I liked when you described yourself as an overgrown boy! Well I'm a 62 year old boy too. I do like my big boy toys and have 3 rc cars. I found this video very informative as I'm looking for a 1/24 crawler for my wife. Looking for something she can drive around in her garden and play with indoors during bad weather. Keep up the cool videos!!
Got a gladiator scx24 for xmas but I am waiting until may for a new reciever/esc I got the fms now and it is so much more fun, capable, powerful, fast, slow modulation capable, better at clearing rocks, and superior at loose slippery hill climbs It is also capable of fast vertical/curve out drop off descents and jumping small gaps and step downs The joy I feel about the FMS is 10x that I first did about the SCX and so far without any of the disappointment of expensive and lengthy repairs due to unreliability. This is the one to get folks!
#1 Removed fenders #2 Repositioned rear upper shock mount under roll cage mount. Seems extreme but it works great. #3 For testing purposes zipped tied suspension up front for max droop in anticipation of running mountain shocks Resulting with each individual tires flexing 3 stock wheels all around. Incredible #4 Larger tires!!! Sounds counterintuitive but the RC4WD Rock Crusher 68 M/T will fit the stock wheels and with the MOFO 1.2 deep dish it gets better by widening the stance. #5 The brass side chassis weights for SCX24 can be applied to the lower front links for upfront weight. I applied one directly under the radiator which to my surprise not only adds weight it fits like it was made for it! I have the red body and it set it off for the look. When patina sets in... #6 Side notes shocks have O rings for you to install inside for oil etc .Reveres on the remote xtra punchy Spoke with a vender and metal upgrades should be available in a months time for the portals!!! Hit me up for pics! Nice review!!!
Got the blue in yesterday. Absolutely love it. Even has the o rings to fill the shocks! I ran 5 battery packs through it already. The battery itself is defective. Doesn’t balance. But no biggie got other smalls.
First thing love your reviews and videos, I got the red FCX 24 power wagon also, I just put the steel gears in the portals, did some crawling Saturday evening with my power wagon and my SCX 24 bronco which is 90% mofo RC all his brass components weigh in at 562 g and the power wagon FCX 24 Out performed my bronco I can’t believe it,
I just traded a 1/16 summit for one of these, and it came with a bunch of injora stuff on it. Not even 24 hours in and it’s easily my favorite rc in my collection
I love mine! I want to put the HR shocks 48mm, and I need to change the steering links and weighted rims. I did the 3D truck bed. I want to get another one to make into a tow truck! Better than the SCX24 out of the box for sure!
Great video! One note is, the portals gears are metal. The differential and transmission gears are plastic, but they do have metal differentials available from FMS
So far all i have done with mine is adding oil to the shocks and foams in the stock tires. It is nice not having the bounce. I have some brass bars and a few other things to try on it but haven't gotten there yet. Great vid Fran!!!👍👍👍
@@RCReviewChannel yea they are not leaking at all so far. I have it sitting on a paper towel to make sure. I did lube the o rings with lube , I think that it is the most important thing for preventing leaks in these tiny shocks
Another great mod video. I was thinking about getting my 12 yo son and me some 1/24 scale trucks, was going to go SCX24 Bronco but now I’m hoping to be able to get a couple of these! Almost everyone seems to love them.
Iv a max Smasher & just discovered the upgrades 😍 the monster truck tyres are So soft, i didn't realise how high end a rc id got until i had it 2yr😂 it a shelf queen/house pet. Its Injora time
Some friends of mine just bout like 6 or more of these and 2 smashers. We're basically hitting forty and wanted to get these for the price. We've broken a few parts. Knuckle, pinion, 1servo and just a few of the plastic parts. I'm looking at upgraded servos which if you have a recommendation since I've added a lot of weight for an upgrade I'd appreciate it. waiting in comp 60mm tires. But have done a full brass axel housing portals and all steel gears. The weight added on little 53mm tires I'm running currently on brass beadlocks w no foams is very impressive. As soon as my tires, metal shafts and hi clearance links. This thing will be a tank! Leaves a lot of trail parts after upgrading too!
I have the same truck and love it. I wish they had come up with a better system to mount the body. I'm working on a magnet mod. Tires stink but what factory tires dont.
I've had the servo arm slip on the servo shaft because the splines are so fine. The servo itself is great. Hopefully a metal servo arm comes out for it. I think the flexy steering link is sorta ment to be like a servo saver in a way. Whether it is or not, definitely not the best design...Pretty impressed that my shocks haven't leaked a drop yet.
Modded a set of 7mm wheel spacers for scx24 also modded a set of gladiator scx24 injora links to fit have scx24 stinger bumper modded to fit cut the finders got double barrel shocks in full drop on rear stock in full drop on front and limiting strapped in front rc4wd stamped bead locks reversed with injora brass rings and some scale mods love mine awesome rig nice review 🔥🔥🔥😎👍
For adding more weight, I've been wondering; if you cut the OD of the foams back enough, if you could use good quality (as in well made, round and smooth 1/8 to 3/16") steel ball bearings. Have them in the tire loose so they can roll free. The idea being that they'd always stay in the bottom of the tire, putting all the extra weight only at the lowest point possible, rather then around the whole diameter of the tire. Can't get weight any lower than that!
Wing Nut Bert, good idea as some of the 1:1 scale guys put water in the tires of their dedicated rock crawling rigs. At just over 8lbs a gallon, water adds low weight quickly and easily to full size 4x4s. When it comes to things that are 1/10th of the size or less... yes, steel or lead ball bearings would probably be the most efficient way to get the same effect in a small RC crawler.
@@zachhartson4819 Thanks! That's interestign re the water. Didn't know that. Makes sense though. Cheap, adjustable and no big loss if you blow a tire. I don't know if it's a good idea or not. Would be best tested by some one with more experience then me, being a newb. But it just made sense and I like thinking about outta the box ideas like that. :)
On a 1/12th scale rig I have I had some round weights inside the tire loose. The low center of gravity was awesome, but there were some odd side effects having them loose in there. So I used some hemp twine and tied the weights to the inside of the wheel. Then cut a section of a 10-speed bicycle innertube that I put on top of the weights to hold them in place. It has worked great for over 3 years with no problem. Another method would be to wrap pencil lead weight (you can buy it in fishing supply stores) or solder onto the wheel, then secure it in place with the bicycle innertube. The trick would be to have the beginning and end of the lead meet so the weight is balanced. If it were out of balance it would cause the tire to bounce, the same as an unbalanced tire does on a real car.
@@DFDuck55 Interesting. I figured there'd be some sort of trade off/negative to having bearings rolling loose. What were the side effects you had? I use to do Stained Glass so wrapping the rim was one of the first things to come to mind as a cheap weight, but I like your idea of adding the inner tube to hold it. You can get flat strips of lead Came used in Stained Glass window construction as well that would be good for wrapping the rims too. 👍 Thanks!
@@wingnutbert9685: The problem I had with the loose weights is was enough shifting weight to effect the whole truck back and forth when accelerating and decelerating. It seemed to effect it more when I was climbing hills. Though I had no foams on that rig. I have beadlocks with no breather holes, and I press one side of the tire into the wheel before I tighten it down so it's like running on low air pressure tires. Well it's more than "like" running low air pressure, it "is" low air pressure tires, which seems to look much more real to me than it does with foams. The bicycle inner tube I picked up at Walmart. I like the idea of using window lead strips. It's sort of the same thing as why used the round lead balls.. because it was what I had. I plan on doing the same thing with a couple of my 1/24 rigs but with solder. I really do like low air in my tires than having foams and a breather hole that water gets in. The only nuisance is sometimes I need to loosen the nuts on the beadlock and lift a spot on the bead to adjust the air pressure. In very cold weather I need to let some air in, and in very hot weather I need to let some air out. It really doesn't bother me that much. You have to adjust your air pressure on 1:1 rigs too depending on the outdoor temperature and the terrain, and no one complains about doing that, it's just part of the off road crawling game.
This mini crawler is pretty fantastic! I wish it had oil shocks metal gears rear lights and adjustable wheelbase. If someone wants to by this model from a europian werehouse website does it have that option? Fms EU? Also are there parts and optional parts available or not yet..? Thanks for sharing brother! 👍🏾✌️🙏
@@RCReviewChannel Great job on the upgrades, Francis! I like the looks of the stock truck and the versatility of a hard body but that JConcepts body and those wheels - sweet!
Just got mine yesterday. So far I've noticed in low gear, going forward it sounds like gear mesh is too tight or something, sounds awful but not in reverse and high gear. Its fixed motor position so can't adjust mesh. The shocks out of the box had limited travel because the bottom caps hole is too small and causes the shaft to drag on it and sometimes stick even. I tried with oil, it was terrible because the bottom o rings are too large and smash against it causing more drag, so I removed that bottom cap altogether and got full travel now, much better. Then there is the low gear twitch. When crawling in low gear, it chugs forward and back over uneven terrain because of the slop in the transmission, which is ALOT. I like it, but it needs some improvements still. Adjustable motor mount and getting rid of that slop in the transmission. Maybe this is just me?
Thank you for your great videos. I literally just got it this morning and revisiting this. As you said and I see it too, the servo wire isn't long enough. Do you know how to flip the esc? is it glued on? Was hoping for a quick how to. Thank you.
Ali Express have metal upgrades for this including portals, portal gears, suspension & steering links, servo mount/bracket, brass wheel weights and shock absorbers 🙂👍🏼
I've stayed away from this because of a bad experience with the Atlas. Everybody loved it when it came out but mine was terrible. No power and stripped gears in the axles and transmission with a motor upgrade. Man, it looks like maybe they learned something. I'm not crazy about the portal axles and FMS does not seem to know how to make dependable gears. I think I'm going to give it a couple more months and see if the aftermarket embraces this cool little truck.
And what about reinforcing the steering rod wrapping it with carbon row and glue with cyanoacrylate? I use this in several application and it works very well
This is endless loop i think. I just maxed out scx24 c 10 and then came Fms fcx. Well ofc i had to order this yesterday. Wonder what comes next. These cars are very very nice because you dont have to look further than going outside the door and theres allready some place to try crawl it over.
Charging in the car was the one thing I was taught to never do. I have seen how those batteries can become a litttle jet engine, spionning around on my floor. Just from messing up and emptying the battery. I guess a metal body helps, but I would want to take anything ,that's gonna charge, out.
When you cut the springs did it have a hard time staying in position? Assuming the springs has a full circle coil on each end- when you cut did it just leave a single edge? Not sure if that makes sense.. great video!
As all ways great video,and love the location for you and your friends to crawl.Wish i lived near that place.My question,would like to see how you do these upgrades.Some of us or not just me,are all thumbs.Also you said you used the Hyrax tires, how did you upgrade them to fit the crawler? When you buy them they are not compatible for the brass weights.Maybe Pro line will change in the future? Thanks again for the video.To you and your subscribers,Happy RC.☮Also thought it would look cool with a board bed liner,either 3 d or some kind of real wood.
Agreed. It can be a bit disappointing when us newbies don't get to see the "how" and only the end result. :) I was thinking weathered popcicle sticks would be good for flat deck board.
Maybe not such a great idea to charge the battery in the truck if it's a lipo. Enjoy your vids though mate this tempts me to get into 24th scale, never interested before as the bodies seems so light the rigs I've seen just seem toy like.
looking into getting my this as my first crawler. does this fit any wheels/hubs advertised as compatible with the scx24? interested in the samix aluminum/brass wheels and samix hubs. what tires do you recommend?
I have to admit that this thing has a lot of cool features, but as said on another channel, not sure I would have combined portals and 2-speed. I would have wished for different length suspension links and drive shafts to come in the package in the first place. Otherwise to me this just does not look like the details add up to proper scale. Body is way too large (and heavy) and wheelbase is definitely too short. I hope they come out with other body styles (e.g. Unimog), too. For an old Unimog the wheel Style would be okayish. For the power wagon I do not like the wheels too much.
I have the Atlas 6x6. I put brass hex weights on and it's great. I'm getting interested in this. The Panda Hobby was not as impressive as I had hoped for. I love my RC4WD Mud Slingers on my SCX24, but they wouldn't fit the Atlas. I have some videos of them on my channel.
Go back to your factory box and look inside. There's shock piston in the package, install them and put in about 4 drops of oil. That bouncing is bugging me....looks way too toy-ish.
It's ok but the shocks need improvement. Also for me it's a little too heavy in the front, on steep descents in front flips because there's no weight in the rear. I think I'm gonna put the cage and tire on the back and see how that does. Also, like you said it really needs a stronger steering link. Other than those things it's been amazing out of the box.
Saw someone else mention the flex of the link maybe another form of 'servo saver' as the servo doesn't have one like the scx24's do. Guess time will tell if a solid link is sub'd in whether the servo can hack it.
I need help from the servo king. I just burnt out my new savox sc1258 servo in a race on carpet with my losi tancity tt pro. Any recommendations for the best fast servo for 4x4 sct carpet and turf???
Would be cool if you did a follow up video now that there are so many more options out there
I liked when you described yourself as an overgrown boy! Well I'm a 62 year old boy too. I do like my big boy toys and have 3 rc cars. I found this video very informative as I'm looking for a 1/24 crawler for my wife. Looking for something she can drive around in her garden and play with indoors during bad weather. Keep up the cool videos!!
Got a gladiator scx24 for xmas but I am waiting until may for a new reciever/esc
I got the fms now and it is so much more fun, capable, powerful, fast, slow modulation capable, better at clearing rocks, and superior at loose slippery hill climbs
It is also capable of fast vertical/curve out drop off descents and jumping small gaps and step downs
The joy I feel about the FMS is 10x that I first did about the SCX and so far without any of the disappointment of expensive and lengthy repairs due to unreliability.
This is the one to get folks!
#1 Removed fenders
#2 Repositioned rear upper shock mount under roll cage mount. Seems extreme but it works great.
#3 For testing purposes zipped tied suspension up front for max droop in anticipation of running
mountain shocks Resulting with each individual tires flexing 3 stock wheels all around. Incredible
#4 Larger tires!!! Sounds counterintuitive but the RC4WD Rock Crusher 68 M/T will fit the stock wheels
and with the MOFO 1.2 deep dish it gets better by widening the stance.
#5 The brass side chassis weights for SCX24 can be applied to the lower front links for upfront weight.
I applied one directly under the radiator which to my surprise not only adds weight it fits like it was
made for it! I have the red body and it set it off for the look. When patina sets in...
#6 Side notes shocks have O rings for you to install inside for oil etc .Reveres on the remote xtra punchy
Spoke with a vender and metal upgrades should be available in a months time for the portals!!! Hit me up for pics! Nice review!!!
Great details on the upgrades, did you keep the stock body or get a smaller 1/24 scale power wagon body??
Bought! Out of the box painted a rusty patina on it using washes and dry pigments for texture. I want more lighting. Really like this thing...
The vehicle comes with a bag of gaskets so that you can make the stock shocks oil filled and dampen them 🤘🏼😄 best freebie in the whole kit
Good tip! That is so legit!
@@RCReviewChannel you’ll have to try them out and let us know if they are any good or if it needs aftermarket shocks 👍🏻
@@UpperLeftRC I'm skeptical. I hate leaky shocks :)
@@RCReviewChannel I did mine on day one an they haven't leaked yet. I got my last Wednesday
@@RCReviewChannel also mccue rc has trailing arm links that extend the wheel base also he has a steering linkage coming out real soon
I have the blue smasher ute & I love it. So far I've upgraded to brass axles, metal difs & gears & an aluminium frame
Got the blue in yesterday. Absolutely love it. Even has the o rings to fill the shocks! I ran 5 battery packs through it already.
The battery itself is defective. Doesn’t balance. But no biggie got other smalls.
My battery cut out in the field once as well.
First thing love your reviews and videos, I got the red FCX 24 power wagon also, I just put the steel gears in the portals, did some crawling Saturday evening with my power wagon and my SCX 24 bronco which is 90% mofo RC all his brass components weigh in at 562 g and the power wagon FCX 24 Out performed my bronco I can’t believe it,
Split shot sinker/fishing weights or BBs in the tires might be good for weight. Might be rough for high speed, but doable at low speed for sure.
They just need to be laid flat and the duct tape wrapped around them to keep a round shape
I just traded a 1/16 summit for one of these, and it came with a bunch of injora stuff on it. Not even 24 hours in and it’s easily my favorite rc in my collection
I love mine! I want to put the HR shocks 48mm, and I need to change the steering links and weighted rims. I did the 3D truck bed. I want to get another one to make into a tow truck! Better than the SCX24 out of the box for sure!
I just ordered the full treal upgrade package for this thing! all the aluminum, and brass!
Great video! One note is, the portals gears are metal. The differential and transmission gears are plastic, but they do have metal differentials available from FMS
Waiting to see custom scale bodies getting made for this rig
So far all i have done with mine is adding oil to the shocks and foams in the stock tires. It is nice not having the bounce. I have some brass bars and a few other things to try on it but haven't gotten there yet. Great vid Fran!!!👍👍👍
Is it holding oil well? Not leaky?
@@RCReviewChannel yea they are not leaking at all so far. I have it sitting on a paper towel to make sure. I did lube the o rings with lube , I think that it is the most important thing for preventing leaks in these tiny shocks
What kind of oil did you use? Thanks!
Hey brother!!! I used Team Associated 15wt
Another great mod video. I was thinking about getting my 12 yo son and me some 1/24 scale trucks, was going to go SCX24 Bronco but now I’m hoping to be able to get a couple of these! Almost everyone seems to love them.
Iv a max Smasher & just discovered the upgrades 😍 the monster truck tyres are So soft, i didn't realise how high end a rc id got until i had it 2yr😂
it a shelf queen/house pet. Its Injora time
Some friends of mine just bout like 6 or more of these and 2 smashers. We're basically hitting forty and wanted to get these for the price. We've broken a few parts. Knuckle, pinion, 1servo and just a few of the plastic parts. I'm looking at upgraded servos which if you have a recommendation since I've added a lot of weight for an upgrade I'd appreciate it. waiting in comp 60mm tires. But have done a full brass axel housing portals and all steel gears. The weight added on little 53mm tires I'm running currently on brass beadlocks w no foams is very impressive. As soon as my tires, metal shafts and hi clearance links. This thing will be a tank! Leaves a lot of trail parts after upgrading too!
I have the same truck and love it. I wish they had come up with a better system to mount the body. I'm working on a magnet mod. Tires stink but what factory tires dont.
Always love your videos. Appreciate your knowledge to the rc community bro! 👍🏻
I've had the servo arm slip on the servo shaft because the splines are so fine. The servo itself is great. Hopefully a metal servo arm comes out for it. I think the flexy steering link is sorta ment to be like a servo saver in a way. Whether it is or not, definitely not the best design...Pretty impressed that my shocks haven't leaked a drop yet.
Modded a set of 7mm wheel spacers for scx24 also modded a set of gladiator scx24 injora links to fit have scx24 stinger bumper modded to fit cut the finders got double barrel shocks in full drop on rear stock in full drop on front and limiting strapped in front rc4wd stamped bead locks reversed with injora brass rings and some scale mods love mine awesome rig nice review 🔥🔥🔥😎👍
Got mine at a 100$ and loving it!!!!
I have red one on order expected on the 7th of July
The waiting game is the hardest part.
Was super excited about this power wagon first run servo doesn't even work.
For adding more weight, I've been wondering; if you cut the OD of the foams back enough, if you could use good quality (as in well made, round and smooth 1/8 to 3/16") steel ball bearings. Have them in the tire loose so they can roll free. The idea being that they'd always stay in the bottom of the tire, putting all the extra weight only at the lowest point possible, rather then around the whole diameter of the tire. Can't get weight any lower than that!
Wing Nut Bert, good idea as some of the 1:1 scale guys put water in the tires of their dedicated rock crawling rigs. At just over 8lbs a gallon, water adds low weight quickly and easily to full size 4x4s.
When it comes to things that are 1/10th of the size or less... yes, steel or lead ball bearings would probably be the most efficient way to get the same effect in a small RC crawler.
@@zachhartson4819 Thanks! That's interestign re the water. Didn't know that. Makes sense though. Cheap, adjustable and no big loss if you blow a tire.
I don't know if it's a good idea or not. Would be best tested by some one with more experience then me, being a newb. But it just made sense and I like thinking about outta the box ideas like that. :)
On a 1/12th scale rig I have I had some round weights inside the tire loose. The low center of gravity was awesome, but there were some odd side effects having them loose in there. So I used some hemp twine and tied the weights to the inside of the wheel. Then cut a section of a 10-speed bicycle innertube that I put on top of the weights to hold them in place. It has worked great for over 3 years with no problem. Another method would be to wrap pencil lead weight (you can buy it in fishing supply stores) or solder onto the wheel, then secure it in place with the bicycle innertube. The trick would be to have the beginning and end of the lead meet so the weight is balanced. If it were out of balance it would cause the tire to bounce, the same as an unbalanced tire does on a real car.
@@DFDuck55 Interesting. I figured there'd be some sort of trade off/negative to having bearings rolling loose. What were the side effects you had? I use to do Stained Glass so wrapping the rim was one of the first things to come to mind as a cheap weight, but I like your idea of adding the inner tube to hold it. You can get flat strips of lead Came used in Stained Glass window construction as well that would be good for wrapping the rims too. 👍 Thanks!
@@wingnutbert9685: The problem I had with the loose weights is was enough shifting weight to effect the whole truck back and forth when accelerating and decelerating. It seemed to effect it more when I was climbing hills. Though I had no foams on that rig. I have beadlocks with no breather holes, and I press one side of the tire into the wheel before I tighten it down so it's like running on low air pressure tires. Well it's more than "like" running low air pressure, it "is" low air pressure tires, which seems to look much more real to me than it does with foams. The bicycle inner tube I picked up at Walmart. I like the idea of using window lead strips. It's sort of the same thing as why used the round lead balls.. because it was what I had. I plan on doing the same thing with a couple of my 1/24 rigs but with solder. I really do like low air in my tires than having foams and a breather hole that water gets in. The only nuisance is sometimes I need to loosen the nuts on the beadlock and lift a spot on the bead to adjust the air pressure. In very cold weather I need to let some air in, and in very hot weather I need to let some air out. It really doesn't bother me that much. You have to adjust your air pressure on 1:1 rigs too depending on the outdoor temperature and the terrain, and no one complains about doing that, it's just part of the off road crawling game.
Just got a tank 4 the channel since r tank battles r pickn up ,after r 1st Crawlers event I put on with prizes 👋Grate show
Another useful, practical video. Thanks.
Glad you think so!
This mini crawler is pretty fantastic! I wish it had oil shocks metal gears rear lights and adjustable wheelbase. If someone wants to by this model from a europian werehouse website does it have that option? Fms EU? Also are there parts and optional parts available or not yet..? Thanks for sharing brother! 👍🏾✌️🙏
Look for FMS to sell a ton of these and expect the aftermarket industry to be pretty close behind - they know a good thing when they see one! 👍
Aftermarket always comes when there is a demand. I expect Treal, Vitavon, SSD and others to offer upgrades.
@@RCReviewChannel Great job on the upgrades, Francis! I like the looks of the stock truck and the versatility of a hard body but that JConcepts body and those wheels - sweet!
Just got mine yesterday. So far I've noticed in low gear, going forward it sounds like gear mesh is too tight or something, sounds awful but not in reverse and high gear. Its fixed motor position so can't adjust mesh. The shocks out of the box had limited travel because the bottom caps hole is too small and causes the shaft to drag on it and sometimes stick even. I tried with oil, it was terrible because the bottom o rings are too large and smash against it causing more drag, so I removed that bottom cap altogether and got full travel now, much better. Then there is the low gear twitch. When crawling in low gear, it chugs forward and back over uneven terrain because of the slop in the transmission, which is ALOT. I like it, but it needs some improvements still. Adjustable motor mount and getting rid of that slop in the transmission. Maybe this is just me?
That thing is just so capable. Next video, this vs the SCX24 🤔🤔
Thank you for your great videos. I literally just got it this morning and revisiting this. As you said and I see it too, the servo wire isn't long enough. Do you know how to flip the esc? is it glued on? Was hoping for a quick how to. Thank you.
Got one of these for Christmas 🎅🏿
Ali Express have metal upgrades for this including portals, portal gears, suspension & steering links, servo mount/bracket, brass wheel weights and shock absorbers 🙂👍🏼
It comes with O-rings for the shocks so you can add oil
Awesome
Hello, you mentioned that you cut 30mm of the shock springs, I think that is a mistake because the stock springs themselves are around 30mm long.
Thanks for the info!
Most welcome
great video, what battery charger are you using and do they make cable adaptors for other charges? Thank you. Jim B.
I've stayed away from this because of a bad experience with the Atlas. Everybody loved it when it came out but mine was terrible. No power and stripped gears in the axles and transmission with a motor upgrade. Man, it looks like maybe they learned something. I'm not crazy about the portal axles and FMS does not seem to know how to make dependable gears. I think I'm going to give it a couple more months and see if the aftermarket embraces this cool little truck.
It's my favorite RC truck
Watching another video it was shown that o-rings were included for adding oil to shocks for dampening. Is this not true?
There are a lot of o-rings in the box. Someone should be trying them soon.
Yes. That's what they're for.
And what about reinforcing the steering rod wrapping it with carbon row and glue with cyanoacrylate? I use this in several application and it works very well
You may be able to use to brass wheel hex from the scx24 I have the fms k10 they fit on it to upgrade some of wheel weight combos may work to
That is a fine idea for sure. These wheels came from my SCX24.
Simply put its brilliant
I purchased one of these and it has an option to activate a 3speed transmission thru the radio this is the only model I’ve seen with it
This is endless loop i think. I just maxed out scx24 c 10 and then came Fms fcx. Well ofc i had to order this yesterday. Wonder what comes next. These cars are very very nice because you dont have to look further than going outside the door and theres allready some place to try crawl it over.
The version I bought, is a revised transmitter where I can’t set the throttle and drag brake. Should I change the remote and esc set.?
Charging in the car was the one thing I was taught to never do. I have seen how those batteries can become a litttle jet engine, spionning around on my floor. Just from messing up and emptying the battery. I guess a metal body helps, but I would want to take anything ,that's gonna charge, out.
Which lexan body would fit easily?
Thanks
When you cut the springs did it have a hard time staying in position? Assuming the springs has a full circle coil on each end- when you cut did it just leave a single edge? Not sure if that makes sense.. great video!
So far, not a problem. They haven’t gotten s nagged
@@RCReviewChannel I feel seen! Thank you ❤️
Good stuff buddy!!
As all ways great video,and love the location for you and your friends to crawl.Wish i lived near that place.My question,would like to see how you do these upgrades.Some of us or not just me,are all thumbs.Also you said you used the Hyrax tires, how did you upgrade them to fit the crawler? When you buy them they are not compatible for the brass weights.Maybe Pro line will change in the future? Thanks again for the video.To you and your subscribers,Happy RC.☮Also thought it would look cool with a board bed liner,either 3 d or some kind of real wood.
Agreed. It can be a bit disappointing when us newbies don't get to see the "how" and only the end result. :)
I was thinking weathered popcicle sticks would be good for flat deck board.
Great Vid! stripped my servo horn any advise on an upgrade??
Ordered 1 tonight
Maybe not such a great idea to charge the battery in the truck if it's a lipo. Enjoy your vids though mate this tempts me to get into 24th scale, never interested before as the bodies seems so light the rigs I've seen just seem toy like.
Can we get FMS stuff at the hobby shop? Just curious.
looking into getting my this as my first crawler. does this fit any wheels/hubs advertised as compatible with the scx24? interested in the samix aluminum/brass wheels and samix hubs. what tires do you recommend?
The coolest.........🤔
Im buying one soon. Want to build a small belly dragger..
👍👍👍
Striped rear carrier/locker hopefully upgrade comes soon
Could I ask how exactly the radio transmitter is set? I'm a bit confused.
6drops of oil in the shocks
I have to admit that this thing has a lot of cool features, but as said on another channel, not sure I would have combined portals and 2-speed. I would have wished for different length suspension links and drive shafts to come in the package in the first place. Otherwise to me this just does not look like the details add up to proper scale. Body is way too large (and heavy) and wheelbase is definitely too short.
I hope they come out with other body styles (e.g. Unimog), too. For an old Unimog the wheel Style would be okayish. For the power wagon I do not like the wheels too much.
Maraming salamat!
:) Walang anuman
love the little thing
where did you get that adapter for the battery
How do you change the drag brake?
I have the Atlas 6x6. I put brass hex weights on and it's great. I'm getting interested in this. The Panda Hobby was not as impressive as I had hoped for. I love my RC4WD Mud Slingers on my SCX24, but they wouldn't fit the Atlas. I have some videos of them on my channel.
Go back to your factory box and look inside. There's shock piston in the package, install them and put in about 4 drops of oil. That bouncing is bugging me....looks way too toy-ish.
Will do
It's ok but the shocks need improvement. Also for me it's a little too heavy in the front, on steep descents in front flips because there's no weight in the rear. I think I'm gonna put the cage and tire on the back and see how that does. Also, like you said it really needs a stronger steering link. Other than those things it's been amazing out of the box.
good observations
Saw someone else mention the flex of the link maybe another form of 'servo saver' as the servo doesn't have one like the scx24's do. Guess time will tell if a solid link is sub'd in whether the servo can hack it.
I need help from the servo king. I just burnt out my new savox sc1258 servo in a race on carpet with my losi tancity tt pro. Any recommendations for the best fast servo for 4x4 sct carpet and turf???
So finally, SCX24 or FMS?
Fms
Are you in Santa Cruz CA?
San Jose
@@RCReviewChannel Ha!, I grew up in Willow Glen. Great Chanel sir. Thanks for all your info.
A C T U ALY!!
Instead of buying another charger why not just change the battery & esc connectors to xt60? to smart I guess............................
this didnt take you long
Always scheming here
Please tell me about your eyebrows..
I challenge you to find a new word for modulate.
How them plastic transmission gears and diffs? Any recommendations?😅