great work. I found the most rewarding mod I did was re painting the black on the roof cap. flat black, this removes the shine and a majority of the "toy look" cheers
I order one of this car too. Great job man. I am planning to upgrade it to. I made some upgrades in another toy grade crawler, and I figured out that tires are one of the most important upgrade on this cars. It turn the car to another level. I hope to see a video from you with new tires too. Well done.
Thanks! For sure tires make a massive difference - I have yet to go any further with this truck but I would love to get some good metal rims and squishy tires for it! Have fun with your new machine, friend!
So I finally have my sons built mn 99 with a dumborc x6, metal diffs, driveshafts, 370 2 speed motor now just gotta hook up my lights lol thanks for your help he's well chuffed with it
Happy for you & your son, Kev! I think I have covered the stock lights in a video somewhere. Made up that I've helped or inspired in the slightest so it's all good!
@@nathencosgrove877 do you mean the metal driveshafts and 2 speed 370 motor with no other mods? To be honest MrE is probably the best person to ask as I'm a total noob
Its due to the original springs that are inside the shocks. You can tune them by manipulating different dimensions of what spring you use inside. This is sorta from memory so here goes: The springs as they come are a 7mm coil diameter, 20mm long with the spring coil wires diameter at 0.6/0.7mm To soften them and give more range I replaced the springs with some the same 7x20mm but dropped the wire diameter down to 0.5mm. You could very well play around with lots of different approaches to getting the suspension tuned how you desire like a 21/22mm tall spring with thinner wire for example or do a 20mmx0.4mm and perhaps run another 20x4x0.3 inside the outer one. You could even get 25mm and trim them to do away with the tighter coils at either end with a pair of snippers. Not forgetting there is some adjustment on the shock tower plus the extreme locating of those upper shock mounts to different places on the frame rails utilizing my cache of 3d printed chassis parts , there is also a jig included for drilling the 3 extra points for them included if you want to go that far moving the mounting fore and aft of the stock location. Personally I'm very happy with stainless 20x7x0.5 on their own which they have stayed at roughly since this video was published (was done after this video and never got around to documenting it). Hope this helps!
Lovely job that you've made of this truck. I went for the 370 geared motor and alloy transfer box instead,it only moves at crawling speed though. I've kept the original links except for the steering tie-rod and steering arm,I extended the length of the kit servo arm to help minimise the crazy angle at the hub.
Thanks! I have the same snailbox on my WPl B24 so thought this woulkd be a happy medium which it is evidently - Have a bag of metal upgrade internals to go in this 2speed box in the very near future. The steering is still not perfect but I'm considering a 3d printed servo on axle conversion, Happy crawling, friend!
Have you had any trouble with the style of driveshaft you used? Other enthusiasts have said to avoid the "U-Joint" style driveshafts {the ones you have installed} in favor of the "CV {constant velocity} type", which use a ball and cup. The CV style are not to be confused with "dog bone" driveshafts though, which are quite crude. I think the hatred of the U-Joint style stems from their inability to handle extreme angles, or at least that is the belief*. I like the look of the U-Joint shafts better because they look scale and just like the real thing. Thanks
I have & addressed it in a previous video to some degree. you are certainly correct that the angle is the key and from memory if you have any of them too far onto the diff input they will bind on that also.
I really appreciate you are a pioneer of this and your rig is very impressive and ingenuitive.. well done! More flex would be nice but fantastic result anyhow 🎉 Question please :) 3 years on now... I have bought a cheap 2nd hand mn d90 to convert to a hobby grade trail truck / crawler Would you do anything differently today if you were me and what kits would you reccomend now please?
Thank you! I'm not sure what I would do differently, maybe use MN specific parts that available. I have a 540 setup that was destined for it but never got around to it. That being said with the time and investment with what went into it, maybe a medium grade FTX or even a Traxxas would have been viable in the long run. The journey was alot of fun and I still enjoy taking this thing out. The body still looks stunning so even maybe putting it on a more capable chassis.
You have done an excellent job on upgrading this Toy grade to Top grade mate, well done, how much have you spent on the upgrades in total, ? Great build video my friend 👍😊👍
Wow thanks, Tony - Our patron saint of bashing :) I would estimate a little in excess of a hundred quid aquiring the parts bit by bit over time, grabbing some on offer here and there - the big cost was in time for the recent mn90 chassis parts collection I did which took a crazy amount of time and effort.
Hi. What screws did you use to attach the pull rod bases to each axle housing? I tried using the ones that came with my MN99 and they broke so I had to dismantle the rear axle housing and pry them out - luckily the broken screws unscrewed. The part I'm referring to are called "pull rod base seat mounts" on eBay. Mine didn't even come with screws from Banggood when I purchased them. I'm quite ticked off as I was finally hoping to upgrade my MN99 to ful metal underneath. I may try and use some spare WPL screws to see if they fit. Otherwise, I don't suppose you have 8 screws I could have? Thanks. Great video btw and I hope you are keeping safe at this difficult time.
I'll pull the MN out and have a check , I'd assume I have some in stock - where are you located? Thanks, just keeping the chin up and trying to to keep little man occupied etc, Hope you and your family are all coping.
Ok, I have enough to do you a set, they are identical in thread and length but socket head instead of cap head (will be fine) so now just a matter of logistics etc. Where are you?
@@MrE. Hello, thanks for your reply and looking for them. I'm based in South Gloucestershire. I've run into some problems with my MN99 metal upgrades. The full metal axles and housings are the silver MN90 type. I can't use the suspension tie rods (threaded poles with screw on black nylon and brass balls type) with the metal bracket that sits atop each axle housing as the long screws aren't compatible for securing the stock plastic shock absorbers in place. This meant simply using the stock plastic pull rod base seat mounts atop the metal axle housings instead of the metal parts I had bought, along with the stock plastic pull rods. I found I could use WPL no.1pwa type short cross head screws to attach both stock and metal pull rod base seat mounts to the metal axle housings. However, the pinion gears keep slipping on the rear. I tried adjusting the metal drive shafts but to no avail. I'm really narked as all the metal parts cost a fair whack altogether and now I find they are really badly made. I would have simply swopped everything back to stock plastic (with metal gears as this is an MN99) but I had to break the male part to one of the plastic driveshafts to remove it from the gearbox/motor unit when I was upgrading it all. Basically, with the metal axles/housings on it, in reverse, the rear wheels do not turn when powered on. Without the driveshafts connected, all the gears work fine. Very smooth. It's just when it's all connected up the rear wheels won't turn in reverse when using the remote. So, a few more questions, 1) to use to metal pull rods and metal pull rod seat mounts, you need upgraded shock absorbers, you can't combine the metal parts with the plastic shock absorbers can you? What shocks do you recommend? 2) Why are the rear gears not meshing? I couldn't even properly fit the ball bearings into the red cover parts the pinion sits in on each axle housing (which connects to the driveshaft) even after shaving the red paint off. How do I message you my details? Address etc? I think what I really need is the male part of a plastic MN90/99 drive shaft and simply downgrade my MN99 back to all stock plastic with metal gears. I'm really disappointed that these metal parts have been incompatible or faulty. The pinions feel loose in the axles too. Lmk how to message you my details so perhaps we could either chat on the phone about all this or if you can help me with a plastic male drive shaft and whatever else I need to fix these faults in my MN99. Btw, I'm ok thanks. Am self isolating since February due to having had Pulmonary Sarcoidois years ago which left me vulnerable to viral infections and because I have Hypothyroidism.
@@MrE. Hello. Update: the MN metal upgrade parts I bought are crap. They must be knock offs. The long rear axle slips sideways, doesn't fit correctly no matter what I adjusted. It doesn't mesh with the rear pinion gear. The rear pinion gear was being eaten by the rear diff when it did make contact. In reverse it was jolting and shuddering. The MN metal driveshafts were sloppy. No matter what I adjusted. The front steering rod was too short so I used another adjustable one but it won't quite sit properly. I've replaced the stock plastic/metal rear axle back on but the male plastic rear drive shaft is a bugger to get back on the motor shaft. I would change the front axle/housing/steering rods back to stock plastic parts but the front male drive shaft part broke. Those metal pull tie rods and bases are useless without upgraded shocks so I'll be going back to plastic again as well. The rear axle eye is all stock again. I'm really sad about this as I spent over £56 on MN upgrade parts on Banggood and a further £11 on new metal axle housings on eBay! All utterly useless now. There is something you could kindly help me with and that's two plastic male drive shaft parts to fit back onto the 260 motor I have so I can reconnect the stock plastic front axles with plastic housings and steering rods. How can I send you my details on here? It's either you kindly helping me or buying another 260 motor on eBay which has the male plastic drive shaft parts already attached. If you have a 260 motor with those parts attached (including motor wire and communicator already soldered on it) so much the better. What a waste! I've never had these sorts of issues with my WPL stuff except a front gear and pinion not meshing since upgrading a B24 (everything works fine when not connected to the driveshaft). Haven't a clue what's wrong as I've dismantled her a few times. Thoughts? Anyhow, hope you are well and hear from you soon. Thanks again. 👍
@@TheMasterNo6 Very odd that nothing fits or works, as mentioned previous ,I went through the axles to get them right. I think the only MN stock casing I have is also too far gone to use so I'd get onto eBay and order one. Do you still need the bolts that affix the 4link mounting to the axle housing?
Very good upgrade,do you have a listing of the pièces you change and the Price and finally where is the best store i can buy all of the piece tank to you
Thank you! I have quite a comprehensive playlist of all the the iterations and parts etc , every video has parts listed and linked for the most part (linked in the top right - click the ( i ). As for price, this was probably enough to just buy a decent traxxas in the first place with all the time put into the 3d chassis parts etc. MN series has a much more broad availability of hopup parts now , back when this was done ,it was new and had to be done with WPL gear.
hi. the Metal Traction 4-Link you are indicating here is not compatible with mn-99; i have the same titanium axles and ordered the Metal Traction 4-Link from banggood but there is a diference in size. any ideas?
I had to space the upper/center of the 4 link as mentioned at around 6:00 in the vid - the MN99 looks quite similar but I don't have one on hand to check sadly. Wondering if BG has change what they are sending out.
@@MrE. Hi. thanks for the reply; in my case the problem is that the screws holes in the axes did not match those on the traction link due to size; the ones I got shipped from banggood are 57mm wide and for the mn-99 what is needed are the ones with 63mm wide as only now I've found out on ebay as banggood doesnt have them on stock. thanks again
Im basically at the same stage as you apart from having a winch on mine what battery are you using for your car please any link for one other than the standard one
I am using 2S lipos ,started with any old 450/550 I had and use 850mah 2s now - all of them would out last my concentration and be plenty for a good crawl or trail run from memory. This is the closest to what I use bit.ly/3wbYZrV (I removed the balnace grip thing). I had a quick check and the hood space should be plenty for that 850mah, even a bit extra to add a bit of padding. Hope this helps!
So the shocks you have fit from the get go? Great video! Waiting on the MN-99 and want to upgrade the shocks first but couldn't find the proper ones! Cheers
They will fit the stock MN 90/99 with cutting the little round tabs the original suspension slipos onto if you arn't using my custom 3d printed stuff. Have fun ,Friend!
I'm doubting of buying the MN-99, for crawling and fpv. Would that be a good car for it? And what are the upgrades that you recommend the most? Love your video BTW, you explain everything nice and easy
Thank you! I would most certainly recommend aftermarket radio gear & electronics to start with. secondly would be a strong motor & drive line. A good cheap mod for crawling is adding any weight as low as possible. This is a hard thing to answer as every little upgrade helps but I hope I have given you a little to think about. Happy crawling, friend!
@MrE the kit is a 1/12 but all your replacement part links are 1/16, is that okay? I want to go ahead and do the same mods as you have shown. Please advice. Thanks
The WPL & MN scales are all over the place and not accurate, the MN90 has a fraction of a mm wider frame rails but are pretty much exactly the like the WPL C14, everything else pretty much the same besides the body and wheel size plus a couple of little mounting discrepancies. Have fun, friend!
@@charitho1 They are the standard aftermarket ones in the description currently (The springs are inside) but if you are after the custom softer ones I think were mentioned, they are "0.5*7*20mm Stainless" found on any of the usual online stores etc.
My ackerman seems neutral except when the steering gets to it's physical limit and then theres only about a mm of play it seems. I'd guess that the front facing arms on the steering hubs are not ideal but without going crazy modified , I doubt you could flip them around to a more conventional positive ackerman geometry. I'll have a think on it & see if I can come up with a solution.
Yes, the 3d printed parts only facilitate the aftermarket shocks and even without, you could mount them by cutting the standard plastic trays if needed.
@@MrE. and could I fit the original Shocks to this setup? And I'm planning on running these diff on the 370 motor with the metal gear box is that ok? And have you faced any problems with these diffs after running?
The original shocks should fit like stock so no problem there, running a 370 on metal gears is also no problem as I am running it on that setup even through an upgraded to metal 2speed box. Other then the problems I documented in the "Fixing Dodgy Titanium Axles" video they have been perfect, my only gripe would be regards the steering angle is a little less than optimal but it's a small tradeoff for such a beefy setup.
@@imethpieris4930 No, but I am very proactive in circumventing stuff like that using threadlock and even 2 grubscrews where permits (I think the driveshafts took 2 setscrews as they were smaller ones and included extra). To extrapolate a bit further I also let the threadlock cure for a good time before stressing it as that can cause probs aswell ( Ask me how I know with a 450 Heli :) )
Everything I fitted was WPL, the MN90 is almost a clone across the board of the original C series WPL chassis spec (only difference is conveyed in my 3d printed parts vid - a mm or 2 to the track and a couple of holes). Just the metal axles would fit without any modding to the stock 4 link part that connects to it iirc.
@@kevjames5656 I used a longer bolt to raise the attachment point, See my video Gaz 66 Lift - Redeux [ WPL Metal Leaf Springs Revisted ] for an indepth on the same problem iirc.
Stock - nothing is waterproof as such but some marine type grease in the moving parts and conformal coating/hot glue or epoxy on the electronics will make it so. As for the battery I use a 2S lipo, a 550 or an 850mAh will give me pretty much endless running with a couple.
I've bought those titanium axles. I'm going to be using them on my tan WPL B1/ B14 now? Anyhow, on Banggood they say these titanium axles aren't compatible with the MN90 or 99...did you modify yours? I expect you haven't. Can you provide links to the parts on Banggood you have used for your upgrade? I want to buy MN style silver axle housings for one thing...also, are WPL metal upgrade parts compatible? Could I use a WPL full OP upgrade kit including their metal driveshafts for parts on an MN99?
I didn't modify them , BG doesn't have knowledgable staff like that hence why we try to pass the real info on, No idea why they've changed it to a B1, prehaps some internals are slightly different. You can't use a metal OP kit on the MN's housings ,there is a mm or 2 difference but the whole axles from WPL fit,also the metal driveshafts etc as seen in this vid. Heres lists for both types of chassis for mounting the titaniums in full upgrade mentality: For these Titanium Axles: bit.ly/2VsyfRO Fit to a leaf sprung C section frame rail: Leaf Springs: bit.ly/2WU0vhC Metal Stiffening Leafs: bit.ly/2GAHjQn Axel Mounts: bit.ly/2TDxhSc For a 4 Link frame: Metal Traction 4-Link: bit.ly/2Wf30ty Metal Ball links: bit.ly/2Wf42Ws Metal Suspension: bit.ly/2wC0mUe Metal driveshafts for both recommended bit.ly/2TEEx07
@@MrE. My Titanium axles were lost by Hermes along with the metal servo I had ordered. Really disappointed by that. I've opened a PayPal dispute. Hermes seem to have lost my items once they got them on March 7th. Can't even speak to anyone at Hermes. So WPL metal axles fit inside MN axle housings you mean?
@@TheMasterNo6 The WPL axles are a little bit short for transplanting into MN idealy, They might work but personaly I wouldn't as you might loose to much material for the shaft ends to seat on. Hermes is really good for me but with whats going on, lots of new people etc I'm not that suprised - prehaps I'm an exception as we have alot of contact and traffic through Hermes both ways, with the couple of main local staff being friends, one of which I grew up & went to school with (cough decades ago). I am getting to your larger message so dont fret!
@@MrE. Yes I saw your other reply and replied to it. Thanks. My local Hermes Depo is rubbish. I can't even speak to anyone either online or on the phone about my missing parcel. The titanium axle housings and metal servo arrived in the UK on March 7th to their main hub in Avonmouth and that's where they've languished, or were lost or as I reckon some thieving git stole them. I can't even chase Hermes up on it. Their webchat and phone line are useless. Tried contacting them via my Girlfriends Twitter and they never bothered to respond. Maybe I could give you the tracking and you could ask your contacts at Hermes to look into it for me as well as hopefully helping me with a replacement MN99 260 motor with the male drive shaft parts attached and motor wire with white plug and communicator soldered on to it as well as those screws? Thanks again.
@@TheMasterNo6 I wouldn't have any means to get in contact with Hermes that you don't have access to, All I have at the moment is contactless secure drops - I'd assume they will have a backlog or something. Every delivery firm is getting hammered ,probably 5x more stuff to deliver with half the staff ( my neighbour postman had lots of different rounds to do today which was 3 days worth on each ,its crappy for him with 1 round at the best of times before this hit the fan). I have just received a larger consignement that was ordered 2 months ago for shipment on a 48hr international courier. Not to mention I am still waiting for a DJI HD shipment which isn't not exactly cheap from the same order, same story.. As for the motor / housing / driveshaft set, there is only one vendor which is carrying the 260 motor version which has all you need. A steal at £3.65: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000198941202.html Regards the bolts: You need 8x M2.5 x 12mm thread (the ones with the kit are 10mm thread iirc but they are a bit short) - I can't even post you a letter for the price they are selling them at, at the moment. Get them from this vendor on eBay :www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M2-M2-5-M3-A2-Stainless-Steel-Allen-Bolts-Socket-Cap-Screws-Hex-Head-DIN-912/313052576224?hash=item48e36339e0:m:mwnILIKdDi6SHhQVzzBk-iA Lastly, only leave one comment please, it gets a bit complicated with you asking pretty much the same thing in 2 rather huge seperate comments.
They certainly work but enough time has gone by that I think they now do most of these parts labeled for MN, including much of my 3d parts collection in metal.
@@ZIVGamingOfficial Well, this driving around in the vid's and the amount of hours I have invested in having fun with my son and the rather big playlist should speak for it's self. at the end of the day this is a heavily modified toy which probably cost more in the end than getting a Traxxas or Axial would have cost. Just the collection of 3d printed parts was hundreds of hours in the making.
Looking at lots of "trail" or "expedition ready" Defender 90s shows that most of the metal MN90 cosmetic upgrades are based on the real thing. There's full size D90s with that same style of under-bumper skid plate.
This was the stock small one at the time, but was upgraded to the 2 speed box with a 370, the ESC is a 20a brushed (most likely linked in the original video of the series).
Thats how I ended up doing it on this iirc, I think there are some smaller/thinker 4-links I saw a year or 2 ago that may have fitted but I've not even had this thing out in that long.
I have the same one and I want to do those upgrades my question is if I can run the same remote control and it's too old to the app Grace with the new motor and transfer case
The esc is for aftermarket receivers so the 3 coloured cable will plug into the receiver throttle channel, the red plug with the pins in is for the battery connection and the other red cable with holes for pins goes to the motor.
@@nathencosgrove877 The Corona virus has effected the supply chain hence the long times for shipping. Everything I have on order is 20-30 days until shipping where as usually it would be 24hrs, I think the Chinese new year also played a part.
@@rudds4736 It is supposedly 1/12 however neither the 1/16 or the 1/12 scale is right on any of the parallel WPL, MN, JJRC stuff - it's all over the place. These axles track is a mm or 2 off but fine as used.
it's am mm or 2 less width than the MN90's stock but fits fine. All of the WPL, JJRC, Fayee & MN scales are just plucked out of the sky for the most part.
@@MrE. coz that is good looking axle. What about the axle quality? Do you satisfied with the build quality? I have another axle for MN D90 in my list now.. i just want to get as much information before buying the right choice..
@@MrE. i need your suggestion for Traction Refit link above the axle, the one that link the axle to the frame. Is it all WPL, MN screw placement the same? I heard WPL and MN have different length..
@@zahirmd_ I have a 19 video (and growing) playlist of content i have produced since the WPLs stuff hit the market, linked in the top right of the video ( i ), it covers alot of what you ask & there's a whole video on getting these axles up to a reasonable standard.
@@zahirmd_ No ,all of that is exactly the same other than the slight difference in axle track width and some very minor difference in the chassis plates, again - check my playlist as I have loads of stuff covering everything, even custom 3d printed parts to go that bit further.
MN-90 Kit link: bit.ly/2Fo6tlp bit.ly/2Qlbqws 2 speed Box: bit.ly/2XxHB04 Metal Suspension: bit.ly/2wC0mUe Titanium Axles: bit.ly/2VsyfRO Driveshafts: bit.ly/2WgvHGl Metal Traction 4-Link: bit.ly/2Wf30ty Metal Bumper: bit.ly/2K4zS6C Metal Ball links: bit.ly/2Wf42Ws Links are always in the description.
Its made from some threaded rod and a couple of nuts - its covered in more detail in this video iirc: ua-cam.com/video/_NSH3LhOP1U/v-deo.html (my wpl gaz 66 with much the same problem)
Could use some nice heavy metal rims of some sort cetainly, the springs are swapped to softer 0.5*7*20mm Stainless at the moment & could probably even go down to 0.4x7's or other ones with less material for fine tuning.
Quite odd that almost 3 years after this was done when there was *NO* MN parts what so ever, going through every other offering the 2 speed used was by far the best - this is still in great working order. But hey, I've just become you're second subscriber and perhaps you could share your wisdom with us..
great work. I found the most rewarding mod I did was re painting the black on the roof cap. flat black, this removes the shine and a majority of the "toy look" cheers
mask off the sunroof ;) and I also used Costco cookie that to make windows !
I'll be sure to remember this when it gets some more attention, Cheers!
I order one of this car too. Great job man. I am planning to upgrade it to. I made some upgrades in another toy grade crawler, and I figured out that tires are one of the most important upgrade on this cars. It turn the car to another level. I hope to see a video from you with new tires too. Well done.
Thanks! For sure tires make a massive difference - I have yet to go any further with this truck but I would love to get some good metal rims and squishy tires for it!
Have fun with your new machine, friend!
@@MrE. yes, you should try it. I didn't find yet soft tires for the md90. But I am looking for. Keep up the good work.
So I finally have my sons built mn 99 with a dumborc x6, metal diffs, driveshafts, 370 2 speed motor now just gotta hook up my lights lol thanks for your help he's well chuffed with it
Happy for you & your son, Kev! I think I have covered the stock lights in a video somewhere.
Made up that I've helped or inspired in the slightest so it's all good!
@@MrE. awesome I'll have a look through your vids for that thanks again
kev james is that all I would need for my mn 99 is the drive shaft upgrade and wpl 370 motor everything else would be fine?
@@nathencosgrove877 do you mean the metal driveshafts and 2 speed 370 motor with no other mods? To be honest MrE is probably the best person to ask as I'm a total noob
kev james yes that is what I mean
Mine almost full metal too. Motor 370 with metal gearbox will change your car.
I love having the 370 on metal 2 speed, best of all worlds!
This looks fantastic, but the suspension doesn't look so flexible, could you maybe do something or show how to fix that
Its due to the original springs that are inside the shocks.
You can tune them by manipulating different dimensions of what spring you use inside.
This is sorta from memory so here goes:
The springs as they come are a 7mm coil diameter, 20mm long with the spring coil wires diameter at 0.6/0.7mm
To soften them and give more range I replaced the springs with some the same 7x20mm but dropped the wire diameter down to 0.5mm.
You could very well play around with lots of different approaches to getting the suspension tuned how you desire like a 21/22mm tall spring with thinner wire for example or do a 20mmx0.4mm and perhaps run another 20x4x0.3 inside the outer one.
You could even get 25mm and trim them to do away with the tighter coils at either end with a pair of snippers.
Not forgetting there is some adjustment on the shock tower plus the extreme locating of those upper shock mounts to different places on the frame rails utilizing my cache of 3d printed chassis parts , there is also a jig included for drilling the 3 extra points for them included if you want to go that far moving the mounting fore and aft of the stock location.
Personally I'm very happy with stainless 20x7x0.5 on their own which they have stayed at roughly since this video was published (was done after this video and never got around to documenting it).
Hope this helps!
Lovely job that you've made of this truck. I went for the 370 geared motor and alloy transfer box instead,it only moves at crawling speed though. I've kept the original links except for the steering tie-rod and steering arm,I extended the length of the kit servo arm to help minimise the crazy angle at the hub.
Thanks! I have the same snailbox on my WPl B24 so thought this woulkd be a happy medium which it is evidently - Have a bag of metal upgrade internals to go in this 2speed box in the very near future.
The steering is still not perfect but I'm considering a 3d printed servo on axle conversion, Happy crawling, friend!
top job fella...loved the look of the mn90 but wasnt to sure about upgrading now ive seen your one thinking one could be on the horizon...awesome
Thanks! glad to have given you info either way, definetly feels like a much more expensive vehicle now.
Have you had any trouble with the style of driveshaft you used? Other enthusiasts have said to avoid the "U-Joint" style driveshafts {the ones you have installed} in favor of the "CV {constant velocity} type", which use a ball and cup. The CV style are not to be confused with "dog bone" driveshafts though, which are quite crude. I think the hatred of the U-Joint style stems from their inability to handle extreme angles, or at least that is the belief*. I like the look of the U-Joint shafts better because they look scale and just like the real thing. Thanks
I have & addressed it in a previous video to some degree. you are certainly correct that the angle is the key and from memory if you have any of them too far onto the diff input they will bind on that also.
I really appreciate you are a pioneer of this and your rig is very impressive and ingenuitive.. well done!
More flex would be nice but fantastic result anyhow 🎉
Question please :)
3 years on now...
I have bought a cheap 2nd hand mn d90 to convert to a hobby grade trail truck / crawler
Would you do anything differently today if you were me and what kits would you reccomend now please?
Also are you still doing the 3dp parts for this please?
Thank you! I'm not sure what I would do differently, maybe use MN specific parts that available. I have a 540 setup that was destined for it but never got around to it.
That being said with the time and investment with what went into it, maybe a medium grade FTX or even a Traxxas would have been viable in the long run.
The journey was alot of fun and I still enjoy taking this thing out.
The body still looks stunning so even maybe putting it on a more capable chassis.
@@cmwontner All the 3d parts are sill available but I may make a custom part if its required.
@@MrE. OK thanks
That is one sweet rig!
Cant wait til mine is complete.
Thanks, Fella! Your's looks rather sweet aswell!
@@MrE. TY
You have done an excellent job on upgrading this Toy grade to Top grade mate, well done, how much have you spent on the upgrades in total, ? Great build video my friend 👍😊👍
Wow thanks, Tony - Our patron saint of bashing :)
I would estimate a little in excess of a hundred quid aquiring the parts bit by bit over time, grabbing some on offer here and there - the big cost was in time for the recent mn90 chassis parts collection I did which took a crazy amount of time and effort.
Well if you put the effort in then you get results, so you have certainly got results mate, well done and yourself a Pat on the back 👍😊👍
Hi. What screws did you use to attach the pull rod bases to each axle housing? I tried using the ones that came with my MN99 and they broke so I had to dismantle the rear axle housing and pry them out - luckily the broken screws unscrewed. The part I'm referring to are called "pull rod base seat mounts" on eBay. Mine didn't even come with screws from Banggood when I purchased them. I'm quite ticked off as I was finally hoping to upgrade my MN99 to ful metal underneath. I may try and use some spare WPL screws to see if they fit. Otherwise, I don't suppose you have 8 screws I could have? Thanks. Great video btw and I hope you are keeping safe at this difficult time.
I'll pull the MN out and have a check , I'd assume I have some in stock - where are you located?
Thanks, just keeping the chin up and trying to to keep little man occupied etc, Hope you and your family are all coping.
Ok, I have enough to do you a set, they are identical in thread and length but socket head instead of cap head (will be fine) so now just a matter of logistics etc. Where are you?
@@MrE. Hello, thanks for your reply and looking for them. I'm based in South Gloucestershire. I've run into some problems with my MN99 metal upgrades. The full metal axles and housings are the silver MN90 type. I can't use the suspension tie rods (threaded poles with screw on black nylon and brass balls type) with the metal bracket that sits atop each axle housing as the long screws aren't compatible for securing the stock plastic shock absorbers in place. This meant simply using the stock plastic pull rod base seat mounts atop the metal axle housings instead of the metal parts I had bought, along with the stock plastic pull rods. I found I could use WPL no.1pwa type short cross head screws to attach both stock and metal pull rod base seat mounts to the metal axle housings. However, the pinion gears keep slipping on the rear. I tried adjusting the metal drive shafts but to no avail. I'm really narked as all the metal parts cost a fair whack altogether and now I find they are really badly made. I would have simply swopped everything back to stock plastic (with metal gears as this is an MN99) but I had to break the male part to one of the plastic driveshafts to remove it from the gearbox/motor unit when I was upgrading it all. Basically, with the metal axles/housings on it, in reverse, the rear wheels do not turn when powered on. Without the driveshafts connected, all the gears work fine. Very smooth. It's just when it's all connected up the rear wheels won't turn in reverse when using the remote.
So, a few more questions, 1) to use to metal pull rods and metal pull rod seat mounts, you need upgraded shock absorbers, you can't combine the metal parts with the plastic shock absorbers can you? What shocks do you recommend?
2) Why are the rear gears not meshing? I couldn't even properly fit the ball bearings into the red cover parts the pinion sits in on each axle housing (which connects to the driveshaft) even after shaving the red paint off.
How do I message you my details? Address etc? I think what I really need is the male part of a plastic MN90/99 drive shaft and simply downgrade my MN99 back to all stock plastic with metal gears. I'm really disappointed that these metal parts have been incompatible or faulty. The pinions feel loose in the axles too. Lmk how to message you my details so perhaps we could either chat on the phone about all this or if you can help me with a plastic male drive shaft and whatever else I need to fix these faults in my MN99.
Btw, I'm ok thanks. Am self isolating since February due to having had Pulmonary Sarcoidois years ago which left me vulnerable to viral infections and because I have Hypothyroidism.
@@MrE. Hello. Update: the MN metal upgrade parts I bought are crap. They must be knock offs. The long rear axle slips sideways, doesn't fit correctly no matter what I adjusted. It doesn't mesh with the rear pinion gear. The rear pinion gear was being eaten by the rear diff when it did make contact. In reverse it was jolting and shuddering. The MN metal driveshafts were sloppy. No matter what I adjusted. The front steering rod was too short so I used another adjustable one but it won't quite sit properly. I've replaced the stock plastic/metal rear axle back on but the male plastic rear drive shaft is a bugger to get back on the motor shaft. I would change the front axle/housing/steering rods back to stock plastic parts but the front male drive shaft part broke. Those metal pull tie rods and bases are useless without upgraded shocks so I'll be going back to plastic again as well. The rear axle eye is all stock again. I'm really sad about this as I spent over £56 on MN upgrade parts on Banggood and a further £11 on new metal axle housings on eBay! All utterly useless now. There is something you could kindly help me with and that's two plastic male drive shaft parts to fit back onto the 260 motor I have so I can reconnect the stock plastic front axles with plastic housings and steering rods. How can I send you my details on here? It's either you kindly helping me or buying another 260 motor on eBay which has the male plastic drive shaft parts already attached. If you have a 260 motor with those parts attached (including motor wire and communicator already soldered on it) so much the better. What a waste! I've never had these sorts of issues with my WPL stuff except a front gear and pinion not meshing since upgrading a B24 (everything works fine when not connected to the driveshaft). Haven't a clue what's wrong as I've dismantled her a few times. Thoughts? Anyhow, hope you are well and hear from you soon. Thanks again. 👍
@@TheMasterNo6 Very odd that nothing fits or works, as mentioned previous ,I went through the axles to get them right.
I think the only MN stock casing I have is also too far gone to use so I'd get onto eBay and order one.
Do you still need the bolts that affix the 4link mounting to the axle housing?
Nice lovely I can't wait to upgrade mine mines is almost Done thanks for this video and product link brother
You're very welcome ,David! I hope you have as much fun with yours as I do with mine.
Very good upgrade,do you have a listing of the pièces you change and the Price and finally where is the best store i can buy all of the piece tank to you
Thank you! I have quite a comprehensive playlist of all the the iterations and parts etc , every video has parts listed and linked for the most part (linked in the top right - click the ( i ).
As for price, this was probably enough to just buy a decent traxxas in the first place with all the time put into the 3d chassis parts etc.
MN series has a much more broad availability of hopup parts now , back when this was done ,it was new and had to be done with WPL gear.
hi. the Metal Traction 4-Link you are indicating here is not compatible with mn-99; i have the same titanium axles and ordered the Metal Traction 4-Link from banggood but there is a diference in size. any ideas?
I had to space the upper/center of the 4 link as mentioned at around 6:00 in the vid - the MN99 looks quite similar but I don't have one on hand to check sadly.
Wondering if BG has change what they are sending out.
@@MrE. Hi. thanks for the reply; in my case the problem is that the screws holes in the axes did not match those on the traction link due to size; the ones I got shipped from banggood are 57mm wide and for the mn-99 what is needed are the ones with 63mm wide as only now I've found out on ebay as banggood doesnt have them on stock. thanks again
Im basically at the same stage as you apart from having a winch on mine what battery are you using for your car please any link for one other than the standard one
I am using 2S lipos ,started with any old 450/550 I had and use 850mah 2s now - all of them would out last my concentration and be plenty for a good crawl or trail run from memory.
This is the closest to what I use bit.ly/3wbYZrV (I removed the balnace grip thing).
I had a quick check and the hood space should be plenty for that 850mah, even a bit extra to add a bit of padding.
Hope this helps!
Hi! Please give me a link to the metal axles. Are they for Wpl or mn? The wpl is slightly shorter.
I used the WPL ones linked in the description, they are very little bit smaller than the MN stock ones but seem to work fine.
So the shocks you have fit from the get go? Great video! Waiting on the MN-99 and want to upgrade the shocks first but couldn't find the proper ones!
Cheers
They will fit the stock MN 90/99 with cutting the little round tabs the original suspension slipos onto if you arn't using my custom 3d printed stuff.
Have fun ,Friend!
@@MrE. thank you good sir!! What a great video!
add a flat washer between 2 speed and framerails.
I'm doubting of buying the MN-99, for crawling and fpv. Would that be a good car for it?
And what are the upgrades that you recommend the most?
Love your video BTW, you explain everything nice and easy
Thank you! I would most certainly recommend aftermarket radio gear & electronics to start with. secondly would be a strong motor & drive line.
A good cheap mod for crawling is adding any weight as low as possible. This is a hard thing to answer as every little upgrade helps but I hope I have given you a little to think about.
Happy crawling, friend!
That's looks way much better just got my self one an looking to make it more capable 😊👍✌
Thanks! The journeys the fun part for me & you'll have plenty of scope to personalize yours, friend!
Theres a bracket made for MN to Lift the 2speed gearbox
I had a look for it but couldn't find it, Thingiverse?
Nice Video RC👍😍
Thanks!
@MrE the kit is a 1/12 but all your replacement part links are 1/16, is that okay? I want to go ahead and do the same mods as you have shown. Please advice. Thanks
The WPL & MN scales are all over the place and not accurate, the MN90 has a fraction of a mm wider frame rails but are pretty much exactly the like the WPL C14, everything else pretty much the same besides the body and wheel size plus a couple of little mounting discrepancies.
Have fun, friend!
@@MrE. Thank you so much for the info !
@@MrE. what are the coil springs you used along with the shocks?
@@charitho1 They are the standard aftermarket ones in the description currently (The springs are inside) but if you are after the custom softer ones I think were mentioned, they are "0.5*7*20mm Stainless" found on any of the usual online stores etc.
I ordered this from amazon today seen this video, and just bought all the upgrades too, what was shipping like where they pretty quick?
I ordered something from BG on the 26th of dec & it arrived on the 3rd of Jan so pretty good considering New years etc.
Good luck & have fun!
@@MrE. OK thanks and I'm sure I will I'm not new too this its just been a while, good project for me video is great
@@jamiepriest8868 Indeed it is a good project to get you tinkering & you're welcome! Thanks for the kind comment.
@@MrE. I've accidently pulled of the wiring too the on off switch would you happen to know which way around the wiring is to wire it back up
@@jamiepriest8868 Is it the same ESC as I have?
None the less I would think the switch doesn't have a polarity but can check for you once clarified.
Do u have problems with steering ackermann?
Mine reach negative ackermann after about 20 30 degree of steering... sigh
My ackerman seems neutral except when the steering gets to it's physical limit and then theres only about a mm of play it seems.
I'd guess that the front facing arms on the steering hubs are not ideal but without going crazy modified , I doubt you could flip them around to a more conventional positive ackerman geometry.
I'll have a think on it & see if I can come up with a solution.
@@MrE. i'll wait for your solutions..
Awesome, where did you get the Skid Plate in the front? Thanks
It comes as part of the metal bumper kit , linked in the description.
Are you using the same stock battery?
I use a 2S Lipo (450-800mAh from memory) that last ages.
Hey awsome vid. Would I be able to the diffs to the original setup. Because I dont have 3D printed ones.
Yes, the 3d printed parts only facilitate the aftermarket shocks and even without, you could mount them by cutting the standard plastic trays if needed.
@@MrE. and could I fit the original Shocks to this setup? And I'm planning on running these diff on the 370 motor with the metal gear box is that ok? And have you faced any problems with these diffs after running?
The original shocks should fit like stock so no problem there, running a 370 on metal gears is also no problem as I am running it on that setup even through an upgraded to metal 2speed box.
Other then the problems I documented in the "Fixing Dodgy Titanium Axles" video they have been perfect, my only gripe would be regards the steering angle is a little less than optimal but it's a small tradeoff for such a beefy setup.
@@MrE. have the metal pinions ever slipped when your wheels are stuck. Because of the torque of the motor?
@@imethpieris4930 No, but I am very proactive in circumventing stuff like that using threadlock and even 2 grubscrews where permits (I think the driveshafts took 2 setscrews as they were smaller ones and included extra).
To extrapolate a bit further I also let the threadlock cure for a good time before stressing it as that can cause probs aswell ( Ask me how I know with a 450 Heli :) )
How easy is it to fit those metal axles as it says there for the wpl?
Everything I fitted was WPL, the MN90 is almost a clone across the board of the original C series WPL chassis spec (only difference is conveyed in my 3d printed parts vid - a mm or 2 to the track and a couple of holes).
Just the metal axles would fit without any modding to the stock 4 link part that connects to it iirc.
@@MrE. cheers for that pal I'll be ordering those
Hey how did you get the steering bar connected to the servo? I now have the metal diff all fitted apart from the steering
@@kevjames5656 I used a longer bolt to raise the attachment point, See my video Gaz 66 Lift - Redeux [ WPL Metal Leaf Springs Revisted ] for an indepth on the same problem iirc.
@@MrE. thanks again I'll have to get some fixings and now a servo as the original one has started clicking
What transmitter and receiver did you use?
I use a Flysky FS-GT3C: bit.ly/2mn3mSj
Nice , cheap & all the normal features.
Quick look here: ua-cam.com/video/0df7uoScirs/v-deo.html
Where can I get the metal drive shaft for the MN-d90
Driveshafts: bit.ly/2WgvHGl All other things linked in the description also.
all these upgrades are waterproof?
and what kind of battery did you use?
Stock - nothing is waterproof as such but some marine type grease in the moving parts and conformal coating/hot glue or epoxy on the electronics will make it so.
As for the battery I use a 2S lipo, a 550 or an 850mAh will give me pretty much endless running with a couple.
I've bought those titanium axles. I'm going to be using them on my tan WPL B1/ B14 now? Anyhow, on Banggood they say these titanium axles aren't compatible with the MN90 or 99...did you modify yours? I expect you haven't.
Can you provide links to the parts on Banggood you have used for your upgrade? I want to buy MN style silver axle housings for one thing...also, are WPL metal upgrade parts compatible? Could I use a WPL full OP upgrade kit including their metal driveshafts for parts on an MN99?
I didn't modify them , BG doesn't have knowledgable staff like that hence why we try to pass the real info on, No idea why they've changed it to a B1, prehaps some internals are slightly different.
You can't use a metal OP kit on the MN's housings ,there is a mm or 2 difference but the whole axles from WPL fit,also the metal driveshafts etc as seen in this vid.
Heres lists for both types of chassis for mounting the titaniums in full upgrade mentality:
For these Titanium Axles: bit.ly/2VsyfRO
Fit to a leaf sprung C section frame rail:
Leaf Springs: bit.ly/2WU0vhC
Metal Stiffening Leafs: bit.ly/2GAHjQn
Axel Mounts: bit.ly/2TDxhSc
For a 4 Link frame:
Metal Traction 4-Link: bit.ly/2Wf30ty
Metal Ball links: bit.ly/2Wf42Ws
Metal Suspension: bit.ly/2wC0mUe
Metal driveshafts for both recommended bit.ly/2TEEx07
@@MrE. My Titanium axles were lost by Hermes along with the metal servo I had ordered. Really disappointed by that. I've opened a PayPal dispute. Hermes seem to have lost my items once they got them on March 7th. Can't even speak to anyone at Hermes.
So WPL metal axles fit inside MN axle housings you mean?
@@TheMasterNo6 The WPL axles are a little bit short for transplanting into MN idealy, They might work but personaly I wouldn't as you might loose to much material for the shaft ends to seat on.
Hermes is really good for me but with whats going on, lots of new people etc I'm not that suprised - prehaps I'm an exception as we have alot of contact and traffic through Hermes both ways, with the couple of main local staff being friends, one of which I grew up & went to school with (cough decades ago).
I am getting to your larger message so dont fret!
@@MrE. Yes I saw your other reply and replied to it. Thanks. My local Hermes Depo is rubbish. I can't even speak to anyone either online or on the phone about my missing parcel. The titanium axle housings and metal servo arrived in the UK on March 7th to their main hub in Avonmouth and that's where they've languished, or were lost or as I reckon some thieving git stole them. I can't even chase Hermes up on it. Their webchat and phone line are useless. Tried contacting them via my Girlfriends Twitter and they never bothered to respond. Maybe I could give you the tracking and you could ask your contacts at Hermes to look into it for me as well as hopefully helping me with a replacement MN99 260 motor with the male drive shaft parts attached and motor wire with white plug and communicator soldered on to it as well as those screws? Thanks again.
@@TheMasterNo6 I wouldn't have any means to get in contact with Hermes that you don't have access to, All I have at the moment is contactless secure drops - I'd assume they will have a backlog or something. Every delivery firm is getting hammered ,probably 5x more stuff to deliver with half the staff ( my neighbour postman had lots of different rounds to do today which was 3 days worth on each ,its crappy for him with 1 round at the best of times before this hit the fan).
I have just received a larger consignement that was ordered 2 months ago for shipment on a 48hr international courier. Not to mention I am still waiting for a DJI HD shipment which isn't not exactly cheap from the same order, same story..
As for the motor / housing / driveshaft set, there is only one vendor which is carrying the 260 motor version which has all you need. A steal at £3.65: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000198941202.html
Regards the bolts: You need 8x M2.5 x 12mm thread (the ones with the kit are 10mm thread iirc but they are a bit short) - I can't even post you a letter for the price they are selling them at, at the moment.
Get them from this vendor on eBay :www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M2-M2-5-M3-A2-Stainless-Steel-Allen-Bolts-Socket-Cap-Screws-Hex-Head-DIN-912/313052576224?hash=item48e36339e0:m:mwnILIKdDi6SHhQVzzBk-iA
Lastly, only leave one comment please, it gets a bit complicated with you asking pretty much the same thing in 2 rather huge seperate comments.
I ordered all these parts . I hope they all work
They certainly work but enough time has gone by that I think they now do most of these parts labeled for MN, including much of my 3d parts collection in metal.
@@MrE. the titanium axles say 1/16 scale. In your link
Some people say they work lol some people say they are not right ones but I think they are lying.
@@ZIVGamingOfficial Well, this driving around in the vid's and the amount of hours I have invested in having fun with my son and the rather big playlist should speak for it's self. at the end of the day this is a heavily modified toy which probably cost more in the end than getting a Traxxas or Axial would have cost. Just the collection of 3d printed parts was hundreds of hours in the making.
@@ZIVGamingOfficial As I've said countless times, the scale of WPL,MN,JJRC & Fayee are nothing to take notice of.
How did you connect the gaurd on the underneath of the front bumper engine gaurd ????
NICE D90 BY THE WAY M8
Thanks! It connects with a couple of small bolts to threaded hols on the metal bumper.
Thanx m8 I just ordered the metal bumper with winch
@@neildavies7654 Cool beans, a winch will be an awesome addition! (jazz hands to look for one haha)
Looking at lots of "trail" or "expedition ready" Defender 90s shows that most of the metal MN90 cosmetic upgrades are based on the real thing. There's full size D90s with that same style of under-bumper skid plate.
No oil in shocks?
They are not oil filled shocks but I have seen people fill them iirc. I did lubricate them a little though.
what engine do you have here? 370? and what ESC do you have?
This was the stock small one at the time, but was upgraded to the 2 speed box with a 370, the ESC is a 20a brushed (most likely linked in the original video of the series).
Where do you buy this stuff
All linked in the desc, BG & Ali for the most part though.
This is a great video 👍👍☺️
Thanks!
Your chasis parts posted anywhere? 3d printed?
Yes, on Thingiverse
New Sub great vid.. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Nice full metall
damn 2 speed gearbox won’t fit without putting chassis links onto outside of chassis!!!
Thats how I ended up doing it on this iirc, I think there are some smaller/thinker 4-links I saw a year or 2 ago that may have fitted but I've not even had this thing out in that long.
I have the same one and I want to do those upgrades my question is if I can run the same remote control and it's too old to the app Grace with the new motor and transfer case
You should be able to!
MrE link on axles?
Hello , i've bough the same esc but i don't Know how to plug it!🤔 Can you explain me? Sorry for my english, i'm french 😁
The esc is for aftermarket receivers so the 3 coloured cable will plug into the receiver throttle channel, the red plug with the pins in is for the battery connection and the other red cable with holes for pins goes to the motor.
@@MrE. thanks .
Can u drop a link on where u got both axles I’m having trouble finding
These are the exact Titanium Axles I used: bit.ly/2VsyfRO
Everything is slowing down due to COV19 hence the long processing times, sadly.
MrE what do u mean
@@nathencosgrove877 The Corona virus has effected the supply chain hence the long times for shipping. Everything I have on order is 20-30 days until shipping where as usually it would be 24hrs, I think the Chinese new year also played a part.
The axles say 1/16, isnt this truck a 1/12?
@@rudds4736 It is supposedly 1/12 however neither the 1/16 or the 1/12 scale is right on any of the parallel WPL, MN, JJRC stuff - it's all over the place. These axles track is a mm or 2 off but fine as used.
What is the length of the titanium front and rear axle? Its said in the site that those axle is for 1/16 scale..
it's am mm or 2 less width than the MN90's stock but fits fine. All of the WPL, JJRC, Fayee & MN scales are just plucked out of the sky for the most part.
@@MrE. coz that is good looking axle. What about the axle quality? Do you satisfied with the build quality?
I have another axle for MN D90 in my list now.. i just want to get as much information before buying the right choice..
@@MrE. i need your suggestion for Traction Refit link above the axle, the one that link the axle to the frame. Is it all WPL, MN screw placement the same? I heard WPL and MN have different length..
@@zahirmd_ I have a 19 video (and growing) playlist of content i have produced since the WPLs stuff hit the market, linked in the top right of the video ( i ), it covers alot of what you ask & there's a whole video on getting these axles up to a reasonable standard.
@@zahirmd_ No ,all of that is exactly the same other than the slight difference in axle track width and some very minor difference in the chassis plates, again - check my playlist as I have loads of stuff covering everything, even custom 3d printed parts to go that bit further.
What servo
Any 9G Servo should suffice (I used a Tower Pro MG90 from memory)
nice car bro 👍👍👍
Cheers, mate!
How did you mount the front skid plate?
The skid plate came with and mounts to the metal bumper upgrade
@@MrE. oh I see.. thanks! I might have to get a steel bumper as well to get mine mounted properly.
Really liked the upgrades you did on your rig!
Have fun, thanks!
What servo and servo mount
MG90 on my 3d printed parts (although you could do servo on axle)
How to add engine sound in it
One of these would prob be the best: bit.ly/32iHkQw
@@MrE. how to set this on d90 rc car,
WHERE YOU BAY ALL THE METAL PARST ??????????????
MN-90 Kit link: bit.ly/2Fo6tlp bit.ly/2Qlbqws
2 speed Box: bit.ly/2XxHB04
Metal Suspension: bit.ly/2wC0mUe
Titanium Axles: bit.ly/2VsyfRO
Driveshafts: bit.ly/2WgvHGl
Metal Traction 4-Link: bit.ly/2Wf30ty
Metal Bumper: bit.ly/2K4zS6C
Metal Ball links: bit.ly/2Wf42Ws
Links are always in the description.
Do I need a 3d printed mount for servo? Or anything?
The mounting blocks are included in the 3D parts collection
@@MrE. do you know exact parts I need for mounting blocks as there are ALOT of parts in the file.
@@ZIVGamingOfficial the blocks ar e MN90_Servo_Tray-TAB.stl in the files section.
Is that all I will need? The parts you posted and mounting blocks?
Thanks for replying.
Nice brother
Cheers ,matey!
@@MrE. 👍🤙
Have you got a link for the steering mod you did?
Its made from some threaded rod and a couple of nuts - its covered in more detail in this video iirc: ua-cam.com/video/_NSH3LhOP1U/v-deo.html (my wpl gaz 66 with much the same problem)
Nice sir
Many thanks!
Suspension is too stiff, also some weight for the wheels would be good
Could use some nice heavy metal rims of some sort cetainly, the springs are swapped to softer 0.5*7*20mm Stainless at the moment & could probably even go down to 0.4x7's or other ones with less material for fine tuning.
Cool
Thank you
Links dont work
James John did for me
front and rear axles are to small.
Огонь !
jadi tambah enak jalanya
Thanks!
❤
Mantappp 👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
Or you need to put some weight
Its far too heavy with the rigid body.
Nothing ultimate about that gearbox.
Quite odd that almost 3 years after this was done when there was *NO* MN parts what so ever, going through every other offering the 2 speed used was by far the best - this is still in great working order. But hey, I've just become you're second subscriber and perhaps you could share your wisdom with us..
Hola excelente trabajo yo tengo d90 apenas estoy en pesando que referencia puedo conseguir los accesorios o un enlace gracias
Gracias, espero que te diviertas y te vaya bien con lo que está sucediendo en todo el mundo. Cuídate.