Adjusting finishers and harvesting accepted cells.
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- Adjusting finishers is a really important part of your queen rearing process. you NEED to have open brood above the excluder to help attract the max number of nurse bees towards where your queen cells are awaiting to be finished.
I then go on to show you a typical queen cell harvest. This time it was day 2 because there was bad weather the previous day.
Your series of videos are the best what people can find on internet. Simplified, correct and easy to do. No wrong teaching, no secrets, no nothing bad. Sorry for my bad English. Wish you all the best in the future.
Another great video. Good , detailed, specific advice. Thank you Richard.
Richard
Your professionalism and light hearted comments make great sense well done 😎
Thank you Colin. Were all in this together, beekeeping should be fun!!!
I wonder if in my second year I shouldn't just make some two frame nucs put some open brood and nurse bees in them and give them a pollen Patty?. I don't really have the resources to do it the way you are but I have to expand my apiary.
I really want to do this but I just can't wrap my head around what to do with the queens that take and I don't need them right then. I'm god till the day before they hatch Do you just need a nuc for each for mating flights that is a lot of nucs
can that 'knocking' of the top cover be beneficial to the grafts?
Great info, I absolutely love seeing developing queens! Thanks for sharing.
Nice work! I'm using polynucs in a similar way. Your starter colonies are really strong, and I think that is the mistake I was making in not having them sufficiently crowded.
Phil Chandler thanks. Yes you need to get them so strong they just can’t all fit in the box!
i found the frames are different than others. It looks very easy to make.
Thx Richard
Great video very helpful
Nice video! You may want to keep the queen clip still when you hold it in front of the camera. That way we can get a better view of the queen. Thanks for educating us in how to raise more bees. Very helpful. I'm considering using the bubble insulation as an inner cover on my hive; but how does the hive vent without the hole in the center?
it dosent ventilate through the hole in the middle. Where we are in Europe snow never really blocks up the base entrance. We also have ventilated bases. Just try your bubble insulation. you will be surprised just how well it works as a cover. thanks.
Richard Noel
Will do. Thanks for responding.
very good explanation.....im slowing getting it. --thanks
Never noticed your feeder before,does it hold pollen frame and syrup feeder? Watch all ur videos but somehow I missed your feeder u got going on..Great As ALWAYS...
Hey, I dig your videos. Nothing much else, just a bit of encouragement.
thank you very much. hope your having a good season!!!
@@richardnoel3141 hi im wondering why you dont leave the queencell frame in the hopelessly queenless hive until its all capped instead of in finishers ?
How long do you wait until you put the queen cells in? Thanks for the great video.
if you mean grafts, i try and wait about a couple of hours after harvest. If you mean the started cells on top of the bees whilst i move them to the finishers, within an hour. thats all the time you need. good question. thanks.
Great videos, can you use your starter box as your finisher and what are the pros and cons to doing that?
Chris Hall yes you can. Have a look at my video called “The cell builder explained, questions and answers “
You videos are very informative. Thanks for posting . I have a question. What type of stain-paint do you use on your boxes? Thanks
I use a Ronseal woodstain. UK product. i dont know where your based bit its a great product.
Sure makes a good looking super.
Great video again Richard, do you use older queens in your finishers
Beast mode beekeeping. 👍
Great video like allways...can i ask wher you buy incubators?
I bought mine from UK Incubator Company called Banbury incubators, but i believe their changing what they sell a little and moving in another direction. you can buy a cheap incubator for about £140 which to be honest, for the price does a good job!.
@@richardnoel3141 thanks Richard
why not a third box on it or all in a segeberger whit 11 frames
Awesome!!!
What hives do you use and what size are your frames
Bear Pa hi, these are all Dadant frames are just bigger than Langsdroth
Why did you need to take those bars out of the frame couldn't you just put the whole frame with bars into the finisher.
Hi, yes your quite right. however I like to make sure every cell holder carries a viable cell, so that's why i transfer accepted cells and gap up any non accepted cells so i don't have the non accepted carried through the process.
No, you can't do that. A finisher won't handle 48 cells propper. If you just put the whole frame into one finisher, a couple cells will be discontinued and you end up with small cells. Best ammount of cell per finisher is about 7, if they are really strong and it is at least the 2nd series you can ramp 'em up to 10.
But don't start to go higher.
Kai Stümer no I disagree and am not arguing I can finish 14 cells per finisher perfectly! That’s why I distribute them on day 2 after grafting to strong finishers. If I reassemble the colony on day 5 after they are capped often I get forty cells! But that’s in the cell builder. You only have to
Look st my videos to see the proof! The evidence speaks for itself!
at 2:14, it looks like you have some queen cells at the lower portion of that frame
What we call play cups. No eggs or larvae in there because its been above the excluder for a while. 10 days i think. thanks for asking.
you squese a lot of bees that way i gess
M