For a crane, a simple solution is a lever on a pivoting/rotating post. A post in the ground with a pipe that can hinge like a teater totter. Depending on the length/ratio at the pivot, you can counterweight it for balance and ease of use. If you sink a pipe in and flush with the ground (maybe in concrete) such that the vertical crane post can slip into it, the whole thing can be removed for storage. So now it can both teeter and rotate 360 degrees. You can lift your crucible and even your flask to dump it anywhere 360 degrees within the reach of your lifting arm. The biggest boost to your casting process right now would be to build a vibe table for your flask. Just a platform on stiff springs you can sit you flask on. Attach your concrete vibrator to the platform and you can prepare multiple flasks in addition to or instead of multiple patterns in a single flask. You'll thank yourself. Best, Kelly
Always great advice! Thank you. Definitely have to work on both ideas. I was surprised with just banging the sand with a stick how we'll it worked, although took a lot of effort. The crane is on the task to do . Seemingly the pours are getting bigger and bigger these days and I want some distance from the lift.
gantry style engine lift could work fine for your crane - you can make it longish or you can build one easily out of unistrut and use dc powered car or hand cranked trailer wenches for lifting - you can get wheeled carrier points that ride inside the strut like a regular ibeam trolley crane
It's mind-blowing for sure! I was skeptical as well. So here is how I understand it. The metal replaces the sand exactly as it melts the foam. The pressure from the metal pushes back on the walls or keeps the voids in place. This is why if you stop pouring and it surges into the mold and the walls collapse or push in if it isn't immediately replaced you get defects. While all this is happening the gasses are pushed through the sand as well trying to escape to lower-pressure areas. ( think of it like a fan blowing back on the wall ) Working with all of this the sand is packed with a vibrator pushing all the grains closer like a retaining wall . This aids in keeping the sand in place and mixing with the metal.
For a crane, a simple solution is a lever on a pivoting/rotating post. A post in the ground with a pipe that can hinge like a teater totter. Depending on the length/ratio at the pivot, you can counterweight it for balance and ease of use. If you sink a pipe in and flush with the ground (maybe in concrete) such that the vertical crane post can slip into it, the whole thing can be removed for storage. So now it can both teeter and rotate 360 degrees. You can lift your crucible and even your flask to dump it anywhere 360 degrees within the reach of your lifting arm. The biggest boost to your casting process right now would be to build a vibe table for your flask. Just a platform on stiff springs you can sit you flask on. Attach your concrete vibrator to the platform and you can prepare multiple flasks in addition to or instead of multiple patterns in a single flask. You'll thank yourself. Best, Kelly
Always great advice! Thank you. Definitely have to work on both ideas. I was surprised with just banging the sand with a stick how we'll it worked, although took a lot of effort. The crane is on the task to do . Seemingly the pours are getting bigger and bigger these days and I want some distance from the lift.
🎉
Nice! Great video
Thanks Hana, your in the draw
gantry style engine lift could work fine for your crane - you can make it longish or you can build one easily out of unistrut and use dc powered car or hand cranked trailer wenches for lifting - you can get wheeled carrier points that ride inside the strut like a regular ibeam trolley crane
That's a good thought. Thanks
Hi Ryan, great Job!
Thanks frank! I will put you in for the draw for it as well :)
Those turned out awsome !!
Thanks tharon
Looks real good 👍
Thank you
I was wondering why you don't put the coating on the back of the foam cast ? Does it help thanks
Good question , its simple realy the back is never seen :)
@@Wrighmachining I was worried the sand would cave in and hurt the mold
‼️Nice‼️
Thanks buddy
Nice job
Thanks rev, I'll put you in the draw for the sign :)
Im confused how dry sand with no packing worked so well. Can someone explain?
It's mind-blowing for sure! I was skeptical as well. So here is how I understand it. The metal replaces the sand exactly as it melts the foam. The pressure from the metal pushes back on the walls or keeps the voids in place. This is why if you stop pouring and it surges into the mold and the walls collapse or push in if it isn't immediately replaced you get defects. While all this is happening the gasses are pushed through the sand as well trying to escape to lower-pressure areas. ( think of it like a fan blowing back on the wall )
Working with all of this the sand is packed with a vibrator pushing all the grains closer like a retaining wall . This aids in keeping the sand in place and mixing with the metal.
Intresting. Thanks for explaining that.
As epumas que voce uza e a mesma que vem atras da geladeira
Yes, the sprue is cheap foam and the parts are from house foam insolation.
Stirofom?
Basically yes. The insolation foam is more dense and doesn't have the small balls that will cause defects in the casting
tie-ota?
Toyota, boom your in the draw :)