How to Flush Replace Mercedes ML350 W164 Radiator Coolant - ML300 ML320 GL320 GL350
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- Опубліковано 12 гру 2024
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In this video I demonstrate how to do a Total Radiator Coolant Flush on a Mercedes ML or GL Vehicle. This is not a complex procedure, so you should have no issues!
What you will see is that I step by step show you how to do this procedure safely with minimal tools. In particular I have attempted to film all of the steps involved without avoiding the trickier elements of this task.
Consumables Used:
Nulon Radiator Flush & Clear
De-Mineralised Water (for Flush and Mixing with Coolant Concentrate)
MB 325.0 Coolant Concentrate (5L)
Tools Used:
1/2M Hose (8mm Internal Diameter)
Flat Head Screwdriver
16mm Socket
Specifically in this video I am demonstrating this using my 2011 Mercedes ML300.
This video is actually part of a complete series of videos that I am doing (named "Front to Back"), where I am replacing every single fluid in this vehicle. Checkout the complete playlist here: • Front to Back Complete...
You too can do it yourself and save the cash!!
Cheers Drew, just done this one. That 8mm hose to drain the coolant is a game changer, every coolant flush I've done in the past has been so messy but this was a doddle.
Thanks for the support mate! Cheers Drew
Thanks 🙏 Great video, you explained everything really well ie why the AC has to be running, why you are squeezing the air-coolant hose etc.
Hi Mate, thanks for the feedback! Cheers Drew
Thoroughly done!
Thank you for this
Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers Drew
Really helpful videos, do you know if the MB spec coolant is required for the bluetec diesel engine as well?
Hi Mate, yes the MB Spec coolant is required for Bluetec Diesel engines! Cheers Drew
Great video, thanks for the info
The colour of coolant doesn't seem to matter as much anymore - so it seems. I have red coolant by Nulon that is spec'd to M326.3 - which covers nearly every Mercedes engine.
Man, thanks for all this
No problems mate! Cheers Drew
Great video. Thanks
Thanks, I'm glad it was useful!! Cheers Drew
The WIS states to use a vacuum fluid exchanger. Search Amazon for "coolant vacuum refill kit" and a bunch will show up from $28 to $94, so no need to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars to get a factory machine. I have the OEM brand kit and it works quite well to eliminate any air in the cooling system. You will also need an air compressor. Some people will ask why they should spend $200 to $300 to change their coolant. Well, how much will it cost to fix or replace a cylinder head when there is an air pocket and you warp the head? People will say that they've always "done it this way" and never had a problem. Well, so have I but Mercedes are different enough to make me want to follow the shop procedures.
Hi Mate, if you have a look at a recent video I did on swapping the thermostat
ua-cam.com/video/zLN9AvHwRy4/v-deo.html you will see that there is actually a one way jiggler valve to release air in the system. Given that the thermostat is on top of the engine I suggest that the engineers have designed the cooling system to purge the air and if you do as I demonstrated there will be no issues. Thanks for people have a vacuum setup then by all means use it as it will save time! Cheers Drew
Very good video,i have a question,
i own ml 320,before 1 month i went to MB service to flush and fill with new one,but today i get message to comp."Top coolant",i open and there was on min.down,so i went again to MB service ,he put on the pressure but cant see the leaks?!
The coolant liquid is bright clear.
Question is how or where can it go coolant ?
Thank you in advance
Hi Pere, did you go to Mercedes dealership for this work? Cheers Drew
Some of the questions asked in the comments indicate to me that those people should leave it alone and pay a mechanic to do it.
How many liters of coolant did you end up pouring in? I feel like I've poured in too little (under 5 liters) but I'm already at the fill line.
Hi Mate, I think from memory full capacity is up around 8 or 9 litres. I would suggest either you didn’t get it all out or you have air in the system which will bleed out when you start your engine and then top up with more coolant. Good luck. Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt Thanks, Drew! I've taken the vehicle for a few hours of driving already so I might've not gotten everything out. I drained until no liquids came out about 5 times so I'm kind of lost aside from just draining again to see what happens.
Have been in the habit of filling the radiator on my Subaru (2.0TD) with Redline's Water Wetter and adding demin water only i.e. no coolant. Have been pondering the same approach with my 2010 MB ML350 CDI. Any thoughts Drew?
Hi Arron, I have no experience with Redline's Water Wetter. I have two questions; 1/ does it meet Mercedes Specification MB 325.0 2/ It appears like it is simply for heat transfer and does not have any anti-freeze properties, if this is the case I would be concerned that I couldn't suddenly jump in the car and had across to the snow for a ski trip easily. Also, I have never had any trouble with the temperature being too high with my Mercedes if anything mine was running too cool, so I recently swapped in a new Thermostat so it would run warmer ... check out the video here: ua-cam.com/video/zLN9AvHwRy4/v-deo.html Thus I personally wouldn't use this. Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt Hi Drew, No, WW does meet MB Spec 325.02 and does not contain any anto freeze properties. Snow is not a huge concern in WA, as you can appreciate. I'll check out the thermostat video.
Are we supposed to use new coolant? Ir reuse old coolant that we drained?
Yes - the purpose is to replace the old coolant with new coolant! Cheers Drew
Can I do this on 2010 c300?
Yes mate! Cheers Drew
I got ML550 2010. Can i top off with pink coolant from canadian tire or have to use the OEM blue coolant? What are the specs of blue coolant? If i mix both? Any thing would happen?
Hi John, you shouldn’t mix different coolants. The blue coolant is MB 325.0 specification. Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt thanks Mate. Is MB325.00 is for ML550 as well?
I have a Mercedes w221 and I think my heater core is clogged any tips on how to get it unclogged
Hi Mate, what makes you think that your heater core is clogged? Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt I have checked the coolant level and it’s perfect. I ran a Mercedes star scan and it said that the heater core may be closed. I am trying to locate the 2 pipes to the heater core. The inlet/outlet pipes to the heater core
@@clabruno So the first thing I would do is locate the heater core hoses. On my vehicle they are on the passenger side (noting my car is RHD) of the engine bay going through the firewall. Get yourself a digital thermometer (something like: amzn.to/3H3geDA) and measure the temp of both hoses with the engine hot and the heater running. The temperature of both the inlet and return hoses should be the same, if it is different then yes your Hecate core is blocked. If it is blocked I would personally disconnect the hoses and try to clear the blockage with a garden hose first! Cheers Drew
@@DrewFixIt awesome.. I have no heat in the cabin at all. Only cold air blows through the vents with the heat option on.
Did a flush of my heater core and it seemed okay. I am not going to use a coolant system. We shall see if this fixes my issue
Does hose size (8mm) measure from inside or outside?
Hi Ed, that would be “internal” diameter! Cheers Drew
How did you get the cover for the radiator bleed valve off?
Hi Steve, I am not sure exactly what your question is referring to. Are you talking about the valve with the red head? If so, there was no additional cover on it. Cheers Drew
I’m in the process of flushing my coolant as well.
The coolant has stopped dripping from the plug at the bottom but there’s still about quarter coolant in the reservoir. Is that normal?
Hi Mate, my guess is that is trapped with the thermostat being closed. Just close the plug, refill bleed and repeat again till clear mate!! Cheers Drew
How do you open the thermostat?
@@justanotherhuman1865 fill it up with coolant and start the engine mate! Cheers Drew
Hello, when I connect my hose and unscrew the valve, the coolant comes out directly below the nipple. Do you know why this might be happening? My hose is not super snug, but I still don't see why the coolant would drip out from below both the valve and nipple, where the coolant path ends at the lowest point.
If your screw valve is rusted or was cross threaded, you might have the issues you are referring to.
I know it's been a year but to anyone else, the valve could be clogged. Try to stick a (blunt) pick or something in there to loosen the debris that is clogging it.