I think an OMP engineer or two will be devastated when they see you used Printer paper to set the mesh ^_^ Just FYI, they now call for .01 to .05 max. So basically just enough to barely feel the backlash, or opt for some zig-zags instead of printer paper. Nice build, thx for uploading this!
They don’t like me as it is lol I have used the paper trick for well over 20 years now! Never been a problem. Has always been the best way to set your mesh in my opinion.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 to be fair, most of the other brands already have most of their pasts preinstralled and assembled, so it just feels like there is less to do actually.
My man you sure do an awesome job building. Guy on UA-cam mentioned your channel. For your wiring work. He was a copy cat like me. LOL. Your hands bro, try Burts bee's hand salve. Works wonders. Keep on
Thank you! Heck yeah! Who was it? I am the original person to start with clean wiring, lol I’ve always looked at helicopters as an art piece not only do they have to fly perfect but they have to look good. I like to have the best of both worlds! I’ll look into that, work with my hands for a living and it’s been cold lol so they are dry.
Glad you assembled this machine. I haven't flown mine as of yet, but I find myself fiddling still with it. I have it setup to only run 6 to 8S(low head speed machine).. Oh, and I am curious to see how your skid tubes hold up... I love the belt tensioner.... Oh, and I am watching the video, so not sure if you will or will not, but can you cover the "extras" bag?.....
So far the build is very nice and smooth! Either there is a lot of features I do like about it. I am excited to buy it and see what everybody is talking about. The head design is great for low head speed and high head speed! I can, the extra bag with the different servo mounts and blade grip arms?
@westhobbiesrc8051 That was my reason for buying it also.I read online and people, including Bert in his video, were saying the build was awesome(which I do agree with..I enjoy a good build, as much as flying these days)... I was very curious also! And yes, the bag with the extra arms and other little items.. I know for myself, I didn't know(realize) some parts like the arms were in that bag. Or even more importantly, that there "was" a bag with optional parts, until I had certain things already built.. I would have put the other arms on.. The other thing I'm wondering about myself are the difference between the "in kit" items, and the competition items, and their differences.. I look forward to your part 3! Especially if you're using a brain/ikon in it once more..
hey friend, on one of your videos setting up the ikon, i followed all your steps but when i was flying the heli it turned to the left side almost upside down by himself and i couldn't control it, and crashed. what do you think happened?
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Thank You for responding back, i 'm using spektrum NX 8 and to be honest i'm still learning the set ups and your videos are very clear and detailed(Thank you for that) so i dont even know how to check frame loss or holds😂😂, i did set up a align trex 700 before with an Ikon 2 and it flies very nice, so i dont know what happened this time.
Hey Jeff, hope all is well. Had a question. What do you think about the fat boy blades I wanna put some on my RS five what would you think if I can find them?
Hi Jeff, my m7 tail feels notchy after a few dozen flights. Don't recall if it qas notchy when I built it. I did not use any extra shims. It looks like yours was smooth, no issues? Thanks!
Specifically I mean the tail spindle preload feels tight to where I feel notchy bearings, even with no extra shims added. Heli has a slight tail wag, so I've been going through the mechanicals again and this is the only binding point.
@@mikefuchs2814 Not entirely sure where my original comment went; however, the tightness/notchiness is normal when the heli is new, and the tail will have a bunch of preload. As long as that notchiness isn't really there when you are pulling outwards on the blade grips, you should be good to go. You can actually squeeze the ball links to loosen them up if you want your tail assembly to be looser. I have a video that shows how to loosen them here: ua-cam.com/video/-J6MXax_Bc8/v-deo.html
So far the town is very smooth. I ran into that issue on the M4 actually. And after I pulled it apart, a couple of times I found one bearing wasn’t seated all the way in properly, causing the tail to have excessive preload and gritty bearing feel. I would check that! Also, it could be just a bad bearing. And when it is tightened and pressure on it, you feel a bad spot in the bearing. Also, it is normal for the tail to be tight when you first put it together, but there should be no naughtiness or tightness into the tail itself.
I think an OMP engineer or two will be devastated when they see you used Printer paper to set the mesh ^_^
Just FYI, they now call for .01 to .05 max. So basically just enough to barely feel the backlash, or opt for some zig-zags instead of printer paper.
Nice build, thx for uploading this!
They don’t like me as it is lol I have used the paper trick for well over 20 years now! Never been a problem. Has always been the best way to set your mesh in my opinion.
Brilliant videos 👍👍👍
Thank you!
That's a really nice helicopter and Kontronik motor.
Thank you! But it’s a Xnova motor.
Hey Jeff, that M7 has a lot of parts what a PITA 🤪 Great job as usual Jeff 👍👍👍
Thank you! Yes, there is a lot of parts, it is definitely a more involved build just because of how many steps and parts there is.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 to be fair, most of the other brands already have most of their pasts preinstralled and assembled, so it just feels like there is less to do actually.
Awesome Job as always !!
We need "Loctite on our screw" T-shirts 😂
That’s a great idea!
Nice heli, Jeff. Waiting for maiden
Me too! I can’t wait to fly it!
Awesome video man.
Thank you!
My man you sure do an awesome job building. Guy on UA-cam mentioned your channel. For your wiring work. He was a copy cat like me. LOL.
Your hands bro, try Burts bee's hand salve. Works wonders. Keep on
Thank you! Heck yeah! Who was it? I am the original person to start with clean wiring, lol I’ve always looked at helicopters as an art piece not only do they have to fly perfect but they have to look good. I like to have the best of both worlds! I’ll look into that, work with my hands for a living and it’s been cold lol so they are dry.
Jeremy Harkins RC. He is rebuilding a T-Rex 700 gasser. Think it's the last video in the session. Think you will love the salve. LOL
Glad you assembled this machine. I haven't flown mine as of yet, but I find myself fiddling still with it. I have it setup to only run 6 to 8S(low head speed machine).. Oh, and I am curious to see how your skid tubes hold up... I love the belt tensioner.... Oh, and I am watching the video, so not sure if you will or will not, but can you cover the "extras" bag?.....
So far the build is very nice and smooth! Either there is a lot of features I do like about it. I am excited to buy it and see what everybody is talking about. The head design is great for low head speed and high head speed! I can, the extra bag with the different servo mounts and blade grip arms?
@westhobbiesrc8051 That was my reason for buying it also.I read online and people, including Bert in his video, were saying the build was awesome(which I do agree with..I enjoy a good build, as much as flying these days)... I was very curious also! And yes, the bag with the extra arms and other little items.. I know for myself, I didn't know(realize) some parts like the arms were in that bag. Or even more importantly, that there "was" a bag with optional parts, until I had certain things already built.. I would have put the other arms on.. The other thing I'm wondering about myself are the difference between the "in kit" items, and the competition items, and their differences.. I look forward to your part 3! Especially if you're using a brain/ikon in it once more..
hey friend, on one of your videos setting up the ikon, i followed all your steps but when i was flying the heli it turned to the left side almost upside down by himself and i couldn't control it, and crashed. what do you think happened?
Sounds like you lost radio. I would check if you had frame loss or holds, etc. depending on the radio system you were using.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Thank You for responding back, i 'm using spektrum NX 8 and to be honest i'm still learning the set ups and your videos are very clear and detailed(Thank you for that) so i dont even know how to check frame loss or holds😂😂, i did set up a align trex 700 before with an Ikon 2 and it flies very nice, so i dont know what happened this time.
M7 or iLGoblin for my next 700?
I can’t comment on the M7 but I LOVE the ILgoblin Pro!
Hey Jeff, hope all is well. Had a question. What do you think about the fat boy blades I wanna put some on my RS five what would you think if I can find them?
Hi Jeff, my m7 tail feels notchy after a few dozen flights. Don't recall if it qas notchy when I built it. I did not use any extra shims. It looks like yours was smooth, no issues? Thanks!
Specifically I mean the tail spindle preload feels tight to where I feel notchy bearings, even with no extra shims added. Heli has a slight tail wag, so I've been going through the mechanicals again and this is the only binding point.
@@mikefuchs2814 Not entirely sure where my original comment went; however, the tightness/notchiness is normal when the heli is new, and the tail will have a bunch of preload. As long as that notchiness isn't really there when you are pulling outwards on the blade grips, you should be good to go.
You can actually squeeze the ball links to loosen them up if you want your tail assembly to be looser. I have a video that shows how to loosen them here: ua-cam.com/video/-J6MXax_Bc8/v-deo.html
@@ck-rcawesome reply, thank you. Yes, when i pull out on the tail blades, it is smooth, not notchy.
@ck-rc I did loosen the ball links w pliers and that reduced the wag. I will ream them a bit more. Thank you!
So far the town is very smooth. I ran into that issue on the M4 actually. And after I pulled it apart, a couple of times I found one bearing wasn’t seated all the way in properly, causing the tail to have excessive preload and gritty bearing feel. I would check that! Also, it could be just a bad bearing. And when it is tightened and pressure on it, you feel a bad spot in the bearing. Also, it is normal for the tail to be tight when you first put it together, but there should be no naughtiness or tightness into the tail itself.