You are amazing! I have enjoyed every “episode” especially #16, learned so much about how tension works, thank you. Also, you are an excellent speaker guiding us through the process without “um’s”. Step by step smoothly. Will be soon restoring a 1947, my birth year. Thank you so very much!
You are so welcome! I love comments like this, they are so encouraging so THANK YOU! Good luck with your restoration, if you run into any questions just ask!
Hello, I am leaving in France. It is the first time that I will restore a Featherweight 221K and I searched for tutorials aver this.. I have never seen so complete and detailed explanations over this subject as that you have given. Thank You so much for your videos. 😀
Thank you for another lovely video. Beautifully clear visually and very well-explained. I particularly love the description for the tension discs that you don't "stack them like dishes".
A visual guide to make sure the tension stud is straight horizontally, place a 3 inch stick of a Q-tip in the slot. The length of the stick will provide a better view to check for level.
@@SewingMachineRehab I am restoring my wife's 1951 221-1 and I have followed every step you have given. Your presentation is very complete, especially the little details. I am starting on Step 17 and I have to add some heat shrink to the connections. I did replace the light socket and switch as they were toast. While removing 2 stuck screws, I broke 2 of my screw driver bits I use on my firearms. The screws weren't damaged, but a squirt of WD-40 and left over night then I was able to remove them. Thanks for excellent videos!
This is an excellent series, I certainly appreciate you showing putting it back together because trying to reverse it in my mind’s eye is very difficult. I could not get the spindle part out after three days soaking with penetrating oil. And from the outside there is no evidence of a problem. Onward ho!
That's what I was missing I need to zero it out. I knew I was missing something. I have been waiting for this video. Mine hasn't worked since I got it so I knew something was wrong I think I put it back together correctly thanks to your teardown provided it was correct. Although I might have messed up the disks but I think I already figured that part out. Thank you so much for these.
Very helpful! My 1947 girl, Marjorie, wasn't holding the tension after I'd get it adjusted and get a good looking stitch. I finally took it apart - and it was filthy with a black greasy substance! But I couldn't get the set screw out so I could remove the stud. What substance can I use to loosen the screw? Should I use kerosene to clean inside the socket? I've wiped the parts as clean as I could with a soft cloth. After cleaning, I was still having the issue, so I've purchased new springs, but I want to know about cleaning first.
Hi! I typically use Kroil penetrating oil on stubborn screws. If you can’t get the screw out without damaging it then cleaning the stud in place is your best option. You should still be able to get the tension pin out of the stud, clean it and put it back. I clean all the metal parts that are not painted with something called Krud Kutter but you could also wipe them down with alcohol. Just keep chemicals away from anything painted like the machine itself and the painted dials for the tension assembly. You can wipe those down with oil to clean and then polish them up with carnauba wax. I use one by Zymol but there are other suitable brands out there as well. I hope that helps and let me know if you have other questions!
May I ask how I find your next video. I'm having trouble with my tension spring. It seems like it is catching on something and making a clicking sound.
Jen, the spring action against the stud in my tension assembly isn’t moving the stud forward and thus releasing the tension on the disks. I’ve tried changing the spring in the tension assembly. No luck. What can I do? Thanks Denise
Hi Denise! I haven’t forgotten about you! Email me at jen@sewingmachinerehab.com and let’s talk. I have some ideas but a lengthier explanation is required
I have 2 questions for you. I have reinstalled the tension unit (after cleaning, polishing etc) and zeroed it out. When I assess the tension with the dial on 3 I get a value between 20 and 25. When I slowly increase the dial reading to a larger number, the tension immediately goes to almost too difficult to pull the thread through - there is no gradual increase in tension. I have removed the assembly several times, recleaned, double checked that I am assembling and installing properly and it still behaves in this fashion. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Question 2 is about the grease wicks. I would like to order the 3/16" cord from McMaster-Carr and am not sure if I should order the F1 or F3 cord (the only 2 choices they offer). Any input regarding which is more appropriate for the Featherweight? I really appreciate your input, I am on my second Featherweight and have purchased a 301 to restore - you might say I am hooked on tinkering with these old machines! Thank you Ann
Hm, it could be that you need to replace the take up spring or the bee hive spring. I am not sure what the difference is between the F1 or F3 cord...could you elaborate?
Hi! I know that Singer had different recommendations on how many grams of tension at zero for some models. And the ones without numbered dials would make it impossible to do this step. But, in theory, if you know how many grams of tension you should have at zero you could do this on most of the older models. I hope that helps!
You should definitely see movement in the tension assembly when you raise and lower the presser foot. It should be adding pressure to the discs when you lower it and releasing the pressure when you raise it. Is that what you are seeing?
@@SewingMachineRehab very little movement and the pin doesn't fully return when the pressure is released. Great videos! I have been able to take my machine apart and put it back together. It runs but won't sew. It has a beautiful stitch in the top side but a birds nest on the the bottom. Today it just breaking thread. The upper and lower tension are calibrated with the scale from FWS.
I was able to resolve my problem with the help of comments on Facebook. I installed the thread uptake lever incorrectly. Once I removed it and replaced it properly the problem resolved! Thank you for your thorough videos!
@@elizabethbrown4845 Sorry I didn't get back to you quickly but I am so glad you figured out the problem! I am glad you have some good resources, we can never have too many! I was going to ask if you had the positioning finger placed into the slot under the needle plate but it looks like it wasn't that at all. Great work on solving your problem!
When I raise my pressure foot it’s not bumping against the pin :’( i’ve took it apart and put it back to see if i just didn’t put the pin far in enough but when the pressure foot hits the pin the pin doesn’t bounce back.
Hi, there would be a couple things I would check: make sure the tension pin releasing lever is installed properly, check inside the hole on the tension stud where the pin slides and make sure there isn’t any gunk in it and then make sure the stud is all the way in the machine. If the stud isn’t in far enough the pin won’t be able to do its job. Let me know if any of those fix it!
Hi! You might try using a plastic hammer on the underside of the pin. The underside will look like a nail head and sometimes it can get bent making the spool pin wobble. The other option is to purchase a new cover from the Featherweight shop, here is the link: singer-featherweight.com/products/spool-pin-cover-plate/?aff=57 I hope that helps!
Thank you, I will try to hammer the pin carefully & if it doesn’t work I will purchase new plate. Does the pin spring and felt cushion help with some of that play in the pin or is it only to keep the spool of thread more snug if the hole is larger? Thanks for the easy to understand instructions for cleaning my 221featherweight machine
Hi again! I am not a fan of the spring, I think it gets stuck in the thread spool too much and it can be a little frustrating. The felt will help for sure and I love the thread stands that the Featherweight Shop sells. I think they all are good, I have the least expensive one they sell and I am very happy with it. Hope that helps! @@user-ln4rv4ey2i
@@user-ln4rv4ey2i Hi! Sorry if I missed your question before. I cleaned parts without an ultrasonic cleaner on many machines! I still recommend Krud Kutter if you can get it, out of everything I have tried it works the best and the fastest. Use a solution of water and Krud Kutter that is 50/50 each. You will need to scrub the parts a little more and you can also soak them for about 10 minutes or so. Even just agitating the solution (swirling it around) while the parts are in it will have a similar effect as the ultrasonic cleaner. Then rinse and dry really well. I can’t stress the drying enough. Don’t put any painted parts or things like the numbered tension dial and stitch regulator plate in the solution. You can rinse those with straight water and polish. I hope that helps!
Thank you. Haven’t dug into machine yet, but want to be ready when I get that far. Thanks for your explicit instructions. Very helpful.
So thorough but easy to understand. Thanks to you and Bob Fowler, I'm restoring my Featherweight one step at a time. Thank you!
That is wonderful!
You are amazing! I have enjoyed every “episode” especially #16, learned so much about how tension works, thank you. Also, you are an excellent speaker guiding us through the process without “um’s”. Step by step smoothly. Will be soon restoring a 1947, my birth year. Thank you so very much!
You are so welcome! I love comments like this, they are so encouraging so THANK YOU! Good luck with your restoration, if you run into any questions just ask!
Hello, I am leaving in France. It is the first time that I will restore a Featherweight 221K and I searched for tutorials aver this.. I have never seen so complete and detailed explanations over this subject as that you have given. Thank You so much for your videos.
😀
Hello! I am so glad you are finding the videos helpful! Good luck with your restoration!
Thank you for another lovely video. Beautifully clear visually and very well-explained. I particularly love the description for the tension discs that you don't "stack them like dishes".
They look like tiny dishes to me! :)
I needed this video. Thank you for showing how to zero out the tension assembly. Brilliantly done.
You are very welcome!
Outstanding! BTW - Congratulations on passing 1000 subs!
Hi Bob! A BIG thanks to you for all the shout outs! Hope you are doing well!
A visual guide to make sure the tension stud is straight horizontally, place a 3 inch stick of a Q-tip in the slot. The length of the stick will provide a better view to check for level.
That is a great tip, thank you!
@@SewingMachineRehab I am restoring my wife's 1951 221-1 and I have followed every step you have given. Your presentation is very complete, especially the little details. I am starting on Step 17 and I have to add some heat shrink to the connections. I did replace the light socket and switch as they were toast. While removing 2 stuck screws, I broke 2 of my screw driver bits I use on my firearms. The screws weren't damaged, but a squirt of WD-40 and left over night then I was able to remove them. Thanks for excellent videos!
@@exmedic4509 It pays off to be patient! Bummer about the broken bits though. I have had my share of them!
Thank you "VERY WELL DONE!!
Thank you!!
Absolutely fantastic video - great level of detail and visibility! Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is an excellent series, I certainly appreciate you showing putting it back together because trying to reverse it in my mind’s eye is very difficult. I could not get the spindle part out after three days soaking with penetrating oil. And from the outside there is no evidence of a problem. Onward ho!
Hi, I am so happy the videos are helpful, that’s why I made them! Good luck with your project and I hope you are sewing soon!
That's what I was missing I need to zero it out. I knew I was missing something. I have been waiting for this video. Mine hasn't worked since I got it so I knew something was wrong I think I put it back together correctly thanks to your teardown provided it was correct. Although I might have messed up the disks but I think I already figured that part out. Thank you so much for these.
You are welcome!
Very helpful! My 1947 girl, Marjorie, wasn't holding the tension after I'd get it adjusted and get a good looking stitch. I finally took it apart - and it was filthy with a black greasy substance! But I couldn't get the set screw out so I could remove the stud. What substance can I use to loosen the screw? Should I use kerosene to clean inside the socket? I've wiped the parts as clean as I could with a soft cloth. After cleaning, I was still having the issue, so I've purchased new springs, but I want to know about cleaning first.
Hi! I typically use Kroil penetrating oil on stubborn screws. If you can’t get the screw out without damaging it then cleaning the stud in place is your best option. You should still be able to get the tension pin out of the stud, clean it and put it back. I clean all the metal parts that are not painted with something called Krud Kutter but you could also wipe them down with alcohol. Just keep chemicals away from anything painted like the machine itself and the painted dials for the tension assembly. You can wipe those down with oil to clean and then polish them up with carnauba wax. I use one by Zymol but there are other suitable brands out there as well. I hope that helps and let me know if you have other questions!
May I ask how I find your next video. I'm having trouble with my tension spring. It seems like it is catching on something and making a clicking sound.
Did you figure out the problem with your tension? If you are still stuck you can email me at jen@sewingmachinerehab.com and I will try to help!
Jen, the spring action against the stud in my tension assembly isn’t moving the stud forward and thus releasing the tension on the disks. I’ve tried changing the spring in the tension assembly. No luck. What can I do? Thanks Denise
Hi Denise! I haven’t forgotten about you! Email me at jen@sewingmachinerehab.com and let’s talk. I have some ideas but a lengthier explanation is required
I have 2 questions for you. I have reinstalled the tension unit (after cleaning, polishing etc) and zeroed it out. When I assess the tension with the dial on 3 I get a value between 20 and 25. When I slowly increase the dial reading to a larger number, the tension immediately goes to almost too difficult to pull the thread through - there is no gradual increase in tension. I have removed the assembly several times, recleaned, double checked that I am assembling and installing properly and it still behaves in this fashion. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be?
Question 2 is about the grease wicks. I would like to order the 3/16" cord from McMaster-Carr and am not sure if I should order the F1 or F3 cord (the only 2 choices they offer). Any input regarding which is more appropriate for the Featherweight?
I really appreciate your input, I am on my second Featherweight and have purchased a 301 to restore - you might say I am hooked on tinkering with these old machines! Thank you Ann
Hm, it could be that you need to replace the take up spring or the bee hive spring. I am not sure what the difference is between the F1 or F3 cord...could you elaborate?
Are all the singers done this way or just the featherweight?
Hi! I know that Singer had different recommendations on how many grams of tension at zero for some models. And the ones without numbered dials would make it impossible to do this step. But, in theory, if you know how many grams of tension you should have at zero you could do this on most of the older models. I hope that helps!
Should the tension spring pop back when the foot is lowered?
You should definitely see movement in the tension assembly when you raise and lower the presser foot. It should be adding pressure to the discs when you lower it and releasing the pressure when you raise it. Is that what you are seeing?
@@SewingMachineRehab very little movement and the pin doesn't fully return when the pressure is released. Great videos! I have been able to take my machine apart and put it back together. It runs but won't sew. It has a beautiful stitch in the top side but a birds nest on the the bottom. Today it just breaking thread. The upper and lower tension are calibrated with the scale from FWS.
Hope you can help. I was thinking about just ordering a new tension to see if that is the problem.
I was able to resolve my problem with the help of comments on Facebook. I installed the thread uptake lever incorrectly. Once I removed it and replaced it properly the problem resolved! Thank you for your thorough videos!
@@elizabethbrown4845 Sorry I didn't get back to you quickly but I am so glad you figured out the problem! I am glad you have some good resources, we can never have too many! I was going to ask if you had the positioning finger placed into the slot under the needle plate but it looks like it wasn't that at all. Great work on solving your problem!
When I raise my pressure foot it’s not bumping against the pin :’( i’ve took it apart and put it back to see if i just didn’t put the pin far in enough but when the pressure foot hits the pin the pin doesn’t bounce back.
Hi, there would be a couple things I would check: make sure the tension pin releasing lever is installed properly, check inside the hole on the tension stud where the pin slides and make sure there isn’t any gunk in it and then make sure the stud is all the way in the machine. If the stud isn’t in far enough the pin won’t be able to do its job. Let me know if any of those fix it!
@@SewingMachineRehab it worked! the releasing lever wasn’t installed right and wasn’t tight enough :D
@@sarahortiz8554 Great! You figured it out!
My spool pin spins around and is loose. How do you tighten or replace it?
Hi! You might try using a plastic hammer on the underside of the pin. The underside will look like a nail head and sometimes it can get bent making the spool pin wobble. The other option is to purchase a new cover from the Featherweight shop, here is the link: singer-featherweight.com/products/spool-pin-cover-plate/?aff=57 I hope that helps!
Thank you, I will try to hammer the pin carefully & if it doesn’t work I will purchase new plate.
Does the pin spring and felt cushion help with some of that play in the pin or is it only to keep the spool of thread more snug if the hole is larger?
Thanks for the easy to understand instructions for cleaning my 221featherweight machine
Hi again! I am not a fan of the spring, I think it gets stuck in the thread spool too much and it can be a little frustrating. The felt will help for sure and I love the thread stands that the Featherweight Shop sells. I think they all are good, I have the least expensive one they sell and I am very happy with it. Hope that helps! @@user-ln4rv4ey2i
I asked how to clean parts if you don’t have access to a sonic cleaner. What to do next??
@@user-ln4rv4ey2i Hi! Sorry if I missed your question before. I cleaned parts without an ultrasonic cleaner on many machines! I still recommend Krud Kutter if you can get it, out of everything I have tried it works the best and the fastest. Use a solution of water and Krud Kutter that is 50/50 each. You will need to scrub the parts a little more and you can also soak them for about 10 minutes or so. Even just agitating the solution (swirling it around) while the parts are in it will have a similar effect as the ultrasonic cleaner. Then rinse and dry really well. I can’t stress the drying enough. Don’t put any painted parts or things like the numbered tension dial and stitch regulator plate in the solution. You can rinse those with straight water and polish. I hope that helps!