Thanks for doing this video. I swapped mine out today. It took about 3.5 hours. I was working without access to an electrical outlet so no heat gun. Instead, I used a micro torch. I heated the “thread end” of both bolts. Loosening the exhaust pipe was all I had to do. Just a whack with the heel of my hand was all that was needed to free the bottom of the shock. For reassembly, I didn’t need a jack. I just lifted the rear wheel (and swing arm) which lined it up for me.
Great video. I just took my rear strut/shock out of my 1250gsa and it went pretty well. My only problem was the esa plug was a hassle. I definitely think I will have some time for cable mgmt. Sending to Ted Porter for a heavier spring. Safe riding. Thanks again. Btw didn't need a heat gun.
Thanks bud. I had to rip out my rear shock due to a rebound dampening failure, couldn't have done it without you (well that's not strictly true as I have a Haynes Manual but watching is easier than reading, LOL). Anyway, thanks a million mate. I had to heat up my bottom bolt too, but 10mins of heat and it gave. The real trouble though was pulling it out at the bottom, those bushings were in there tight. I had to remove the wheel and push the swing arm practically all the way down to release it (only then did I realise there was quite a bit of weight on the gear shift rod and its attachment to the swing arm (oops), but alls fine though. Now considering whether to go with the £250-300 rebuild/used replacement or upgrade to something that might not go kaput after 4 years - Touratech is a bit pricey for me though. Thanks again.
I'm really glad it was helpful. Good luck deciding. I wish there were more options out there for us but the LC bikes are relatively new as far as shocks go. Another 5 years, and there will probably be more options for us.
Yeah, probably going to go with an uprated spring set & service at ESA repair (depending on what's actually gone kaput) or perhaps a Tractive ESA replacement, which seems like half of the Plug&Play kit you have. I think it keeps all the stock electrical ESA gubbings but replaces the spring and piston parts - it's also looks about 1/2 the price. I really don't need all the extra fine adjustability and off-road ruggedness, pretty happy with the factory preload and dampening settings, just really need an uprated spring as I'm a fatty that rides mainly on the road with a very occasional dirt road.
@@AdamChandler86 I hope it will. Went to 2 BMW workshops and showed this error code. "No CAN packets from ESA E11438 press confirm" No reply was the answer. any clues? also hope its not the front shock!
If you haven't already, I'd join ADVRider's GS-Boxers forum and pose the question. I'd definitely try to narrow down front versus rear. This basically sounds like the Canbus system isn't getting position data from the ESA sensor. While both front & rear shocks are 'smart', it's the rear that does more work so my guess is it's the rear BUT I know from talking to a suspension expert out of California that he gets way more blown front shocks in than rear shocks from GS bikes. do you have GS-911 to plug in? Pricey but can come in handy for diagnosing. Finally, giving Ted Porter a call @ Beemershop might be good before you waste money on the rong shock.
@@AdamChandler86 thanks for the info. I not have an GS-911 but I know a man that does. will drop Ted Porter a line to see what he thinks. cheers safe riding.
This is awesome, thanks so much! I'm still wondering, at 12:32 is there a nut in that hole? My bike doesn't have one and I'm a bit worried some mechanic might have forgotten it
Thanks so much, just watched the whole thing and you never mention a nut on the other side of the top shock mounting bolt so I'll just assume the isn't one. This was super helpful
Yes, it’s recommended that you cycle the rear ESA motor. I have another video on how to do this. But you plug in GS-911, put the bike on he center stand (no weight on rear tire) and do an ESA motor scan and it calibrates the rear shock.
Great vid thanks. I have installed mine with no issues until it came to calibration. I am using a MotoScan app. When calibrating the suspension, it throws up an error and aborts the process. Anyone seen similar? Any work arounds?
Hi Adam thanks for the quick reply. I finally figured out how to use my GS911 and found the calibrate suspension feature. It reset the front & rear shocks to 000 mm and gave me the lowering I was looking for. I upgraded my stock OEM shocks to the Tractive Shocks set for my weight & standard load from Ted & Jeff at The Beemershop. These Tractives do not have the extra features available with the Tour-a Tech Tractive Suspension that you got (also from The Beemershop). I also chose to get the lowering of 25mm with these Tractive shocks (which was completed after I calibrated suspension with the GS911). Thank you very much for the 2 videos - they really helped for the 1st time of getting to the front & rear shocks! It was interesting to get the bike down to its skeleton!
Thanks for doing this video. I swapped mine out today. It took about 3.5 hours. I was working without access to an electrical outlet so no heat gun. Instead, I used a micro torch. I heated the “thread end” of both bolts. Loosening the exhaust pipe was all I had to do. Just a whack with the heel of my hand was all that was needed to free the bottom of the shock. For reassembly, I didn’t need a jack. I just lifted the rear wheel (and swing arm) which lined it up for me.
Good tip and glad you got it done!
Hey Mike, there's no nut on the "thread end" in either those bolts right?
@@mc-3 correct, no nut.
@@mikemullis6805 thanks so much!!
Great video. I just took my rear strut/shock out of my 1250gsa and it went pretty well. My only problem was the esa plug was a hassle. I definitely think I will have some time for cable mgmt. Sending to Ted Porter for a heavier spring. Safe riding. Thanks again. Btw didn't need a heat gun.
Good job!
Thanks bud. I had to rip out my rear shock due to a rebound dampening failure, couldn't have done it without you (well that's not strictly true as I have a Haynes Manual but watching is easier than reading, LOL). Anyway, thanks a million mate. I had to heat up my bottom bolt too, but 10mins of heat and it gave. The real trouble though was pulling it out at the bottom, those bushings were in there tight. I had to remove the wheel and push the swing arm practically all the way down to release it (only then did I realise there was quite a bit of weight on the gear shift rod and its attachment to the swing arm (oops), but alls fine though. Now considering whether to go with the £250-300 rebuild/used replacement or upgrade to something that might not go kaput after 4 years - Touratech is a bit pricey for me though. Thanks again.
I'm really glad it was helpful. Good luck deciding. I wish there were more options out there for us but the LC bikes are relatively new as far as shocks go. Another 5 years, and there will probably be more options for us.
Yeah, probably going to go with an uprated spring set & service at ESA repair (depending on what's actually gone kaput) or perhaps a Tractive ESA replacement, which seems like half of the Plug&Play kit you have. I think it keeps all the stock electrical ESA gubbings but replaces the spring and piston parts - it's also looks about 1/2 the price. I really don't need all the extra fine adjustability and off-road ruggedness, pretty happy with the factory preload and dampening settings, just really need an uprated spring as I'm a fatty that rides mainly on the road with a very occasional dirt road.
Most. helpful. About to remove my shock to send off for checking /service. cheers.
Sweet! Glad it saved you some time and money.
@@AdamChandler86 I hope it will. Went to 2 BMW workshops and showed this error code. "No CAN packets from ESA E11438 press confirm" No reply was the answer. any clues? also hope its not the front shock!
If you haven't already, I'd join ADVRider's GS-Boxers forum and pose the question. I'd definitely try to narrow down front versus rear. This basically sounds like the Canbus system isn't getting position data from the ESA sensor. While both front & rear shocks are 'smart', it's the rear that does more work so my guess is it's the rear BUT I know from talking to a suspension expert out of California that he gets way more blown front shocks in than rear shocks from GS bikes. do you have GS-911 to plug in? Pricey but can come in handy for diagnosing. Finally, giving Ted Porter a call @ Beemershop might be good before you waste money on the rong shock.
@@AdamChandler86 thanks for the info. I not have an GS-911 but I know a man that does. will drop Ted Porter a line to see what he thinks. cheers safe riding.
On 3:26, should that bolt have a nut on the other end?
This is awesome, thanks so much! I'm still wondering, at 12:32 is there a nut in that hole? My bike doesn't have one and I'm a bit worried some mechanic might have forgotten it
You should watch this video instead. I re-shot it with better lighting and better instructions - ua-cam.com/video/-ObXKEnA93c/v-deo.html
Thanks so much, just watched the whole thing and you never mention a nut on the other side of the top shock mounting bolt so I'll just assume the isn't one. This was super helpful
did you use a scan tool after installing the shock? They say you need to use the gs 911 tool or moto scan
Yes, it’s recommended that you cycle the rear ESA motor. I have another video on how to do this. But you plug in GS-911, put the bike on he center stand (no weight on rear tire) and do an ESA motor scan and it calibrates the rear shock.
@@AdamChandler86 cool. After I get my GS I'll be watching a lot of your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏
Great vid thanks. I have installed mine with no issues until it came to calibration. I am using a MotoScan app. When calibrating the suspension, it throws up an error and aborts the process.
Anyone seen similar? Any work arounds?
Great video. Thanks Adam
Does the touratec shocks makes for a more comfortable ride than tha stock shocks in comfort mode? Thx
After installing the new rear shock did you recalibrate the ride-height sensor as recommended in the Haynes manual?
Nope. No issues
Hi Adam thanks for the quick reply. I finally figured out how to use my GS911 and found the calibrate suspension feature. It reset the front & rear shocks to 000 mm and gave me the lowering I was looking for. I upgraded my stock OEM shocks to the Tractive Shocks set for my weight & standard load from Ted & Jeff at The Beemershop. These Tractives do not have the extra features available with the Tour-a Tech Tractive Suspension that you got (also from The Beemershop). I also chose to get the lowering of 25mm with these Tractive shocks (which was completed after I calibrated suspension with the GS911). Thank you very much for the 2 videos - they really helped for the 1st time of getting to the front & rear shocks! It was interesting to get the bike down to its skeleton!
You don't calibrate the the ride height sensor you calibrate the rebound and dampening, there is two options on ISTA ( I'm a BMW mottrad tech).