Awesome video, would like to copy your idea with the jump pack. Dealer told me same thing about batteries (which made sense at the time)... then one day everything turned off at the same time while I was out on the water 😅. Doesn't help that the factory bilge pump is always running, but your dual solution would be perfect.
All mandatory and necessary imo. On the cheap, but done RIGHT. I saved immediately for reference. I will do all of these without hesitation. Thank you sir!
Hi mate --- i wouldn't put the switches right next to the fuel fill cap -- That area is also a vent for the fuel tank and if you spill fuel it will soak through to the power contacts.. John --
@@Redneck_Savant -- Do you know anyone with a 3d printer .... I have a plan to model a mount for those swithes under the lid.. I can send you the file once im done..
Actually, I have a buddy that has many 3-D printers and is willing to print anything I want at no cost. If you end up sending me the file I’ll mail one to you.
You have a check valve for the discharge and that's great but I believe you also need a check valve for each pump prior to the Y valve. If one pump comes on it could just pump water back into the hull via the non operating pump. Now it's been a long time since I had a boat and things may have changed since my day so I could be wrong.
those riv nuts you used are made for steel, that's why it cracked the fibreglass, you need to buy specific ones for fibreglass and be careful how much pressure is put on them, i would recommend glueing those nutserts or preferably replacing them because if they spin when you go to take them off your going to be be cutting them off which would not be fun on a new seadoo
Great information! I have experience with Sea Doo Honda, Yamaha and Kawasaki..Sea doo is always innovative but not reliable. Yamaha is good but Kawasaki is great!
@@Redneck_Savant Hey, I just picked up my Ski. 2024 Fish Pro trophy. I'm in Montauk, Long Island, NY. I was in Bali when I commented. I'm back now, Ski is My backyard. I had my dealer put in a bilge pump from Sea-Doo; I'm disappointed it is always on when the battery is on. Planning on doing some offshore stuff here. Your machanicas is brilliant. Nine not so much at all. Will probably try and change my bilge set up at some point.
That’s awesome that you got your ski! Yeah, those little blue bullet style bilge pumps that Sea-Doo offers always run and I don’t see why they think that’s a good idea.
Can you please give advise? I found sea do 2022 fishpro and its like 10k cheaper than 2024 fishpro, both brand new, what are the differences between them? Is it worth going for 2024 and spending so much more money?
I’m not too sure, but I know the 2023 and 2024’s sea-Doo solved the IDF feature. I know some previous years had a problem. So I would look into seeing if 2022s had an IDF problem before you purchase.
I’m install 2 batteries on 2019 fish pro , and install bracket for electric downriver, all work well, I have to doo Video! My next project, I made sternly steel bumper width big plait for electric motor in front looks nice work well
I’m sure you could put a digital volt meter on that bike … you would know at all times where you’re at … I would do every upgrade possible … I’m buy the biggest fishing model made period … I’m not riding 65 miles plus out deep to run into any problems … absolute marine radio
Great vid.. just so you know, the second battery is connected with 2x 50amp inline fuses. So if the main battery fails as soon as you press the start button it will blow a fuse ($200au wiring harness replacement from Sea-Doo) as it takes over 180amps to start it and will not be able to use power from the second battery. Fix is 2x AGM batteries, new thicker wires without the fuses
@@Redneck_Savant yep I didnt realise til I was stuck out in the ocean and luckily I had a jump starter. When I got home main battery was dead and second battery was 100% ( but fuse doesn't allow you to use the second battery to start) Big let down and is a flaw in the Sea-Doo duel battery system
Nice video ,cool mods. Quick question. Are there any concerns regarding heat dissipation from using larger pieces of aluminum so close to the engine that could possibly melt the battery housing?
No, not at all. Aluminum melting point is much higher than the engine produces in temperature. And there’s plastic all over the place touching the engine, and that never melts.
Awesome video, would like to copy your idea with the jump pack. Dealer told me same thing about batteries (which made sense at the time)... then one day everything turned off at the same time while I was out on the water 😅. Doesn't help that the factory bilge pump is always running, but your dual solution would be perfect.
Thanks, yeah same thing happened to me and said to myself this ain’t gonna happen again. Cheers!
but the Bilge pump will be pumping inside the ski! don't you want it to pump outside incase you take too much water ?
All mandatory and necessary imo. On the cheap, but done RIGHT. I saved immediately for reference. I will do all of these without hesitation. Thank you sir!
wow. such a cool build on the battery tray. I might steal your idea and put on mine. Just picked up a explorer pro.
Awesome on the purchase. I encourage you too!
thanks for the vid. seadoo original parts are just too pricy and make DIY worthy
@@Redneck_Savant
THE BEST HELPFULL VIDEO IN THE FISH PRO TOPIC
Hi mate --- i wouldn't put the switches right next to the fuel fill cap -- That area is also a vent for the fuel tank and if you spill fuel it will soak through to the power contacts.. John --
I totally agree with you. I usually don’t spill and thought that would be a great spot for it. There’s definitely better spots for sure.
@@Redneck_Savant -- Do you know anyone with a 3d printer .... I have a plan to model a mount for those swithes under the lid.. I can send you the file once im done..
Actually, I have a buddy that has many 3-D printers and is willing to print anything I want at no cost. If you end up sending me the file I’ll mail one to you.
Speeding this video up just a little was absolute genius.
You have a check valve for the discharge and that's great but I believe you also need a check valve for each pump prior to the Y valve. If one pump comes on it could just pump water back into the hull via the non operating pump. Now it's been a long time since I had a boat and things may have changed since my day so I could be wrong.
Great idea. Because safety is your goal here, don't forget a lipo bag for those lipos. Nice upgrade. 👍
Yeah I agree lipo bag is a must
those riv nuts you used are made for steel, that's why it cracked the fibreglass, you need to buy specific ones for fibreglass and be careful how much pressure is put on them, i would recommend glueing those nutserts or preferably replacing them because if they spin when you go to take them off your going to be be cutting them off which would not be fun on a new seadoo
Very informative, thank you for posting.
Glad it was helpful!
ty for the upload
Great information! I have experience with Sea Doo Honda, Yamaha and Kawasaki..Sea doo is always innovative but not reliable. Yamaha is good but Kawasaki is great!
I totally agree and did that a few days later after testing it, it would go back into the other pump. Now it’s all good
probably would put the one way valves on the pumps before the Y. otherwise it will push some of the water into the other pump thats not running.
I imagine this voids any warranty you might have had on this unit. The crack alone, but the different fittings and such are not factory.
Any mods will most likely void the warranty…
@@Redneck_Savant I do enjoy your content. Please dont think my comment was a negative dig. Thanks for your productions.
Yeah, no worries man! Thanks
Dude, brilliant mechanics. Way subscribed. Hopefully a new Ski Doo Pro for me this season.
Thanks man my mechanics is well above my video skills so sorry about that. Are you in SoCal?
@@Redneck_Savant Hey, I just picked up my Ski. 2024 Fish Pro trophy. I'm in Montauk, Long Island, NY. I was in Bali when I commented. I'm back now, Ski is My backyard. I had my dealer put in a bilge pump from Sea-Doo; I'm disappointed it is always on when the battery is on. Planning on doing some offshore stuff here. Your machanicas is brilliant. Nine not so much at all. Will probably try and change my bilge
set up at some point.
@@Redneck_Savant And i get no reply notifications sorry for the delayed reply..
That’s awesome that you got your ski! Yeah, those little blue bullet style bilge pumps that Sea-Doo offers always run and I don’t see why they think that’s a good idea.
Good stuff 👏
Can you please give advise? I found sea do 2022 fishpro and its like 10k cheaper than 2024 fishpro, both brand new, what are the differences between them? Is it worth going for 2024 and spending so much more money?
I’m not too sure, but I know the 2023 and 2024’s sea-Doo solved the IDF feature. I know some previous years had a problem. So I would look into seeing if 2022s had an IDF problem before you purchase.
Great video 🦾🦾🙏🏿😎
Thank you!
I’m install 2 batteries on 2019 fish pro , and install bracket for electric downriver, all work well, I have to doo Video! My next project, I made sternly steel bumper width big plait for electric motor in front looks nice work well
Very helpful show 👍👍🏆 you just saved me a lot of anger issues 😂😂😂😂
I’m sure you could put a digital volt meter on that bike … you would know at all times where you’re at … I would do every upgrade possible … I’m buy the biggest fishing model made period … I’m not riding 65 miles plus out deep to run into any problems … absolute marine radio
On the fish pro, the fishfinder has a digital display of the volts, which is very helpful.
Bad advice your giving,I knew the nutsert was going to spit the fiberglass
i dont understand that choice at all. im with you.
I had to double check that this wasn’t Nick Swardson’s YT channel
That’s hilarious
Could you provide the measurements of where you did aluminum bends for back and front battery compartments?
Send me an email and I’ll reply. I think it would be easier that way.
Great vid.. just so you know, the second battery is connected with 2x 50amp inline fuses. So if the main battery fails as soon as you press the start button it will blow a fuse ($200au wiring harness replacement from Sea-Doo) as it takes over 180amps to start it and will not be able to use power from the second battery. Fix is 2x AGM batteries, new thicker wires without the fuses
Good to know thank you. I have heard about the fuse issues in the past. I will definitely look into that that would suck to be stuck out on the water.
@@Redneck_Savant yep I didnt realise til I was stuck out in the ocean and luckily I had a jump starter. When I got home main battery was dead and second battery was 100% ( but fuse doesn't allow you to use the second battery to start) Big let down and is a flaw in the Sea-Doo duel battery system
Thanks for the clarification. I heard something along those lines, but it was unclear to me what the issue was. Ty
Nice video ,cool mods. Quick question. Are there any concerns regarding heat dissipation from using larger pieces of aluminum so close to the engine that could possibly melt the battery housing?
No, not at all. Aluminum melting point is much higher than the engine produces in temperature. And there’s plastic all over the place touching the engine, and that never melts.
@@Redneck_Savant thanks 👍
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Maybe don't oversqueeze the rivnut
I totally agree!
@@Redneck_Savantotherwise that looks like a great solution for any ski with a pulled out fastener.