I do have something to share about this. On some systems, particularly mine, it may be wired where the keypad pulls it's power from the smoke detector reset relay. In this manner, the system would power cycle the keypad. Not all systems are wired this way, obviously. So, you may not always get a power cycle on the keypad during a smoke detector reset. Obviously, on this video, your keypad did not power cycle during the reset. And, that is completely normal. How do I know if the system is wired to power cycle the keypad during the smoke detector reset process?? If you hear a long beep from the keypad and the armed and ready lights alternate, and screen goes completely blank during the fire zones are resetting, that's your clues that your system is power cycling the keypad during the fire zone reset. This is something that some but not all installers do. Mine was done that way. Er well, my 6160, 6150, and 6460 power cycle during the smoke detector reset process. However, my 6280 touchscreen keypads and my 6139 keypad are wired through a supplemental power supply so, they don't power cycle however, vast majority of my keypads do power cycle during the smoke detector reset. But some systems are also wired to where the keypad doesn't power cycle during smoke detector reset, using your system as an example. But, if you do get a power cycle during your smoke reset, don't panic. That is completely normal. Now if the power continues to cycle, then check the wiring. But, panels power cycling the keypad during smoke detector reset? That is completely normal. Like I said, my alarm system does that.
@@fixitwithzim It all boils down to how the keypad is wired, where the keypad gets it's power from, how the system is programmed, and stuff like that. Smoke detectors. The ionization smoke detectors are not made anymore for systems because they take to activate if they do at all. Smoke enters the chamber and gets ionized and the charges jump the gap and discharges the smoke detector like a capacitor and the detector goes into alarm. They are better at detecting rapid flaming fires, think of dropping a lit match into gasoline for example. That is the type of smoke that ionization smoke detectors detect. They are flawed. They don't go off in time and they go off too late if at all. I lost a school friend due to a house fire and her detectors never went off. She had ionization smoke detectors because that type is used in 99 percent of homes today. Photoelectric smoke detectors detect smoldering fires, think of sticking a hair curling iron into a couch for example, that type of smoke is detected by photoelectric. Smoke enters the chamber and scrambles the laser beam around, the sensor registers a significant drop in laser intensity and the detector goes into alarm. Photoelectric smoke detectors are better suited for household fire alarm systems. I would highly recommend a carbon monoxide detector on the system. The true thing about carbon monoxide is that it is colorless, odorless, comes from generators, cars, furnaces, water heaters and the like. You would never know that you had a problem unless you have one. Colorless, odorless, and deadly! Absolutely deadly! So, I would highly recommend adding a carbon monoxide detector on your system.
After I'm in *56 zone programming, I do no get the "Set to Confirm" prompt. Then when I enter a zone number, the display reverts back to 00 as soon as I try to put in a number such as 26. Therefore, I can't do any zone programming. Would you happen to know any reasons for this. Thank you.
All it's doing is closing/shorting the circuit. However I wouldn't do it on Zone 1 since Zone 1 when set to Zone type 9 or 16 will toss around 12 volts onto it. At least from what I have been told. Thing is with a Alarm Panel I wouldn't really trust it for Pull Stations. If you're doing this to your Home it would be fine but if it's a UL install then you would need a proper Fire System Panel.
With this system and this particular smoke head, yes... you would need a seperate homerun and zone I'm not entirely sure if Ademco makes a compatible addressable smoke head for this system
its the same way you do a read switch so if you have the panel [] its gosout useing 2 wires= to the pull 1 then the to wires go from the same turmials out to the next one []=======1=========2(end of line resitor)
Need help: I have a vista 15P with fire-smoke detector 4-wiring. Few mos. ago it was disconnected by electrician due to basement work, detector triggered alarm so we cancelled alarm. After detector hooked up, the check fire code 16 comes on but won’t go away despite disarming twice and clearing/resetting the check code. Any ideas how to clear this?
@@alexandersalarms5380 there could be situations like a blocked intake for example that wouldn't get caught.. Its always safest to test real world if you can rather than depending 100 percent on a self test
firealarmfreak1000 yes. The pull could be programmed on any zone. The horn strobe would go to an output trigger point. Keep in mind this panel isn't UL listed for fire applications
![Security system wiring tutorial[Honeywell Vista 20P]: Ep. 5- Add fire detection zone](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AxlR7HDKDwU/mqdefault.jpg)
All I needed to see those coiled yellow and greens on the fire wire to know this guys a pro
Haha, yup! Attention to detail!!
I do have something to share about this. On some systems, particularly mine, it may be wired where the keypad pulls it's power from the smoke detector reset relay. In this manner, the system would power cycle the keypad. Not all systems are wired this way, obviously. So, you may not always get a power cycle on the keypad during a smoke detector reset. Obviously, on this video, your keypad did not power cycle during the reset. And, that is completely normal. How do I know if the system is wired to power cycle the keypad during the smoke detector reset process?? If you hear a long beep from the keypad and the armed and ready lights alternate, and screen goes completely blank during the fire zones are resetting, that's your clues that your system is power cycling the keypad during the fire zone reset. This is something that some but not all installers do. Mine was done that way. Er well, my 6160, 6150, and 6460 power cycle during the smoke detector reset process. However, my 6280 touchscreen keypads and my 6139 keypad are wired through a supplemental power supply so, they don't power cycle however, vast majority of my keypads do power cycle during the smoke detector reset. But some systems are also wired to where the keypad doesn't power cycle during smoke detector reset, using your system as an example. But, if you do get a power cycle during your smoke reset, don't panic. That is completely normal. Now if the power continues to cycle, then check the wiring. But, panels power cycling the keypad during smoke detector reset? That is completely normal. Like I said, my alarm system does that.
Thanks, good info!
@@fixitwithzim It all boils down to how the keypad is wired, where the keypad gets it's power from, how the system is programmed, and stuff like that. Smoke detectors. The ionization smoke detectors are not made anymore for systems because they take to activate if they do at all. Smoke enters the chamber and gets ionized and the charges jump the gap and discharges the smoke detector like a capacitor and the detector goes into alarm. They are better at detecting rapid flaming fires, think of dropping a lit match into gasoline for example. That is the type of smoke that ionization smoke detectors detect. They are flawed. They don't go off in time and they go off too late if at all. I lost a school friend due to a house fire and her detectors never went off. She had ionization smoke detectors because that type is used in 99 percent of homes today. Photoelectric smoke detectors detect smoldering fires, think of sticking a hair curling iron into a couch for example, that type of smoke is detected by photoelectric. Smoke enters the chamber and scrambles the laser beam around, the sensor registers a significant drop in laser intensity and the detector goes into alarm. Photoelectric smoke detectors are better suited for household fire alarm systems.
I would highly recommend a carbon monoxide detector on the system. The true thing about carbon monoxide is that it is colorless, odorless, comes from generators, cars, furnaces, water heaters and the like. You would never know that you had a problem unless you have one. Colorless, odorless, and deadly! Absolutely deadly! So, I would highly recommend adding a carbon monoxide detector on your system.
this helped out a lot in the installation process of a home fire protection system. thanks very much! :D
Excellent video. Thank you!
You’re welcome!!
Hi, does this apply to the vista 32 FB ?
After I'm in *56 zone programming, I do no get the "Set to Confirm" prompt. Then when I enter a zone number, the display reverts back to 00 as soon as I try to put in a number such as 26. Therefore, I can't do any zone programming. Would you happen to know any reasons for this. Thank you.
does it do it with pull stations too?
All it's doing is closing/shorting the circuit. However I wouldn't do it on Zone 1 since Zone 1 when set to Zone type 9 or 16 will toss around 12 volts onto it. At least from what I have been told.
Thing is with a Alarm Panel I wouldn't really trust it for Pull Stations. If you're doing this to your Home it would be fine but if it's a UL install then you would need a proper Fire System Panel.
The only way to make smokes where you could name each detector is by putting them on individual zones correct?
With this system and this particular smoke head, yes... you would need a seperate homerun and zone I'm not entirely sure if Ademco makes a compatible addressable smoke head for this system
@@fixitwithzim oe rf i think
can you make a video on wiring pull stations and programming now?
its the same way you do a read switch so if you have the panel [] its gosout useing 2 wires= to the pull 1 then the to wires go from the same turmials out to the next one []=======1=========2(end of line resitor)
Need help: I have a vista 15P with fire-smoke detector 4-wiring. Few mos. ago it was disconnected by electrician due to basement work, detector triggered alarm so we cancelled alarm. After detector hooked up, the check fire code 16 comes on but won’t go away despite disarming twice and clearing/resetting the check code. Any ideas how to clear this?
Was the EOL reinstalled as well?
Was the EOL resistor reinstalled?
thank you so much that was really good and helpful
Great video! Very thorough.
Thanks, appreciate it!
Good afternoon. Could you please disclose the gauge of the wire. Thank You
18 gauge, 4 conductor solid cable
@@fixitwithzim 18/4 and 18/2 works
outstanding video
I'd use canned smoke to confirm the sense circuit as well as the electronics..
yep, you can do that too and it works well. Thanks for watching.
Something cool with these detectors is that when testing it, it checks the chamber automatically.
@@alexandersalarms5380 there could be situations like a blocked intake for example that wouldn't get caught.. Its always safest to test real world if you can rather than depending 100 percent on a self test
@@Guyfromhe it has a matinence feature, that detects a blocked chamber. It has anything you can name.
I have the same panel would I be able to hook up a pull station and a horn strobe up to it
firealarmfreak1000 yes. The pull could be programmed on any zone. The horn strobe would go to an output trigger point. Keep in mind this panel isn't UL listed for fire applications
You could in fact I am going to do that. I recommend that you install a Honeywell 4204 relay module and hook up the horn strobe to that.
I dude you good