Put a voltmeter on your leads, that inverter voltmeters are not accurate, your charge is most likely 2v higher than set #, same with float. When not charging inverter will show -1.5 lower than actual. Glad to see you got the new display. Now you have to lower the values enough to be accurate and not overcharge. The new display shows clipped values and the charge volts # is float volts on mine .
I see risk of a set of keys or random pocketed screwdriver potentially causing a nasty arc-flash or fire. Too many exposed terminals of high capacity battery modules and breakers that should be metal boxes. Wow! But really cool from a tech head perspective.
Ian, so for us with the older now LV5048 or LV6048, what is our best upgrade path. For me I built my solar array with the benefits of the lower VDC of the solar inputs on the 5048 so I can tolerate shading easier but now most of these new inverters won't work with my configuration ~40ish volt panels in 2P so around 80-90V. What is the best option and I can't get another 5048(to combine two) or easily upgrade my 5048 to anything.
Absolute gold info, showed me so many things i didn't think were possible. I have a Hive (Alpha Ess) battery, grid connected. 5.8 KWH 3KW output and was told i cannot add a different battery without removing this one. What do you think?, Is it possible with grid connect to add another battery, I have 2 seperate solar arrays with 2 seperate 5kw inverters
Nice job Ian, Keep up the great work 👍
Wow. Impressive, makes my little system look like a toy 😂
Put a voltmeter on your leads, that inverter voltmeters are not accurate, your charge is most likely 2v higher than set #, same with float. When not charging inverter will show -1.5 lower than actual. Glad to see you got the new display. Now you have to lower the values enough to be accurate and not overcharge. The new display shows clipped values and the charge volts # is float volts on mine .
Am I correct in assuming that load 2 is similar to the Smart Load on the Sol-Ark?
Hi
Im assuming all lifepo4 chemistry is that right?
Are they the seplos bms or all different?
Also what brand are those big breakers please?
does the inverter comes with free shipping
Ian can these work outside the US on 50hz?
I see risk of a set of keys or random pocketed screwdriver potentially causing a nasty arc-flash or fire. Too many exposed terminals of high capacity battery modules and breakers that should be metal boxes. Wow! But really cool from a tech head perspective.
Ian has enough storage to keep a city block lit up for a few days...
Ian, so for us with the older now LV5048 or LV6048, what is our best upgrade path. For me I built my solar array with the benefits of the lower VDC of the solar inputs on the 5048 so I can tolerate shading easier but now most of these new inverters won't work with my configuration ~40ish volt panels in 2P so around 80-90V. What is the best option and I can't get another 5048(to combine two) or easily upgrade my 5048 to anything.
Absolute gold info, showed me so many things i didn't think were possible. I have a Hive (Alpha Ess) battery, grid connected. 5.8 KWH 3KW output and was told i cannot add a different battery without removing this one. What do you think?, Is it possible with grid connect to add another battery, I have 2 seperate solar arrays with 2 seperate 5kw inverters
do you have trade in
What are the surge/peak power specs?
Is the Nhx-10kw inverter a low frequency, transformer based inverter or a high frequency, transformerless inverter?
high freq