Thank you! Editing has never been my strong suit so this video was refreshing to just push it out there with minimal editing. So happy it has been well received.
Very informative video, which deserves a lot more views! Perhaps it's on your channel, but if not, could you elaborate how you attach the volumes to your home walls? A larger volume can be quite heavy by itself, plus it needs to support your body weight... Which screws do you use? Thanks!
Thanks. When I build volumes I like to space the mounting screws at 6-8" apart, the bigger the volume, the more screws there are. The ideal screw would be a #9 construction screw but a #8 works too.
Thanks Climber Dad for following up on the questions! I really appreciate the insight! I have actually been doing a bit of updates and framing design on the climbing wall. I widened the whole frame slightly to accommodate extending the slab section to a full 6ft and (in the design) made it framed out to be an adjustable section so I can get that sort of moon board/kilter board functionality. I 100% agree about the angled sections too. Just trying to figure out the best methods for framing them is a nightmare! I may end up doing a 3x3 frame at the joints, braced with additional 2x4s or 2x6s. I do really love climbing the overhang sections at my home gym(s) so I do plan on keep it... BUT... As you mentioned, the 3 angle changes to tie back in to the slab section are a nightmare. I think I may adjust the design to maintain more of a "normal" angle, and then use as small of an area to adapt them out towards the corner. When I was designing this section, I was thinking about all the awesome climbs I've done at our gyms and wanting to try something like the outdoor boulders Rainbow Rocket or Captain Cutloose. Big overhang dynos basically. I'm 6'2", so not sure I can make volumes large enough to pull something like that off! I had also envisioned using the space behind the wall as storage for the holds/ladder/hardware/etc. Oh, and a place to store a battery or two for some solar charged power for lighting along the front upper support beam! I was eventually going to enclose the outside with siding similar to our house, and to reduce wear from the weather. Also, very glad to hear the crash pad is holding up! I do like that design, especially for the outdoor wall as it should be pretty weatherproof and sturdy! And also glad to hear the bed liner paint method is a win! Now the question is, do I go all black, or get some of the tinted colors for a cool design! Seems like a pain! But also all black in Texas summers might be a different kind of pain! Keep the great content coming!
Awesome info as always. I wanted to ask what the biggest differences between a home climbing wall and a commercial climbing wall are? Is it possible to use a series of home climbing walls to create a small climbing gym?
IMHO the biggest difference between a home wall and a commercial gym will come down to building and codes, safety also. For example, if you are going to open to the public you need to meet fire codes for your area that aren't a concern if it's just your house.
@@climberdad I see! That is good to know and keep in mind. I work as an architect and always think about building my own climbing walls, NFPA code and building codes per your area are definitely a consideration if you want to do anything commercial wise
6'Wx8'T is OK, but yeah 8'x8' is better. I set up my walls as a systems board first and then fill all the remaining bolt holds to make a spray wall. You mention a clearcoat over Latex. Like what? Polyurethane? I painted both my exterior walls with exterior Latex paint and had *massive* hold sticking even after letting the panels sit for months.
I used your freestanding design for my first climbing wall, which I built in an old apartment of mine! :) Thanks for that. I've since moved to a house with much more space, where I built a bigger adjustable 8x12 board (seen here: ua-cam.com/video/8irUoNvnZsA/v-deo.html). In retrospect I'd put more effort into the panels. One, I'd apply a heavier duty seal so they hold up better in PNW winters (my board's in a non-climate controlled garage). Two, I'd secure the panels with bolts rather than screws to simplify replacement. I'd also rethink the angle adjustment mechanism and try to make that easier-mine is mega solid (four independent equalized chains!), but because of that it takes a long time to adjust, so in practice I've left the board at 45° almost its whole life.
That's great to hear. The "lean-to" wall design is such a pain to adjust but it can be. I'm working on 2 different redesigns for that now. I'll check out your video.
@@climberdad Thanks! Yeah, it's very solid (4 independent chain anchors) but as a result is hard to adjust: you have to load it onto the winch, adjust the angle, then manually weight and re-equalize the anchors. I'm hoping to come up with a design that retains the stiffness but is easier to move. (Every one- or two-anchor suspended board I've climbed on wiggles a ton, which at 185lbs I really hate…)
Great video man. I think more than video editing, your knowledge and experience is the most valuable aspect of your channel.
Thank you! Editing has never been my strong suit so this video was refreshing to just push it out there with minimal editing. So happy it has been well received.
Very informative video, which deserves a lot more views! Perhaps it's on your channel, but if not, could you elaborate how you attach the volumes to your home walls? A larger volume can be quite heavy by itself, plus it needs to support your body weight... Which screws do you use? Thanks!
Thanks.
When I build volumes I like to space the mounting screws at 6-8" apart, the bigger the volume, the more screws there are. The ideal screw would be a #9 construction screw but a #8 works too.
Thanks Climber Dad for following up on the questions! I really appreciate the insight!
I have actually been doing a bit of updates and framing design on the climbing wall. I widened the whole frame slightly to accommodate extending the slab section to a full 6ft and (in the design) made it framed out to be an adjustable section so I can get that sort of moon board/kilter board functionality.
I 100% agree about the angled sections too. Just trying to figure out the best methods for framing them is a nightmare! I may end up doing a 3x3 frame at the joints, braced with additional 2x4s or 2x6s.
I do really love climbing the overhang sections at my home gym(s) so I do plan on keep it... BUT... As you mentioned, the 3 angle changes to tie back in to the slab section are a nightmare. I think I may adjust the design to maintain more of a "normal" angle, and then use as small of an area to adapt them out towards the corner. When I was designing this section, I was thinking about all the awesome climbs I've done at our gyms and wanting to try something like the outdoor boulders Rainbow Rocket or Captain Cutloose. Big overhang dynos basically. I'm 6'2", so not sure I can make volumes large enough to pull something like that off!
I had also envisioned using the space behind the wall as storage for the holds/ladder/hardware/etc. Oh, and a place to store a battery or two for some solar charged power for lighting along the front upper support beam! I was eventually going to enclose the outside with siding similar to our house, and to reduce wear from the weather.
Also, very glad to hear the crash pad is holding up! I do like that design, especially for the outdoor wall as it should be pretty weatherproof and sturdy!
And also glad to hear the bed liner paint method is a win! Now the question is, do I go all black, or get some of the tinted colors for a cool design! Seems like a pain! But also all black in Texas summers might be a different kind of pain!
Keep the great content coming!
Put some color on that sucker :)
Awesome info as always. I wanted to ask what the biggest differences between a home climbing wall and a commercial climbing wall are? Is it possible to use a series of home climbing walls to create a small climbing gym?
IMHO the biggest difference between a home wall and a commercial gym will come down to building and codes, safety also.
For example, if you are going to open to the public you need to meet fire codes for your area that aren't a concern if it's just your house.
@@climberdad I see! That is good to know and keep in mind. I work as an architect and always think about building my own climbing walls, NFPA code and building codes per your area are definitely a consideration if you want to do anything commercial wise
Just made a short for you too. Probably hasn't even uploaded yet :)
Love the volumes idea!
Thanks.
6'Wx8'T is OK, but yeah 8'x8' is better. I set up my walls as a systems board first and then fill all the remaining bolt holds to make a spray wall.
You mention a clearcoat over Latex. Like what? Polyurethane? I painted both my exterior walls with exterior Latex paint and had *massive* hold sticking even after letting the panels sit for months.
I used your freestanding design for my first climbing wall, which I built in an old apartment of mine! :) Thanks for that. I've since moved to a house with much more space, where I built a bigger adjustable 8x12 board (seen here: ua-cam.com/video/8irUoNvnZsA/v-deo.html). In retrospect I'd put more effort into the panels. One, I'd apply a heavier duty seal so they hold up better in PNW winters (my board's in a non-climate controlled garage). Two, I'd secure the panels with bolts rather than screws to simplify replacement. I'd also rethink the angle adjustment mechanism and try to make that easier-mine is mega solid (four independent equalized chains!), but because of that it takes a long time to adjust, so in practice I've left the board at 45° almost its whole life.
That's great to hear. The "lean-to" wall design is such a pain to adjust but it can be. I'm working on 2 different redesigns for that now.
I'll check out your video.
Nice wall Dan!
Anybody else reading this post go check out Dan's wall. Looks super solid.
@@climberdad Thanks! Yeah, it's very solid (4 independent chain anchors) but as a result is hard to adjust: you have to load it onto the winch, adjust the angle, then manually weight and re-equalize the anchors. I'm hoping to come up with a design that retains the stiffness but is easier to move. (Every one- or two-anchor suspended board I've climbed on wiggles a ton, which at 185lbs I really hate…)
And the lean-to was a great starting point. I really appreciated that in my little apartment back in quarantine times!