Great video! I needed to salvage an old chuck so I could use it as a clamping mechanism/jig on a dividing head for an upcoming project. This video was a tremendous help in getting the old chuck back to good working order. Thanks!
Great video, for years i have wondered how these chucks were opened, my drill press is forty years old and the chuck needs attention, thanks for the great explanation
Warning !!!!!!!!!! Should you lower the jaws just below the nose of the chuck body, as indicated at 1:30 in the video, the base of the jaws may still contact the sleeve as you press it off and you may possibly damage the ends of the threads on the jaws. You would be better served to to use a PVC plumbing fitting (or other appropriate OD/ID diameter short pipe or wood dowel with a partial center hole) that can bear on the nose of the chuck while giving a center hole/area to allow the jaws to be raised above the nose of the body of the chuck while the sleeve is removed (and avoid any pressure being applied to the jaws). This better guarantees the bottom ends of the jaws inside the chuck body will be free and clear of the sleeve as it is pressed off. I followed this video as instructed and it buggered off a portion of the last thread on jaw #1. So now in operation, when the jaws are almost fully extended (closed), there is no thread on the #1 jaw to be engaged by the threaded split ring and that jaw slips down from the other 2 jaws. I hope to use some JB Weld to recreate that scant final tooth on the end of the jaw to keep it engaged with the threaded ring when fully extended. BTW, sleeves on drill chucks cannot normally be removed by holding the chuck in your hand and hammering on the back of the body of the chuck. The tolerances are too close and more force will be needed like from a press, vise or using a large F or C clamp as a press.
I recently disassembled the same chuck which was mounted on an old air drill. I used a machinist parallel clamp instead of a socket for the back end, and a vise to press it apart. It was quite tight so hitting it like you did would not have worked. I was surprised to see the grease inside was more like dried varnish. I had to scrape everything to clean it up. I had to use the vise again to press together even after being all cleaned and fresh grease.
oh heck yes!.. perfect tidbit brother.. thanks a million.. I am about to tear my jacobs down now but was unsure of the "hidden" faults i might screw up. You nailed if for me first time outta the blocks.. bravo!
Thanks for the video. I have an old Jacobs Chuck from a salvage yard. Whilst it cleaned up nicely, the jaw points have worn, so I have to replace them.
Would green sleeve retainer be appropriate to use? I have one that just developed this exact problem. I thought the rings were broken but that didn’t make sense because it wouldn’t have been able to be installed in one piece. Thanks for the education.
A bit worried about the lock tight if you ever have to refurbish it later. I had to use a press to get one apart that had used that method. I would try to clean the parts or perhaps run the correct file over the parts.
Wow, so simple! Now I have mine apart so I can repair whatever is causing it to bind at about 1/8" dia. It's free above 1/4" dia. Not sure exactly why yet....
Thanks, this old machinist has never disassembled a Jacobs Chuck. They usually end up getting thrown into the scrap bin after a hard life of abuse....but from now on there will be no rest for the weary, they are going to be ripped open, have their guts pulled out and put back to work....kind of like what happened to Me. : )
Thanks for the video. I just rebuilt an old Jacob's chuck, based on this. My jaws were no retracting smoothly, which was a bit better with the jaws from the rebuild kit. Running (just by hand) a 12mm drill (I didn't have 15/32" drill bit) into the recesses made them smooooth. Worth trying.
In my search results, your video looked a good first choice... it was, so second choice didn't get a chance! I have just finished a refurb of a seventy year old lathe. It had been in damp storage for sixteen years, so it wasn't pretty! The Jacobs tailstock chuck is very "brown". It moves, but from the "feel" of it a bit of your treatment is in order! A teensy tip for you: I suspect that, like me, you find dictating to Google works great for text input. However, don't trust it... proof-read everything. Check out the description of this video: "Here's a quick video on out of disassemble" did you mean "Here's a quick video on HOW TO disassemble"? Also: "It will apply to any industrial chalk" did you mean "It will apply to any industrial CHUCK"? Thanks for taking the time to make the video, I appreciate it.
So I wound my jaws below the front of the chuck, a Jacobs just like yours. Supported outer ring on vice jaws and used a hide hammer to drive it out. What you didn't say us that the rear of the jaws impede on the inner rear ring of the collar. Result....totally fucked. Collar bust and so is the threaded ring split in two. Bin job. Wish I'd never seen this video. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I only wanted to service it!
Sus lan artık herkes tavsiye ediyorum ediyoruz gerçekten arkadaşlar süper matkap ucuna mandren iç bölüme hafif şekilde az miktarda ısıya dayanıklı gres yağı sürün kullanın arkadaşlar mandren daha iyi güzel mantıklı süper olacak arkadaşlar
Great video! I needed to salvage an old chuck so I could use it as a clamping mechanism/jig on a dividing head for an upcoming project. This video was a tremendous help in getting the old chuck back to good working order. Thanks!
Great video, for years i have wondered how these chucks were opened, my drill press is forty years old and the chuck needs attention, thanks for the great explanation
Quick and straight to the point video. Perfect .
Great video. I really liked how succinct it was: covered the important stuff without chattering on & on.
Warning !!!!!!!!!! Should you lower the jaws just below the nose of the chuck body, as indicated at 1:30 in the video, the base of the jaws may still contact the sleeve as you press it off and you may possibly damage the ends of the threads on the jaws. You would be better served to to use a PVC plumbing fitting (or other appropriate OD/ID diameter short pipe or wood dowel with a partial center hole) that can bear on the nose of the chuck while giving a center hole/area to allow the jaws to be raised above the nose of the body of the chuck while the sleeve is removed (and avoid any pressure being applied to the jaws). This better guarantees the bottom ends of the jaws inside the chuck body will be free and clear of the sleeve as it is pressed off. I followed this video as instructed and it buggered off a portion of the last thread on jaw #1. So now in operation, when the jaws are almost fully extended (closed), there is no thread on the #1 jaw to be engaged by the threaded split ring and that jaw slips down from the other 2 jaws. I hope to use some JB Weld to recreate that scant final tooth on the end of the jaw to keep it engaged with the threaded ring when fully extended. BTW, sleeves on drill chucks cannot normally be removed by holding the chuck in your hand and hammering on the back of the body of the chuck. The tolerances are too close and more force will be needed like from a press, vise or using a large F or C clamp as a press.
I recently disassembled the same chuck which was mounted on an old air drill. I used a machinist parallel clamp instead of a socket for the back end, and a vise to press it apart. It was quite tight so hitting it like you did would not have worked. I was surprised to see the grease inside was more like dried varnish. I had to scrape everything to clean it up. I had to use the vise again to press together even after being all cleaned and fresh grease.
Ok we deserve a tool box tour now. You must have tons and tons of tools. And we want to see em sir. 👍🏻
He has one!
Thank you. You helped me save a chuck I did something stupid with. And I learned something in the process!
oh heck yes!.. perfect tidbit brother.. thanks a million.. I am about to tear my jacobs down now but was unsure of the "hidden" faults i might screw up. You nailed if for me first time outta the blocks.. bravo!
That is pretty darn cool, I had no idea! My professional grade chucks have never had that problem, but if they ever do, great repair.
No gloves. Real man and stuff.
Thank you Catus that was purrfect!
Thank you very much for making this great and helpful video!
Thanks for the video. I have an old Jacobs Chuck from a salvage yard. Whilst it cleaned up nicely, the jaw points have worn, so I have to replace them.
Hello again Catus Maximus
Thank you for the Great Video. I always learn something new. Thank you again
Would green sleeve retainer be appropriate to use? I have one that just developed this exact problem. I thought the rings were broken but that didn’t make sense because it wouldn’t have been able to be installed in one piece. Thanks for the education.
A bit worried about the lock tight if you ever have to refurbish it later. I had to use a press to get one apart that had used that method. I would try to clean the parts or perhaps run the correct file over the parts.
Learn something new everyday. Thank you
Wow, so simple! Now I have mine apart so I can repair whatever is causing it to bind at about 1/8" dia. It's free above 1/4" dia. Not sure exactly why yet....
Thanks, this old machinist has never disassembled a Jacobs Chuck. They usually end up getting thrown into the scrap bin after a hard life of abuse....but from now on there will be no rest for the weary, they are going to be ripped open, have their guts pulled out and put back to work....kind of like what happened to Me. : )
Excellent video. That’s so well described I’m going let my wife do this job.
Cheers
Thanks for the video. I just rebuilt an old Jacob's chuck, based on this. My jaws were no retracting smoothly, which was a bit better with the jaws from the rebuild kit. Running (just by hand) a 12mm drill (I didn't have 15/32" drill bit) into the recesses made them smooooth. Worth trying.
This may be what I need to do.
Excellent video
what model is your chuck? I have a #32 I need to repair the arbor on and can't find if it's threaded or JT#2
Great video!!
Good informative video. Thank you😀
Excellent thank you
Designing Excellent
Thanks Greatest Cat, very cool! :)
Helpful! Thanks!
In my search results, your video looked a good first choice... it was, so second choice didn't get a chance!
I have just finished a refurb of a seventy year old lathe. It had been in damp storage for sixteen years, so it wasn't pretty! The Jacobs tailstock chuck is very "brown". It moves, but from the "feel" of it a bit of your treatment is in order!
A teensy tip for you: I suspect that, like me, you find dictating to Google works great for text input. However, don't trust it... proof-read everything.
Check out the description of this video:
"Here's a quick video on out of disassemble" did you mean "Here's a quick video on HOW TO disassemble"?
Also:
"It will apply to any industrial chalk" did you mean "It will apply to any industrial CHUCK"?
Thanks for taking the time to make the video, I appreciate it.
Thanks!
thank you
Thanks lot
👍
Thankyou
So I wound my jaws below the front of the chuck, a Jacobs just like yours. Supported outer ring on vice jaws and used a hide hammer to drive it out. What you didn't say us that the rear of the jaws impede on the inner rear ring of the collar. Result....totally fucked. Collar bust and so is the threaded ring split in two. Bin job. Wish I'd never seen this video. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I only wanted to service it!
Why tf am I watching this I don't even own a chuck like this
Masih infonya SMG bermanfaat bagi semua orang
Most ofthe chuvks can't repair. Can't remove the outer body.
Andrei melinte
prečo je preklad anglickí a nie slovensk8😊
Sus lan artık herkes tavsiye ediyorum ediyoruz gerçekten arkadaşlar süper matkap ucuna mandren iç bölüme hafif şekilde az miktarda ısıya dayanıklı gres yağı sürün kullanın arkadaşlar mandren daha iyi güzel mantıklı süper olacak arkadaşlar