A few things would make this much faster and easier. First, if you're the hydrant man, there NO reason to have your SCBA on, the hydrant isn't on fire. Leave it on the engine and let it carry it up to the fire for you. No reason to expend that energy before you go into a fire. Use a piece of webbing in a girth hitch around the end of the supply line hanging down low enough for you to grab it without having to climb up. The hydrant adapter should be carried on the hose ready to go. When you pull the hose, don't wrap the very end, wrap it about 30' from the end so you have slack. You don't want a 90 degree kink right at the end that will restrict your water flow. You only need to put on a 2 1/2 gate valve if you have about a 10" or greater water main, because below that you'll max out your potential flow with just a 5" line if an engine is pumping on the hydrant.
Let me give you a second method to stab the hydrant. If you wrap the hose around the hydrant and the hose snags and locks up coming out of the back. Either the hydrant cracks or the hose rips. Instead bring the hose six feet past the hydrant and fold it back against the hydrant and bring the hose couple up pass the hydrant. Then place your foot on fold against the hydrant. The hose couple face the truck. If it snags it will just pull out from your foot and go down the street.
Thankyou so much for this video, this is exactly what I needed
I have never seen such clean water come out of a hydrant. In my town it looks like chocolate milk lol
Looks like they hit this one fairly often
Only the water in the barrel of the hydrant is dirty. Once the water from the main flushes it out it will be clear.
A few things would make this much faster and easier. First, if you're the hydrant man, there NO reason to have your SCBA on, the hydrant isn't on fire. Leave it on the engine and let it carry it up to the fire for you. No reason to expend that energy before you go into a fire. Use a piece of webbing in a girth hitch around the end of the supply line hanging down low enough for you to grab it without having to climb up. The hydrant adapter should be carried on the hose ready to go. When you pull the hose, don't wrap the very end, wrap it about 30' from the end so you have slack. You don't want a 90 degree kink right at the end that will restrict your water flow. You only need to put on a 2 1/2 gate valve if you have about a 10" or greater water main, because below that you'll max out your potential flow with just a 5" line if an engine is pumping on the hydrant.
Let me give you a second method to stab the hydrant. If you wrap the hose around the hydrant and the hose snags and locks up coming out of the back. Either the hydrant cracks or the hose rips. Instead bring the hose six feet past the hydrant and fold it back against the hydrant and bring the hose couple up pass the hydrant. Then place your foot on fold against the hydrant. The hose couple face the truck. If it snags it will just pull out from your foot and go down the street.
Great advice, I was thinking the same thing. Heard of some guys getting smoked by a coupling after the rig took off
Everything seems great but the scba mask is just getting in the wya and might even snag or rip.
talk about not being aware of your mask and regulator.... jeez. Not sure who taught this rookie, but that's a fail in my books