It took me a while to learn the slow and steady approach. Otherwise you’re just playing blind pinball chasing temperatures. Spot on, clear and concise explanation George! You da man!
Great video. I learned this early on and started adjusting temp in small increments from around 120° till I get a slow increase towards around 186° target. If you wait till you hit the 173° you will over shoot and may get steam. Keep up the good work! Keep your airlock bubbling and your condenser dripping.
Hey George I'm in the process of building my pid, and I'm using one of those $7 small plastic ammo cases from harbor freight. Thought I'd share the idea with you.
I've been really lucky with my set up. Induction cook top and what I do is preheat to 160 on an open burner with the dome installed. Then move it to the induction plate. It stays perfectly balanced after that. Start to finish
I use the analogy of driving a car. You need to apply some energy until the vehicle is nearly going as fast as you wanted to then you ease off. Same with a still. I know the point at which I need to back the flame way off so that the top of the column will balance out and start to run
With my reflux still I keep the power to the internal heater on max and then just adjust the water flow rate through the refux part and that forces the temperature at the top to stay where I want it. As things balance out I just adjust the water flow rate down. I never turn down the heat. With that said, I will try the slower approach just to see the difference.
Hi George, I'm Automation Engineer (PID & stuff) and I love what you're doing out there. Now, to the point. You will have your fluctuations as the delay in the process (your heat going up the still) will cause the Integral part to grow and those overshoot the target temp. One of thw way is to disable integral part until you'll get to +-5% of the target. However your approach with 2 targets will defenetly work in destination case, as the damage is made with over shooting rather that under... Great job and keep well!
I run propane currently and can confirm this result. I have since learned how my particular burner and thermometer react to inputs. Balancing is the key and like George says, it takes a real steady hand. Happy experimenting.
this wild fluctuation should only happen the first time you run your rig and only if you're really impatient. once the still is fully heated, you really shouldn't be changing the heat too much. note the highest heat setting that doesn't make you boil over and you can basically set it and let it run. that's not the only reason your temp at the condenser will shift hard tho. when all the foreshots fade off, you should naturally see a temp spike without adding heat. and heat spikes happen towards the end of the hearts run and into the tails run, as you start releasing more h2o in heavier azeotropes. you can use these spikes to determine where you want to place your cuts, as they completely coincide with the proof of the currently condensing vapors.
George steps up to the plate its a hard high fast ball he swings and wacks a homer right out of the park again. Great video buddy keep it up thank you for your service and for all of your great information.
George, first, I’d like to say I can’t believe I lived so close to you for almost 10 years and we never met!! BUT,... as for your analogy on letting your system get balanced out, I have something that might help. After over 25 years in the air conditioning field when I have customers standing over my shoulder watching me balance their refrigerant levels in their system I explain it to them like this: suppose you were at the lazy river of a water park and looking down from a drone or a helicopter. And you wanted to dye the river blue. So you pour in a 5 gallon bucket of the most concentrated blue dye you could find. It would start as this almost black blob that would slowly make its way around the river slowly expanding and starting to turn purple. Then lighter and lighter until finally the whole river is one color. At this “balanced point you could tell if you needed more dye! But not until you let it balance out to see what your added 5 gallons of intervention had done to the whole river!” Anyway. I’m greatful for your wisdom and advice!! Keep on trucking’ brother!! I’ll be watching and learning!! Thanks again!!
Some additional points George pointed out in a previous video were get to 80 and balance, then 125 and balance, then to 145 for your heads. After heads get to 168 and balance, then 179 and up which should be good hearts range. Stop around 204 if you don’t intend to re-distill tails. Results may vary, if something wise works for you then (by golly) do it. Thanks George!
I think you could visualise this quite nicely by adding 3 (bottom of the pot, near the top of the pot and the top of the condenser intake) temperature sensors to your big blue still, that way you can show how temperature gradients work and what kind of delay you can expect. I know that for normal running there is no need for that but I think it would be a great education video.
I added up all the parts and watched all the videos on how to build a PID. Then considering my skill set, and very small additional dollar amount and shipping, I figured it was better to buy one from George. I'm so glad I did. It runs perfectly and it was set up and ready to go right out of the box. Thank you George, and thanks again for your videos sir!
I do not control my (homemade still)heating either, instead I fitted a 1/4" dia small diameter copper coil roll, horizontally inside top of column just below my outlet(packed around it with copper mesh to fill space), its connected along with a cooling water loop on outside of my stainless column at midway up.(first baffles and more copper mesh layers are there). Water feeds to mid circuit then thru inside coil, then to waste, waste has a temperature thermometer. By adjusting a very fine tap in supply water , i set waste outlet temp to 77-78 deg c. Once stable I never have to adjust it again thru the run. I only have one thermostat (at base of column)controlling the bigger one of my 2 elements (1.5 +2.3kw) set to 95 degs, to stop any further rise, should i get distracted and not spot run is over.(i only check still every 20 minutes once stabilized) run takes 3 hours to go thru once flowing (50 - 60 liters of mash). Product is usually 80- 82% for the bulk of run(corrected) , or up to 88% if run twice twice.( i also watch mash temperature, flow starts at 80, and is finished at 90-92deg, When down to 60-65 % and very slow flow) Just finished 2 runs, and kept figures for both, having done some internal mods before running.
No need for any temperature gauges ... heating my mash 1500 W heater for an hour and 10 minutes ( 19 L boiler ) I turn my heat down to half ( true diode ) after product start coming out . Taking first little bit out and collect after that ( about 4 hrs ) down to 40 % . 2" pipe needs about 750 W to run .... As mash alcohol content gets lower temperature slowly goes up .....
Then t hen the PID DO IT FOR U IN TIME👍... Great to hear about Mike love it ,u the man George... u ever up around Gainsville TX come see us I can’t travel any more God Bless ever one in the world say something kindor do something nice 👍🙏
William Elliott hello mike I wish u the best George is a super man and a great teacher, he can make it happen with a little him from the public... if we had more people in the world like him there would no bad guys... I got hurt on job in 1982 I operated heavy equipment and drove truck all over America.. mike I do feel sorry for myself a lot of time, but when I here others I don’t have no problems... I do think that being blind is got to be the worst of worst.. my Bible says that are eyes are one of the most precious gift other than his son Jesus Christ... We are neighbors my friend lol I live in Whitesboro Tx just east of a Gainesvile Tx and west Sherman Tx at half way point.. hope we can all get together someday and talk about are hobbies.. Mike I wish u the best 🙏👍👍 u are a trooper.
@@countryboycharlie9793 I agree Mike is a chanp. I am disabled also. I drove trucks and operated equipment all my life. I grew up in Denison TX. Now live on a small 10 acre little farm in Alvord. I would love to meet up withlike minded hobbiest and enjoy some good conversation. I'm a beginner and moving slowly. I have listened and learned much from George as well as Still it. Thanks for your reply.
I use propane and found running the kettle at 92 - 96 C and don’t altered it even on the heat up and running this gives you a temp at the top of the column of 82 - 86 C, my theory is why boil off the water and have had great results, l shut it down when starts spiking to around 92 C at the column, checking the alcohol it’s still coming off at around 140 proof, because your not boiling off the water
Yeah, this is why my Mash & Boil wont/doesn't work, it drops 5 degrees before it starts heating up again. Was hoping the transition from home brewing would work.
Very well explained and I learned this very long ago,using propane just a small amount first until it equalize then you can turn the flame up and wait again. So on and soforth. Thanks...
So if you run propane sorta low so it wouldn’t start distilling but just gets everything from the bottom to the top heated up to around 130 and then slowly increase the propane ever so slightly until target temp?
High george, love your videos very informative, i would like to built my still, Ware do you get a column, keep the videos coming, seems we can’t get enough of them. Thanks again.
When you say "turn it on and let it balance" do you mean set the burner to a "maintaining temperature" setting and wait for it to stop going up or down? I use propane and just made my first run and I now realize that I was chasing the temperature.
Hey George, I started tinkering with this hobby. This is a timely subject that I was thinking about last night and boom, there it is, your talking about my thoughts and issues. Many thanks and more input please.
Hey George, this may not be the right thought process, but I am an engineering student who has done some work with PIDs in lab settings, including coding their algorithms to output directions. It would seem to me that if the PID is under and overshooting the setpoint temperature, it is because the coefficients on the different parts of control (proportional, integral, derivative) are not tuned to the specific use case. I know there is some software out there that can tune these parameters automatically to optimize the control. Is this the correct thought process? could this issue be solved by tuning?
So when you heat up your still to balance it do you leave the product valve open or are you balancing it air tight valve closed . thanks for the vid . Peace.
Man, I love this Channel. You are so knowledgeable and helpful and kind, I’m very glad I found you. I never understood the temperature Issue until I watch this video. Thanks
Why not try this. Bring up tank temp approaching 100-110 on propane. Turn down propane. Turn on 1600w in tank ac heater connected to ac controller (motor speed). Let temp stabilize. Turn off propane and use in tank heater to bring it up to temp using controller to adjust temp. Leave it alone when you reach balances you desire. This should keep temp stable through hearts then turn it up if you want. Just a thought to consider. This is only theoretical. It is only based on reading comments not actual utilization of process since I am too old to try making happy water. Really enjoy your videos.
The most of the PID have an learning mode >see the manual< so you must enter the first one when all is cold touch the AT mode - it will learn not to overpass the next destilation
curious question: why not insulate the column to speed up the heating? surely some energy is lost upon contact with the cooler column no? maybe even a small column heater- bring the column up to say 140 and wait til the still catches up and then let the still drive the column?...just thinkin
Would installing a couple of ports with some hose and hi-temp pump allow to recirculate the liquid in the kettle help to stabilize the temps more quickly? Like a whirlpool port on a boil kettle?
Science is in total agreement with you George. The same laws that you are describing that are unfolding before our eyes in a still are exactly the same laws that govern the universe.
George I am using an electric kettle drum on my pot still but it is either ON or OFF. Will a PID be able to give me the control I need to balance my temperature in my Still or do I need a better heat source?
......as the condenser stars flowing , it takes away heat . Boyle ' s 3rd law of thermodynamics . ...or was it the 2nd ? Anyhoo , that gets to the hunt and seek routine . A point to add to your site .
i am a year late here..after about 30 gallons of fighting temp using propane...i made the end of the still,where the ethanol comes out smaller...it changed the entire way the still runs.the temp is steady and slow.the popping and spitting never happens at any fire rate.its amazing..i hope this helps someone
I used ceramic balls in the base of my column. Heat doesn't transfer past them as it does copper. I use the top of my pot temp gage instead of my column temp gage to cut foreshots, heads etc. I may try it with copper rings or pads next time and see if I can equalize the temps. Thanks for the info.
Thanks George, This is an eye-opener for me. I would run my still looking at the temperature at the top and not realizing that the temperature in my pot was way hotter. So as it would overshoot it would force some vapor out past the condenser, so I was losing product. Thanks for the phone call this morning, that really clear things up.
Same price: $185 for the 120 Volt and $215 for the 220 Volt (UK plug ). You pay shipping. Send me an email and I will send you an invoice you can pay on line and I will build, test, ship within 48 hours. email is: george.duncan76@gmail.com George
Why don't you have a stirring device to keep temps relatively uniform in the fluid by mixing all temp variations to minimize the temperature lag? OR monitor temperature in various sections of the still to predict all the temperature lags.
Just made my first heat up on my new still and ran vinegar and water. Wow, does this vid make sense! Thanks so very much George. When are you gonna use one of those guitars that I have seen in the background in one of your intros?
Would it be logical to heat just the body of the still without the column on top until the still and contents reach, say 135 degrees? Then install the column and avoid chasing the temps?
Well, I did my first run ever and thanks to you George, it was a complete success. Now I have a shelf full of 130 proof from a simple sugar wash. Thanks so much for your knowledge.
Just used my pid for the first time today. Worked great!! So much easier than using the mile hi controller. This was only my second run ever and it has turned out amazing! I have learned so much from watching your videos, thank you George!!I have a 90/10 barley/corn almost done fermenting and a rum wash that just started fermenting. Looking forward to running those. Such a fun hobby but not cheap. 😎
Not buyin' what you're sellin' George. The method you teach is unnecessary and overly complicated. Much easier to simply apply the power you need to get the result you want. Get the wash up to heat. When you feel the top of the riser/column getting warm, start lowering the power a bit. Collect fores at a slow drip, heads at a slightly faster drip, hearts at a broken stream, and crank it up a bit for tails. Use a PID controller for brewing beer and a power controller for stillin'. Makes things much simpler.
That's why he repeatedly tells us this is not the only way. There is 100 other ways, this is just what works for him. Since I'm 100% new at this I appreciate him "dumbing" it down for me. If it doesn't work for you then kindly move on. It's not that hard.
YOU explain this stuff so good a caveman could do it.. GREAT VIDEO
jbrunson1949
.Ogg make grog.
It took me a while to learn the slow and steady approach. Otherwise you’re just playing blind pinball chasing temperatures. Spot on, clear and concise explanation George! You da man!
George will steer you in the right direction everytime.
New here, what if your still doesn't produce unless it's about 190?+
Mine doesn't either. Following
Great video. I learned this early on and started adjusting temp in small increments from around 120° till I get a slow increase towards around 186° target. If you wait till you hit the 173° you will over shoot and may get steam. Keep up the good work! Keep your airlock bubbling and your condenser dripping.
Hey George I'm in the process of building my pid, and I'm using one of those $7 small plastic ammo cases from harbor freight. Thought I'd share the idea with you.
I've been really lucky with my set up. Induction cook top and what I do is preheat to 160 on an open burner with the dome installed. Then move it to the induction plate. It stays perfectly balanced after that. Start to finish
I have never chased temperature. As long as it’s above 165 I’m golden and doing off of taste.
I use the analogy of driving a car. You need to apply some energy until the vehicle is nearly going as fast as you wanted to then you ease off. Same with a still. I know the point at which I need to back the flame way off so that the top of the column will balance out and start to run
Peter Schuldt truth
With my reflux still I keep the power to the internal heater on max and then just adjust the water flow rate through the refux part and that forces the temperature at the top to stay where I want it. As things balance out I just adjust the water flow rate down. I never turn down the heat. With that said, I will try the slower approach just to see the difference.
Hi George, I'm Automation Engineer (PID & stuff) and I love what you're doing out there. Now, to the point. You will have your fluctuations as the delay in the process (your heat going up the still) will cause the Integral part to grow and those overshoot the target temp. One of thw way is to disable integral part until you'll get to +-5% of the target. However your approach with 2 targets will defenetly work in destination case, as the damage is made with over shooting rather that under...
Great job and keep well!
Explains why some of my running worked better than others slow win the race
I run propane currently and can confirm this result. I have since learned how my particular burner and thermometer react to inputs. Balancing is the key and like George says, it takes a real steady hand. Happy experimenting.
this wild fluctuation should only happen the first time you run your rig and only if you're really impatient. once the still is fully heated, you really shouldn't be changing the heat too much. note the highest heat setting that doesn't make you boil over and you can basically set it and let it run. that's not the only reason your temp at the condenser will shift hard tho. when all the foreshots fade off, you should naturally see a temp spike without adding heat. and heat spikes happen towards the end of the hearts run and into the tails run, as you start releasing more h2o in heavier azeotropes. you can use these spikes to determine where you want to place your cuts, as they completely coincide with the proof of the currently condensing vapors.
George steps up to the plate its a hard high fast ball he swings and wacks a homer right out of the park again. Great video buddy keep it up thank you for your service and for all of your great information.
Too Kind sir.
Appreciate the comment and the baseball analogy
George
George, first, I’d like to say I can’t believe I lived so close to you for almost 10 years and we never met!! BUT,... as for your analogy on letting your system get balanced out, I have something that might help. After over 25 years in the air conditioning field when I have customers standing over my shoulder watching me balance their refrigerant levels in their system I explain it to them like this: suppose you were at the lazy river of a water park and looking down from a drone or a helicopter. And you wanted to dye the river blue. So you pour in a 5 gallon bucket of the most concentrated blue dye you could find. It would start as this almost black blob that would slowly make its way around the river slowly expanding and starting to turn purple. Then lighter and lighter until finally the whole river is one color. At this “balanced point you could tell if you needed more dye! But not until you let it balance out to see what your added 5 gallons of intervention had done to the whole river!” Anyway. I’m greatful for your wisdom and advice!! Keep on trucking’ brother!! I’ll be watching and learning!! Thanks again!!
Great analogy and easy to picture. I may use that.
Love you George. Always on point with advice.
Wouldn’t it be better if the temp probe was in the liquid?
Some additional points George pointed out in a previous video were get to 80 and balance, then 125 and balance, then to 145 for your heads. After heads get to 168 and balance, then 179 and up which should be good hearts range. Stop around 204 if you don’t intend to re-distill tails. Results may vary, if something wise works for you then (by golly) do it. Thanks George!
I think you could visualise this quite nicely by adding 3 (bottom of the pot, near the top of the pot and the top of the condenser intake) temperature sensors to your big blue still, that way you can show how temperature gradients work and what kind of delay you can expect. I know that for normal running there is no need for that but I think it would be a great education video.
Martin P. Hellwig I bet if George asked for it, someone would lend him a thermal imaging camera for the job which would make a really cool video!
I added up all the parts and watched all the videos on how to build a PID. Then considering my skill set, and very small additional dollar amount and shipping, I figured it was better to buy one from George. I'm so glad I did. It runs perfectly and it was set up and ready to go right out of the box. Thank you George, and thanks again for your videos sir!
Great to hear!
I do not control my (homemade still)heating either, instead I fitted a 1/4" dia small diameter copper coil roll, horizontally inside top of column just below my outlet(packed around it with copper mesh to fill space), its connected along with a cooling water loop on outside of my stainless column at midway up.(first baffles and more copper mesh layers are there).
Water feeds to mid circuit then thru inside coil, then to waste, waste has a temperature thermometer.
By adjusting a very fine tap in supply water , i set waste outlet temp to 77-78 deg c. Once stable I never have to adjust it again thru the run.
I only have one thermostat (at base of column)controlling the bigger one of my 2 elements (1.5 +2.3kw) set to 95 degs, to stop any further rise, should i get distracted and not spot run is over.(i only check still every 20 minutes once stabilized) run takes 3 hours to go thru once flowing (50 - 60 liters of mash). Product is usually 80- 82% for the bulk of run(corrected) , or up to 88% if run twice twice.( i also watch mash temperature, flow starts at 80, and is finished at 90-92deg, When down to 60-65 % and very slow flow)
Just finished 2 runs, and kept figures for both, having done some internal mods before running.
Would a heat resistant blanket minimize the temperature swings? If so, is there one that you recommend?
No need for any temperature gauges ... heating my mash 1500 W heater for an hour and 10 minutes ( 19 L boiler ) I turn my heat down to half ( true diode ) after product start coming out . Taking first little bit out and collect after that ( about 4 hrs ) down to 40 % .
2" pipe needs about 750 W to run ....
As mash alcohol content gets lower temperature slowly goes up .....
Then t hen the PID DO IT FOR U IN TIME👍... Great to hear about Mike love it ,u the man George... u ever up around Gainsville TX come see us I can’t travel any more God Bless ever one in the world say something kindor do something nice 👍🙏
I'm from Alvord near Decatur Tx
William Elliott hello mike I wish u the best George is a super man and a great teacher, he can make it happen with a little him from the public... if we had more people in the world like him there would no bad guys... I got hurt on job in 1982 I operated heavy equipment and drove truck all over America.. mike I do feel sorry for myself a lot of time, but when I here others I don’t have no problems... I do think that being blind is got to be the worst of worst.. my Bible says that are eyes are one of the most precious gift other than his son Jesus Christ... We are neighbors my friend lol I live in Whitesboro Tx just east of a Gainesvile Tx and west Sherman Tx at half way point.. hope we can all get together someday and talk about are hobbies.. Mike I wish u the best 🙏👍👍 u are a trooper.
@@countryboycharlie9793 I agree Mike is a chanp. I am disabled also. I drove trucks and operated equipment all my life. I grew up in Denison TX. Now live on a small 10 acre little farm in Alvord. I would love to meet up withlike minded hobbiest and enjoy some good conversation. I'm a beginner and moving slowly. I have listened and learned much from George as well as Still it. Thanks for your reply.
Great content and advice as always.
I use propane and found running the kettle at 92 - 96 C and don’t altered it even on the heat up and running this gives you a temp at the top of the column of 82 - 86 C, my theory is why boil off the water and have had great results, l shut it down when starts spiking to around 92 C at the column, checking the alcohol it’s still coming off at around 140 proof, because your not boiling off the water
You could have just said bring the temperature up slowly...keep it simple.
Yeah, this is why my Mash & Boil wont/doesn't work, it drops 5 degrees before it starts heating up again. Was hoping the transition from home brewing would work.
Very well explained and I learned this very long ago,using propane just a small amount first until it equalize then you can turn the flame up and wait again. So on and soforth. Thanks...
So if you run propane sorta low so it wouldn’t start distilling but just gets everything from the bottom to the top heated up to around 130 and then slowly increase the propane ever so slightly until target temp?
I've figured out how to make the ultimate temperature control still. Not sure if I want to go into details before patenting it.
I am so glad that I’m watching these videos! George is worth his weight in gold and I appreciate him! Thank you!!!
Hey bud I just bought a brewhaus 15 gallon 3in. Tower wat would u use for heat
So glad I subscribed! Thank you sir!
Very opportune time for me watching this, first test for the new PID today, thanks George, much appreciated
High george, love your videos very informative, i would like to built my still, Ware do you get a column, keep the videos coming, seems we can’t get enough of them. Thanks again.
Wow! This solved my problems. Thank you!
Do I leave the temperature at 150 untill all the ethanol has evaporated and then turn it higher for the hearts?
Awesome explanation..very good indeed..
1st time last night and now this makes sense. Lol. Live and learn
When you say "turn it on and let it balance" do you mean set the burner to a "maintaining temperature" setting and wait for it to stop going up or down? I use propane and just made my first run and I now realize that I was chasing the temperature.
Yes. Let it settle first.
George
Great video!
Convection currents are part of the story too. I bet there are
convection currents in the column as well. :)
Hey George, I started tinkering with this hobby. This is a timely subject that I was thinking about last night and boom, there it is, your talking about my thoughts and issues. Many thanks and more input please.
Awesome. Stay tuned for more to come.
George
Hey George, this may not be the right thought process, but I am an engineering student who has done some work with PIDs in lab settings, including coding their algorithms to output directions. It would seem to me that if the PID is under and overshooting the setpoint temperature, it is because the coefficients on the different parts of control (proportional, integral, derivative) are not tuned to the specific use case. I know there is some software out there that can tune these parameters automatically to optimize the control.
Is this the correct thought process? could this issue be solved by tuning?
exactly. too much integral or not enough proportional.
Great Video. Makes sense. Slow and steady will win.
So when you heat up your still to balance it do you leave the product valve open or are you balancing it air tight valve closed . thanks for the vid . Peace.
You should never heat or cool your still without a place for the pressure or vacuum to release, it can cause damage to your still
Slow and steady wins the race.
Man, I love this Channel. You are so knowledgeable and helpful and kind, I’m very glad I found you. I never understood the temperature Issue until I watch this video. Thanks
Why not try this. Bring up tank temp approaching 100-110 on propane. Turn down propane. Turn on 1600w in tank ac heater connected to ac controller (motor speed). Let temp stabilize. Turn off propane and use in tank heater to bring it up to temp using controller to adjust temp. Leave it alone when you reach balances you desire.
This should keep temp stable through hearts then turn it up if you want. Just a thought to consider. This is only theoretical. It is only based on reading comments not actual utilization of process since I am too old to try making happy water.
Really enjoy your videos.
The most of the PID have an learning mode >see the manual< so you must enter the first one when all is cold touch the AT mode - it will learn not to overpass the next destilation
curious question: why not insulate the column to speed up the heating? surely some energy is lost upon contact with the cooler column no? maybe even a small column heater- bring the column up to say 140 and wait til the still catches up and then let the still drive the column?...just thinkin
Would installing a couple of ports with some hose and hi-temp pump allow to recirculate the liquid in the kettle help to stabilize the temps more quickly? Like a whirlpool port on a boil kettle?
Science is in total agreement with you George. The same laws that you are describing that are unfolding before our eyes in a still are exactly the same laws that govern the universe.
George I am using an electric kettle drum on my pot still but it is either ON or OFF. Will a PID be able to give me the control I need to balance my temperature in my Still or do I need a better heat source?
......as the condenser stars flowing , it takes away heat . Boyle ' s 3rd law of thermodynamics . ...or was it the 2nd ? Anyhoo , that gets to the hunt and seek routine . A point to add to your site .
i am a year late here..after about 30 gallons of fighting temp using propane...i made the end of the still,where the ethanol comes out smaller...it changed the entire way the still runs.the temp is steady and slow.the popping and spitting never happens at any fire rate.its amazing..i hope this helps someone
I used ceramic balls in the base of my column. Heat doesn't transfer past them as it does copper. I use the top of my pot temp gage instead of my column temp gage to cut foreshots, heads etc. I may try it with copper rings or pads next time and see if I can equalize the temps. Thanks for the info.
I think the term your searching for concerning energy transfer is that in the context of an ethyl alcohol still
”It’s Not Intuitive”
On the theme of electric elements. Won't the mash solids adhere to the element and cause burning? You are the first person I've seen using electric.
I was right about to call then I finished the video lol
Another spot on explanation. George, you are a legend. Thank you friend!
Thanks George, This is an eye-opener for me. I would run my still looking at the temperature at the top and not realizing that the temperature in my pot was way hotter. So as it would overshoot it would force some vapor out past the condenser, so I was losing product. Thanks for the phone call this morning, that really clear things up.
George the pid that you build and post I take it its only us not uk
It would work in the UK if I changed the receptacle.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing George what would be the cost for you to build one and send to the UK PLEASE
Same price: $185 for the 120 Volt and $215 for the 220 Volt (UK plug ). You pay shipping.
Send me an email and I will send you an invoice you can pay on line and I will build, test, ship within 48 hours.
email is: george.duncan76@gmail.com
George
Great videos George. Always helpful!
Why don't you have a stirring device to keep temps relatively uniform in the fluid by mixing all temp variations to minimize the temperature lag? OR monitor temperature in various sections of the still to predict all the temperature lags.
In large operations like 30 gallons or so this would be very helpful. In small home stills it is not as helpful since hte volume is so small.
Just made my first heat up on my new still and ran vinegar and water. Wow, does this vid make sense! Thanks so very much George. When are you gonna use one of those guitars that I have seen in the background in one of your intros?
Glad it helped!
Would it be logical to heat just the body of the still without the column on top until the still and contents reach, say 135 degrees? Then install the column and avoid chasing the temps?
In my opinion. No
Well, I did my first run ever and thanks to you George, it was a complete success. Now I have a shelf full of 130 proof from a simple sugar wash. Thanks so much for your knowledge.
WOW! This is amazing. It really is simple and I am happy with your success.
George
Very informative as are all your videos except us outside America don't understand old type measurements of temperature.
Easy to convert. I do this on most videos but not all. As I shoot a video I keep a cheat sheet with Metric vs Imperial measures close by to refer to.
Energy plus volume = temperature
can you put the heating element in the bottom of the pot with the element running toward the top?
Not sure I would but I guess you could.
Just used my pid for the first time today. Worked great!! So much easier than using the mile hi controller. This was only my second run ever and it has turned out amazing! I have learned so much from watching your videos, thank you George!!I have a 90/10 barley/corn almost done fermenting and a rum wash that just started fermenting. Looking forward to running those. Such a fun hobby but not cheap. 😎
Great to hear!
Obviously, no one here knows control theory, or how a PID loop should work.
Dave Pritchard No one here? Where is that exactly? UA-cam? USA? Planet Earth?
Can you explain it or provide source for me to learn?
Not buyin' what you're sellin' George. The method you teach is unnecessary and overly complicated. Much easier to simply apply the power you need to get the result you want.
Get the wash up to heat. When you feel the top of the riser/column getting warm, start lowering the power a bit. Collect fores at a slow drip, heads at a slightly faster drip, hearts at a broken stream, and crank it up a bit for tails. Use a PID controller for brewing beer and a power controller for stillin'. Makes things much simpler.
Okay
That's why he repeatedly tells us this is not the only way. There is 100 other ways, this is just what works for him. Since I'm 100% new at this I appreciate him "dumbing" it down for me. If it doesn't work for you then kindly move on. It's not that hard.
Great video - really explains balancing well. Thank you.