Still have my C5 Z06 in 2023. Here are some of my 'flaws', most of which I 'fixed' with some changes. 1. 'Sticky' clutch. Clutch sticks when fluid gets dirty. Added remote bleeder to allow easier fluid change. Also used MOTUL 600 brake fluid in clutch reservoir. 2. Brakes: Not up to task on track. Changed floating caliper brake system to Porsche/Brembo fixed caliper system both front and rear.. 3. Oil overheating. System goes into 'limp' mode (shuts down cylinders) at 300 deg. F. Added oil cooler and oversized radiator. 4. 'Twitchy' rear end at limit at corner exit. Dumped leaf springs for adjustable coil overs. 5. Brake & gas pedals too far apart for easy heel/toe downshifting. Added plate to gas pedal to make downshifting easier. 6. Changed power steering idler sprocket. Belt was jumping 1 track under heavy brake/throttle transitions on track. 7. Altered front brake ducts to direct air onto rotors to help cool them. 8. Altered rear brake ducts to direct air to into transmission/diff cooler radiator.
I worked at a used corvette dealership for 10 years and we called these issues "hereditary problems" . Every era corvette has them from the 50's to probably even current but its the love for the car that makes it worth it.
Here's one I'm surprised you left out, because besides myself I know several owners of C5's that have had it. The ECBM that controls your traction control causing the light to come on in the dash and won't clear. It happened to my'03 C5 Zo6. I had to remove the unit, a real pain if you don't have a lift and separating the cover from the unit once out is a beating too. But the fix once it's out and disassembled took less than 5 minutes to do, Just re-solder or add new solder to about five solder spots on the PC board. There are vids on here to show you how to do the complete job. That's how I did it and it worked and still does.
Fuel level sensors - if you've ever taken one apart are just these two very flimsy curved paper thin pieces of metal sliding over a surface of other open metal pieces. Junk. But be careful if you order a replacement! Newer units use the same style part upon visual inspection, but the voltage reading is reversed, so that side will read full when empty or empty when full.
So I'm still on the fence of which one to get C5 ,for the most part then the C3 1980 because it's simple but no power ,But the 1979 love this as well so next year I will be able to really get into witch one and love the info you give thanks Wil Harris
I can tell you from experience as a 2 time C5 owner and ASE Master tech that the clutch sticking to the floor problem is NOT the fluid, the master, the slave, or heat (I live in Phoenix) …….it’s all about how much hp the pressure plate can handle. Stock hp is barely ok for the stock clutch but if you make 50 or more hp over stock it will not like high power high rpm shifts. The “Rangermod bs” is garbage, the real issue is the pressure plate. Get a Spec 3+ or other aftermarket clutch and pp and all other stock items and your issue will go away.
I don't own a C5 but I knew about most of these. Common issues are good to know. And all cars have em btw. There's no car without engineering quirks. Anybody have grounding issues with a C5?
03.5+ still has the sending unit on the driver side, but now it is up top. PITA. This is the C6 fuel system and has the corrugated metal crossover tube with the two impossible to reattach internal crossover lines from the driver pump to the passenger venturi, and back to the driver fsu. Nearly impossible to service easily without dropping the drivetrain. I dispatched the internal lines, made external bulkhead fittings, and added about 2 feet of line stashed above the transmission. Now if I need to I can drop the driver tank to service in the future with relative ease and not have to remove the drivetrain to do so. Reattaching the crossover is child's play.
Oil senders don't fail too often. But in three C5s and 130k miles driven I had one car need it twice. I installed a remote on it the first time so the second time took just 2 minutes. A little pricy at about $80 to source all the fittings and adapters needed, but far preferred to cutting the firewall near the cowl. I already pre installed one on the Z06 I'm building.
On theme of your video re GM known issues. There was a problem in early year C5s where the pin which locks your seatback to varying upright angles would fail and drivers would drop back to the gas tank wall while driving. Very unsafe! My friend worked at the metal shop which was making these pins in Durham, CT at Hobson & Motzer. They had told GM that it needed to be a three process part to be strong enough but GM had them make it as a two process part to save a few beans. I don't recall the specifics of the design this long removed. But sure as heck they changed the design and the problem seemed to go away. But as you said... Factory seats are useless, even Sports. When you have a good enough suspension you end up having to "air the jewels" by locking your knees to the door or tt tunnel so you don't slide all over. I went Corbeau A4 and love them. Future consideration would be C8 GT2 or GT3. Finishing the project first though!
Other flaws, not addressed by GM: The seat foam is directly on the seat springs, it is also just sandwiched over the seat frame, so over time, the springs cut through the foam, and the seat frame edge also cuts through the door-side bolster foam, and into/through the leather. *Fix: put a layer of felt between the springs/seat frame and foam. Adhere the foam with spray adhesive. Clear targa top clear coat delaminates, and peels away. It typically starts to happen over the driver side head bulge, and spreads from there. *fix: lots of sanding, and reclear the whole top, or have it replaced (about $400). Faulty hazard light switch. The switch burns up internally, causing your DRLs and taillights, which are routed through this switch, to not function properly. *fix: replace the switch EGR valve sticks open, causing the CEL to come on, throw a trouble code, and compromised engine power. *fix: spray penetrating oil into the EGR valve.
Almost 10k subs, thats awesome! Very interesting that GM didn't do much about these issues. Maybe it was cheaper to pay for the warranty repairs than to have an updated part?
The title of this video is a bit misleading. I’ll explain… The C5 ran from ‘97 to ‘04… The seat bushings breaking down and causing the seat rock happens over time. They weren’t failing when GM was producing the C5. They failed years after the production run. The Oil pressure sensors GM used were originally manufactured by AC Delco in brass out of the US. AC Delco then moved production to Mexico and switched to aluminum. The newer aluminum sensors are not the same quality as the original brass. O’Reilly’s carry a brass sensor that is much better quality than the AC Delco aluminum ones. Not GM neglect. The fuel sending unit sulfur issue is due to sub par fuel being used. This is of no fault or neglect of GM either. Use better grade higher octane fuel and you’ll minimize the issue. Run some sea-foam or Techron every other fill-up if you are using cheap gas. Best to run top tier fuel and do the additive treatment to mitigate the issue. As for the leaky butt…it depends on the cause and where it’s leaking from. If it’s a driver side (typical location) output shaft seal which is a known issue that GM struggled with (even when the cars are being driven lightly). If it’s a “leak” you find after WOT pulls it’s likely normal due to the differential having an “exhaust outlet” in which diff fluid will leak out in order to relieve case pressure. Just a bit of info to chew on. 👍
pleasure to see a reasonable discussion. there are so many internet uninformed options about flawed designs on the old car, and absolutely necessary ignorant fixes posted to cure them, I appreciate the change from an almost old lady gossip level of mechanical insight. I was momentarily thrown when you mentioned wheel nuts tightened to 180 pounds, but from the context it was easy to figure you meant what I call lug nuts, which hold the wheel and are correctly tightened to 140 pounds on the base model.
Actually, he is referring to the 33mm rear axle nut connecting the rear axle (CV Shaft) to the hub. Its factory torque is 118 ft lbs. Lug nuts torque to 100 ft lbs.
Love the channel and you have me on the fence about seat replacements. I have a late 2003 and I think I can add two more issues and make it an even 10 problems! First, automatic cars- the shift cable connectors....I replaced both within two weeks. I replaced both with metal replacements instead of factory plastic junk. And secondly, I can't believe you didn't mention this one...dreaded headlight droop. The nylon/plastic gears strip out causing the pop-up headlights to hot function. I replaced the gears with brass/bronze replacements. I should never have to fix either of these issues again! Keep up the great content.
Remote Bleeders: best to use the Katech version as it has the factory correct fitting and will not leak. The other brands such as Tick use a compression fitting and those can develop a leak. I have owned both and am speaking from direct experience, though neither of mine leaked. To make the install super clean, grab an Edelbrock 641370 adapter for the bleeder end and install ti the brake master cyl bolt or wherever you prefer.
There's a "free bolster mod" for the C5/C5Z seats that does hold you in much better in the upper body. But yeah the lower body still needs more bolstering to hold you in.
Damion should get back to you i did buy sleepy eyes its been almost 1 and 1/2 years since I purchased I'm still on the hook being really nice to the owners of corvette innovationz theres alot of people that say they are scamers everybody that orders never gets there products have you heard about that from corvette innovationz do you know anyone that has ordered from corvette innovationz my fuel tank goes to empty when its 1/2 full ive tried fuel additive from chevron also but only mine still continues how many times would you suggest techron bottle every time I fill my tank or should I try every other fill up ?
Well I owned a 2001 hard top in 2011-2013 and only problems were one headlight motor and the 45k mile car I changed the plugs fuel filter etc because when I would drive it up steep hills it would cut out and the fix was I changed all the oxygen sensors !!!!
Slave cylinder. I had sticky pedal after rpm. Changed my slave cylinder and installed a remote bleeder. Now my clutch pedal never sticks. Also because I didn't change the master like everyone does......my clutch is still factory light feeling and not stiff as hell from the tick master.
Most people when they upgrade to the tick they go with the 7/8 bore that's recommended.. I didn't and ordered the 3/4" bore that same as factory. Feels ever so slightly more firm, but mostly unnoticeable. The tick they recommend is waaay to firm for daily driving around town.
The part of the seat that wears out is actually a U shaped piece of rubber that goes down then under then up the square metal block that moves back and forth on the treaded rod. The grease that they lubed the threaded rod with from the factory causes the rubber to disintegrate or melt over time causing the rocking seat saga. I’ve seen vinyl that’s better quality then their so called “High Nuance Leather” GM has always had shit quality material that they call leather. On day 2 of owning my 03 6 speed ( 3rd owner 50k mile car) my clutch pedal stuck on a spirted run. So I did some research and determined that the clutch master needed to be replaced. I couldn’t afford the Tick replacement so I got the $50.00 clutch master cylinder from O’riely filled it with DOT4 and did the bench bleed procedure on it then swapped it out in about 45 minutes. 26,000 miles later (and I drive the piss out of it) and it’s never stuck again. The factory CMC is made from a light weight composite material and the O’reily one is made from steel. In my opinion the factory CMC just wears out to fast causing it to leak internally. Now I do, replace the reservoir fluid about every 6 weeks or when I see it’s really black and dirty. only takes about 3 minutes to do it. I haven’t had the fuel sender issue yet, but I only use Chevron 93 Oct fuel. I did replace the vibration dampener for piece of mind b/c the belt would squeak on cold starts but only in cold weather. And my rear end does have some fluid seepage. It just gets dirty looking but no noticeable drips of any kind. And I’m not sure if the oil pressure sensor has ever been replaced but so far it reads correctly and doesn’t leak yet.
Bingo on the clutch Master. After I upgraded mine to the mcleod/wilwood master I cut my stock one open and there was highly visible scoring in its bore causing loss of pressure. Like bad piston rings, it'll hold some pressure, but start blowing by in hard driving. My c5 race car has had the McLeod master for 5 years no sticky pedal. Corvette owners should look into this unit because it is direct fit with no drilling, and slightly smaller bore than tick so no worry about over extension.
Every time I torque down my lugs it feels like they’re going to just break/twist off. They feel absurdly soft, like I just keep tightening and it’s not getting tighter. Just a unsettling feeling. Upgrading the studs this winter. The rear axle nuts will be replaced also. The clicking is really annoying. I’ve replied loctite three times and went thru the whole process. This time they just won’t stay tight. Time to Replace the nuts.
Yo tengo la solución al problema del pié hundido, he conseguido eliminar el problema sin cambiar ni una sola pieza nueva. Todo el mundo cambia piezas nuevas sin entretenerse a ver que es lo que realmente está fallando. Toda la culpa la tiene el autoajuste.
Just blow off the intake sealing surfaces with compressed air, where they meet the intake ports. Then yank the intake. 10 6mm bolts. Easiest to remove intake in history. Hint-If you DO NOT torque the new sender to the recommended value, the replacement sender WILL FAIL sooner than it should!!!
Would you recommend me installing a clutch remote bleeder (assuming i can) or just use the ranger method? Car only has 20k miles and clutch fluid looks good (i think he did ranger method recently). Just curious if I can even get the remote bleeder installed by dropping the H-pipe?
I hate to say it, but a car that old with very low mileage may end up needing more things fixed due to sitting for so long. Especially if you drive it hard. The car isn't properly broken in yet, so go easy on it at first. A friend of mine and myself both bought C5 Corvettes and BOTH of us broke the harmonic balancer within a month of ownership. But these cars are still more solid than most, so maybe you won't have any issues for a while!
@@Viper3048 How is a car with 20k miles not properly broke in yet? I agree a car that sits a lot could have issues, but this one seems really good to go. No balancer wobble (although i already have plans to get it fixed with an upper oil pan gasket in the near future).
Still have my C5 Z06 in 2023. Here are some of my 'flaws', most of which I 'fixed' with some changes.
1. 'Sticky' clutch. Clutch sticks when fluid gets dirty. Added remote bleeder to allow easier fluid change. Also used MOTUL 600 brake fluid in clutch reservoir.
2. Brakes: Not up to task on track. Changed floating caliper brake system to Porsche/Brembo fixed caliper system both front and rear..
3. Oil overheating. System goes into 'limp' mode (shuts down cylinders) at 300 deg. F. Added oil cooler and oversized radiator.
4. 'Twitchy' rear end at limit at corner exit. Dumped leaf springs for adjustable coil overs.
5. Brake & gas pedals too far apart for easy heel/toe downshifting. Added plate to gas pedal to make downshifting easier.
6. Changed power steering idler sprocket. Belt was jumping 1 track under heavy brake/throttle transitions on track.
7. Altered front brake ducts to direct air onto rotors to help cool them.
8. Altered rear brake ducts to direct air to into transmission/diff cooler radiator.
You are obviously very mechanical! I had several of these problems with my C5. Great list!
I worked at a used corvette dealership for 10 years and we called these issues "hereditary problems" . Every era corvette has them from the 50's to probably even current but its the love for the car that makes it worth it.
Agreed! All cars have issues and if you know what you have. You work with the issues.
What kind of Corvette do you have?
Here's one I'm surprised you left out, because besides myself I know several owners of C5's that have had it. The ECBM that controls your traction control causing the light to come on in the dash and won't clear. It happened to my'03 C5 Zo6. I had to remove the unit, a real pain if you don't have a lift and separating the cover from the unit once out is a beating too. But the fix once it's out and disassembled took less than 5 minutes to do, Just re-solder or add new solder to about five solder spots on the PC board. There are vids on here to show you how to do the complete job. That's how I did it and it worked and still does.
Fuel level sensors - if you've ever taken one apart are just these two very flimsy curved paper thin pieces of metal sliding over a surface of other open metal pieces. Junk. But be careful if you order a replacement! Newer units use the same style part upon visual inspection, but the voltage reading is reversed, so that side will read full when empty or empty when full.
So I'm still on the fence of which one to get C5 ,for the most part then the C3 1980 because it's simple but no power ,But the 1979 love this as well so next year I will be able to really get into witch one and love the info you give thanks Wil Harris
I can tell you from experience as a 2 time C5 owner and ASE Master tech that the clutch sticking to the floor problem is NOT the fluid, the master, the slave, or heat (I live in Phoenix) …….it’s all about how much hp the pressure plate can handle. Stock hp is barely ok for the stock clutch but if you make 50 or more hp over stock it will not like high power high rpm shifts. The “Rangermod bs” is garbage, the real issue is the pressure plate. Get a Spec 3+ or other aftermarket clutch and pp and all other stock items and your issue will go away.
I am also a certified tech and this is very true. When I switched to a performance clutch in my highly modified, high hp C5 I never had this issue!
Thanks for the videos from a fellow 757
1:17 seats
2:27 sticking clutch pedal
5:03 fuel sending unit
6:34 oil pressure sending unit
7:47 wobbly harmonic balancer
8:58 rear axle nuts loosening
9:33 Convertible rear glass falling out
10:08 rear end leaking at diff/trans mating surface
Thnks 4 this
"Just get new seats"
😂😂😂 Gotta love this guy's 1st world problem solving 🤦💀💀
Congrats man! Thanks for all the C5 content! just got my C5 Z06 last week so its very helpful!
I don't own a C5 but I knew about most of these.
Common issues are good to know. And all cars have em btw. There's no car without engineering quirks.
Anybody have grounding issues with a C5?
My goodness I can’t believe the C5 platform is entering antique car status.
03.5+ still has the sending unit on the driver side, but now it is up top. PITA. This is the C6 fuel system and has the corrugated metal crossover tube with the two impossible to reattach internal crossover lines from the driver pump to the passenger venturi, and back to the driver fsu. Nearly impossible to service easily without dropping the drivetrain. I dispatched the internal lines, made external bulkhead fittings, and added about 2 feet of line stashed above the transmission. Now if I need to I can drop the driver tank to service in the future with relative ease and not have to remove the drivetrain to do so. Reattaching the crossover is child's play.
Oil senders don't fail too often. But in three C5s and 130k miles driven I had one car need it twice. I installed a remote on it the first time so the second time took just 2 minutes. A little pricy at about $80 to source all the fittings and adapters needed, but far preferred to cutting the firewall near the cowl. I already pre installed one on the Z06 I'm building.
On theme of your video re GM known issues. There was a problem in early year C5s where the pin which locks your seatback to varying upright angles would fail and drivers would drop back to the gas tank wall while driving. Very unsafe! My friend worked at the metal shop which was making these pins in Durham, CT at Hobson & Motzer. They had told GM that it needed to be a three process part to be strong enough but GM had them make it as a two process part to save a few beans. I don't recall the specifics of the design this long removed. But sure as heck they changed the design and the problem seemed to go away. But as you said... Factory seats are useless, even Sports. When you have a good enough suspension you end up having to "air the jewels" by locking your knees to the door or tt tunnel so you don't slide all over. I went Corbeau A4 and love them. Future consideration would be C8 GT2 or GT3. Finishing the project first though!
Other flaws, not addressed by GM:
The seat foam is directly on the seat springs, it is also just sandwiched over the seat frame, so over time, the springs cut through the foam, and the seat frame edge also cuts through the door-side bolster foam, and into/through the leather.
*Fix: put a layer of felt between the springs/seat frame and foam. Adhere the foam with spray adhesive.
Clear targa top clear coat delaminates, and peels away. It typically starts to happen over the driver side head bulge, and spreads from there.
*fix: lots of sanding, and reclear the whole top, or have it replaced (about $400).
Faulty hazard light switch. The switch burns up internally, causing your DRLs and taillights, which are routed through this switch, to not function properly.
*fix: replace the switch
EGR valve sticks open, causing the CEL to come on, throw a trouble code, and compromised engine power.
*fix: spray penetrating oil into the EGR valve.
Almost 10k subs, thats awesome! Very interesting that GM didn't do much about these issues. Maybe it was cheaper to pay for the warranty repairs than to have an updated part?
The title of this video is a bit misleading. I’ll explain…
The C5 ran from ‘97 to ‘04…
The seat bushings breaking down and causing the seat rock happens over time. They weren’t failing when GM was producing the C5. They failed years after the production run.
The Oil pressure sensors GM used were originally manufactured by AC Delco in brass out of the US. AC Delco then moved production to Mexico and switched to aluminum. The newer aluminum sensors are not the same quality as the original brass. O’Reilly’s carry a brass sensor that is much better quality than the AC Delco aluminum ones. Not GM neglect.
The fuel sending unit sulfur issue is due to sub par fuel being used. This is of no fault or neglect of GM either. Use better grade higher octane fuel and you’ll minimize the issue. Run some sea-foam or Techron every other fill-up if you are using cheap gas. Best to run top tier fuel and do the additive treatment to mitigate the issue.
As for the leaky butt…it depends on the cause and where it’s leaking from. If it’s a driver side (typical location) output shaft seal which is a known issue that GM struggled with (even when the cars are being driven lightly). If it’s a “leak” you find after WOT pulls it’s likely normal due to the differential having an “exhaust outlet” in which diff fluid will leak out in order to relieve case pressure.
Just a bit of info to chew on. 👍
Your fast becoming my favorite Corvette channel! Rock on
pleasure to see a reasonable discussion. there are so many internet uninformed options about flawed designs on the old car, and absolutely necessary ignorant fixes posted to cure them, I appreciate the change from an almost old lady gossip level of mechanical insight. I was momentarily thrown when you mentioned wheel nuts tightened to 180 pounds, but from the context it was easy to figure you meant what I call lug nuts, which hold the wheel and are correctly tightened to 140 pounds on the base model.
Actually, he is referring to the 33mm rear axle nut connecting the rear axle (CV Shaft) to the hub. Its factory torque is 118 ft lbs. Lug nuts torque to 100 ft lbs.
Only problem I’ve had 20yrs oil sensor
Elect ground cleaning water pump
Love the channel and you have me on the fence about seat replacements. I have a late 2003 and I think I can add two more issues and make it an even 10 problems! First, automatic cars- the shift cable connectors....I replaced both within two weeks. I replaced both with metal replacements instead of factory plastic junk. And secondly, I can't believe you didn't mention this one...dreaded headlight droop. The nylon/plastic gears strip out causing the pop-up headlights to hot function. I replaced the gears with brass/bronze replacements. I should never have to fix either of these issues again!
Keep up the great content.
I have a 98 and I think I have had every one of those problems.
Remote Bleeders: best to use the Katech version as it has the factory correct fitting and will not leak. The other brands such as Tick use a compression fitting and those can develop a leak. I have owned both and am speaking from direct experience, though neither of mine leaked. To make the install super clean, grab an Edelbrock 641370 adapter for the bleeder end and install ti the brake master cyl bolt or wherever you prefer.
Column lock issues
There's a "free bolster mod" for the C5/C5Z seats that does hold you in much better in the upper body. But yeah the lower body still needs more bolstering to hold you in.
Damion should get back to you i did buy sleepy eyes its been almost 1 and 1/2 years since I purchased I'm still on the hook being really nice to the owners of corvette innovationz theres alot of people that say they are scamers everybody that orders never gets there products have you heard about that from corvette innovationz do you know anyone that has ordered from corvette innovationz my fuel tank goes to empty when its 1/2 full ive tried fuel additive from chevron also but only mine still continues how many times would you suggest techron bottle every time I fill my tank or should I try every other fill up ?
Well I owned a 2001 hard top in 2011-2013 and only problems were one headlight motor and the 45k mile car I changed the plugs fuel filter etc because when I would drive it up steep hills it would cut out and the fix was I changed all the oxygen sensors !!!!
Slave cylinder. I had sticky pedal after rpm. Changed my slave cylinder and installed a remote bleeder. Now my clutch pedal never sticks. Also because I didn't change the master like everyone does......my clutch is still factory light feeling and not stiff as hell from the tick master.
Most people when they upgrade to the tick they go with the 7/8 bore that's recommended.. I didn't and ordered the 3/4" bore that same as factory. Feels ever so slightly more firm, but mostly unnoticeable. The tick they recommend is waaay to firm for daily driving around town.
Hand break stops working , they knew about it, said just do the adjustment often(no feasible ) then fixed for c6(probably because more sticks too 🤔
The part of the seat that wears out is actually a U shaped piece of rubber that goes down then under then up the square metal block that moves back and forth on the treaded rod. The grease that they lubed the threaded rod with from the factory causes the rubber to disintegrate or melt over time causing the rocking seat saga.
I’ve seen vinyl that’s better quality then their so called “High Nuance Leather” GM has always had shit quality material that they call leather.
On day 2 of owning my 03 6 speed ( 3rd owner 50k mile car) my clutch pedal stuck on a spirted run. So I did some research and determined that the clutch master needed to be replaced. I couldn’t afford the Tick replacement so I got the $50.00 clutch master cylinder from O’riely filled it with DOT4 and did the bench bleed procedure on it then swapped it out in about 45 minutes. 26,000 miles later (and I drive the piss out of it) and it’s never stuck again. The factory CMC is made from a light weight composite material and the O’reily one is made from steel. In my opinion the factory CMC just wears out to fast causing it to leak internally.
Now I do, replace the reservoir fluid about every 6 weeks or when I see it’s really black and dirty. only takes about 3 minutes to do it.
I haven’t had the fuel sender issue yet, but I only use Chevron 93 Oct fuel.
I did replace the vibration dampener for piece of mind b/c the belt would squeak on cold starts but only in cold weather.
And my rear end does have some fluid seepage. It just gets dirty looking but no noticeable drips of any kind.
And I’m not sure if the oil pressure sensor has ever been replaced but so far it reads correctly and doesn’t leak yet.
Bingo on the clutch Master. After I upgraded mine to the mcleod/wilwood master I cut my stock one open and there was highly visible scoring in its bore causing loss of pressure. Like bad piston rings, it'll hold some pressure, but start blowing by in hard driving. My c5 race car has had the McLeod master for 5 years no sticky pedal. Corvette owners should look into this unit because it is direct fit with no drilling, and slightly smaller bore than tick so no worry about over extension.
@@PhoenixAutosportsExperience I'm looking at upgrade options and I will definitely check that out. Thanks for the suggestion. ,,😎
Every time I torque down my lugs it feels like they’re going to just break/twist off. They feel absurdly soft, like I just keep tightening and it’s not getting tighter. Just a unsettling feeling. Upgrading the studs this winter.
The rear axle nuts will be replaced also. The clicking is really annoying. I’ve replied loctite three times and went thru the whole process. This time they just won’t stay tight. Time to Replace the nuts.
Never had this issue are you trqing to 100ft lbs?
Yo tengo la solución al problema del pié hundido, he conseguido eliminar el problema sin cambiar ni una sola pieza nueva. Todo el mundo cambia piezas nuevas sin entretenerse a ver que es lo que realmente está fallando. Toda la culpa la tiene el autoajuste.
Love the c5 content
They made the c5 long. Reason I traded mine in for a c6 also c6 had like 80k less miles too
10k +1
Oil sensor no need remove intake I did mine 35 mins use wobble with correct sensor socket use long Pilar’s remove
Electrical wire
Just blow off the intake sealing surfaces with compressed air, where they meet the intake ports. Then yank the intake. 10 6mm bolts. Easiest to remove intake in history. Hint-If you DO NOT torque the new sender to the recommended value, the replacement sender WILL FAIL sooner than it should!!!
Would you recommend me installing a clutch remote bleeder (assuming i can) or just use the ranger method? Car only has 20k miles and clutch fluid looks good (i think he did ranger method recently). Just curious if I can even get the remote bleeder installed by dropping the H-pipe?
I hate to say it, but a car that old with very low mileage may end up needing more things fixed due to sitting for so long. Especially if you drive it hard. The car isn't properly broken in yet, so go easy on it at first. A friend of mine and myself both bought C5 Corvettes and BOTH of us broke the harmonic balancer within a month of ownership. But these cars are still more solid than most, so maybe you won't have any issues for a while!
If the fluid looks good I wouldn't worry about it yet!
@@Viper3048 How is a car with 20k miles not properly broke in yet? I agree a car that sits a lot could have issues, but this one seems really good to go. No balancer wobble (although i already have plans to get it fixed with an upper oil pan gasket in the near future).
The Headlight motors are trash
Look at camera instead of ceiling
I thought my ceiling camera was on 🤦🏼♂️ I'm so embarrassed
Maybe he just watched The Grudge 😂
I’m first !!!!!!!!