1976 25 Hp Evinrude Outboard - Un-friggin-believable !
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Its This Old Outboard. Got the 1976 25 Hp Evinrude on the Jon Boat. Hoping to take it for a run.
Only running on One Cylinder but Firing on Both. Gas problem going to Top Cylinder and making
a PISTT PISTT Sound. Stuck Reed Valve? Carburetor? Clogged Exhaust? Timing? Weak Spark?
Fuel Pump? And to Top it Off an Unexpected Setback. Un-Frigging-Believable !
Follow the Real Life Saga One Outboard at a Time ! SUBSCRIBE TODAY !
You Never Know Whats Gonna Happen Next !
Its This Old Outboard. Resurrecting small outboard motors.
Well the troubleshooting continues. Looking forward to the next video as always
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
May have a crankcase leak. Spray fogging oil between the crankcase halves, that will show if it's sucking in alot of air which is why it's lean sneezing, Ethanol in fuel now a days eats the sealet up between the halves.
Hey. Thanks ! Appreciate it. Thanks again. Stay tuned !
Cant really hear it but I would say some kind of air leak either a compression or vacuum leak you described it as pssssss so I would think compression possibly the spark plug but could be from around the head gasket but I rather doubt that being it's not blowing water also
Kinda sounds lean the carb looked iffy and the reeds could have an issue or just an ordinary vacuum leak from any thing to check for leak once it's running spray that carb cleaner anywhere there could be a leak and if the engine loses speed or dies and there's your leak.
Hey. Thanks ! I think your on track with the air leak somewhere. Thanks again !
my pfft noise ended up being a bad head gasket on my sport twin. cleaned the carbs completley 10 times and still have problems with it starting. pulled the head off to find a blown out fire ring in the head gasket. was running like a top prior
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Low speed needle, adjust it out 1/8 turn at a time for that sneeze
Damn. I wish it was that easy Eric. But this goes a little deeper than a needle adjustment. I actually turned it out 3.5 full turns and no help. Even did a carb swap and still no go. I'm leaning towards crank shaft seal. Thats where it seems to be blowing out. Hey Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Sneezing it’s a lean sneeze! You have to adjust the air mixture screw on the carb. This is not an idle screw it’s an air screw. Should be 1 to 2.5 turns out. Go all the way in come Out 1 turn. And adjust out from there.
Hey. Thanks ! I really appreciate you watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
Screwing air screw in is more air out is less air!
Hey dude you wouldn't happen to have a electric starter bracket from a 69 to 76 for that engine?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I got one, but it's not for sale, very rare these days and very expensive. They show up on ebay every once in awhile and they're not cheap. But thats your best bet if you can't live without it, unless you can find an old parts motor on craigslist or facebook marketplace. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 oh gotcha They're terribly hard to find I'd rather get tennis elbow than pay 350 for a tin cans worth of aluminum 😅
Compression test ?
Hot and cold
Yes !
Top crank seal. Got an air leak. That's the pssst sound. Sounds like a lean sneeze bit it's not. I had one do the same thing.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Good guess but it wasn't the seal. Check out the next episode to find out! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Maybe upper crank seal causing it to run lean?
Hey. Yeah. I just got back from messing with it and eliminating possible causes. The Seal is at the top of the list now. Thanks Again ! Stay Tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I had an old Mercury 50 hp that the spring on the seal broke and it would run lean on the top cylinder and no fire until about 2000 rpm. Good luck can't wait to see the results. Could be compression also not sure if you looked at the rings through the exhaust manifold sometimes you can see inside there and push the rings to make sure they have spring tension! Good luck 👍 enjoy your adventures and always watch the commercials if that helps?
@@randyyoung9892 Hey. Yes let those ads play! Hahaha It does help ! Thanks !
It wouldn't be a normal day at "This Old Outboard" if you didn't have something else to go wrong with it right before you take it out for a test run. Enjoyed the video.
Hahaha Its the Real Life Saga ! Thanks again. Stay tuned !
Murphy's law.
Sounds like a bad coil or air is leaking through the head gasket
Hey! You're getting warmer. Check out the next episode to see what it was. Thanks for tuning in!
hey man where did you buy the start switch and kill switch?
Hey. At the Auto Parts store. Thanks !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 awesome!!! I live here in west Orlando, I watch your videos all the time!! Keep em coming
@@opd189363 Thanks
I would take the sucker off and get it in your little work hut if your carb fix didn’t help it
And go over all the simple stuff and the last thing I would check are the reeds
Did you check compression?
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Your luck is like mine! Most of it bad!!!! L.O.L.😫
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Lean. Listen to the carburetor.
Cleaned the carb. No help. Swapped the carb with a known good one. No help. Leaning towards the crank seal. Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
THIS OLD OUTBOARD you got it figured out! Nice job brotha
@@patrickbale201 THANKS!
@TOO, The Pisstt Is compression pressure venting from the crankcase. If the plug hole was stripped then that was the most likely spot. I would also check the screws/bolts & gasket around the intake, look for blackish oil anywhere around the intake area. Between the stripped spark plug hole, the loose bolts & the carb issues you probably took care of the problem. kodibass
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Glad you didnt have to pullstart this one you would be in the hospital by now,LOLLL! Put that link arm on the carburetor it makes for easier starting also by advancing the throttle when choked.If you need one Ill give you one and send it to you free...Compound problems are all part of the hobby and repair ,LOLL! I understand the frustration especially with sparkplug holes being stripped your alot calmer than I am. I sometimes curse and throw things but always comeback calmed down and fix the problem,LOLL! thats just me.....Glenn P.
Hey. I was hoping you'd show up. What link arm? I was hoping you were going to tell me whats causing the problem but I think I have it narrowed down to the top crank seal. Just got back from screwing with it and did a carb swap and a plug swap. No change ! I turned the needle out 3.5 turns and it seemed to help a little. I also thought maybe a water leak from the head gasket was killing the top cylinder? But as the battery was dead and barely turning it I saw three puffs of smoke come out from under the flywheel. I think that pretty much clinched it. ?
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Go to Marineengine.com youll see for yourself 1976 Evinrude 25HP carburetor pic. item# 73 bellcrank link arm to throttle from choke lever. S bend on choke side and snap in on the throttle plate rod you have the snap connector there but its empty,LOLLL! With that motor could be a number of things or just compound little shit,HAA which can drive you nuts just process of elimination keep at it like you always do. I have worked on 100s of outboards thru the years and never seen too many bad top crankshaft seals lowers yeah but not top as much I know they do go bad even with a new seal if it backfires it could pop thru the seals momentarily Good Luck keep us posted...Glenn P.
@@OutBoardTink62 Hey I see it. Its missing from this motor. Thanks !
Another very educational video!Your getting a workout on it.Those small holes on the carb are the ones I always seem to spend the most time on to ensure they flow good since they are in a tough spot to clean.
Hey. Yeah a workout, Hahaha I like that one! Just did a carb and plugs swap. No change. I'm leaning towards the crank seal. Thats where it seems to be blowing from. I've done upper seals before but I cant remember any running like this. But then again, I cant remember what happened last week ! Hahaha Thanks ! Stay tuned !
I think its got a cold. She's got a bit of a sneeze. Maybe the reed valve. If it was a crank seal you would think it would be more consistent. It sounds like it fires a few times then sneezes. Maybe it building up base pressure, then blowing it off once it builds enough pressure. I'm not a boat motor mechanic...learned everything I know from watching some Guy on UA-cam. Lol!
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Holly Molly, that motor was running so rough the bolts and screws came loose🤣 Anyway looking forward to seeing it running good after you do your magic on it👍
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
I think the starter is morr likely too light on fire then that cilinder is going to work
Your welcome to come over and pull on that pull starter . Hahaha
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 id love too but im living in the netherlands. Im planning on goingbto america in the nexr year or so
tim sussenbach America is full stay home
@@jimcatx3090 haha
tim sussenbach jk my friend
Holy macarolly
Hello old buddy. I need carb rebuild kit for 84 Johnson 25 hp. Could you help please. Thanks. Js
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. marineengine.com should have it or ebay. Thanks again & Stay Tuned !
Apparently that's a thing with old jonrudes. I just inserted the top cylinder on a 71 20 seahorse
Thanks for tuning in!
I have a 1964 Johnson 18 horse can I add electronic ignition off of a 19 86 35 horse Evinrude
Hey. No it won't fit, everything is different, too big!
My guess would be the top crankcase seal . Check and see if your getting fuel blow bye there first . Something stuck in the reeds would cause that also ! Good luck !
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
That's what I was thinking
If I were you I'd start putting 14mm helicoils in all my cylinder heads going forward... Just to prevent situations like these... They shouldn't cost that much if you bought them in bulk... Seems like cheap insurance to me...!
William Riley your not supposed to use them they made a bad ground it’s in your manual
@@jimcatx3090 ...because they want to sell $100 cylinder heads...
William Riley there a dime a dozen on eBay
If people know know to take spark plugs off we wouldn’t have a problem
@@jimcatx3090 yeah and all stripped out...
Starving for gas it sounds like
Hey. Thanks for tuning in! Check out the next episode to see what happened ! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
lean sneeze i think
Hey. I wish that was all it was. That would be great. Its weird whatever it is. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 was going to comment on those little holes but watched to the end, double check linkage adjustments
@@rockfishsteve9173 Hey. Thanks. Just got back from messing with it and its sounding a little "sneezyer" now. Hahaha When I think "lean sneeze" its rare, and/or usually just a carb adjustment. I did a carb swap and a plug swap and no change. So I'm leaning towards the crank shaft seal, thats where it seems to be blowing out at. Thanks Again ! Stay Tuned !
yep, i guess sneezes are more common with two carbs
I've got a 88 20hp Johnson..took it out today runs great just idling around in no wake zones but cuts in and out really hard at planning speeds and doesn't seem to have full power...then dies off after a couple minutes...trying to figure out where to start when trying to fix it...feels like the motor completely cuts out then starts again while at 3/4 throttle and higher.. hard bucking and jerking coming from the motor go back down to 1/2 throttle or lower runs great again. Would you start with fuel or ignition.?
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Hi. I have this same motor. It’s epic. The Pull Cord broke yesterday. I can’t find any info on how to replace it ??? Do I need to buy the complete recoil rewind top piece ????? Any info would be greatly appreciated. AloHa
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. No you don't have to buy the whole thing, just the rope. Take the rewind starter off, turn it upside down, don't take it apart, take the old rope out if its still in it. Look for the hole where the rope threads through. You'll need some vice-grips or some kind of a clamp, start winding it up in the direction it would be going if you were pulling the rope OUT, keep winding it as tight as you can and hold on to it! Put the vice grips on it so it holds it tight lined up with the hole where the rope gets threaded through. Thread the rope in and tie a double knot in the rope and melt the end at the knot. Hold on to the rope and remove the vice-grips/clamp and slowly let it pull the rope in. Give it a couple of test pulls, it should be strong pulling the rope back in, if not do it all again. The trick is to wind it up supertight to where you can barely hold it by hand. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 thanks for the reply. So got it sorted with a new cord. Now when it’s all back installed, spring tension is good. She starts right up 1st pull. BUT I only get ONE pull as it seem to miss align itself with the “gear”
I really can’t seem to figure out why it’s doing this. Spent a good 4hrs on it.
@@detaileast yeah they can be time consuming, thats why I said dont take it apart , if the springs comes flying out you'll be there another 4 hours hahaha! anyway the center nut and bolt has to have the perfect tention for everything to work right. the starter pawl needs to be "timed" to catch the flywheel just as you start to pull the rope out. if your only getting one pull sounds like the pawl is sticking. clean and lubricant it, test it several times, make sure the its set to catch the flywheel, the rope handle is the "stop" adjustment, if it's to long or to short it can through off the timing of the pawl. you may have to adjust the tension on the nut and bolt. the bolt is the adjustment and the nut is to lock the bolt.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 right on bud. Taking the spring out and reloading it was no big deal. My hands are very arthritic so that’s the only problem. Ok so I need to look up what the sprawl is. Could a skinnier diameter cord be throwing off ? Length is matched up accordingly. Ok I see what the sprawl is..
so could I be over tightening that bolt as well ? The gauge of the rope might be off by the slightest but it’s pretty dam close.
How do I “time” the prawl ? Thanks again bud
I see there’s an Arrow engraved on the main part that holds the metal wire like coming off of the prawl. Is that arrow of importance?
What’s the correct length of cord ?
I
@@detaileast Hey. I don't remember any arrow or using it, same with the cord length. So you see how the pawl opens up as you pull the rope, then you see where it hits the inside of the flywheel and catches to spin it. The flywheel is always going to stop at the same position and the pawl needs to be in postion to meet the flywheel. Normally you'll want to pull the cord until it makes contact with the flywheel, after it stops at the flywheel then you'll want to pull it to start it. Does that make sense. This is where the rope length comes in and the handle stops the pawl from traveling to far back. So when you set the handle the pawl should be closed, then pull it to open the pawl and hit the flywheel, at this point the pawl is butted up against the flywheel there's around six inches of rope pulled out. Then you're ready to pull it. You know how when you start an old lawn mower and you have to pull the cord a few short pulls before it catches good, well its pretty much the same thing, but once its synchronized it should hit perfect every time, well until the rope streches out and you have to tie off the handle again! I think we all go through this the first time! hahaha but it will come to you!
Lean sneeze you got it a vacuum leak it's either the crankcase or crank seals sounds like to me
Thanks for tuning in!
As always enjoyed it..Gooooo Bob Villa..lol...you'll git it..... can't wait...
Hey. Thanks ! Stay Tuned !
SAD SAD story
Yep just about always gotta do the carb... I’m a big fan of that home brew you got going.!!!🙂👍🏻👍🏻
Hey. Yeah. Thanks !
My 9.5 1972 Johnson has a stripped spark plug thread. What is the correct insert I need to ask for? Thread type, length etc
Cheers
Hey. You can get the kit at the auto parts store. 14 mm comes with the tap. Thanks !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Thanks. I brought another 72 9.5hp for $120 the other day. Runs good apart from slight misfire. There was no thermostat in it for some reason.
I am buying a 1972 Evinrude Sportster branded 25 hp outboard next week.
Apparently has modified porting and higher compression. Didn't know they existed until a few weeks ago.
It will be interesting to compare it with my 1979 25 Evinrude.
Will post a video
fingers crossed buddy
Thanks Bro!
That's either a leak around the fuel pump , a bad crank seal, or it's outtaa time.
Thank You ! Forgot to check at the pump. Leaning towards the crank seal, thats where it seems to be blowing out. Did a carb and plug swap today. No change so I can eliminate those. Thanks again !
Hello this old motor good show lad keep on motoring. Jimmy in Orlando.
Hey Jimmy in Orlando. Thanks ! Really appreciate you watching and commenting, Stay tuned !
I come home after 12 hours of cat herding and watched your video i am no longer tired
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
spitting back though the carb ? or head gasket ?
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Top cylinder exhaust bypass gasket?
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Reed valve definitely
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting ! Stay tuned !
Howdy neighbor, just wondering if having the wrong plugs may have contributed to the plug stripping out. I've seen the wrong plugs in 1 and you can see where the plug was contacting the piston. Thanks for the videos
Hey. Thanks for the great comment. Actually the plug "size" is fine and not hitting. I know what you mean there. Its the wrong heat range being champion J8C and should be J4C. Thanks again !
I noticed that on one site, i believe it was Marineengines.com they recommend J8C. Not sure where they got that info, bit I don't think it's correct. They recommend J8C as well for the 1973 Sportwin 9.5 when Evinrude recommends J4C or RJ4C. Bet they saw that and bough the J8C. I say it should be J4C also.
@@uhoh71 Hey. You could be right. I'm not sue who "they" are. Do you mean in the forums. the schematic at marineengine.com calls for the J4C. Anyway I tried to get some yesterday but no luck. Usually the hotter J6c and J8c plugs are for motors that are constantly fouling out plugs. One of these parts places usually has them. Thanks
Look at the info on this link:. www.marineengine.com/parts/champion/outboard/johnson-outboard-spark-plug-guide.html
That's where I saw it.
What happened to your nose? I assume its not some type of fashion😂
I picked a 5 Lb Bogger and my head caved in.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 may the outboard gods bless you man
I’m watching on my TV set with the episode with your prop your talking about using superglue for the inside
I’m a union glass glazier installing windows in boston I would use this stuff call window weld they use it for windshields the stuff is like cement it’s like 15 buck a tube you can find it anywhere like autozone etc or you can use Dow Corning 795 caulking it’s holds 500 lb per sq inch it’s 7 bucks at a construction equipment supply or online it also works for boat leaks or anything it’s made to hold glass in buildings
Hey. Thanks. Yeah that was just a crazy experiment I thought I'd try. I read it on some website. It worked. but it didn't come out the way I wanted it to. Thanks for the info. I'll try it the next time.
THIS OLD OUTBOARD u fix that popping noise it’s driving me crazy
So I got the right compression tester I got 3 9.9 motors 1 has 125 in both one 95 on both and 110 on both all are diff years 75,88,84 and can’t get them running all the wires are all eaten up from mice and shit
My question to you would you stick with the points or stick with the cdi ? I’m hoping to make at least 1 good motor out of the 3 I also have 2 15hp carbs
@@jimcatx3090 I would go with the best overall .
THIS OLD OUTBOARD do you find the cdi being better then points ?
Sounds like a bad reed
I concur
Add a can of SEA FOAM through it. May just be enough to get the fuel flowing.
Hey yeah I thought about trying something. Thanks. Stay tuned !
Just so you know @This Old Outboard That was already done I had ran a bunch through it. Sorry that damn things being a pain in the ARSE LOL I think its top crank seal leaking air remember I said it had a lot of oil it looked like coming from it ;) Also remember that fuel pump was never checked out so it could be bad sucking air? Just a though man.
@@danny1mmafan Got it
That phsst noise is it's running Lean
Yes. why is the ? Did a carb clean. No help. Swapped the carb. No help. leaning towards the crank seal. Thanks ! Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I had a 1970s 35 + a 70 20 horse and it was the idle mixture screw was just into far I backed it out and stopped. I watch your channel every morning before work and sometimes I save it till I get home. Good luck. Will stay tuned.
@@561ENTERPRISE Hey. Cool man thanks, I appreciate that. Anyway/Unfortunately , its a little more involved than just adjusting the idle mix. I wish that was all it was. And Thanks Again ! Stay Tuned !
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD Hello sir, i watched every episode of yours, since i have a '75 20 hp evinrude. it happeded the same to me, at first running fine till i wanted to clean the carb, took it apart, but when assembling it back, the bearing of the needle valve broke, so i did not put it back and the motor did not run smooth after that. while trying to figure that out, took the sparks out a few times, then partially stripped one out from the head. from that moment , it also started to do that hissing noise like yours due to lack of compression, and running on one cylinder, regardless of the firing or fuel mixture. now i did not see on your carb dissasembling any bearing taken out or left on the needle. mine did the same, remained inside and when putting the needle back, the bearing broke so i had to take that out by pieces. i think your hissing/puffing problems will be solved after your spark thread issue has been corrected, but have in mind that regardless of the carb switch, you still need that bearing to run fine. Regards and keep up the good work for all of us!
@@razvanionescu4747 Hey Thanks! Really appreciate you watching and commenting. Are you sure its 75 20hp? The 70's model carb didnt use a bearing, its really a bushing with two packing washers like on the 68 20hp I just did. Unless your referring to the rubber retainer that pops in and retains the slow speed needle. Yeah, without that retainer you'll be sucking air and the needle will be loose. It wont run right. And yes you did not see it when I cleaned the carb. I put a brand new one in on the previous videos. Once they're in you dont want to take it out until its gets old and falls apart like yours did. I appreciate you "keeping me on my toes" but I had it covered ! Hahaha I try to keep a couple extras in my box. Hey Thanks again ! Stay tuned !
it sounds like its lean sneezing on idle, may wanna play with the high an low jets, but the sneezing sounds also like it may be a back fire thru the lower leg, does it pop loud out the leg exhaust out of the water?
No. Its not a shotgun backfire like a timing thing. I swapped the carb and it didnt change a thing. Swapped the plugs no help either. Took it home and pulled the flywheel and plate, the top seal looks fine. Found some crazy stuff but to much to go into here. Thanks !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 daang dude that's weird