DO NOT Undersize the Ridge Beam or This Could Happen - EP 28
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
- The ridge beam is holding the whole roof structure, it needs to be sized adequately, let me walk you through the installation of the ridge beam as well as a quick tutorial on how to size it the right way. I see if way too often, saggy ridges due to undersized ridge beams, don't be cheap, use the right beam and never worry again.
I am Tristan, I am building a 400 SF cabin at the back of my house. I plan on doing it all by myself. I plan on sharing this journey here on UA-cam where I will show you every step of the way, all the struggles I run into and everything I will learn from this experience. I will then rent the cabin as a short term rental in hope of covering most, if not, all my house mortgage (House Hacking). Follow me here as this will absolutely be one of a kind journey.
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Content of the video :
00:00 - Intro
00:23 - Ridge Beam Installation
06:05 - How to Size a Ridge Beam (The Engineering Way)
09:16 - Second Ridge Beam Installation
13:42 - Rafters Installation Next Time
#CabinSeries #TheDIYCabinGuy #Cabin #TinyHouse - Навчання та стиль
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I'm only 6:56 into the video, why don't you use the rope like you did on the first beam with the 2nd beam? you can use the first beam as the pulley so you wouldn't have to break your back?.
@@rickk6447 I think it was just way too heavy just with the rope
@@TheDIYCabinGuy That's why man invented the block and tackle pulley system. 1 man can lift a motor out of a car using one. I built a 4 season sun room on the back of my house and my retaining outer wall was 20 feet long and I had no-one to help me so I put blocks to stop it from going over and built a rig to use as a high fulcrum point to pull the wall up and into place and then secured it in place so I could level it and hoist the 2 outer walls in place to lock everything in square.
There's always a way. it's just a question of figuring out how to do it. I could move a 2 ton stone block alone with nothing but round stones and levers. Ftr, I don't EVER want to do that but I know how to do it if I ever had to.
I love ridge beams. Especially peoples reaction when installing a huge gluelam beam. I always factor trees falling and tend to size up. Many haters on here but you did an awesome job.
Thanks! Well I think a lot of people don’t understand the difference between a ridge beam and a ridge plate.
I lifted beams bigger then that by myself with fairly minimal effort. How I accomplished it was building a A frame with a collar tie about 4 ft higher then the final height, installing a lag on d ring. From the d ring I hooked up a old block and tackle pulley attached it to beam and then hoisted it up. I like to have a tie off point ready so when I hit my height I tie load off so I can go up the ladder and slide it in the pocket.
Nice !
That looked painful! I am a structural engineer and I have a feeling that the beam was a bit overdesigned. You could have used 12 psf for the DL and the 30 psf snow load that you used could've been reduced to about 21 psf (due to slope and other factors). There is a difference between ground snow load and roof snow load. A more economical beam could've ended up being (2) 1 3/4" x 11 7/8 LVLs. I am glad you were able to install it without any incident though!
You’re right, I didn’t reduce the snow load. Not being lazy could have saved me some backaches 😂
multiply by .55 for reduction?
Are you allowed to reduce the loads under prescriptive construction rules, or is that only allowed with an engineer's stamp.
@@dallinweir in Appendix C of the BCBC, the calculation is done at .55 for most residential buildings
absolutely. I mean, the rafters ARE important. And Collar ties important, but the ridge beam, if rafters are opposed to each other, is not anywhere near as important. I often make my rafters 4x or at least 3 by, and I always have collar ties every 4 feet or so, but I've never had a ridge beam anywhere near that size.
Here in the UK the ridge beam is not used to take any of the load of the roof. The roof is made up of a triangle with two rafters and one joist, get this right and all the roof load is sitting on the walls the rafters are on. Typically these are factory made and just spaced on site with a 6x1 inch timber to hold it in place at the ridge. Generally we do not make a roof under about 30 degrees and it will be tiled with clay or cement tiles.
It is only if we leave out the joists to make a loft room that a ridge beam may be used but even then not of that size.
Nice !
ya its the same here this guy just dont know what hes doing ridge takes no loads or shears ever
@@frostycools1315 magic cathedral ceiling holding themselves together
@@frostycools1315 It sure does take a load if there are no ceiling joists and the ceiling is vaulted (at the underside of the roof rafters).
@@eddied3246 Sure, a ridge can be designed as a beam to carry half the load of the rafters, but that is not the norm In most typical wood framed residential structures. This is why the term ridge board is a thing, they are usually just that - ridge boards - not ridge beams, because there are usually either ceiling joists or collar ties in an attic that help to carry the load of the roof and relieve all the outward forces it imposes on the top of the exterior walls. When the ridge doesn't have that help it needs to be designed as a ridge beam, a much more substantial structural member of the house frame.
Sweet Jesus. I'm replacing the sagging ridge peak and rafters on my 40 year old garage this week. Before watching those video, but based on every other video I've seen, I was sort of counting on the job going smoothly as long as I had a camera rolling. Well, you just blew my safety net out of the water. At least to make up for it you helped me from using undersized ridge peak lumber. So..kinda thanks, I guess. ;)
😂 you’re welcome. Good luck, check your numbers you might be able to get away with a 11 1/4” lvl. I went with 14” because theoretically I could get 3 ft of snow sitting on my roof. But most area without snow only have to use 20 PSF LL.
self explained and very practical video. awesome thank you
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Dude, that's about the most dangerous way to set a ridge beam. That's the way I like it!
Thumbs up!
😂😂😂 I mean we tried to do it somewhat safely.
Keep up the good work! Can't wait to see what you do next.
Thanks Emmanuel! Working on the rafters is also tough work (started on it today), and there are 32 to install 😭
@@TheDIYCabinGuy especially if you work alone... Keep the outcome in mind, that should motivate you!
@@emmanuel4333 yep, that’s the key!
Good job! If you were having trouble getting the second lvl set due to friction, rubbing some wax on tight spots really helps.
Robert, that’s a great tip! I wish I had known, this would have made our lives so much easier!
First beam was a bit of a struggle, but got there.
Second beam; use the first beam as a lifting gantry It is a structural element, so would be able to support the second beam whilst lifting it into place.
That’s a good point! Thanks
And take two wraps of the rope around both beams for mechanical advantage
You can in lue of the expensive LDL, build a joist girder in place out of 2x4. The old trusted system that cost very little and works well.
You could have selected a 3.5 x 11.75 LVL. Then rent a Genie lift to safely bring it up. Did a 32 ft long ridge beam a few months ago. Took 20 minutes and no drama!
Makes sense, I’m up a hill though, not really easy access
Dude your doing great, just stay safe .👍🇨🇦
Thank you Claude!
Thanks for telling us about ForteWeb!
You bet!
I LIKED SEEIND LOAD CALCULATIONS.
GOOD INFO.
Thanks !
Rub a bar of soap on the LVL and the openings on each end it lubricates the wood and it would have slid in and over much easier. You can buy big thick bars of laundry soap at any dollar store or supermarket. Or liquid dish soap works too.
Nice! Wish I had thought of that !
I love the comments about how this beam is oversized.
Question. How many specifiers allow for an electrician to drill a 1/2 hole through the beam to conceal wiring to supply a center mount light fixtures or fans?
Yeah very common !
A chain block an some straps would make that lift a bit easier on your back sholders and also having a tower and platform, if you are goign to be doing a lot of this.
Thanks Paul, thankfully this was just a one and done. Shouldn’t have any other beams to hoist up like that.
even if you dont use better belay/pulley/rope system for lifting the load (and you should), please advise others to use some sort of safety rope loop around the hoisted lumber so that it cannot crash all the way to the ground and take out you and your ladder while lifting. You're lucky no one slipped or hurt their back.
Yep we were lucky 🍀
I want to build my own cabin near my son's. I was going to go with ridge board and rafter ties. But after seeing this i might go with a structural ridge beam.
I guess it depends what you want your cabin to look like, I loved the idea of having an open cathedral ceiling so a ridge beam was the logical option.
Feed installed one 6x6 in the center of the house he could have used it as the support with ropes and pulleys to hoist anything up
Good tip for next time :)
The strop you used in making the hoist of the beam complete would have been helpful in all cases. Especially when you would have chosen to put a higher or proud chair for the beams, at the top of the construction. That would have helped significantly in getting these beams up. The excess of the chair can be easily cut to appropriate length when the beams are mounted properly.
Why go through the inside, when your construction provides you two slides on which you can easily transport the beams upwards?
Plus, some appropriate length scaffolding will also help, you may be tall, but are definitely working beyond your very own reach on that ladder you’re standing on. When we’re talking dangerous, well that’s something to take into account whilst building such a construction.
Cheerio
It could have worked indeed!
I have a tip for the second one! I take a sturdy strap and make a loop big enough to make it around and for a loop to step in, loop in loop, bodyweight is stronger than arms and shoulders. A few pieces of wood on nr1 underneath firmly screwed. An winch/hoiststrap in the end top of nr 1 and on nr 2 (1 yard(ish) from end attached. Winch to position.
Lube timber with candle or alike, mrs not happy when those big ambiancecandles disapear 😂
Nice! That’d have probably made our lives much easier.
I fail in description and terms but im convinced you catch on. I've done too much hard work and was convinced i was superman when youngster, the payback is painful at 57 yrs 😒😩
Ol git knows too late 🤣. These days i think before and take time to get a comfty and fast result.
Wish i had brainpower as a newbie, now i got it.
Slow learningcurve 😳😂
Pulleys and come-alongs are your friend. I install larger beams than in the video by myself with no grunting or hernias. Moving beams on the ground using dollies and pipes to roll beams around.
What would you have attached the pulley to in this situation ?
Mechanical leverage. Lesson learned i hope.
How did you calculate the size and quantity of the concrete footers? Looks like ForteWeb doesn't have anything for foundations.
I might make a video about this if there is enough interest on that subject.
Too many more than 30 years ago while helping a neighbor set up a heat lamp and temporary coop for the new chicks in the attic space of her 1865 garage I took moment to marvel at the construction. A 9 pitch with 1' X 5" rafter pairs joined at the peak, no ridge at all, every so often on center but none closer than 29". In Zone 3 10 miles 16 miles from the Canadiaan border.
But that structure had a flat ceiling? In that case, the ceiling joists are effectively tying the walls together from spreading.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy...with joists resting on a let in 1 X ribbon board and nailed to the remaining three inches of the stud.
Good for you, DIY Cabin Guy! I've been watching your videos for awhile and you never disappoint, my friend. Two questions: 1. How heavy was that LVL? 2. Where did you buy it from?
Thanks Darryl, I got the LVL from lowes, they have to order it for you and it took about 4-6 weeks to get it. According the menards’ website, one ply of a 14” deep lvl and 20’ long is 112 lbs.
Looks like you’re up for a great project too! I just subscribed to your channel. Curious to see how you’re going to put that A frame together!
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Thanks for the sub and tip on Lowe’s! Yeah, it’s been an adventure so far.
@@darryldarks are you gonna fully diy that A frame you plan on building or will you hire out certain parts of the construction?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy It’s most likely going to be 90% me. I might hire out one or two things but other than that it’s all me. LOL. Yeah, it’ll be really interesting to watch each other’s builds since there are a lot of similarities but a fair amount differences too.
For a beam this heavy it would probably be easier to build it in situ. Build a temp support in the middle then lay out all the members and glue/nail them all together in-place.
Could have worked well !
Those ridge beams are huge, long and heavy. Very difficult to lift into place. Does not look it was fun. Did you calculate the required size of this based on real and potential load?
Yes I designed it per code requirements.
They’re awkwardly long but not that heavy really. Heavy but manageable.
And that’s why I believe in compression ridges. Even for a vaulted ceiling I’d still go compression just have a few decorative rafter ties is all…
You might need more than just a few rafter ties then to hold it all together
@@TheDIYCabinGuy let me rephrase. “A few decorative rafter ties is all you’ll see in the end” obviously you’d have collar ties or a strapping substitute over the ridge…
Great job, love to see a one or two man operation, such a tough install, I used a material lifter ( lifts 450 lbs) rents from HD for $70 . I rolled a 4"x12"x 20' feet lamented beam on 3inch pvc on ground from driveway, then lift one end on to lift, center it then just cranked into place made a hole out back of wall to Insert beam thru, took sedge hammer to tighten back up before putting (3) 2x6 Underneath, put some 3/4 over whole opening. My application was on a 1st floor of a old barn to stiff up second floor then installed one lolly column under beam, before pouring new concrete floor
Nice! I thought about using my wall jacks to try and help the process but we wanted to give it a shot just with our hands. While it was definitely difficult, it was thankfully still manageable.
Maybe it's just me but I like to put PL or limber lock glue in between the beams!!Makes me think scissor trusses are way easier :-)
Yeah scissor trussed probably would have been easier, can you put these by hands or do they need to be dropped with a crane?
Gotta get roman and employ some pully cranes. Rome may not have been built in a day but it was built with pulleys.
For next time 👍
Incredible job but I would think you could have adapted your wall lifters, one on each end to lift the beams
Yes that’s correct, I had though about it first but decided to try just with manpower, these lvl plies are not that heavy, just long and awkward.
I have this problem at the moment currently got 'ridge beam anxiety' stressing about if my oak 2x8 will be enough with rafters for my catherdral roof...so going down the rabbit warren of calculations i dont understand.
Try the online calculator I show, it should help you to figure it out
How many different ways to do something wrong? I just saw a perfect example. I think I’ll use it in a training class for what not to do.
Glad I could help 😂
Wouldn't nails have been been better than screws for assembling the two LVL pieces into one as a ridge beam? I thought nails had a better tensile strength than screws. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Good point but I think that screws do a better job at tying the plies together
Could you just put a support beam in the middle and use a few 2x12s nailed together?
Potentially but who wants a post right in the middle of the cabin right? Wouldn’t have been that great looking
I've been around a long time and I never cared about the size of a rafter beam. Now if you are talking about a valley rafter beam that is another story. Also I have seen structures with no rafter beam ( ridge beam)at all, it is really just for convenience.
Well it all depends if you are talking about cathedral ceiling or flat ceiling.
For a cathedral ceiling, you need a structural ridge that is sized appropriately
6:12, what program did you use?
That’s just a pdf software but I used a cad software to draw the plans originally
First, thanks much for all you're doing, it's immensely helpful for me in my build.
A question on this one as I try and size my own ridge beam: is there a reason you didn't input any value for wind when you were calculating your loads? Is that covered by Forteweb's default wind parameters?
Typically a ridge beam is not directly part of the wind force resisting system of a house, shear walls are.
Thanks for getting back to me, I was getting dangerously deep into ASCE waters and well over my head.@@TheDIYCabinGuy
I would love to see the code for whatever state you are building this, and I would love to see the mechanical engineer’s calculations. We have been building houses for a long time using regular KD lumber as a ridge beam! If you go to the lvl companies and have them do the calculations then you would of course end up with this over engineered “solution”
Dang, these lumber companies following building code requirements !
@@TheDIYCabinGuy My point is that they do not. They are there to sell you their LVL beams and thereby come up with more than you need, so people like yourself will fall in their trap and buy buy buy! It’s capitalism at its worse.
Ask any real builder and they will tell you that the ones who make the codes/laws are in bed with the ones who make the materials. Money changes hands all the time. That creates a LOT of unnecessary codes.
@@AlaskaWild very true🤣🤣🤣😍
@@buratching Not the least bit true. Engineering specifications are code for a reason. You must overbuild. If you didn't, then the day someone puts a waterbed in (for example), someone is going to regret the day they were born. The day a tree limb falls on a roof that already has snow on it, even worse. As soon as your contractor says "ask any real builder..." politely ask them to get the heck off your property.
As someone who overkills often…that was overkill for the SF. But hey it’s up to everyone to build how they see fit, and if you are happy with it, that’s all that matters.
👍
What would of you recommend?
What is the span and what’s your area’s snow load?
18 ft span, 30 PSF snow load
You should have used pulleys aka block and tackle to hoist the ridge beams
And mount the block on what?
@@Sagan_Starborn the air of course
I'M NOT A CARPENTER OR AN ENGINEER
AND I HAVE A QUESTION..
WHY HE CUT OUT THE 2X12 OR WHEREVER
THE SIZE IS
IF THAT WAS ME
I JUST INSTALL THOSE WITH OUT CUTTING'S !!
You mean at the ends ? It’s to make the overhang. That’s what all builders in my area do. Then you can use a 2x6 for your sub fascia board and a 1x8 for your fascia.
If I didn’t cut the beam which is 14” deep, I would need a 14” deep for my sun fascia and probably 18” for the fascia board which would not be feasible. Keep watching the following episodes and you’ll see what I’m taking about.
They make Genii lifts to pick that ridge board
Would have been nice!
Butbyou took out the colar ties, so what is stopping the weight of the ridge and rafters from pushing the walls out?
It’s a structural ridge beam, no ties needed
@@TheDIYCabinGuy yes i see that with your build. Oddly this commment ended up on the wrong video.
A couple of pulleys attached to a taller extension such as a 4x4, would increase your lifting ability and better/safer control of your beam.
Thanks for the tip
why screws and not a framing nail gun? just wondering
For attaching the plies of the beam? Typically, we use nails for attaching multiple plies of conventional lumber but for lvl’s , it’s better to use screws. Better shear capacity to transfer the loads between the plies.
great work mate. installing one myself sometime soon (uk)... 30 foot span!
Nice! That’s a long one
Your crew and that ladder are undersized my friend. Get or build some staging. Roofs work as a system. Collar ties,joists ,and support wall s upstairs. Even support posts built into walls . I dont do cathedral ceilings, it is just wasted space that is hard to heat. You can do galleries that have open areas. the joists or beams still tie it all together. I have had old houses sag when the upstairs floor was removed. It had to be winched and jacked back into place. We wanted the wide board subfloor downstairs. The upstairs was unfinished. Just an open loft.
Nice
how do I get the file for forte?
That was just an example, I haven’t saved anything really. And forte is only online now, I guess I could have exported it as a pdf.
I built a greenhouse with a ridge beam last year. This year I'm building a shed with a truss system (self made). I won't ever do a ridge beam again.
Nice, did you find some plans for the trusses ? (I’m guessing not really necessary for a shed)
Abbot and Castello Construction.
Well first off, very few homes have the type of ceiling you are using in this home.
Most homes using conventionally cut roof rafters will be using a ridge board, not a ridge beam.
And they would also be using collar ties in order to connect the front and rear rafters together for additional strength.
I am somewhat surprised you didnt build a scaffold for erecting those ridge beams rather than using just a ladder.
And of coarse the scaffold could be used for installing all the rafters as well.
But i get the impression that there were lots of things done for effect on this project, and not for expediency.
I did what I could with what I had available, as simple as that.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Well as a professional home builder for over 45 years i see things a bit differently than the average guy when it comes to building houses.
You as a well educated person, having knowledge of the construction process, know full well that what ive said is correct.
@@ernieforrest7218 while I agree that most houses in the us do not have cathedral ceilings, it’s fairly common in mountainous regions. Almost all new houses in my area (western NC) contain several ridge beams for cathedral ceilings, in that case they need to be properly designed.
As opposed to that, I used to work in Texas, and there, structural ridge beams were not a thing, so yes, very location dependent.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Well, i havent always lived in Florida, and i am very familiar with mountainous regions of the country.
Especially the eastern part of the country.
For the most part, those building houses in those areas, many of which are used as vacation homes, are as concerned over cost as much as they are over design.
And in many cases, even more concerned with cost.
Vaulted ceilings as you well know can be achieved in different ways.
And the Ridge beam design you chose to use is but one of them.
The labor factor is a different situation completely.
Yes, there are job sites that dont permit direct access to material deliveries.
But then you can choose to use hand labor for moving material or choose to use machinery for doing it.
And the cost factor should at least consider the time involved as well.
Whoa, that was scary to watch!
😂
Bien joué, bon vidéo ! Mais un système de poulie.. next time ?
Oui ça aurait été une meilleure idée effectivement
Im confused...where is the tributary length of the ridge beam ? is it the tributary width in that calculator ? where is tributary length bro ?
It’s all in there
I’m sure your the only one in the world that built a house to code!!
I hope not 😂
Once the first beam was up you had something to put a pulley on. And I see you did, well kind of....
😂
It hurt my back watching you lift that..LMAO
Yeah I definitely was a little sore for a few days 🤣
Most builders don’t get it wrong . The purpose of the ridge beam is to be able to fasten the rafters one by one , then the rafters are placed opposing each other. And that is what creates the load structure… add collar ties and good
See that’s the difference between a ridge plate and a ridge beam, you don’t need collar ties with a ridge beam.
Hi. A doubt. You say that the wood formed from layers (LVL, I think you call it in the video) is more resistant than a single piece of wood? It seems surprisingly contradictory to me, when a priori, I would think that a single piece is more resistant than many smaller ones joined together, especially against the effect of humidity.
In any case, I trust your knowledge. Good video man!
Postscript: I hope the roof of my cabin does not fall on me 😂.
Yes, dealing with LVL’s on a daily basis for work as an engineer, I can assure you that they are much much stronger than an equivalent piece of solid wood.
You can use that online software to check your roof ridge if you’re curious 😁
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Ok. I go to check. Thanks for the response.
The thin layers are glued and pressed together. Much stronger.
Okay, I'll be the one to ask a dumb question. Why is it longer than the house?!
At the back, it’s longer to catch the roof overhang, at the front, I end up cutting the extra since I then go back and build a small front deck. If you watch all the following episodes, you’ll see everything I am mentioning.
The LVL is now a 2x6 because you notched it.
It’s only notched at the overhang
Oh, ha!
@@TruthSeeker1988 if I didn’t do that, I would have ended up with a 14” deep overhang with would be massive and hard to even trim.
Typically (from builders around here), overhangs are framed with 2x6 and they use a 1x8 trim board on the outside.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Yes, I was skimming through the video. I saw the word DIY and was just expecting something to be messed up. What you did is common practice. My fault for skimming through.
Rafters and roof soon this little cabin is built like a tank.
Cannot wait to dry it in! I’m so over putting my tarp on and still getting tons of rain though.
Member pitch on this should have been 0 at 7:24? Then roof pitch is 6/12 on the loads tab
Nice catch! Yes I should have left the member pitch at 0.
At the end of the day, I don’t think it affects the design thankfully.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy True, I'm sure it passes either way.
By the way this was a great vid I've been having trouble confidently sizing a ridge beam and somehow ended up here after a lot of searching.
For footings, do you know at what height above grade it would be reasonable to skip the wood posts and lay beams directly on the concrete piers w/ something like Simpson PBS connectors? I'm doing a 12' x 16' project, where my original idea was to get all of the sonotubes on level so beams can be placed across them. I have some elevation change so one side of the structure can be as low as I want, say 6" above grade, but the other side may be something like 2' or more above grade in order to get level. After watching your video on bracing your posts, I began wondering if this is a bad idea... but having trouble finding good references.
@@JS-ot4ki 2’ should be fine, I would have gone only with sonotubes if my highest point was only 2 feet.
The ridge beam will not sag if yout rafters are tied off well to the wall, and your walls are tied off well from wall to wall
Yes that’s correct but my ceiling will be a cathedral ceiling meaning that nothing will tie my walls together
This is why architects make the big bucks.
Taurrais pas pu mettre juste un LVL metton ?
You mean to span the whole length?
I really wanted a piece of heavy timber for the look, it would have had to be massive to span the whole way and almost impossible for me to install due to the weight so I decided to go with multiple smaller sections.
Should have built scaffolding and put ridge up first.
Maybe next time
What’s the size of that ridge beam ?
(2) 1.75 x 14” lvl
lenght?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy
@@justus9069 22’ or so
It’s a wonder no one was hurt doing this, some kind of Scaffolding is needed for framing this roof. You are going to spend so much time and energy moving the only ladder back and forth and running up and down it just to put the rafters up.
This project needs to take on a more professional approach, before someone hurt.,
It would have been easier for sure.
Having said that, framing is all done and nobody got hurt 😃
Give Boise Cascade all your money, for nothing.
The building code is very clear. Design must be by the empirical method. No openings, show calculations.
both end cut off like 55%, will extremely reduce the strength of the beam
It’s just for the small roof overhang. It’s common practice around here.
"Common Practice" doesn't mean it's correct. I'm not a carpenter nor an engineer but I know cutting half the beam at the end weakens the beam by half (at that end) that's a fact...
Don't undersize the beam... Then puts it over a door opening with a regular header. That needs to support all the weight of the roof. Hope they don't get snow.
My header was checked, it can take it
A relatively small header can take a lot of load over a small opening. Bigger openings require exponentially stronger headers.
Anybody heard of Primitive Pete? He was the character in shop class movies on how not to do something. This video is jobsite accident looking for a place to happen.
😂 thankfully nothing bad happened
After viewing, I need to go see my chiropractor.
😂😂😂
Scissor truss
Could have been an option
Smart enough to use a load calculator …. Not smart enough to use a Lull.
😂
Just came across this video a year in. You provide some great explanations. ua-cam.com/video/VuW0q3jTw3w/v-deo.htmlsi=ENzoPJzvPL6R_3c1 is also a perfect reference from Weyerhaeuser for all of the commenters or future viewers that could use a refresher on the differences between ridge boards versus ridge beams and rafter ties versus collar ties as none of those mean the same thing. Knowing the differences between these two roof framing systems equals safer design, construction, and housing performance for everyone.
Absolutely! There are a lot of confusions out there.
Builders don't get it wrong, we do it according to plans we receive.
You have a problem with it, take it up with the engineers.
Well I’m not sure what state you’re in, but I’ll tell you that here in NC, builders build without engineering plans hence why they sometimes get it wrong and install an undersized ridge beam.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Texas, you cannot get a permit without engineering plans.
I'm surprised you can elsewhere.
@@ajs96350 I’m as surprised as you Max, I moved here from Houston. It’s crazy to us especially that most houses are on sloped terrain due to the mountainous landscape.
Here in Alaska we don't need engineered plans in most jurisdictions. I've sized hundreds of beams for projects like this and I'm not an engineer. I do know how to properly size them though.
A lot of areas in the US, especially rural areas, do not require engineering. Usually, the draftsman or the lumber suppliers do the calcs. The downside of that is that some know what they are doing and others do not.
You have your ladder set up wrong. Walk up the beam with it on Your shoulder
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You may want to account for "notch shear" when calculating your beam size. You cut the LVL pretty substantially. Notch shear is usually based on less than the depth of the beam at the bearing point.
Actually the ridge beam is full depth from support to support. Only notched at the overhang, watch the follow up episodes and you’ll see that the reduced height ridge beam Overhand doesn’t carry much of anything .
Thanks, I didn't catch that. You have a really nice project. I just subscribed! @@TheDIYCabinGuy
@@Solar-Architect thanks !
I love how “do it yourselvers “ grab the code book , over build everything then bash builders who have been doing this for years without fail… here you’ve added more weight to your walls without adding any real strength. Pretty presumptuous !!
Trust me , the beam is sized appropriately for local snow and dead loads.
Just because your building doesn't fall over, doesn't mean it was built correctly.
Codes are put in place for public safety. They are written because failure can be reasonably anticipated or incidents of failure have already occurred. My advice is always to fully comply.
I am not sure the installation method was the safest. Lot of load on that ladder.
Im not sure if two lams were enough, much safer with four or six...
You guys need to hit the gym 💪
😂😂😂
Engineers are EXPENSIVE. Use a draftsmen, they can do the calculations at the fraction of the cost.
That’s true, as long as your county/city doesn’t require actual stamped plans
@@TheDIYCabinGuy most don't unless it is something specail that they don't see often and want to make sure it's safe.
As a draftsman, I stand behind my calculations, but I would recommend using an engineer on more complicated projects whether it is required or not. This project is a piece of cake to size the beams, headers, and footers, but as a project gets bigger and more complex there are many more factors involved. Most draftsman are just using shorthand and using sizing tables. A good engineer looks at the entire building as a system and can give much more accurate calculations.
@@dallinweir yeah this cabin is very easy, I’m sure the guy at the building supply store would be fine sizing most structural elements. You’re absolutely correct, on a 5000 SF multi level home, it can get a little more complex.
just SMH so much wrong here. valiant effort
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overkill
If you say so
I don't care how you do it, so long as you show the calculations that meet the local code. Otherwise it's jackleg.
Thanks
That ridge board is ridiculously over sized a smaller size will not sag if the rafters are reasonably spaced.
See that’s the difference between a ridge board and a ridge beam. Mine is a ridge beam and needs to be sized appropriately
I think the wording in the video is confusing. As you mention, this is a ridge board application but with a "beam" sized to support the weight. I'm not an engineer, but I think this application might still warrant "some" collar ties to offset the rafters pushing out the walls given they are not sitting on top of a beam, but attached to the side.
@@davidfifth6109 not needed because this is a structural ridge beam and not a ridge plate
@@TheDIYCabinGuy while I understand your terms, by placing the rafters adjacent to the LVL it is a "board" not a "beam" which supports from below. It's a novel application of a ridge beam/board. FWIW your choice when using the website calculator clearly was a beam underneath the rafters. Again, you've got a novel idea, a hybrid that maybe a bit confusing per many comments. With respect, I'm not suggesting it's wrong or will fail, again reading the comments, I believe it's confusing calling this application a "beam".
@@davidfifth6109 just so you know, I’m a licensed engineer and I design ridge beams for clients on a weekly basis. It’s very common.
That was more grunting and groaning than I was expecting.
😂😂😂
I'd recommend using helmets when working.
Probably wouldn’t be a bad idea !
A burly beam requires a burly man to lift it into place.
Which I clearly aren’t 😂
Use your local building code before sizing your ridge beam. I just saved yall 15 minutes of your life
Nice!
This is just one of the times i feel you purposely attempt to make the process appear more difficult.
There is a thing called a scaffold, they really arent all that difficult to build, and they make things much easier and safer as well as making the job go faster.
With a scaffold built on the floor from wall to wall it not only would serve to set the ridge in place but for installing all the roof rafters as well.
As for the ridge dimensions, that depends upon the roof design as you well know.
In some cases the ridge simply acts as a nailer for the rafters.
In cases where no other framing members such as ceiling joist and collar ties are used as in your design, then yes, the ridge supports much of the roof with the walls supporting the rest.
It in fact has little to do with builders, and everything to do with the designer/architect.
Thanks! And my comment towards the builder is that lots of houses get built with no architect/engineer involved which sometimes leads to undersized ridge beams (I have seen my fair share)