Nicely done!! You seriously made my day. I've been searching for a instructional video for tearing this exact GPU down for what feels like weeks now. I was sooooo nervous to pull the backplate off because of the two posts that hold it in place. Without your video I may never have had the confidence to just pull it apart lol.. So thank you for making and posting this video!!!!! I'll send you pics of my build once its complete if you wanna swap pics & discuss builds ever. :)
Great vid. I've got the MSI gaming trio 7900xtx and can't find anything on it. Bykski is literally the only company that produces a waterblock for it. This vid def helps out.
Nice vid. You can probably expect the hydronaught to pump out over time and give you bad hotspot temps. It’s a known issue with rdna3. You’d be better off replacing it with a sheet of ptm7950 s it’s a phase change material and won’t pump out over time
I haven't had any issues so far with the thermal compound and the GPU is vertical mounted. However I am going to be testing with ptm7950 when I do the next coolant change
Wow...thank you for this wonderful video! You are very skilled and courageous. I own this amazing GPU, I just bought it and it's the best GPU I had. I would love to have it run on watter cooling like you did here but I am too afraid to even open it. I could never do it even if I have put together my whole PC piece by piece. If you would ever visit Romania I would pay you to help me with this. Much health!
Fantastic! The only card, and the only waterblock, I could like in palce of Xfx 6800xt Byksky water cooled! That card is really awesome! Awesome! Fantastic! Have Fun, Man! 🤩🙌
Thank you so much for this video! I was stuck trying to get the cooler off and had no idea how to proceed. Missed the 4th screw on the pci plate and also hadnt taken the top and fans off.. feels like it shouldnt be necessary but i wasnt ablw to do it without it. Thank you!
Quick question, I got my nitro and it runs quite cool, but I still want to try the ptm7950. Stumbled on your video looking for a dissasembly guide and from what I can see the stock thermal paste looks like phase change pad, no idea if its the ptm7950 or something similar, would you or someone else be able to confirm that?
@KirtisIsChaos did repaste myself after the previous comment. GPU barely hits 60C overclocked and undervolted with the ptm7950. I also used putty instead of pads on anything else
I have the sapphire RX 7900XT Pulse. on mine it cames with the same screws as yours, but i at least mounted 4 of the screws with the spring the other two i miss were the holes were (the pcb bends a little as the screws with spring are short and tension a little), and with that the block was secured, then i put the 8 screws of the black plate as yours and putting special more strong torque on the 4 screws that presion over the gpu.... My temps are nice 22º on idle and most hot that i see it in full load were 37ºC, and the block lights are similar to the barrow block for cpu that i have for the 7800x3d.
@@franksherman5093 based on the design of the block I have you can't without potentially damaging the backplate. I also noticed bending on PCB when using the spring screws which will damage you GPU over time
@@KirtisIsChaosfor the backplate i used same screws as you, the 4 spring screws are on another position and you have to attach them before mounting the backplate, then the backplate never gets close to the spring screws. the bending of the pcb with spring screws is not so much, after all is mounted is barely perceptible that is not totally straight. (maybe that is done because that way when you put the backplate it have two presion brackets over the gpu , that when tighten the backplate makes the pcb straigh again and ensure that you have enought pressure for the block over the gpu).
@@KirtisIsChaos I have a Sapphire pulse 7900XT and it looks like I have the same exact waterblock kit as yours. I will just forget about the spring screws and proceed as shown in your video. Thanks again.
Good job Kirtis, Your link goes to the the instructions for the Hellhound card block? I was really confused by the spring screws. How is your card performing in your new block? Thanks for this video.
Apologies for the link being incorrect it should have directed you to the Sapphire Block. Yeah the screws were definitely confusing. I am seeing 20-22c idle temps and mid 40s at full load however the hotspot temps are 28-30 on idle and mid 50s to 60c which is at least 25c cooler than the stock cooler
I hate the backplate , it feels like it never places a even amount of pressure. I was forced to place a thermal pad under the rubber to give it alittle bit of extra pressure so my hot spot wasn't hitting over 100c
I wanted to understand a coa is thanks to your video I was able to notice it : I saw that there is a lot of empty space to apply under the fan shell to be able to add some led stripes I have the gpu vertically and I am sorry that there is not even a small light . I really appreciate of this board the two huge led bance sio sides . certainly aesthetically it is not the most beautiful but still it is the most powerful of the 7900xtx series
Hey man, I installed the Bykski block on my Sapphire Nitro+ 7900XTX using this guide. Just wanted to confirm some questions (I haven't tested it/turned it on yet as build is still w.i.p.). Did you end up being able to use the spring screws at all? I was not able to, but wanted to make sure that its okay to not use em. Also, I did not use thermal pads on the components with LR15, is that also alright to not do? Noticed the stock cooler had thermal pads over top of those.
Good evening Stephen, Thank you for your comment and I am happy to help. The spring screws aren't needed as the longer screws through the backplate do the same job because of the hardened rubber blocks on the backplate. Yes that's correct the R15 components don't require thermal pads with the block because they don't generate enough heat to require it, I do recommend using the original thermal blocks for the backplate of the GPU to make the backplate an active cooling solution to help with temperatures on the RAM modules. Please ensure you do use the shorter screws to secure the PCB to the waterblock in the screw holes that do not align with the backplate. Let me know if you have any other questions
@@KirtisIsChaos you said that you need to use the shorter screws in the holes that dont align with the backplate. Which shorter screws? Are they included with the block? Just ordered the block. Thnx in advance.
Ya, that was kind of a bummer for me. other companies like ek design their blocks so the block itself is "up-right" even though the card is up-side-down. Bykski didn't take that same idea into mind.
Mate, thank you! Ive got a 7800xt but it looks the same physically. What screw did you use to get the plastic shroud off? Their the only ones i cant figure out. Theyre not your standard philips or like the others screws.
Kirtis, are you generally happy with the Bykski? Have you installed the Aqua unlimited bios and had a test to see what the card can really do while watercooled?
Hi Kirtis. George here. i had received a few days ago my block from bykski. i have an Ashrock 7900XTX Taichi. So probably i will have a lot of things to ask you.. but for now i just only want to ask you what size to prefer in order to add different thermal pads than those from Bykski. Should i go with 1mm or 1.5mm? As thermal past i will use the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme. Thanks!
Hi, great video. I have the same GPU, been thinking of changing the thermal paste, would I need to take off the back plate or can you just take off the fans and heatsink? Cheers
There are some screws in the backplate connecting it to the rest of the cooler you would need to remove those and the X clamp to remove the front of the cooler to apply new thermal paste
@@KirtisIsChaos i have buyed ek thermal pads 1.5mm but my hotspot going up to 93 celsiusi have to replace it or find another type of 1.5 because here in italy i didn’t find it 😞
so, in my world of lingo this mounting method is called a 'hard mount". hard mounts are really really good, when you get it right, and can be somewhat easy to crack the die, when you get it wrong. i just got this block in, and i am very concerned about hard mounting it, the standoff distance needs to be basically perfect and any uneven pressure will be directly transferred to the die because there is nowhere in the mounting system to 'give'. ive only ever hard mounted blocks on CPU's that still have their IHS, seams very high risk with direct die. if you could confirm a few details, 1. how is the standoff distance on the die side of the card, do the standoffs reach all the way to the PCB and act as a Hard stop, or do they float. 2. if you can, describe how tight these 4 screws are that are responsible for applying pressure to the die. 3. would you say the stock backplate and leaf is usable, albeit ugly, would the stock backplate interfere with anything (fittings come to mind). thx in advance. also to anyone with a large die card (over about 700mm^2) the entire mounting of the cooler becomes pretty important to achieve uniform pressure, i would not recommend using one of these cards without a backplate, and certainly not with those dinky spring screws, always use your leaf/some reliable method of distributing pressure (leaf has added benefit of knowing when your 'tight enough' as they are designed to exert the correct pressure once they are flat against the pcb.
So I had to rewind this to be sure. But you missed putting any thermal compound of the 2 longest rows of chips. 1 literally goes from the top to the bottom of the watercooler. They are the ones that are sunk into the watercooler. Vs all the others that are rising above the watercooler base. I came here as the back plate was confusing, so thank you for the video.
That's because the R15 chips don't require active cooling as per the guidance, even the reference AMD GPU doesn't have thermal pads on that they are inductors and don't generate enough heat
You can put thermal pads on there if you choose to however it is not recommended as it's not in the guidance for the Bykski Waterblock or the Alphacool version
GPUs have become monstrosities. The parts of this one look industrial, nothing like GPUs of old. Surprised motherboards can even support them without cracking
This is not the way you install a GPU water block, he never read the instructions and he is explaining like he knows what he is talking about. This is why I can't understand when UA-camrs put content out and they don't know what they are talking about.
Please can you clarify how I am not reading the instructions when they are clearly on my phone in the video, please don't start putting comments like this when you clearly haven't watched the entire video
Why did you not put thermal pads on some of the most important components of your GPU 😂did you think the part that's hollowed out for the chips to just sit in with nothing on them ? Have you ever done a GPU block before ? You didn't think it seemed funny at all that two whole rows of chips that have a big R15 on all of them just didn't need any pads on them ? Lol this is why you shouldnt buy a bykski block if you don't know what you're doing.. especially posting it on here like this smh 🤦
The guide shows that you don't require thermal pads on those components I have installed the block to the manufacturer specifications in the following guidance if you look through the images provided. www.bykski.us/products/bykski-full-coverage-gpu-water-block-and-backplate-for-sapphire-radeon-rx-7900-xtx-nitro-a-sp7900xtx-x
@@KirtisIsChaos that's why the guide is wrong lol you 100% are supposed to put thermal pads on those inductors. Why do you think there is a cut out in the nickel plated copper for the inductors to sit in. This is why the bykski water block is not for everyone.. if you don't know what you're doing.
I have installed a few GPU blocks before both Alphacool and EK and yes they do advise on some of their blocks to install a thermal pad onto those components but I will also point out on the Alphacool block for this GPU it is also not advised to place thermal pads on these components as can be seen from this guide here. Which I did also sense check for reference prior to installing the block. shop.alphacool.com/en/shop/gpu-water-cooling/amd/13458-alphacool-eisblock-aurora-acryl-rx-7900xtx/xt-nitro-with-backplate Please refrain from comments advising I don't know what I am doing when I was following the guidance provided by the manufacturer and checking other blocks too.
The cut out is to allow for the GPU waterblock to sit on the small VRM chips whilst not touching the R15 chips, the Alphacool block for the previous 6000 generation also didn't cover these chips You can check the manual here for this too. shop.alphacool.com/en/shop/gpu-water-cooling/amd/11948-eisblock-aurora-acryl-gpx-a-radeon-rx-6800xt/6900xt-nitro-with-backplate You will see that Block is actually cut around the chips on this GPU
Nicely done!! You seriously made my day. I've been searching for a instructional video for tearing this exact GPU down for what feels like weeks now. I was sooooo nervous to pull the backplate off because of the two posts that hold it in place. Without your video I may never have had the confidence to just pull it apart lol.. So thank you for making and posting this video!!!!! I'll send you pics of my build once its complete if you wanna swap pics & discuss builds ever. :)
I look forward to seeing your build
There is a video up of the build
Thanks for the video, got a Bykski block coming for my Asus TUF 7900xtx in the next few days...
Can you tell me your before and after GPU temps please?
How was your Bykski block installation for your ASUS @allen80supra
Great vid. I've got the MSI gaming trio 7900xtx and can't find anything on it. Bykski is literally the only company that produces a waterblock for it. This vid def helps out.
Hi, I got the same card, planning to purchase bykski block..
Do You got Yours? Overall experience? Any advice?
Thanks in advance..
Nice vid. You can probably expect the hydronaught to pump out over time and give you bad hotspot temps. It’s a known issue with rdna3. You’d be better off replacing it with a sheet of ptm7950 s it’s a phase change material and won’t pump out over time
I haven't had any issues so far with the thermal compound and the GPU is vertical mounted. However I am going to be testing with ptm7950 when I do the next coolant change
Wow...thank you for this wonderful video! You are very skilled and courageous. I own this amazing GPU, I just bought it and it's the best GPU I had. I would love to have it run on watter cooling like you did here but I am too afraid to even open it. I could never do it even if I have put together my whole PC piece by piece. If you would ever visit Romania I would pay you to help me with this. Much health!
Fantastic! The only card, and the only waterblock, I could like in palce of Xfx 6800xt Byksky water cooled! That card is really awesome! Awesome! Fantastic! Have Fun, Man! 🤩🙌
Thank you so much for this video! I was stuck trying to get the cooler off and had no idea how to proceed. Missed the 4th screw on the pci plate and also hadnt taken the top and fans off.. feels like it shouldnt be necessary but i wasnt ablw to do it without it. Thank you!
no problem, I am glad my video has helped you
Quick question, I got my nitro and it runs quite cool, but I still want to try the ptm7950. Stumbled on your video looking for a dissasembly guide and from what I can see the stock thermal paste looks like phase change pad, no idea if its the ptm7950 or something similar, would you or someone else be able to confirm that?
I can confirm the stock thermal paste is thermal paste I swapped to ptm7950 a couple of months ago only a slight improvement on temps
@KirtisIsChaos did repaste myself after the previous comment. GPU barely hits 60C overclocked and undervolted with the ptm7950. I also used putty instead of pads on anything else
I have the sapphire RX 7900XT Pulse.
on mine it cames with the same screws as yours, but i at least mounted 4 of the screws with the spring the other two i miss were the holes were (the pcb bends a little as the screws with spring are short and tension a little), and with that the block was secured, then i put the 8 screws of the black plate as yours and putting special more strong torque on the 4 screws that presion over the gpu....
My temps are nice 22º on idle and most hot that i see it in full load were 37ºC, and the block lights are similar to the barrow block for cpu that i have for the 7800x3d.
Clockterra, how can you use the 4 spring screw and still use all 8 backplate screws?
Thanks
Frank
How were you able to screw down the backplate whilst using the spring screws without bending the backplate?
@@franksherman5093 based on the design of the block I have you can't without potentially damaging the backplate. I also noticed bending on PCB when using the spring screws which will damage you GPU over time
@@KirtisIsChaosfor the backplate i used same screws as you, the 4 spring screws are on another position and you have to attach them before mounting the backplate, then the backplate never gets close to the spring screws.
the bending of the pcb with spring screws is not so much, after all is mounted is barely perceptible that is not totally straight. (maybe that is done because that way when you put the backplate it have two presion brackets over the gpu , that when tighten the backplate makes the pcb straigh again and ensure that you have enought pressure for the block over the gpu).
@@KirtisIsChaos I have a Sapphire pulse 7900XT and it looks like I have the same exact waterblock kit as yours. I will just forget about the spring screws and proceed as shown in your video. Thanks again.
Could u bench this card after this upgrade ? It will very helpful if u shows us some temps while benching. Thanks for your videos
Absolutely what benchmarks would you like to see? I have 3DMark, and I can run some in-game benchmarks
Good job Kirtis, Your link goes to the the instructions for the Hellhound card block? I was really confused by the spring screws. How is your card performing in your new block?
Thanks for this video.
Apologies for the link being incorrect it should have directed you to the Sapphire Block. Yeah the screws were definitely confusing. I am seeing 20-22c idle temps and mid 40s at full load however the hotspot temps are 28-30 on idle and mid 50s to 60c which is at least 25c cooler than the stock cooler
I hate the backplate , it feels like it never places a even amount of pressure. I was forced to place a thermal pad under the rubber to give it alittle bit of extra pressure so my hot spot wasn't hitting over 100c
good video. Thanks so much for blinding me in the process.
I wanted to understand a coa is thanks to your video I was able to notice it : I saw that there is a lot of empty space to apply under the fan shell to be able to add some led stripes I have the gpu vertically and I am sorry that there is not even a small light .
I really appreciate of this board the two huge led bance sio sides . certainly aesthetically it is not the most beautiful but still it is the most powerful of the 7900xtx series
Hey man, I installed the Bykski block on my Sapphire Nitro+ 7900XTX using this guide. Just wanted to confirm some questions (I haven't tested it/turned it on yet as build is still w.i.p.). Did you end up being able to use the spring screws at all? I was not able to, but wanted to make sure that its okay to not use em. Also, I did not use thermal pads on the components with LR15, is that also alright to not do? Noticed the stock cooler had thermal pads over top of those.
Good evening Stephen,
Thank you for your comment and I am happy to help.
The spring screws aren't needed as the longer screws through the backplate do the same job because of the hardened rubber blocks on the backplate. Yes that's correct the R15 components don't require thermal pads with the block because they don't generate enough heat to require it, I do recommend using the original thermal blocks for the backplate of the GPU to make the backplate an active cooling solution to help with temperatures on the RAM modules.
Please ensure you do use the shorter screws to secure the PCB to the waterblock in the screw holes that do not align with the backplate.
Let me know if you have any other questions
@@KirtisIsChaoswhich shorter screws if i may ask?
@@swizzler8053 What do you mean?
@@KirtisIsChaos you said that you need to use the shorter screws in the holes that dont align with the backplate. Which shorter screws? Are they included with the block? Just ordered the block. Thnx in advance.
@@swizzler8053 yes they come with the block, it's the ones that don't have springs on them
Novice question: Is this gpu water block compatible with other brands of parts, tubing, pumps etc. Thinking about Doing this for my sapphire pulse.
It is compatible with the 7900xtx Pulse
Its weird because i did mine and the card plugs in upside down
What do you mean?
Ya, that was kind of a bummer for me. other companies like ek design their blocks so the block itself is "up-right" even though the card is up-side-down. Bykski didn't take that same idea into mind.
Mate, thank you! Ive got a 7800xt but it looks the same physically. What screw did you use to get the plastic shroud off?
Their the only ones i cant figure out. Theyre not your standard philips or like the others screws.
its allankey
Kirtis, are you generally happy with the Bykski? Have you installed the Aqua unlimited bios and had a test to see what the card can really do while watercooled?
I haven't done this as I didn't think it was necessary
Regarding the happiness with the block, instructions aside I am very happy with it
what is the width of it ?
Which screws do i use to secut the back plate? The Black ones???
The longer black screws
@@KirtisIsChaos thanks ... Also thanks for replying to my Facebook post as well
Hi Kirtis. George here. i had received a few days ago my block from bykski. i have an Ashrock 7900XTX Taichi. So probably i will have a lot of things to ask you.. but for now i just only want to ask you what size to prefer in order to add different thermal pads than those from Bykski. Should i go with 1mm or 1.5mm? As thermal past i will use the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme. Thanks!
Because Bykski is 1.2mm thermal pads I can only recommend using there's due to the clearance
Hi, great video.
I have the same GPU, been thinking of changing the thermal paste, would I need to take off the back plate or can you just take off the fans and heatsink?
Cheers
There are some screws in the backplate connecting it to the rest of the cooler you would need to remove those and the X clamp to remove the front of the cooler to apply new thermal paste
@KirtisIsChaos Thanks appreciate it
@@novazenith no problem at all happy to help!!
What does performance look like stock vs watercooled??! Have another video??
I don't have a comparison of before and after but I can confirm it does maintain the higher clock speeds without any thermal throttling
@@KirtisIsChaos I max at about 2800 with air. Is the card maintaining a pretty solid 3ghz for you though? I think thats worth. Amd great video btw.
What type of thermal pads have you mounted? 1.2mm? And can you say me the hotspot temperature under load?
Max 60c for hotspot temp and they are the 1.2mm thermal pads that came with the block
@@KirtisIsChaos i have buyed ek thermal pads 1.5mm but my hotspot going up to 93 celsiusi have to replace it or find another type of 1.5 because here in italy i didn’t find it 😞
@@ToToPoWeR46ezmodding sells them bro. They are located in Germany.
hi, nice video, helps me a lot. do you by any chance know the thermal pads thickness of that exact gpu model?
Is this GPU pads for the block or original cooler?
@@KirtisIsChaos Oh, for the original cooler
I don't actually know this answer as I hadn't needed to replace them
@@KirtisIsChaos Aight, thanks anyway!
so, in my world of lingo this mounting method is called a 'hard mount". hard mounts are really really good, when you get it right, and can be somewhat easy to crack the die, when you get it wrong. i just got this block in, and i am very concerned about hard mounting it, the standoff distance needs to be basically perfect and any uneven pressure will be directly transferred to the die because there is nowhere in the mounting system to 'give'. ive only ever hard mounted blocks on CPU's that still have their IHS, seams very high risk with direct die. if you could confirm a few details, 1. how is the standoff distance on the die side of the card, do the standoffs reach all the way to the PCB and act as a Hard stop, or do they float. 2. if you can, describe how tight these 4 screws are that are responsible for applying pressure to the die. 3. would you say the stock backplate and leaf is usable, albeit ugly, would the stock backplate interfere with anything (fittings come to mind). thx in advance. also to anyone with a large die card (over about 700mm^2) the entire mounting of the cooler becomes pretty important to achieve uniform pressure, i would not recommend using one of these cards without a backplate, and certainly not with those dinky spring screws, always use your leaf/some reliable method of distributing pressure (leaf has added benefit of knowing when your 'tight enough' as they are designed to exert the correct pressure once they are flat against the pcb.
Can you get aftermarket gpu single slot io shield for that GPU?
Yes you can get a two slot I/O Shield
a.aliexpress.com/_EJYjoGx
How do you like the bykski block? I just got an alphacool for my 7900xtx.
I really like the block, I wouldn't go and change from one block to another unless there is an issue with it, how is your Alphacool one performing?
Que pines tengo que eleguir
What software for the RGB?
@@Phantomm397 Corsair iCUE
So I had to rewind this to be sure. But you missed putting any thermal compound of the 2 longest rows of chips. 1 literally goes from the top to the bottom of the watercooler. They are the ones that are sunk into the watercooler. Vs all the others that are rising above the watercooler base. I came here as the back plate was confusing, so thank you for the video.
That's because the R15 chips don't require active cooling as per the guidance, even the reference AMD GPU doesn't have thermal pads on that they are inductors and don't generate enough heat
You can put thermal pads on there if you choose to however it is not recommended as it's not in the guidance for the Bykski Waterblock or the Alphacool version
GPUs have become monstrosities. The parts of this one look industrial, nothing like GPUs of old. Surprised motherboards can even support them without cracking
nice vid and help me on install same block on my gpu
does the video card still work after installation?🙃
Hello, yes it does.
There is a follow up video of me testing the card
only criticism i have is the weird camera angle and lots of what you're doing is out of sight.
Appreciate the feedback still working on improving the videos
That was so painful to watch.
Please explain the reason for this comment?
This is not the way you install a GPU water block, he never read the instructions and he is explaining like he knows what he is talking about. This is why I can't understand when UA-camrs put content out and they don't know what they are talking about.
Please can you clarify how I am not reading the instructions when they are clearly on my phone in the video, please don't start putting comments like this when you clearly haven't watched the entire video
Why did you not put thermal pads on some of the most important components of your GPU 😂did you think the part that's hollowed out for the chips to just sit in with nothing on them ? Have you ever done a GPU block before ? You didn't think it seemed funny at all that two whole rows of chips that have a big R15 on all of them just didn't need any pads on them ? Lol this is why you shouldnt buy a bykski block if you don't know what you're doing.. especially posting it on here like this smh 🤦
The guide shows that you don't require thermal pads on those components I have installed the block to the manufacturer specifications in the following guidance if you look through the images provided.
www.bykski.us/products/bykski-full-coverage-gpu-water-block-and-backplate-for-sapphire-radeon-rx-7900-xtx-nitro-a-sp7900xtx-x
@@KirtisIsChaos that's why the guide is wrong lol you 100% are supposed to put thermal pads on those inductors. Why do you think there is a cut out in the nickel plated copper for the inductors to sit in. This is why the bykski water block is not for everyone.. if you don't know what you're doing.
I have installed a few GPU blocks before both Alphacool and EK and yes they do advise on some of their blocks to install a thermal pad onto those components but I will also point out on the Alphacool block for this GPU it is also not advised to place thermal pads on these components as can be seen from this guide here. Which I did also sense check for reference prior to installing the block.
shop.alphacool.com/en/shop/gpu-water-cooling/amd/13458-alphacool-eisblock-aurora-acryl-rx-7900xtx/xt-nitro-with-backplate
Please refrain from comments advising I don't know what I am doing when I was following the guidance provided by the manufacturer and checking other blocks too.
The cut out is to allow for the GPU waterblock to sit on the small VRM chips whilst not touching the R15 chips, the Alphacool block for the previous 6000 generation also didn't cover these chips
You can check the manual here for this too.
shop.alphacool.com/en/shop/gpu-water-cooling/amd/11948-eisblock-aurora-acryl-gpx-a-radeon-rx-6800xt/6900xt-nitro-with-backplate
You will see that Block is actually cut around the chips on this GPU
The inductors aren't even cooled on the AMD reference models as you can see here
www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-radeon-rx-7900-xt/3.html
@KirtisIsChaos how are your memory junction temps with this block?
Junction temps sit around 60c at full load