@@keystothecosmos7527 The sensor is the IMX571 which is 23.5 by 15.7mm while the 6200 sensor is the IMX455, 36 by 24mm. I am not sure where the option to shoot Full Frame on the 2600 camera if the sensor is physically smaller. As alway, clear skies.
Have you had a chance to take some photos without the reducer? If the photos are good and just need a little cropping on the edges you will have 2 scopes in 1. With 2 cameras like you said, you have even more focal lengths.
Great video! I have an earlier version of this (FDC1), also in carbon fiber, and have a question for you. I typically need to use 2 of the extension tubes - for the ASI1600 and the 2600. Otherwise, I can’t reach focus. Mine doesn’t have the hex focuser, but a really not up to par 2” rack-and-pinion that I’m constantly fighting with!
I am at the moment actually considering buying the one with FCD-1 glass. I see that you are not happy with the focuser. Is that only about what you just mentioned, not being able to reach focus without 2 of the extension tubes. Or are there any others aspects of it that you are not satisfied with? Is the 2 inch focuser enough for not having vignetting on the 2600?
It Hass some minor vignetting that really doesn’t impact image quality. I have had some issues with focus slipping with the stock focused. Still looking at a possible replacement. The color fidelity and sharpness of the scope is great though. I’d buy it again.
Very nice scope, nice focal length both for visual and imaging. I am looking to get the cheaper Essential series version with the HOYA FCD1 extra-low dispersion (ED) glass and proprietary EMD enhanced multi-layer coatings, and also get the 0.7x reducer/flattener as you mentioned. Just need to make sure i don't forget the adapter. There is also the aluminum version that has the more expensive FCD100 glass, and the most expensive is the carbon fiber version which is what you have here, but this is a bit out of my budget. Thank you for a nice informative video. Clear skies!
@@Astronurd If you give the telescope time to cool to ambient temperature, using this scope for high magnification visual observations or imaging of bright objects (moon, planets, bright double stars...) and you are relatively young with excellent visual acuity, then you MAY notice the difference between equal-quality 102mm objectives with FCD-100 versus FPL53.. If you are doing Deep Sky Imaging, using a quality flattener/reducer, not oversampling the image, generally dealing with typical southern Ontario seeing conditions, and re-focusing between filters (in a mono camera set-up), then the FCD-100 should be more than good enough.
A 102mm telescope will have a maximum useable magnification of about 204X so using a 4x or 5x Barlow (as mentioned in the video) could take it over the "useable" limit.
Thank you. So I've tried a few places. Blacks (Canadian company) seems to be the most consistent. I'm thinking of just trying Costco though as I've heard they do a good job and for considerably cheaper
@@keystothecosmos7527 no I was wondering is it was compatible with the ed102 because it’s a 3inch. And on explore Scientific site it said it’s for the ed127. I just wanted to know your experience with it. Thanks
@@devindrasingh913 I see. So I initially had it on my ED102 and it required an adapter to fit. When I purchased the ED127, it fit directly on using the same adapter. So I could switch back and forth from each scope without adjusting it once the adapter was installed
Just bought an 127 maxvission triplet the same explore scientific scope has the white painted ed glass same, i have a question when moving and roalling the telescope tube do you hear movement in front of scope, like the glass is moving or roling Inside the cell, and that focuser wobbles after 15mm tube travel and the focuser rotation was frozen to tite from factory, now i going to buy a explore scientific hex replacement better bearing focuser for another 3 hundred dollars, we do pick expensive hobbies LOL, CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR ED MAKES NOICE UP FRONT, IAM CURIUS.
@@keystothecosmos7527 By any change are you Portuguese ?, i seen some pictures to your right on the video, and i have a uncle that lives in Canada near new York boarder, clear skies mate. came to America front Acores porta delgader, at 11 years old now iam 67 and retired. clear skies mate.
Speaking as a retired pro photographer, your lighting is creating shadows under your eyebrows (called Racoon lighting) and to avoid it just add another light around eye level and position it to fill in those shadows. Depending on the light above you, you might get by with just adding a large white piece of cardboard just under your lens and angled to bounce light onto your face.
Great review Dave. I've been considering one of these for about a month now. Now I'm considering extra seriously.
Thanks Mike. This is THE perfect scope for you 😉
Good video and thanks. I have the scope in white aluminum but I am wishing the best with it and my ASI183MC for pics. Should be great.
It's a great scope. You'll love it 👍
@@keystothecosmos7527 Thank you and best wishes with your hobby and mine.
Really amazing sir
Slight correction, around 16:57 and 18:04, Full Frame is 6200 camera not 2600, it is APS-C. Keep up the great work! loving the pictures.
Thanks for your input. So my 2600 has the option to shoot full frame or APS-C. I didn't realize this when I purchased it...
@@keystothecosmos7527 The sensor is the IMX571 which is 23.5 by 15.7mm while the 6200 sensor is the IMX455, 36 by 24mm. I am not sure where the option to shoot Full Frame on the 2600 camera if the sensor is physically smaller. As alway, clear skies.
Great info Dave. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks Everett!
Have you had a chance to take some photos without the reducer? If the photos are good and just need a little cropping on the edges you will have 2 scopes in 1. With 2 cameras like you said, you have even more focal lengths.
Great video as always, would you care to share your backspacing with the ES reducer.
Thanks! Same spacing as always. 55mm from the reducer. So I use a ZWO filter drawer and one other spacer
Could you please precise which adaptator we need with the ES reducer? Which other reducer would fit with a FF DSLR?
Great video! I have an earlier version of this (FDC1), also in carbon fiber, and have a question for you. I typically need to use 2 of the extension tubes - for the ASI1600 and the 2600. Otherwise, I can’t reach focus. Mine doesn’t have the hex focuser, but a really not up to par 2” rack-and-pinion that I’m constantly fighting with!
I am at the moment actually considering buying the one with FCD-1 glass. I see that you are not happy with the focuser. Is that only about what you just mentioned, not being able to reach focus without 2 of the extension tubes. Or are there any others aspects of it that you are not satisfied with? Is the 2 inch focuser enough for not having vignetting on the 2600?
It Hass some minor vignetting that really doesn’t impact image quality. I have had some issues with focus slipping with the stock focused. Still looking at a possible replacement. The color fidelity and sharpness of the scope is great though. I’d buy it again.
Thank you very much for the insight! What the backfocus with reducer? And how you fix camrea tilting?
Forgot to mention. “If you can handle post production, small will not be too small” 🤷🏻♂️
Great scope and review of it!
Great video!
Very nice scope, nice focal length both for visual and imaging. I am looking to get the cheaper Essential series version with the HOYA FCD1 extra-low dispersion (ED) glass and proprietary EMD enhanced multi-layer coatings, and also get the 0.7x reducer/flattener as you mentioned. Just need to make sure i don't forget the adapter.
There is also the aluminum version that has the more expensive FCD100 glass, and the most expensive is the carbon fiber version which is what you have here, but this is a bit out of my budget.
Thank you for a nice informative video.
Clear skies!
Thanks so much! Yes that's smart. Start with whatever you can and eventually you can move up if you want to but that should still do the trick 👌
The FCD-100 is still not as good as FPL53. It’s close, but not quite there yet.
@@Astronurd If you give the telescope time to cool to ambient temperature, using this scope for high magnification visual observations or imaging of bright objects (moon, planets, bright double stars...) and you are relatively young with excellent visual acuity, then you MAY notice the difference between equal-quality 102mm objectives with FCD-100 versus FPL53.. If you are doing Deep Sky Imaging, using a quality flattener/reducer, not oversampling the image, generally dealing with typical southern Ontario seeing conditions, and re-focusing between filters (in a mono camera set-up), then the FCD-100 should be more than good enough.
A 102mm telescope will have a maximum useable magnification of about 204X so using a 4x or 5x Barlow (as mentioned in the video) could take it over the "useable" limit.
Another well done video. Just curious where do you order your metal custom prints from? Are you satisfied with quality?
Thank you. So I've tried a few places. Blacks (Canadian company) seems to be the most consistent. I'm thinking of just trying Costco though as I've heard they do a good job and for considerably cheaper
very nice video... since you mentioned "focuser could be better", is it possible to install ZWO eaf on this scope? Thanks!
Thanks very much. Yes, definitely! I have one installed on my bigger version, the 127mm 👌
While I appreciate your monologue and time extending the tube and hands on nomenclature would also be helpful...just saying...Thank you
I just purchased this scope and was wondering how does the .7 reducer flattener works?
That's great! Do you mean what purpose does it serve?
@@keystothecosmos7527 no I was wondering is it was compatible with the ed102 because it’s a 3inch. And on explore Scientific site it said it’s for the ed127. I just wanted to know your experience with it. Thanks
@@devindrasingh913 I see. So I initially had it on my ED102 and it required an adapter to fit. When I purchased the ED127, it fit directly on using the same adapter. So I could switch back and forth from each scope without adjusting it once the adapter was installed
@@keystothecosmos7527 was the images with the ed102 and the .7 reducer good, sharpness and details was intact?
@@devindrasingh913 Yes. It's made for imaging especially and I never image without one personally. You'll have to crop if you don't use one
Just bought an 127 maxvission triplet the same explore scientific scope has the white painted ed glass same, i have a question when moving and roalling the telescope tube do you hear movement in front of scope, like the glass is moving or roling Inside the cell, and that focuser wobbles after 15mm tube travel and the focuser rotation was frozen to tite from factory, now i going to buy a explore scientific hex replacement better bearing focuser for another 3 hundred dollars, we do pick expensive hobbies LOL, CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR ED MAKES NOICE UP FRONT, IAM CURIUS.
Haha. I haven't noticed any noises at all. The focuser is definitely the worst part of the scope for sure
@@keystothecosmos7527 By any change are you Portuguese ?, i seen some pictures to your right on the video, and i have a uncle that lives in Canada near new York boarder, clear skies mate. came to America front Acores porta delgader, at 11 years old now iam 67 and retired. clear skies mate.
@@vicamaral Thanks for the support. I am 🇮🇹
Speaking as a retired pro photographer, your lighting is creating shadows under your eyebrows (called Racoon lighting) and to avoid it just add another light around eye level and position it to fill in those shadows. Depending on the light above you, you might get by with just adding a large white piece of cardboard just under your lens and angled to bounce light onto your face.
Thanks very much for the suggestions and your support 👍