Thanks for sharing. Good road test! Fun to see you had a backup car in the end! When driving here in Scandinavia I take into consideration quite a few parameters when guestimating my range of 707km (100% charge): 1-passengers 2-baggage (start/end -ie shopping) 3-max and avg speeds 4-drive mode (earth, fun, hyper) 5-outdoor temperature 6-precipitation (snow, rain, dry) 7-wind direction (headwinds, tailwinds) 8-road inclination (flat, mountainous) 9-aircon 10-open windows 11-audio media 12-regen mode (soft/hard) 13-tire rubbers (winter/summer) 14-straigh/fast/curvy/city/slow roads I don't think the current software takes all these inputs into consideration when starting/planning a journey 🤓😄 Each driver style, situation and environment is naturally different. But what you experienced is more or less what I would expect on generally flat, fast roads, w/ passenger, aircon. 👍 I wish that future software would also learn from a driver's profile a more bespoke and precise prediction/calculation. Maybe airplane software is the future 😆 Sadly the pre-flight checks are still too long! fuel, passengers, cargo, winds, elevation... hot towel anyone? 🙏
Yep. This range test was a round trip on the same road on the same day. So hopefully, if there was any tail wind one way, it would be a headwind the other way.
Tron, I am a FOO owner since September in Norway. On 22 inch rims I got the same range as you last weekend based on my odometer going south from Oslo to our summer place - mainly highway driving, however 535 km range going south and 505 km going back in 15 degrees C sunny weather north to Oslo. I capped my speed at 100 km/hr. (Elevation difference is 70 meters). In winter time going to the mountains for skiing range is between 410 and 430 km - obviously with much more elevation and on 20 inch winter tires. Thanks for your insight about the odometer not measuring the distance accurately. Is this the case with all FOOs or only yours? Also great to learn about the 13,9% energy loss between actually received into the battery vs delivered from your charger. Very educational and interesting indeed. I also had a Model Y LR before my FOO - and experienced better milage - my perception being that my FOO is materially more thirsty than the 20% that your comparison show. I very much liked your previous video on the FOO - sharing your experience as FOO owner versus the typical UA-camr’s «reviews» which unfortunately have limited driving and owner experience with the vehicle and the software. Keep new videos coming, great value for us as FOO owners!
@@BjarneLauritzBull-Berg Very cool that you got the same range as me. As far as I understand from reading a little on the Internet, it seems like the odometer discrepancy is common, at least in USA with miles. Maybe it's better when it's in KM. I figured that was why the kWh/mi disappeared from the odometer page when we got 2.0. I never had a model Y myself, so I had to use numbers I could find on the Internet. I felt that Out of Spec Reviews always do a good job in their testing, so I figured I'd use their findings for comparison. Thanks for the support! 🫡✨
@pinguposse, I completely agree. Having the variables accounted for in regards to calculations would be handy. I can't imagine the spreadsheet that would entail all those variables. 😬🫣😂 Thanks for the support and well thought comment! ✨🫡💫
Thanks for the math. Good for you having driven over 12,000 miles. Was earth mode the right right way to go? On a personal trip I was able to get FREE charging staying overnight at a city owned parking lot I had to use at our hotel. I equate that to a free tank of gas or a value of $75.
@redstaper2414 It's awesome with free charging. A colleague of mine always charges his car with his portable charger when he rents an Air B&B. I hope Earth mode was the right choice. At least it's supposed to be the most efficient, since it only uses the front motor unless you really step on it, plus the A/C is in a more energy efficient mode. Fun and Hyper will always use both front and rear motors when accelerating, which should equate to a higher energy usage. On a different note, I read that Mercedes had come up with test results where automatic Regen, like one pedal driving, wasn't necessarily the most efficient way. This is because every time you either use or generate electricity, you also have a loss. So in some situations costing instead of Regen when lifting the foot from the accelerator should be beneficial. I don't know great this benefit is and, I'm guessing mainly if driving on roads with very little traffic. If you have to constantly change your speed to match other cars, I still think Regen is the better way. Thanks for the question and support! ✨🫡
Thanks for the info Tron. Question: A Ultra on 2.0 is my first EV. Can I leave it trickle charging for 2 months? Will the 12V be fine or will I find a brick when I go to drive it again?
That's a good question. I'm guessing you are talking trickle charging the 12V battery. As far as I understand, the main reason for the vampire drain of the high voltage battery, is because it has to maintain the 12V battery, which gets used to run if not all, at least the majority of all the accessories in the car, and many of those wake up now and then to suck the life out of the 12V battery. Earlier we lost 3%-4% a day, and currently I believe that the drain is about 1% a day. So in reality, your car should lose about 60% of the high voltage battery in 2 months. Having said that, I believe a trickle charge of the 12V battery should be able to keep the vampire drain to a absolute minimum. Personally, if I was leaving my Ocean in my garage for a couple of months, I'd probably choose to just leave it plugged in to my level 2 charger, and let the computer handle the distribution of energy. There is a chance that a trickle charge of the 12V battery, could send confusing signals to the computer, causing other problems, but I think the chances of this is very low though. I know that many people do use trickle chargers, as a remnant from software version 1.11 and older, and I think they do so without any issues. So a trickle charge of the 12V battery for a couple of months, would probably not be a bad idea.
Nice video. I went back in your video and the starting odometer reading was 11,364, ended at 11,643? Actual miles driven was 297? Is that slightly off as well? Or just the video timing?
Sorry, but your test is really not good. The main problem is your speed. You should not ride over 60 MPH to compare with manufacturer 360 mi. I drive Tesla m3 and Genesis GV60 and over 60 MPH, the range decrease drastically.
Thanks for sharing. Good road test! Fun to see you had a backup car in the end!
When driving here in Scandinavia I take into consideration quite a few parameters when guestimating my range of 707km (100% charge):
1-passengers
2-baggage (start/end -ie shopping)
3-max and avg speeds
4-drive mode (earth, fun, hyper)
5-outdoor temperature
6-precipitation (snow, rain, dry)
7-wind direction (headwinds, tailwinds)
8-road inclination (flat, mountainous)
9-aircon
10-open windows
11-audio media
12-regen mode (soft/hard)
13-tire rubbers (winter/summer)
14-straigh/fast/curvy/city/slow roads
I don't think the current software takes all these inputs into consideration when starting/planning a journey 🤓😄
Each driver style, situation and environment is naturally different. But what you experienced is more or less what I would expect on generally flat, fast roads, w/ passenger, aircon. 👍
I wish that future software would also learn from a driver's profile a more bespoke and precise prediction/calculation.
Maybe airplane software is the future 😆 Sadly the pre-flight checks are still too long! fuel, passengers, cargo, winds, elevation... hot towel anyone? 🙏
Cars need airspeed sensors for accurate range estimates. Wind makes a big difference at highway speeds and can change.
Yep. This range test was a round trip on the same road on the same day. So hopefully, if there was any tail wind one way, it would be a headwind the other way.
Tron, I am a FOO owner since September in Norway. On 22 inch rims I got the same range as you last weekend based on my odometer going south from Oslo to our summer place - mainly highway driving, however 535 km range going south and 505 km going back in 15 degrees C sunny weather north to Oslo. I capped my speed at 100 km/hr. (Elevation difference is 70 meters). In winter time going to the mountains for skiing range is between 410 and 430 km - obviously with much more elevation and on 20 inch winter tires. Thanks for your insight about the odometer not measuring the distance accurately. Is this the case with all FOOs or only yours? Also great to learn about the 13,9% energy loss between actually received into the battery vs delivered from your charger. Very educational and interesting indeed. I also had a Model Y LR before my FOO - and experienced better milage - my perception being that my FOO is materially more thirsty than the 20% that your comparison show. I very much liked your previous video on the FOO - sharing your experience as FOO owner versus the typical UA-camr’s «reviews» which unfortunately have limited driving and owner experience with the vehicle and the software. Keep new videos coming, great value for us as FOO owners!
@@BjarneLauritzBull-Berg
Very cool that you got the same range as me.
As far as I understand from reading a little on the Internet, it seems like the odometer discrepancy is common, at least in USA with miles. Maybe it's better when it's in KM.
I figured that was why the kWh/mi disappeared from the odometer page when we got 2.0.
I never had a model Y myself, so I had to use numbers I could find on the Internet. I felt that Out of Spec Reviews always do a good job in their testing, so I figured I'd use their findings for comparison. Thanks for the support! 🫡✨
@pinguposse, I completely agree. Having the variables accounted for in regards to calculations would be handy. I can't imagine the spreadsheet that would entail all those variables. 😬🫣😂
Thanks for the support and well thought comment! ✨🫡💫
Thanks for the math. Good for you having driven over 12,000 miles. Was earth mode the right right way to go?
On a personal trip I was able to get FREE charging staying overnight at a city owned parking lot I had to use at our hotel. I equate that to a free tank of gas or a value of $75.
@redstaper2414 It's awesome with free charging. A colleague of mine always charges his car with his portable charger when he rents an Air B&B.
I hope Earth mode was the right choice. At least it's supposed to be the most efficient, since it only uses the front motor unless you really step on it, plus the A/C is in a more energy efficient mode.
Fun and Hyper will always use both front and rear motors when accelerating, which should equate to a higher energy usage.
On a different note, I read that Mercedes had come up with test results where automatic Regen, like one pedal driving, wasn't necessarily the most efficient way. This is because every time you either use or generate electricity, you also have a loss.
So in some situations costing instead of Regen when lifting the foot from the accelerator should be beneficial.
I don't know great this benefit is and, I'm guessing mainly if driving on roads with very little traffic. If you have to constantly change your speed to match other cars, I still think Regen is the better way.
Thanks for the question and support! ✨🫡
that's pretty scary got me worried for a minute. thanks for sharing
@dvdsteve40.... Well, it got me worried for several minutes... And miles. 😂😂😂🫣
Thanks for the comment and support. ✨🫡
Thanks for the info Tron. Question: A Ultra on 2.0 is my first EV. Can I leave it trickle charging for 2 months? Will the 12V be fine or will I find a brick when I go to drive it again?
That's a good question.
I'm guessing you are talking trickle charging the 12V battery.
As far as I understand, the main reason for the vampire drain of the high voltage battery, is because it has to maintain the 12V battery, which gets used to run if not all, at least the majority of all the accessories in the car, and many of those wake up now and then to suck the life out of the 12V battery. Earlier we lost 3%-4% a day, and currently I believe that the drain is about 1% a day.
So in reality, your car should lose about 60% of the high voltage battery in 2 months.
Having said that, I believe a trickle charge of the 12V battery should be able to keep the vampire drain to a absolute minimum.
Personally, if I was leaving my Ocean in my garage for a couple of months, I'd probably choose to just leave it plugged in to my level 2 charger, and let the computer handle the distribution of energy.
There is a chance that a trickle charge of the 12V battery, could send confusing signals to the computer, causing other problems, but I think the chances of this is very low though.
I know that many people do use trickle chargers, as a remnant from software version 1.11 and older, and I think they do so without any issues. So a trickle charge of the 12V battery for a couple of months, would probably not be a bad idea.
Did you check tire pressures?
Nice video. I went back in your video and the starting odometer reading was 11,364, ended at 11,643? Actual miles driven was 297? Is that slightly off as well?
Or just the video timing?
Sorry, but your test is really not good. The main problem is your speed. You should not ride over 60 MPH to compare with manufacturer 360 mi. I drive Tesla m3 and Genesis GV60 and over 60 MPH, the range decrease drastically.
The whole point of the test was realistic speeds. The test was not only good, but really good.