It's a pain when things like this happen. I had to do something similar on my layout. Ended up fitting another crossbeam with a slight gap between it and the underside of the board, then driving wedges into the gap to raise the board level. Still, keeps it all interesting!
it's so tempting to just leave it and live with it.. but sometimes the niggle just needs addressing.. there is still a good chance that I'll make it worse rather than better of course! :-)
Surely the easy fix is to take out the trackpins (if you are using them) on the low side track and use a knife or a spatula to get the track unglued - then either add a credit card under it or just jiggle the ballast untill its at the correct level, then use the dilute pva to reglue the ballast. It's not the end of the world to fix.
cheers.. you'd think so.. but I haven't used pins and the track in this section is glued to thin plasticard, which is then glued to the surface.. and I've soldered to the track aligners.. so I've made it more complicated! I'll update some time soon, as I've done the 'repair'
It's a pain when things like this happen.
I had to do something similar on my layout. Ended up fitting another crossbeam with a slight gap between it and the underside of the board, then driving wedges into the gap to raise the board level.
Still, keeps it all interesting!
it's so tempting to just leave it and live with it.. but sometimes the niggle just needs addressing.. there is still a good chance that I'll make it worse rather than better of course! :-)
@mog1324 If you leave it, it's just going to bug you. Best get it sorted.
Surely the easy fix is to take out the trackpins (if you are using them) on the low side track and use a knife or a spatula to get the track unglued - then either add a credit card under it or just jiggle the ballast untill its at the correct level, then use the dilute pva to reglue the ballast. It's not the end of the world to fix.
cheers.. you'd think so.. but I haven't used pins and the track in this section is glued to thin plasticard, which is then glued to the surface.. and I've soldered to the track aligners.. so I've made it more complicated! I'll update some time soon, as I've done the 'repair'
Did you say HO.. So your modeling to 3.5mm.?
Hi, yes.. it's HO.. 1/87 or 3.5mm (American)