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As a woman with very little experience, I would have appreciated a little more detail when you separated the faucet parts. I could follow by pausing the video and watching with no problem but describing what remained on top and what you removing to attach to the underside would have helped me. Also, is there a best place for the placement of the weight? And, the placement of the wall piece was 1/4 down from the horizontal marks and assuming centered from the vertical marks? Thank you! Your video helped me install this myself.
You're quite welcome, and I'll try to be a bit more detailed in my future videos, but what you did was correct, pause the video as you went along is best, overall I'm happy to hear you were able to get it done..👍
I'm planning on installing this on my backyard patio. Can I just connect it on the ground faucet? What can I use to connect it to both hot and cold water hoses of the utility sink? Thank you.
Hey Alvin, Pex-b would most likely be the easiest to work with depending on the location of your patio to closest area to tap into the hot and cold, also if gets down below 32 degrees where you live you will need to set up a drain on each line to evacuate the water from them to prevent freezing.
Very common to only connect cold water in a yard situation. I would recommend either using a Y connector to tie the hot and cold faucet lines together, and attaching the Y to your cold line. OR, getting a cap to cap off the HOT line water hose on the faucet. I have seen situation where if the hot was left not hooked up, cold water from the faucet would flow back down the un hooked up hot line. I like the 3/8 by 3/8 by 3/8 Y available in brass at HD and Lowes. And as Yardie mentioned, have a way to drain the line in cold weather.
Not here. Plumbers putty is not needed here due to the parts supplied by Trinity and intended use. They supply a nice foam gasket to go between the drain flange and the sink. It takes the place of plumber's putty. Most sinks and drains come separately, from different manufacturers. With no top gasket. In that situation, you would use a big bead of putty between the drain flange and sink. And as you tightened the drain flange nut, the putty would squeeze out. Filling in gaps and giving a good water tight seal. Here, the nice foam gasket takes the place of the putty. Of course, you could use putty instead of the foam gasket if you wanted. I thought about it but decided not to do that. If i was installing in an industrial or commercial situation where caustic chemicals would be sitting in the sink, I would do putty. But i have installed these in my home garages, and they tend to see mostly soapy water and foamy engine degreaser. Remember, the waste water is not under pressure. I have seen no leaks at all with the gasket. NOTE: plumbers putty was invented to do the watertight mounting faucets and drains into cast iron sinks and tubs. The openings for drains and faucets on Cast iron, with a porcelain coating, is NOT dead flat. And the plumbers putty did a great job of filling in low spots. With a stainless steel sink and stainless steel drain flange, the fit is very close.
that is how I installed it Dylan, the white washer you see at the bottom is cardboard that is there as a buffer to prevent the rubber washer from twisting out of place.
at 12:27 you have the white washer on the bottom but the instructions said to do this: Insert Faucet through the White Gasket and the hole on SINK (A) ledge from the top side of SINK (A). Orient the Faucet handle toward the front. From under SINK (A), first slide on the Black Gasket then screw on the Lock Nut. the white gasket at 12:27 should be on the top from the instructions and only the black gasket should be on the bottom side
@@thediyyardie7192 I saw the top of the faucet inside the base also had a rubber gasket but it was slimmer than the bottom one so that's why I assume they tell you to put it on top
**FOR CONTRIBUTIONS: Greetings everyone, if you found this video helpful and would like to make a small contribution to the channel, please use one of these link. Thanks in advance.
cash.app/$DIYYardie paypal.me/TheDiyYardie
Thanks man, just enough info to get the job done! Much appreciated 😉
This was an absolutely outstanding video. You could not have more clearly explained each step. Thank you very much!
Much thanks Steve, I really appreciate the compliment my video, and glad to hear it was helpful to you..
Just purchased one of these. Your video will make installation more confident.
Happy to hear that my video was helpful to you Damion, you'll be fine...
As a woman with very little experience, I would have appreciated a little more detail when you separated the faucet parts. I could follow by pausing the video and watching with no problem but describing what remained on top and what you removing to attach to the underside would have helped me. Also, is there a best place for the placement of the weight? And, the placement of the wall piece was 1/4 down from the horizontal marks and assuming centered from the vertical marks? Thank you! Your video helped me install this myself.
You're quite welcome, and I'll try to be a bit more detailed in my future videos, but what you did was correct, pause the video as you went along is best, overall I'm happy to hear you were able to get it done..👍
I'm planning on installing this on my backyard patio. Can I just connect it on the ground faucet? What can I use to connect it to both hot and cold water hoses of the utility sink? Thank you.
Hey Alvin, Pex-b would most likely be the easiest to work with depending on the location of your patio to closest area to tap into the hot and cold, also if gets down below 32 degrees where you live you will need to set up a drain on each line to evacuate the water from them to prevent freezing.
Very common to only connect cold water in a yard situation. I would recommend either using a Y connector to tie the hot and cold faucet lines together, and attaching the Y to your cold line. OR, getting a cap to cap off the HOT line water hose on the faucet. I have seen situation where if the hot was left not hooked up, cold water from the faucet would flow back down the un hooked up hot line. I like the 3/8 by 3/8 by 3/8 Y available in brass at HD and Lowes. And as Yardie mentioned, have a way to drain the line in cold weather.
there is no need for putty??
its always good to use putty, this assemble was done per the instructions.
Not here. Plumbers putty is not needed here due to the parts supplied by Trinity and intended use. They supply a nice foam gasket to go between the drain flange and the sink. It takes the place of plumber's putty. Most sinks and drains come separately, from different manufacturers. With no top gasket. In that situation, you would use a big bead of putty between the drain flange and sink. And as you tightened the drain flange nut, the putty would squeeze out. Filling in gaps and giving a good water tight seal. Here, the nice foam gasket takes the place of the putty. Of course, you could use putty instead of the foam gasket if you wanted. I thought about it but decided not to do that. If i was installing in an industrial or commercial situation where caustic chemicals would be sitting in the sink, I would do putty. But i have installed these in my home garages, and they tend to see mostly soapy water and foamy engine degreaser. Remember, the waste water is not under pressure. I have seen no leaks at all with the gasket. NOTE: plumbers putty was invented to do the watertight mounting faucets and drains into cast iron sinks and tubs. The openings for drains and faucets on Cast iron, with a porcelain coating, is NOT dead flat. And the plumbers putty did a great job of filling in low spots. With a stainless steel sink and stainless steel drain flange, the fit is very close.
I think you installed the faucet wrong
it says the white washer should be on the top side
black washer should be on the bottom side
that is how I installed it Dylan, the white washer you see at the bottom is cardboard that is there as a buffer to prevent the rubber washer from twisting out of place.
at 12:27 you have the white washer on the bottom
but the instructions said to do this:
Insert Faucet through the White Gasket and the hole on SINK (A) ledge from the top side of SINK (A). Orient the Faucet handle toward the front. From under SINK (A), first slide on the Black Gasket then screw on the Lock Nut.
the white gasket at 12:27 should be on the top from the instructions and only the black gasket should be on the bottom side
@@dylan-nguyen oh ok I get what you're saying, but It made more sence to me to place the rubber on top in order to prevent leaks..
@@thediyyardie7192 I saw the top of the faucet inside the base also had a rubber gasket but it was slimmer than the bottom one so that's why I assume they tell you to put it on top
@@dylan-nguyen oh ok possibly..