Comeback that NEVER Left! OIL SPILL! Volkswagen Jetta 2.5
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2022
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Ray don't ever feel bad about calling out inferior products, it helps people like me who work on their own vehicles to know which (and why) to avoid them.
Anyone who puts an oil pan drain plug on that tight / cross threaded should be charged with vandalism.
They are purposely damaging the vehicle.
Anyone who produces shitty oil pans/plugs should be charged. It was so tight because it leaked. It probably was same chines crap shop bought for first time. And someone (probably owner) just keep tightening it
@@SmallKittyPaw yeah i agree. With how often the oil needs to be drained, youd think manufacturers would at least make the threads of the pan a tougher metal than aluminum..
People who go to quiklube places should lose their car and drivers license,
These places are known for fucking shit up.
They use the cheapest conventional oil, they will use it even if you pay extra for synthetic because you wont know
They use teeneages who dont know how many ugga duggas to use on a sump bolt which is in the milli uggadugga range.
They even cover up their mistakes.
remember seeing a video where a quik lube place did not add oil, engine seized, the customer took it back to the shop, they added oil then said, you have a "Warranty" problem.
When the engine was torn down, no oil in oil pump or oil filter.
I think VW wants you to replace the drain plug with a new one every time... I guess not everyone does that.
GM does it right. No crush washer, but an O ring with controlled compression designed into the bolt. What a concept!
Dorman spare parts - enough said
Dorman, the king of the do over! I found one of those Snap-on lamps on the frame of a truck and it was coated with mud, probably was there a few years cleaned it and it charged back up and I use it to this day.
Love them freebies
The fact that the bolt holes lined up was a miracle.
Seriously!
Dorman has let me down so often
@@jameslastname9171 I don't buy any Dorman parts for my Passat. Unless it says made in Germany and is a good brand I don't want it! I also don't care for universal fluids with the exception of windshield washer fluid. Motor oil is different, a good German brand like Liqui Moly is fine. This next thing I am about to mention is not a Volkswagen only thing. That would be coolant, do not mix coolant types!! If you must top off coolant to make it home and can't find the right stuff, use water only (distilled very much preferred). If you mix some other type with the stuff in there it can for a jelly like substance and clog your radiator, heater core, and even cause overheating!!
One other thing to watch out for is just because a coolant is the same color that doesn't guarantee it to be the same stuff!! For example both Toyota and Volkswagen have a pink coolant and they are both different even though they may look the same. That color is just a dye! They could just as easily make all coolants one color if they wanted to. It would be like the early days when there was just the green stuff we all may have seen before. I seriously doubt they would do a thing like that but that is all the color is, dye.
What is it with Volkswagen forcing mechanics to have a massive array of different tools to work on their cars?
Are they allergic to hex bolts and nuts over in Germany?
@@MonkeyJedi99 They are just different that way. You will find triple square bolts on them too. If you ever encounter those DO NOT just use a Torx, that is one thing that will leave you with a ton of problems with those bolts!! It is also bad enough some of them would be really hard to get to so you really don't want to ruin those bolt heads at all!
@@MonkeyJedi99 Could be that things like caliper brackets are made by VW but the calipers themselves are from a company like Brembo and they may have other ideas about what is good. Automated assembly by robots is also a factor, that's why Torx is so common now, they are well suited to that.
As a shade tree mechanic that does most things several times before I get it fixed it is a joy to watch a professional.
Hearing you mention evening out the torques when fitting the pan reminds me of a time I was with my wife and we were talking to a mechanic about getting some work done on her car. I watched one their guys putting a head back on an in-line 6 cyclinder engine and he just went "around the clock" with the rattle gun they use for the tyres. We left shortly after that and went to a different shop.
Did he rattlegunned it with all the torque of the gun and went back to assembling the rest of the engine or he just threaded it in? You can actually thread stuff in with little to no torque in the end even with one of these.
@@XStuntManiac Nah he went full hammer on it. I was surprised he didn't shear off a head bolt.
@@TheCaptainbeefylog Fair enough, I'd walk away too.
@@XStuntManiac broski don’t use any air or power tools for head bolts. Just ratchet then torque them per specs.
It’s not an ‘it might be alright’ scenario - it’s a classic risk vs reward scenario.
Almost every mechanic knows you torque down an engine head in the proper sequence in a two step process. About 40% torque, then repeat to full torque.
It ain't rocket science guys.
In this video we learn how to use brake clean.
Jokes aside. I learn a lot from your videos and also very entertaining. I laugh probably more than I should. Keep up the great work.
For Whom The Bell Tolls!Glad to hear the guys in the shop appreciate classic metal!
Overrated, overplayed Metallica.
@@RezaQin Most popular,largest selling metal band in history! Yeah they are overrated for sure! You are right and the other 125,000,000 people are wrong over the past 40+ years!
I didn't know Ernest Hemingway wrote for Metallica.
I was having tyres fitted once. The goon put the first tyre back on and gunned the lug nuts with an air wrench. I was across the floor at him at sonic speed. Told him to take the tyre off and give me a straight edge. Sure enough, two of the studs were necked.
They got to replace the studs at their expense and never went back.
I always get a nice tingley feeling when fitting OE parts.
It's like getting the right Xmas present from Santa
Once again another fine example of a Dorman product. I never had very good luck with Dorman aftermarket parts. I replaced an EVAP canister purge solenoid with a Dorman aftermarket part and it leaked right out of the box. However, they are very good about supplying a replacement part for the failed unit. You're just never sure if it will work or not.
Seeing an honest mechanic like yourself restores faith in me and proves that everyone is not always trying to rip me off. Thanks for all that you do and share with us.
Yep. That's why I do most things myself, and what I cant, I have a friend who's a mechanic
Love watching your videos Ray… And I’m an aircraft mechanic (A&P IA).
The Right Stuff sealant is the best I've found for such applications
OE parts are not typically made by the vehicle manufacturer, they are outsourced and a lot of aftermarket parts are made by that same manufacturer as the OE parts... So it's possible the oil pan was made by the same manufacturer as the original, the drain plug and crush washer was probably the issue as it reminds me of when someone reuses the crush washer over and over. Could have swapped out the plug and washer to see if that was the issue... But now you have the peace of mind of knowing it's a genuine VW part. AND that sealant? WTF? Permatex is the best! Great job Ray!
The right stuff, you can put back in service immediately. Permatex calls for 24 hour dry time. I have a large caulk tube of the right stuff, just leave a little out to try up when done, pull out the dried part and good to go for the next job.
I love the "Brake Clean" pause, it awesome. I also saw the cool tool you used to squish out the sealer. best price ebay, not amazon...love the detail!!!! As always, awesome video 🤙
I'm convinced, don't but Dorman parts.
Good morning Ray. Have a great day! Stay safe
The whimsical music when taking the pan off (second time) made me smile for some reason. Great video as always, for some reason at work we've been fighting Dorman QC a bunch, watched this on lunch break. That keeps happening, but like you and our master mechanic have both told me, things come in waves.
Most shops would’ve put sealer on plug and called it a day. Good for you Ray Ray 👍🏼👍🏼
Two of the things Granpop always said..... "Oil is cheaper than parts" and "It pays to buy the best cause the best is none too good".
Good old cross thread on the oil drain plug @Rainman Ray's Repairs
The video special effects are getting great. That second screen inset at speed was epic.
Not requiring a gasket reminded me of my 78' Goldwing. I overhauled the motor, actually I stripped the whole bike apart, and the block separates right down the middle. Both surfaces are milled and only requires their thin yellow sealant, which sets up like rubber. Never leaked a drop of oil.
Of course, it's a Honda
Whenever Ray says "Super-high-speef" I turn on X2 speed and let 'er fly!
Only the best, top -grade Chinesium parts! Well done...both times. 😁
i love the detail you put into doing your work. man I wish I had your skills.
Would have liked to have gotten a closer look at the plug, crush washer and drain hole to see what actually failed. I'd hate to think all that extra labor was done and more expensive pan was paid for when replacing a faulty crush washer would have fixed it.
Yes, but add a Taiwanese crush washer and it could have but done. Also permatex isn't as good as it used to be, especially from Walmart..
Ironically enough, if a VW drain plug was used, the crush washer is captured - it comes pre-installed on the drain plug and the washer is NOT removable unless you cut it off. Most VW dealerships replace the drain plugs on the 2.5 at every oil change - cheap insurance. Drain plug is supposed to be torqued to 30 nm if I remember right.
A crush washer isn’t gonna keep an impact driver from removing the bolt. Those threads were definitely fucked.
@@evilgtidriver on the new pan?
If he had to use an impact to remove the drain plug, I imagine whoever installed it last cross threaded it and impacted it in.
8:36 - You need **alignment pins** for re-mounting oil pans because trying to hold it in place without fouling your sealant and still lining it up with all of the holes seems like more of a pain that it needs to be.
If they don't make them, do it yourself with some 2" bolts of the appropriate thread. Snap off the heads, thread three of them into the oil pan upper just as you would with the alignment pins you would use for a wheel. That way you get the oil pan seated squarely, no screwing up the sealant. Once the bolts are set enough to hold the pan in place just take out the improvised alignment pins, replace with the proper bolts, and tighten down.
Voila - perfectly mounted lower pan.
They sell a gasket for the oil pan
10:02 When "For whom the bell tolls" starts playing, you know something bad is going to happen!
Glad that you are always on top of things Ray, I wish I had you as my mechanic, always do amazing work.
Of course, he’s documenting everything he does.
I can guess by the title, they're will be a LOT OF BRAKE CLEAN in this video!
Can't hardly wait!
When you were doing the sealant, I literally thought in my head, "Well, that's not Permatex" right before you said it. As always, love the content. Not a mechanic by trade but I'm a mechanic'
s son and watching your videos reminds me of the days I spent under cars with him (minus all the cursing and swearing). Those days are long gone but I still apply all the things he taught me to my own vehicles.
Cussin and swearing is what repairs the vehicle😂🤣🤣 oh yeah throwing tools also
Permatex is kinda mid to low tier in my honest opinion. Get some toyota fipg. You'll never go back.
@@willypalooza6519 or try the Mopar rtv, It has never failed me in 25 yrs!
@@willypalooza6519 hard to go against something that hasn't failed me in 30+ years and costs half as much as the Toyota stuff.
@@imfloridano5448 As frustrated as he would get, he never threw a tool. Probably the reason I treat every tool I have almost as good as my kids 🤣
YAY for the music with the brake cleaner! LIKED for that reason! :D
Pure meditation. Thanks bro. Appreciate all you do.
Ian from 🇬🇧 🏴
I never used black silicone for a oil pan just for that reason.
It's always been ultra gray sealer for the simple fact that black silicone takes at least 24 hours to fully cure.
Watched a few of your videos, I find them educational despite not owning any of the cars maintained. Love it.
1st question…
- What’s your opinion on magnetic oil plugs, good or bad?
2nd question…
- Why is there never(?) a drain plug on auto transmissions?
For Whom The Bell Tolls seems to be a fitting song while putting a Dorman oil pan on a Volkswagen.
so satisfying. its like the car is in a spa getting massages and getting ready to more years of service
One word.. PERMATEX second word.. INDIAN HEAD GASKET CEMENT for cork gaskets
I agree that aftermarket parts quality really fell of the cliff. I was used to buy aftermarket made in germany parts (I'm from europe) but the brands I used to like and use no longer can because I had so many failures that I lost count. Trying out some made in spain and turkey parts from now on.
A lot of recognized brand names get bought out by Chinese part-poopers sadly.
That oil filter housing along with all the other coolant hoses and o rings under the intake manifold are the best
*@**15:40*
To car owner-
That engine vanity cover will clean up to nearly new condition again,
by using the original white GUNK waterless hand cleaner.
Wipe on generously, let sit at least one hour, then wipe off with
absorbent paper towels only, do not add any water or other cleaners.
The lanolin residue will help to keep it clean, and moisturize the plastic.
It's also great for vinyl dashboards, door panels.
Hi from uk ray👋👍 great job on 2nd run mate not sure what went wrong it had the Chinese stamp of approval onnit🤣 I wish ppl wouldn't put us thru this and just get decent parts to start with it's better in long run 👍 good job tho 👌thanks for your time be safe and see you soon 👍👋
Chinese stamp of approval
😂😂😂. Good ole chap!
To align the oil pan without smearing the sealant, make some alignment pins by cutting off the head of a matching bolt about 2 inches long. Screw 2 of them in on opposite corners of the engine and then you can slide the oil pan over them in perfect position. Start some of the regular bolts and remove these.
I do the same ,works fantastic.cit the head of the bolt ,file a slot .oh yes sir
Nice trick..I'll steal it
Dang who has time for that on hourly rate job.
@@123andme Whoever doesn't have the time to do it twice after a comeback for leaks.
Thank you for showing the top of the drain pan. I wondered how you were throwing bolts in there and not losing them.
Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!
Draining the fresh engine oil out after the first go around may have seemed to be a waste, but at least the engine got a good flushing out.
Lol if you think thats a waste you would hate doing a semi oil pan. My coworker put a new plug in thinking the plug seal was leaking but the thread internet was leaking and i hade to drain 36 qts of brand new oil to replace the pan…
@@Shouk02 But you could have re-used the oil?
I have a 2005 Skoda which is just a cheaper version of a Volkswagen and I head a similar problem. Got a new oil pan installed at a dealership and it leaked from the drain plug.
At the dealership they told me they made a mistake during install. The oil pans come with a Aluminium washer under the drain plug but that is just some kind of transport protection device. Before filling the engine up with oil that washer needs to be replaced with a copper ring and they forgot to do that. Af the washer / ring was replaced the leak was gone.
I smell a strong flavour of BS from your dealership. Lots of cars use a soft aluminium washer on the drain plug, and why would the drain plug need protection during transport? If it's screwed into the sump then it's not going to get damaged. More likely they forgot to put any washer on.
@@ferrumignis I stood directly beside the shop manager / master mechanic when he replaced it. So I saw the washer swap with my own eyes. Could still be bs. Maybe they just forgot to give it the right torque and then he made something up.
Option B is the true option here. Not all parts are created/manufactured equally. Another reason to almost always use OEM parts. Another great video, Ray. Thanks
When you said "vintage torque wrench", I chuckled because I have the exact same one in my set.....
Ray, you are an excellent and caring mechanic who takes pride in his work. I wish there were more like you. BTW, in German, they pronounce Volkswagen "FolksVagen". "v" is pronounced like we pronounce "f" and "w" is pronounced like we pronounce "v".
Ray, you had me up and down on this one. First I was happy seeing that you were using a Valco Cincinnati tube squeezer and then I was down when you didn't use a nozzle on the RTV tube. Then I was shocked when I saw your shop had bought HARBOR FREIGHT RTV. The best RTV is Three Bond out of Japan. This is also available as Hondabond and Yamahabond and a bunch of other Japanese bond relabels as all Japanese cars use Three Bond. Another good one is Victor Reinz. The Permatex is good enough as well and I like the Right Stuff about the best of all the Permatex RTV's followed by the gray Ultra.
The genuine sealant he used on the oil pan was actually 3 bond ultra grey most of the vehicles on the road now use 3 bond as a chemical seal
if you use "The Right stuff" sealer on a pan like this,
cleaned properly,
you will hate life if you have to take it off again : )
Thanks for the tip about rebranded ThreeBond. I was wondering where to get it when I translated the Eunos Cosmo workshop manual as Mazda is quite fond of ThreeBond. Turns out it's made just outside of Cincinnati, Ohio. Also, thanks to M539 Restorations, I've heard nothing but great things about Reinzosil from Victor Reinz. Sreten swears by it and he's a legend in the BMW community.
The 2 cycle guys use yamahabond to seal their engine crankcases.
I liked the repeat because it showed the difference in the part and sealant. I hope this time was successful.
3 years ago my father passed away. Mom didn't want the Aussie-built 1996 Camry - worth $200 on the market but I knew my father's obsessive servicing. I took over ownership, bought and stripped 2 others. I've not had to use parts from the spares, I just service Dad's. 300,000 klms, no problems. Cosmetically not good paint and headling, but works as a daily driver. With a lack of semi-conductors, I could sell it for $3,.000. Not a chance. I'm 65 and this car will still be in my stable.
You did the job and customer right by replacing it but I wonder if some thread tape on the drain plug would of fixed the problem. Regardless it’s done right so the customer doesn’t have to bring it back
On a new pan like that I like to scuff up where the sealant is going, sometimes the paint finish does not allow the sealant to adhere well.
If its good sealant, thats not an issue
Had to pause the video at 19:03 when you pulled out the "vintage" SnapOn torque wrench. I actually have that exact wrench in my toolbox, purchased for me back when I was 16 by my father as a gift for my birthday. I still use it to this day when I work on my car, and it makes me think of him every time I use it.
thankyou Ray,,and a good day to you..👍👍
After 15 years in the vw audi trade , selling both oe and aftermarket parts , on parts designed to keep oil in place , ie oil pans and rocker covers, oe was the only way to go.
Chinese replacement parts … my wrench slinging hero . Always mate up to the previous part and check for correct tolerance according to OEM print if possible. Part stores and OEM knockoffs should be checked for overall quality .✌🏼🍻
China is your master now ....thanks to corrupt congress usa manuafacturing has been sold out like Judas
My favourite saying "buy cheep, buy twice"
i know you hate doing your job twice because of inferior parts we all do. but i like watching it.
I'm from the UK and I know as soon as you said Dorman trouble was in the offing. I've watched enough of your videos and read the comments and Dorman seem to be the equivalent of Bearmach parts for Land Rover here in the UK.
I work mainly on vintage British motorcycles an unfortunately due to prehistoric manufacturing processes I have to be an engineer, a fitter and a mechanic all at the same time. I think we can all feel the good vibe when you used the VW OEM sealant 😊
Oh man Dorman is so crappy, they really should be banned. I've never seen a good quality Dorman product ever.
@@therandomchannel2022 We have plenty of crappy parts here in the UK too. The trouble is the customers always want cheap. I can't say I blame them with the way things are but I refuse flatly to use anything other than known make parts or OEM for brakes, knuckle joints etc and clutches. The amount of stress with el cheap crap isn't worth the effort.
You mean Britpart.. Bearmach are good. I have worked on landrovers for years.
@@barney2633 Don't use either if it's a mechanical part. Bearmach hubs are rubbish. Had two fail within 6 months. I have worked on Land Rovers longer than I can remember.
URO, Shitpart, Eurospare are all on Dorman's level.
Febi, Meyle, etc are usually a step up but not always
Using a scotch brite pad on the pan sealing surface would help the sealant adhere to the pan.
The Scotch Brite scour pads work great for cleaning up silacone and leaving a good surface for sealant.
@ 6:19.... not even a flinch this man is steady 🤘
Am I the only one, that all but squeals with happiness, when he pops out the brake cleaner and the dramatic music hits? No...? Me neither. I was actually asking for a friend LOL
Another fun source of oil leaks is the vacuum pump at the end of the cylinder head. Costly too!
PS: The car alarm began sound just as you started the oil pan replacement process, during the sealant application. You didn't heed the warning.
Yeah, ended up deleting my vacuum pump.
Why would the naturally aspirated 2.5 gas have a vacuum pump in the 1st place?
@@Gromitdog1 You'd be surprised man. Volkswagen is known for cramming those things on every engine they can. My Mk4 1.8T has gone through 4 of em.
@@Gromitdog1 I think it's supposed to give more assistance and consistent feel to the brakes.
@@losi8ightyew Just thought to ask ... how many steering column locks have you changed? I fixed mine and one of my employees (not part of his pay scale; just 'cause I could.)
Trick: don't drill-out the security, break-away bolts. Use a punch and hammer to work loose.
This will continue to be a problem for those of us with older cars we want to keep running that don't have a huge aftermarket following. Decent cars in junk yards are drying up and many, many parts are NLA from the dealer. A lot of times you don't have much of an option but to roll the dice on an aftermarket part.
With German cars, aftermarket parts are generally fine -- you can buy most things from the very same company that made them for the German automaker. Usually going Dorman or URO is a choice, not a necessity. Almost always, really.
Surprisingly good resources for German cars. Especially for VW/Audi cars. FCP Euro and ECS Tuning are fantastic.
Surprisingly, OEM genuine VW from Jim Ellis in Atlanta is the way to go and cheaper than most other places.
@@brisiobrien1 Yeah, you never know. I never got any deals from my local VW dealer back in the day, but am now getting the "cool guy price" at a different dealer and its so close to aftermarket that it's hard to resist sometimes.
Thats correct!! Actions or material quality speak louder than words!!
I think it's about tome for another story hour with Ray!
At least engine is properly flushed now.
Anybody else notice that there appears to be debris attached to the oil pickup tube screen?
I was looking for this comment! exactly what I saw
I was more focused on the debris around the filler cap.
Yes! I kept asking "are you gonna clean out the oil pickup screen?"
@@jsswizard Gee, don't you want to see the "dealers only" repairs make their bogus $ for their bogus services? 🤡
Welcoming back!
My OCD is killing me. You left that pick-up tube screen dirty...twice! LOL
I don't understand the benefit of sealants over gaskets. It seems to me a well crafted gasket solves everyone's problems and establishes quality seal everytime.
UA-cam AMG engine assembly. Those engines are precisely sealed with sealant applied by robots. If its good enough for AMG, then its good enough for Volkswagon I guess.
Cost savings by manufacturer
@William Gilroy
Bean counters ruin everything. It's a cost saving measure for the mfrs.
they last a lot longer. When I did my oil pan at 155K due to excessive rust, it still was not leaking
My older Civic EX has an aluminum pan which requires RTV only, while the other model Civics had steel pans that used a gasket. I would have preferred the gasket, even an MLS.
Just ask Eric o about dorman parts lol
Waiting for the day Ray discovers Hondabond and begins to use it on all the things!
@James Last Name
Yep, the grey Hondabond is really good stuff and has been around since the late 1970s.
Something bout spreading sealant that just relaxes me !!
If the first replacement sump worked why increase costs and replace it again? The only issue I saw was the wrong crush washer used on the drain plug, use a thicker copper washer, not alloy, it would have saved a lot of time and work.
Yes that was my thought as well, strange decision.🤔🤔
What if it was the sealing surface on the pan that was bad? Then he would have wasted another batch of oil and another day the customer was without his car. Not worth it to take the risk again.
The original pan had the drain bolt cross threaded and the threads were all galled up. It was going to leak if Ray tried putting the drain bolt back into it. That being said, I would have tapped the drain plug out to the next highest size and put in a new drain plug.
@@hardluckvintagegarage6968 my question wasn't about the original sump pan.
@@mrfrenzy. it was leaking from the sump plug, a copper washer would have fixed that.
Curious about the Dormant oil pan leak, was it poorly cut threads, porous welds, or?
I’m betting it was the crush washer
It was a dorman.
Tappy tap to take the tough Oil pan out. Ray loves his job so much he did it twice. 😏. Did use warp speed to complete job.🙃
it's like watching Mr Wilson work, all you ever see is his eyes occasionally.
I recommend Scotch-Brite™ Roloc™ Gasket Removal Disc, TR, 3 in MED for surface prep then the brake clean and rag. Never had to redo.
I would have tried to find the fault of that drainplug seal, maybe there was just a metal shard from the machining process.. If all else fails, use a fibre washer.
Agree. The problem was ONLY the washer on the new pan! Ray ripped off the customer this time.
@@h2o100c You really think they charged customer twice? No way.
@@marioreali5925 I never said twice but it could have been double the cost for the OEM pan
@@h2o100c Could very well be much higher price but worth it I think.
A factory plug and gasket would have fixed this in a jiffy!
Another great video and thank you for the brake cleaner effects and segment 😂😂😂
I'd love to be able to see the work my mechanics do, for one it's very informative and two it would set aside any fears of being charged for either excessive or unnecessary work, cutting out the cowboy aspect of going to unknown shops etc. But, I understand it's time consuming to not only film every job but to edit and upload too so would be unfeasible for most garages, still a nice idea. I was just recommend your videos by the UA-cam algorithm god's, and subbed straight away, you make some excellent and informative videos, so hello from the UK 🤘
So did you do a post-mortem to find out what actually failed? Was it a bad pan surface, a bad drain plug gasket, or was the drain plug itself bad?
I was waiting for the autopsy too but as a former mechanic I would say the sump plug was cross threaded. On VW's (and most cars these days) you always fit a new sump plug and crush washer each time you change the oil.
Ray didn't check the brand new crush washer and pan for debris on the sealing surfaces.
@@MrPropanePete it seemed he had a problem removing the drain plug the 1st time so if he used the same one again then I would assume that is the culprit. Therefore, this issue could be operator error, sorry Ray.
The lesson learned, Ray, is buy cheap, buy twice... Well known by you and I but obviously not to the parts supply department.
Reminds me too much of an A4 I worked on I've got deja Vu. You've got much more patience than me for sure. Good job
Let’s all start a go fund me for brake cleaner for Ray! 😊
The engineer that designed that oil pan must have thought they were saying “more torx bolts” instead of “more cow bell”
VW engineers are on drugs
I was never a fan of "gasket in a tube," I would rather use a true gasket with a little "hi tack" and a dab of blue loctite on a couple of bolts to ensure it stays put.
Never had a job returned during my time working at the VW dealear, or anytime in my automotive career.
I use " INDIAN HEAD SHELLAC " NOTHING LEAKS WITH THAT STUFF.
@@NoWr2Run That's some old school stuff. When I was a kid just getting started with engines, I worked on 2 cycle Maytags and that stuff was all we used!!
@@losi8ightyew Yes Sir, That is " OLD SCHOOL ", My Dad used it & so I followed suit, LOL. It's a bugger too get off but IT DOES NOT LEAK.
I also us MOPAR BLACK SILICONE on some stuff, Neighbors a MOPAR Mechanic & gives it too me for free. That stuff never let me down either. The key is " THE SURFACE HAS TOO BE VERY CLEAN & FLAT ". Like when you're painting something, it has too be very clean.
Toyota sells one for sealing their oil pans that is better than Ultra Black. You have to drive a razor blade in around the edge to get that stuff loose.
Lol the minute I herd Dorman Eric O popped up in my mind calling it garbage and he wasn't lying!!
Welp, some of us like to not only do a job twice, but now a third time. Yep, after market parts are rough these days. I’ve put 2 wheel bearings on my drivers side and wouldn’t you know it, it’s failed again! This time it gonna be an oem one. Hey at least I’m a pro by now lol, great videos Ray, I love watching them 👍👍
After the second pan, I had to laugh. Thinking about my local H-D dealer. Went in to buy some high performance fork oil one day. Needed 2 bottles. None on the shelf. Owner checked his stock list and claimed he had 6 bottles. Could not find them anyplace. So, I asked when he was going to get more in. He said not until he sold what he has in stock. One of the mechanics told me later that they use it in the shop but can't account for it so his inventory will never be right. Damn fool would not reorder because the inventory said it was there. Wonder how long before your place misses the 5 quarts they can't account for and was never billed out. LOL
That equates to theft by the mechanics as they are taking shop stock and not using workshop stock. The mechanics should be liable for the oil that was taken.
@@johnt.848 Actually John, as it was explained to me, the fork oil came in bottles that were some number of ounces. Let's say 12 since I don't remember the exact number. The 12 ounce bottle had a part number. If they only needed 10 ounces, they would open a bottle, put in 10 and leave 2 in the bottle on the work bench. HD's billing system could not equate to using a fraction of a part number for a job so the option was to overcharge the customer for product not needed or just or just tell the boss to order more every now and then. It was a failed system, not theft. What would be the right thing to do in Ray's case? Bill the customer twice for the oil used? At least in the automotive industry they do bill by quarts, even if it all comes out of a 55 gallon drum.
You got a Dorman pan with a bad sealing washer, I've had it happen with parts directly from the dealership. Nice to see you tried a new .50 cent sealing washer instead of upselling a customer an overpriced dealer part that's the exact same quality. Secondly, that gasket your parts guy got you was for the lower pan after a quick search of the P/N and gaskets should always be used when available as opposed to RTV. I don't know what it is but I love some of your videos and other ones have me boggled, I bet your bosses love the revenue though!
as soon as i heard the bells i knew metallica's ride the lightning was going to play on the radio and it did...you can barely hear it but it is on the radio...i love working in the shop when hard rock music is on the radio.
The people you work for must really like you. If I had said I needed a better quality part and silicone they would fire me on the spot, and then get someone they like better than me to do the job exactly the way I said the job needed to be done in the first place.