
Don't get me wrong, I love watching Ai climb like the next guy. She's an awesome and unique climber and is one of the best competition lead climbers out there. And I also feel frustrated for her watching her fail to establish on a reachy boulder for 4 minutes straight.
But, I have to say that it's a little ridiculous what lengths people go to to advocate for her. A boulder doesn't fit her style or physique (even though other climbers who are just 2 cm taller than her had no issues with)? The routesetters did a terrible job and it's unfair. The rules mean that she didn't win even though she topped the lead route with some time to spare? The rules should be changed.
Come on, they all know the rules and they all know the route setting style by now, and she has won gold medals under these settings in the past. You can't bend the rules just so your favorite climber gets the win - I doubt that she'd want that, either.
That's it, rant complete. Let's all enjoy the amazing performances that these athletes have to give us :)
28:08 Ai Mori
33:36 これは彼女ならではだなあ
Hamish MacArthur is just what Matt has been missing in the commentary box!
Holy cow Ai cicking the clip was funny. She is just such an inventive and creative climber.
An instant classic World Cup in my book. Janja is clearly the best comp climber of all time. How o yearn to see the setters put a ridiculously small box in a Boulder problem or mid route.
She’d still manage to smash through it somehow 😂
Lead climbing slowly turns into piling 4 boulder problems one on another vertically instead of horizontaly.
Ai is the best at lead, no doubt. Super strong
Janja is even better obviously, or she wouldn’t win first place . Unfortunately many hate on Janja because she’s just too good!
@@NemoElohemi my comment is not about Janja, but about Ai
@@Anastasia.Mochalova Exactly. I disagree with your comment.
@@NemoElohemi So, it's up to you
@@Anastasia.Mochalova Janja is better than Ai right now. She won more competitions, performed better…. Undoubtedly Ai is right behind her and her days will come too. Janja is older than her and will probably pass her crown to Ai. Maybe even in Paris. But right now, Janja is better. People get tired of somebody wining all the time. I get it. So, let’s agree to disagree. It’s democracy after all. All good to you and Ai. She’s a supreme climber and her day will come.
Amazing climbing. 🙂😊
why did janja win and not ai?
she was better at qualis
Never really liked that quali is the decider. Should be time to climb the final as tie break imo. Just like less attempts in boulder comp is considered better. Time in lead should also count over quali placement.
@@mattbeharry yeah I agree - that would make much more sense.
Ai is just amazing
Can someone explain to me why Ai didn't win? She had better time... was it the classifications?
If two or more climbers top at the finals then wins the one whose position was higher at semis. That rule may seem too cruel sometimes I admit, it should be changed to time handicap, like 10 sec for one place higher, but perhaps no-one wants to overcomplicate rule book.
@@mirekkowalski2284 thank you for the explanation, take care
@@mirekkowalski2284 if you want time to be a decisive factor there's speed climbing for that. All athletes have their own climbing style. In particular, Kim Jain is very static and slow, yet manages to reach the top or almost tops and nearly runs out of time, especially during her prime (she still has more gold medals in lead than Janja !). It's better to reward athletes who perform consistently than reward a single, faster climb.
Why did Ai lose? She had 21s left and Janja 2s? how does it work?
アイモリ、かわいい。永遠の中学生。
How did jana win when ai mori topped as well?
Can somebody explain why Janja won.
I saw the semifinals and Ai was clearly closer to the hold than Janja so I think Ai should have been first in the semifinals so consequently also first in the finals because of count back.
Is the semifinals also count back?Or are the judges blind?
How scoring works is a point is awarded based on the final hold with control then be given the + if they are able to use the hold to go to the next but falls off, regardless of who was physically closer to the hold.
and yeah, semis was also count back, both of them were awarded 48+, i believe (or thereabouts with the +), so on countback, janja 1, ai 2
Why did Ai take the second place if she was faster than Janja?
they need to fire the guys who are responsible fpr the video footage ngl... half of the time the crux part isnt on video because these idiots zoom in on unnescessary holds n stuff
Can somebody tell me why did Janja win, not Ai Mori? They both topped and Ai got it faster. I'm a bit confused. Is there another part of this competition?
When both of them tops, it goes to the results of semifinals known as count back.
I think that's unfair. The winner should be the one who is the fastest in the current round!!!
@cmdJoerg don't get me wrong. I also think that's unfair. But it seems they see the performance that it's maintaining overall the competition.
Ai is my winner here
Ai lost, deal with it.
@@hairtoss7975 she's our godess anyway
why?
When Ai reached the top, there was more than 10 seconds left. When Janja reached the top, only 5 seconds left. Why Ai didn't win the gold?
@@qidongxu7339 due to count back. it‘s a fair system because janja climbed higher in quali or semi so she‘s more fatigued and the top is slightly more difficult for her in theory
世界よ、これが忍者だ
why did janja win when they both topped?
Daaamn
Wow.
Ai mori lead no 1 in word
She's indeed the world champion in lead!
So many end at 22+ dyno.
Routesetters should do their work better. It's not bouldering at all.
Janja has a huge advantage and yet Ai manages to keep up. I'll always root for the underdog.
They should add weight to Ai to make it fair.
@@hairtoss7975🥴stop whining and dreaming they'll change the rules, just to make it all work in Ai's favor! In your opinion, that would be fair to everyone else? Height is not important in any sport ( except for basketball )but strength, technical skill etc! Should the rules also be changed in atletics - long/high jump? According to the height of the competitor? Bullshit😤!
@@evelineperko6685 I don't think you understand what you're responding to.
🤥 huge advantage in your opinion is 1or 2cm difference in height competitor? You rooting for those underrated? So, for everyone else, except Janja? 😂😂😂😂 You're just 🍏envious!
@@evelineperko6685 Shes not only tall. Compare her upper body to that of the other girls. You think its talent or smarts that is the reason for her dominance? ...be better...
Ai Mori, absolute beast
These athletes work their arses off everyday on power and endurance to be shut down by a stupid boulder coordination move on a lead route. Completely pathetic
how did janja won? like Ai made the clip when she had 15 seconds left but Janja made it when she had 5 seconds left
AI IS INSANEEEE
insane climbing
but why are the cameras so trash. the frames where u can see the whole person + holds in the same frame are good the rest ... just why
👍👍
Why ai mori is second? If janja have been slower than her?
Amazing work by the podium, such a strong women!
JANJA GARNBRET used more time(5:58) than AI MORI(5:46), Why she is gold??? Can someone explains rules?
Time does not matter, if both of them reach the top, the winner is the one, who was first in semis.
Why did Janja win? Ai Mori climbed faster than Janja did. How did Ai more get 2nd place?
If there's a draw in scores they should decide the winner on time remaining, not countback, imo.
That's just how it is. Time used to matter but they changed the rules, and I think it's better as it rewards the athlete that was most consistent in their performance.
In the 2022 Edinburgh lead world cup, Janja toped the final route in 5:40, while Ai toped with only 3 secs remaining. However, due to countback, Ai won gold because she placed 1st in semis while Janja was 2nd.
You can't just decide what the rules should be simply because you want one athlete in particular to win. I'm not throwing any shades. Janja won here just like Ai did then. She played fair by the rules.
Idk, that might encourage people to rush and lead to worse climbing as a result. It's frustrating this was decided based on qualifiers but in general I don't think it's bad to look at who was more consistent across the tournament to break a tie.
That's what speed climbing is for bro this is lead 🗿
I get the pros for the current system but it really is confusing that overall win does not only depend on final performance 😅 as if in case of soccer final tie the team with more goals in semi-finals would win@@kinetictenshi1742
come on , imagine being the absolute best in the whole comp, being the only one to top every qualis and semi routes. then finals is really easy and everyone manages to top it. you really think you should not win the comp just because you topped it a few seconds after someone else?
Anyone that can help me identify the song on 26:16 😅
Perez Cynthia Allen Daniel Rodriguez Robert
Am I the only one being bothered by the moderation? This dude who is made rating everything always annoys me but at least in the past years they would give him a guest who is also a female athlete or whatever who then sometimes stears back the conversation to what the athletes are actually doing on the wall. In this one Ill really stop watching now because of annoyance and maybe give it another go tomorrow muted 🙄
So, I guess I missed the boulder before this.. Why did Ai become second place eventhough she had more time left while getting to the top? Is it because she has a bit less points by starting?
People, just read the rules. It is not a rocket science. Thank you.
cheers bud🐽
Thank you for uploading.
Also i love the final sentance: "Ai gave her verry best and got beaten by Janja and she was tired"
Yes Ai is a great climber but Janja is just on a different level!
Different level? Janja won due to count back by one point bruh 😂
@@lguy8476 after she climbed and won a boulder final more than Ai
@@lguy8476 so? Ai can beat Janja just in countback :D There was just one comp, when Ai won without countback. But most of the time , when Janja wins, she wins. This comp is an exception.
@_kate_s Janja is a godlike climber. Saying that she's on a different level to Ai from winning by 1 point/same score due to countback when both climbed the routes and are extremely consistent at that level has to be trolling though 💀
In bouldering and other sports it's not a really a close gap yet though between Ai and Janja (although Ai can still perform well and podium), but there are still many other competitors that can keep up and I think that they also deserve some respect/credibility for their work
@@lguy8476how you said, all athletes deserve respect. Please, lead with an example ;)
How is it that Ai got second when she finished the route faster and Janja had 2 seconds left to clip? Curious I love both atheletes.
how did janja won? like Ai made the clip when she had 15 seconds left but Janja made it when she had 5 seconds left