I have been checking out videos recently about developing film at home and this video definitely help out a lot and it was film great with great lighting. Thanks
Hint: Fill a gallon jug (or two) with water and let it sit and stabilize at room temperature overnight. Next day, before you mix up your chemicals, check the temperature of the water and use the technical data on Ilford's website to see if you need to develop it a little longer or shorter than the recommended time at 68 degrees (cooler than 68 requires more developing time, warmer than 68 requires less). I use this room-temperature water for my pre-wash, for my developer, for my water stop bath and for my fixer. Whatever is left gets me started on my wash.
Thanks for making this. I am new to photography and have been saving my rolls not knowing what to do next with them. You gave the best tutorial on how to develop black and white film. I have watched other videos and felt less confident about doing this until I saw your upload. you took me step by step and showed me that anyone can do this with some practice basic knowledge, and patience. I look forward to seeing more videos of film development from you thanks again for sharing.
I'm taking a black and white photography class right now and by watching this video I'm hopeful that I can continue using this process. You broke the steps down well and I just overall enjoyed watching!
I haven't seen an "Anscomatic" since around 1950, when they were one of the better made plastic reel tanks. Its primary limitation is that, like other tanks of the type from that era, it does seal water tight, so you cannot agitate by inversion. You spin the reel with the rod insert, Paterson style. At the time, I used a "Yankee", its cheaper, less well-made cousin. About 1960, I moved up to a Nikor steel tank, which I still prefer. I always thought Paterson tanks were overpriced for the quality (or lack thereof) you get. However, if you consider inflation, my $5 Yankee in 1958 cost about as much as a $30 Paterson today.
Thank you so much for this video! I do film photography, and getting it developed is getting SO expensive (not to mention it's not as much fun lol). I remember a little from my high school class, but not nearly enough to do it myself. This was very helpful!!
@@StefanoGabelli This site gives time and temp combinations for developing various film brands in many different developers. Much of the data given is taken straight from the makers of the film or developer, but many combinations are picked up from a variety of private sources who may not be reliable, Also, there are a number of just plain mistakes. The site gets all of its data from others and does not test or verify accuracy itself, and it does disclaim otherwise. So, you should first check the film or developer maker's instructions or website for tested time/temp combos before running first to this website, or you may be sorry.
One thing I noticed is that you did it on a small bathroom similar to mine so now I know that I can also do this with the limited space I have. I wonder if it will be the same for C-41. Or 120 film as I shoot both 120 and 35mm (and soon 4x5) but I send them out for processing. Unfortunately, I find it too expensive to do that all the time. My biggest worry may be the water temperature. Will the temperature vary quickly depending on the air temperature? I guess I just have to work quickly? Thanks again.
Some people are intimidated by C-41, and I was too, but once I tried it I realized it isn't as hard as it sounds. In some ways I think it is simpler than black and white (you reuse the chemicals for 10 or more rolls so you usually have everything premixed) and in some ways harder (it is normally developed at 102 degrees). However, if you can develop your own black and white, you can definitely do color. That goes for both the skill involved, and the space needed. You really don't need much space at all! Regarding the temperature required (102 Fahrenheit) and maintaining said temperature... it's not bad. The developing time for C41 is normally only around 3 minutes or so, so there isn't much time for it to cool enough to negatively affect your development. Let me know if you have any other questions, and I will try to do a tutorial soon.
1. Best idea when loading tank is NOT to take film all off spool as shown but keep it attached until it reaches end THEN cut off spool from tape. 2. Should have tank over sink, not on the rag, and TILT it as you pour in Developer then air displaces easier and Developer goes in quicker. 3. You should have had the FIXER READY diluted ! No wonder your negs look a bit over-developed as you did not use an acid Stop Bath 4. Could have told viewers about using some wetting agent OR One Drop of Washing Up liquid in final wash. other than that a good tutorial with not too many hesitations. ( Sorry your Film TOUCHED in the Stainless Tank !! -- Now you know why I use a Paterson PLASTIC one -- and it is BRITISH -MADE ! )
Thanks for the suggestions! I normally do have my fixer ready to go, but since I was filming this tutorial I had to work in a more linear fashion which didn't allow me a chance to mix up my fixer while the film was developing like I normally do. I also do quickly mention Photo Flo wetting agent, and it is discussed in greater detail in the show notes which is linked in the video description. Thanks for watching!
Nice video. Rinse water temperature after developer and after fixer should be between 68 - 75 degrees F. Colder than 65 much decreases the efficiency of the wash, requiring much more time/wash. Higher than 75 may damage your film emulsion.
Manythanks. Great instructional video.
Thank you appreciate you video. Quick and simple
perfect! you did help me a lot!
Nice tutorial! Easy to follow and well thought out.
I have been checking out videos recently about developing film at home and this video definitely help out a lot and it was film great with great lighting. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Hint: Fill a gallon jug (or two) with water and let it sit and stabilize at room temperature overnight. Next day, before you mix up your chemicals, check the temperature of the water and use the technical data on Ilford's website to see if you need to develop it a little longer or shorter than the recommended time at 68 degrees (cooler than 68 requires more developing time, warmer than 68 requires less). I use this room-temperature water for my pre-wash, for my developer, for my water stop bath and for my fixer. Whatever is left gets me started on my wash.
Thanks for making this. I am new to photography and have been saving my rolls not knowing what to do next with them. You gave the best tutorial on how to develop black and white film. I have watched other videos and felt less confident about doing this until I saw your upload. you took me step by step and showed me that anyone can do this with some practice basic knowledge, and patience. I look forward to seeing more videos of film development from you thanks again for sharing.
I'm taking a black and white photography class right now and by watching this video I'm hopeful that I can continue using this process. You broke the steps down well and I just overall enjoyed watching!
Thank you so much gorgeous .. Tomorrow I have an exam about Photography. I really got much benefits
I haven't seen an "Anscomatic" since around 1950, when they were one of the better made plastic reel tanks. Its primary limitation is that, like other tanks of the type from that era, it does seal water tight, so you cannot agitate by inversion. You spin the reel with the rod insert, Paterson style. At the time, I used a "Yankee", its cheaper, less well-made cousin. About 1960, I moved up to a Nikor steel tank, which I still prefer. I always thought Paterson tanks were overpriced for the quality (or lack thereof) you get. However, if you consider inflation, my $5 Yankee in 1958 cost about as much as a $30 Paterson today.
thank u its a difficult process
This was a great video just starting out developing film really helped thanks! Could you do a video on developing colour film if you know? Thank you!!
Thanks man! super handy video!
Awesome guide! Super easy to follow! :)
Thanks for the video!! Great tutorial :D
Thank you so much for this video! I do film photography, and getting it developed is getting SO expensive (not to mention it's not as much fun lol). I remember a little from my high school class, but not nearly enough to do it myself. This was very helpful!!
Thanks for the video! Anything for C-41?
I have done C-41 before, so I could do a C-41 tutorial for sure. I am out of chemicals for C-41 but I could get some more and do a tutorial soon!
Thanks!
Short, sweet, and to the point, and the whimsical music.. lol.
I'd like to have seen some of the developed photos from that roll, though.
Will this same process work with Kodak Tri-X 400? Using same chemicals? Just different times? I am gonna attempt this tonight.
Yes, you just need to find the correct developing time for your particular combination of film+developer+temperature
Chris Bilodeau this site can help you www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
@@StefanoGabelli This site gives time and temp combinations for developing various film brands in many different developers. Much of the data given is taken straight from the makers of the film or developer, but many combinations are picked up from a variety of private sources who may not be reliable, Also, there are a number of just plain mistakes. The site gets all of its data from others and does not test or verify accuracy itself, and it does disclaim otherwise. So, you should first check the film or developer maker's instructions or website for tested time/temp combos before running first to this website, or you may be sorry.
One thing I noticed is that you did it on a small bathroom similar to mine so now I know that I can also do this with the limited space I have. I wonder if it will be the same for C-41. Or 120 film as I shoot both 120 and 35mm (and soon 4x5) but I send them out for processing. Unfortunately, I find it too expensive to do that all the time.
My biggest worry may be the water temperature. Will the temperature vary quickly depending on the air temperature? I guess I just have to work quickly?
Thanks again.
Some people are intimidated by C-41, and I was too, but once I tried it I realized it isn't as hard as it sounds. In some ways I think it is simpler than black and white (you reuse the chemicals for 10 or more rolls so you usually have everything premixed) and in some ways harder (it is normally developed at 102 degrees). However, if you can develop your own black and white, you can definitely do color. That goes for both the skill involved, and the space needed. You really don't need much space at all!
Regarding the temperature required (102 Fahrenheit) and maintaining said temperature... it's not bad. The developing time for C41 is normally only around 3 minutes or so, so there isn't much time for it to cool enough to negatively affect your development.
Let me know if you have any other questions, and I will try to do a tutorial soon.
LOL! I see that you also went to Walmart and found some ultra-cheap plastic containers for the fixer. I have that exact same plastic bottle type.
1. Best idea when loading tank is NOT to take film all off spool as shown but keep it attached until it reaches end THEN cut off spool from tape.
2. Should have tank over sink, not on the rag, and TILT it as you pour in Developer then air displaces easier and Developer goes in quicker.
3. You should have had the FIXER READY diluted ! No wonder your negs look a bit over-developed as you did not use an acid Stop Bath
4. Could have told viewers about using some wetting agent OR One Drop of Washing Up liquid in final wash.
other than that a good tutorial with not too many hesitations. ( Sorry your Film TOUCHED in the Stainless Tank !! -- Now you know why I use a Paterson PLASTIC one -- and it is BRITISH -MADE ! )
Thanks for the suggestions! I normally do have my fixer ready to go, but since I was filming this tutorial I had to work in a more linear fashion which didn't allow me a chance to mix up my fixer while the film was developing like I normally do.
I also do quickly mention Photo Flo wetting agent, and it is discussed in greater detail in the show notes which is linked in the video description.
Thanks for watching!
Th British stand of excellence? Patterson - mostly plastic junky stuff, but Hewes steel reels - none better, but "expensive".
Water temperature for the rinse is not important?
The rinse temperature isn't important. Just some cool water near room temperature is fine.
Camera Clubhouse How do you print them?
Nice video. Rinse water temperature after developer and after fixer should be between 68 - 75 degrees F. Colder than 65 much decreases the efficiency of the wash, requiring much more time/wash. Higher than 75 may damage your film emulsion.
how many rolls of film does the bottles of chemicals usually last?
please what the chemical you use in print process thanks
Dumb question but can I use the Illford developer/ chemicals on Kodak TX 400 (b/w) film?
Sure
Really nice tutorial but… what a waste of water! for sure there are better methods to set water at a given temperature.