Excellent video! Like the comment below, I was trying to use 1000hz, but that does not work, too low voltage. I used the 80hz, and set my crossovers to "full" for the test. I found the voltage, then set it up according to the math. Reminder to anyone using a software EQ, put the EQ on Flat or every frequency a few db's negative below flat... I would also suggest to find the EXACT point of clipping from your head unit (before it goes into the AudioControl)... Mine, for example, is clear at volume 33, then clips at volume 34. That's is "probably" 75% or so, but you can see how a single db can make the difference!
You can give your speakers more than 50 rms, you always want to go over the rms rating a little. No system runs at 100% efficiency, there's all kinds of factors that leads to wattage loss. If your speakers are rated for 50 rms and you match your amp to do 50 rms your speakers will only get a percentage of that. If your amp runs at 75% efficiency, your speaker is only gonna see about 33 rms, thats just one factor and will only do that if you play a continuous sine wave which we don't do. We listen to music, so that plays all different frequencies which will also drop your 33 rms down even more, lets say to 25 rms. Another factor is your voltage, does your voltage drop when system is turned up? 99% of the time it will, especially if your running other things like lights, heat/AC, wipers, etc at the same time. So if your amp is rated 50 watts rms at 14.4 volts and your voltage drops to 13 volts or lower, your gonna lose even more of that 25 rms, let's say only 5 rms is lost. Now your speakers are only seeing 20 rms, of coarse that's an exaggerated example but the point is no system runs 100% efficient so you always want to exceed your speakers rated power to make up for all those factors. Instead of getting a 50 rms amp, get a 75-100 rms amp and clamp it to see how much juice your speakers are getting in real time and adjust the gain to where the wattage is averaging 50 rms. To much power is safer than not enough power as long as your not clipping the signal, it will sound cleaner and last longer. When you don't have enough power people tend to crank it up real loud distorting the signal and end up blowing there speakers.
And for you tuff guy. Who you going to slap in the face your kid? Carefully what you say. You'd feel pretty stupid if some big mean dude was sitting in your car listening to you waste of a system and he slapped you in the face when you start running that mouth. Bet all you would do is call the cops😂
Great vid, one of the clearest ones I've seen. My use case may be unique so i will ask; is the formula any different whe you are using a 4channel amp in bridge mode? I will be installing 2 amps for the added wattage and want to do my best to ensure only the needed power gets pushed to the speakers. Aslo, would it make sense to turn on the the enhancements to not give my kids or anyone the opportunity to blow the doors off my ride literally; because I have alreaded accounted for any spikes they would cause? TIA
I have 4 jbl speakers that run 60 rms and the 4 channel amp i got runs 125x4 2ohms 75 watts x4 4 ohms is this amp good for my speakers because mine dont match the same like yours did with the 50
Very simple and informative video. Can you indicate the 50 RMS that use in square root equation obtain from Amplifier value or speaker? Cause my Amplifier indicate (Manufacturer) 60 RMS x 4ohm Other hand my speaker 30 RMS @ 4ohm. Should use 60 or 30? Thank you.
Hi I'm been trying a few days trying this on my 4.1 infinity amp. I get 0 reading or 0.1/0.2 when i turn up gain. I have 2 cheap harbour freight DMM. 1 new 1 old. I tested on full/HPF/LPF on 50/60/80/1000hz. What am i doing wrong or buy a good DMM?
Well for one make sure your multimeter has the correct setting. Two make sure amp has correct setting, if it's for door speakers use full, if it's for tweeters you will want a high pass, and if it's for subwoofer use low pass. Each of there zones has to be tested independently
Make sure your probes are plugged into the DMM and you are actually touching the metal on amp. Check and see if the DMM works by checking you car battery voltage
@@RaymondUrias ya its on ACV. I mean when i test on my battery its DC. Another video shows their harbor freight DMM works great. Its frustrating to spend money when i have 2 cheap meters.
I don't know why they would do that. Low frequency has higher power usage. You want to protect the speakers from that. Also they could have their crossover setup different. Maybe they have it at 1000. But that would make no sense..... Lol I have no idea who in the right mind would do that
@@RaymondUrias I have another question? I have a kicker 360.4 it's class ab and it's getting hot. I set gains according to your video on a 50hz test tone. I have it grounded great, checked continuity is good, but still hot. Any suggestions would be helpful thanks. With the amp running less than the voltage required?
@@cool4real82 amps do get warm.. but not hot to the touch/ burn. They should be in a well ventilated area. Make sure you are using the correct guage wire for ground and supply. That amp should need a 4 guage wire and 8 at the minimum. Make sure your gains are correct and reference your manual to confirm. They actually have a chart that shows what the voltage should be around.
Excellent video! Like the comment below, I was trying to use 1000hz, but that does not work, too low voltage. I used the 80hz, and set my crossovers to "full" for the test. I found the voltage, then set it up according to the math. Reminder to anyone using a software EQ, put the EQ on Flat or every frequency a few db's negative below flat... I would also suggest to find the EXACT point of clipping from your head unit (before it goes into the AudioControl)... Mine, for example, is clear at volume 33, then clips at volume 34. That's is "probably" 75% or so, but you can see how a single db can make the difference!
You can give your speakers more than 50 rms, you always want to go over the rms rating a little. No system runs at 100% efficiency, there's all kinds of factors that leads to wattage loss. If your speakers are rated for 50 rms and you match your amp to do 50 rms your speakers will only get a percentage of that. If your amp runs at 75% efficiency, your speaker is only gonna see about 33 rms, thats just one factor and will only do that if you play a continuous sine wave which we don't do. We listen to music, so that plays all different frequencies which will also drop your 33 rms down even more, lets say to 25 rms. Another factor is your voltage, does your voltage drop when system is turned up? 99% of the time it will, especially if your running other things like lights, heat/AC, wipers, etc at the same time. So if your amp is rated 50 watts rms at 14.4 volts and your voltage drops to 13 volts or lower, your gonna lose even more of that 25 rms, let's say only 5 rms is lost. Now your speakers are only seeing 20 rms, of coarse that's an exaggerated example but the point is no system runs 100% efficient so you always want to exceed your speakers rated power to make up for all those factors. Instead of getting a 50 rms amp, get a 75-100 rms amp and clamp it to see how much juice your speakers are getting in real time and adjust the gain to where the wattage is averaging 50 rms. To much power is safer than not enough power as long as your not clipping the signal, it will sound cleaner and last longer. When you don't have enough power people tend to crank it up real loud distorting the signal and end up blowing there speakers.
Let's not forget about impedance rise. In reality this guy is getting 15 to 20w if he is lucky. Then they will say the speakers or the amp is junk.
Thanks for watching the video!!!! Hope this helps you out!
And for you tuff guy. Who you going to slap in the face your kid? Carefully what you say. You'd feel pretty stupid if some big mean dude was sitting in your car listening to you waste of a system and he slapped you in the face when you start running that mouth. Bet all you would do is call the cops😂
so you multiply the wattage FIRST, then square root the answer. Thank you! so confusing, some people saying square root of wattage x 4.
Great vid, one of the clearest ones I've seen. My use case may be unique so i will ask; is the formula any different whe you are using a 4channel amp in bridge mode? I will be installing 2 amps for the added wattage and want to do my best to ensure only the needed power gets pushed to the speakers. Aslo, would it make sense to turn on the the enhancements to not give my kids or anyone the opportunity to blow the doors off my ride literally; because I have alreaded accounted for any spikes they would cause? TIA
I have 4 jbl speakers that run 60 rms and the 4 channel amp i got runs 125x4 2ohms 75 watts x4 4 ohms is this amp good for my speakers because mine dont match the same like yours did with the 50
Very simple and informative video.
Can you indicate the 50 RMS that use in square root equation obtain from Amplifier value or speaker?
Cause my Amplifier indicate (Manufacturer) 60 RMS x 4ohm
Other hand my speaker 30 RMS @ 4ohm.
Should use 60 or 30? Thank you.
You would use whichever is the weaker one. In your case your speakers can only take 30 anything more will risk blowing them.
You did not say what you set your multi meter to or did you say where you were putting your probes. Can you LMK what you did there? Thanks
Go to @4:30
It's set on 200AC and put negative on negative channel and positive channel you are testing. You will have to test each speaker channel
Maybe be dumb but should you use the 80hz for all amps? Or are they different trying to set up my 800.4 db
80hz
Hi I'm been trying a few days trying this on my 4.1 infinity amp. I get 0 reading or 0.1/0.2 when i turn up gain. I have 2 cheap harbour freight DMM. 1 new 1 old. I tested on full/HPF/LPF on 50/60/80/1000hz.
What am i doing wrong or buy a good DMM?
Well for one make sure your multimeter has the correct setting.
Two make sure amp has correct setting, if it's for door speakers use full, if it's for tweeters you will want a high pass, and if it's for subwoofer use low pass.
Each of there zones has to be tested independently
Make sure your probes are plugged into the DMM and you are actually touching the metal on amp. Check and see if the DMM works by checking you car battery voltage
@@RaymondUrias it works DC when i test on my battery. Only thing i can think of is the cheap DMM is not sensitive enough for low voltage.
@@danielteo4785 you need to set (AC Volts) on amplifier it's not DC
@@RaymondUrias ya its on ACV. I mean when i test on my battery its DC. Another video shows their harbor freight DMM works great. Its frustrating to spend money when i have 2 cheap meters.
Question, why are there videos with people using a 1000hz 0db test tone to set a 4 channel?
I don't know why they would do that. Low frequency has higher power usage. You want to protect the speakers from that. Also they could have their crossover setup different. Maybe they have it at 1000. But that would make no sense..... Lol I have no idea who in the right mind would do that
@@RaymondUrias lol thanks I want to show the video but UA-cam lol. Thanks for the info
@@RaymondUrias I have another question? I have a kicker 360.4 it's class ab and it's getting hot. I set gains according to your video on a 50hz test tone. I have it grounded great, checked continuity is good, but still hot. Any suggestions would be helpful thanks. With the amp running less than the voltage required?
@@cool4real82 amps do get warm.. but not hot to the touch/ burn. They should be in a well ventilated area. Make sure you are using the correct guage wire for ground and supply. That amp should need a 4 guage wire and 8 at the minimum. Make sure your gains are correct and reference your manual to confirm. They actually have a chart that shows what the voltage should be around.
Is your multimeter set to ac voltage?
AC
The video thumbnail click-baited me. Lol
😂
You have no business making these videos. You give false information. Not your fault. You just don't know what your talking about