Isn't it wonderful what yearly maintenance will do for a motor. 32 years of use, Cool. On those flatheads it always seems interesting that the more hours they have the closer the valve lash is, opposite than on overhead valve eh!!! I really like doing those little valve grind jobs.
Good work King ! Glad there were no broken parts .. Looks like that intake spring was fighting for room to move in there , That gap was way tight .. Thumbs up ..
glad your showing this project. im working on a old 60s Homko tiller with a 4hp briggs that im gonna have to do the same valve job on. i got a few newer 190cc briggs that i could swap but im trying to keep this tiller factory.
Thanks for the look on the Exhaust Valve spring, im doing my first valve job on a 20horse briggs, i had the Intake valves out and was looking how to remove the Exhaust. Thank you.
Nice valve work - glad the valve chamber, springs, and valves are OK. Looked in my '84 B&S red book, and did not find anything about a T in valve heads. Maybe a manufacturer's ID. After compressing the spring, I have had good results using a small magnetized screw driver tip to remove/replace the keepers. Looking forward to your next update!
Roadking, I have used a small magnet (like a pocket telescoping antenna type) near the valve keepers when taking the valves out... compress the spring and tap the valve and the keepers pop out and stick to the magnet..works like a charm.
My older 2 valve spring tools that I ordered in the Early 80's had the Briggs stamp on them. The one I ordered from Briggs 2 years ago did not have it stamped on there ~!~!
at 17:39 you mention the collar at the exhaust valve...its actually a spinner washer that makes the valve spin during operation so that it doesnt burn the exhaust valve and seat. prevents carbon buildup as hot gases leave the combustion chamber.
Couple of observations. You can use small pieces of rubber hose over your needle nose jaws to make soft jaws for clamping off fuel lines. Little trick I learned from working on cars. You can also use those little magnet wands to quickly take those valve spring keepers out. Works to help put them in as well. Another trick I learned from working on cars...LoL. Looks to me like you might have had a small leak in that valve cover gasket. So tearing it was actually a good thing. Also looks as if the head gasket was leaking near the valves as well. Unless the dark areas going out the right side of the head was because of the lighting. It looks as if the intake valve keeper was either put in wrong, or had rotated in such a way as to drop into an unlocked position. As if it was halfway taken out. Don't know why they didn't just put keepers in there like the exhaust valve keepers. I can't get a diagram or clear exploded view of how they are suppose to go together. So I can't help you there.
Hey, Charlie, engines with and without the mechanism for reduced compression start, are adjusted the same way. Thanks for sharing RK, I would have guessed coil or flywheel first. Good work!!
I wish I had that spring compressor right now. I'm going to try to use a couple of zip ties to compress the valve spring on my 3.5 HP mower after adjusting the intake valve. Thanks Roadking.
I always use a magnet to pull the valve keepers out when I rebuild cylinder heads on cars. Hope this helps in the future if you ever have to work on these types of valves in the future.
Intake valve retainer is damaged, inspect closely and valve stem as well. Check B&S manual for proper piston position for checking clearances before grinding valves. Love the vids, Jack
Man the part ive been searching eveywhere for and was looking like you we're going to do the whole thing on camera was removing those two little pieces outside of the retainer for that exhaust valve but your hand was in the way when you got the second one and you took out the first one off camera! 😮😢😢😢😭😭
When you put it back together, put the exhaust retainer cap on the spring before you compress it and put the compressor over that cap and you will have no trouble with the coletts. cheers.
Hey raodking how ya doin. When you were talking about the valve keepers they are similar to a briggs model h i took apart this evening and this is from the 20s or 30s
Could half of the valve retainer collet have fallen out, allowing the valve retainer to oblong itself against the valve.... Which caused the spring to sit "wonky"?
you said something doesn't look right it's because the intake valve spring is out of position ,, it's probably been that way for a while too the exhauste valve is different ,, it has a valve rotator , and a 2 piece retainer instead of the snap clip on the intake
i skipped through this time, engine can run GREAT with no valve clearance, it gives it more lift off the cam! the gap is for starting, especially cold starts. i have a gy6 50cc engine, i set the gaps to 1 -1/1 thou on intake and 2 thou on exhst ran great but, very very hard start in the cold (4k and 5k recomnded). YMMV!!! they say the gap gets smaller when it warms up but, depends on the engine design and metals used, i've seen the gap get bigger when warmed up too!!!
you can have problems with burnt valves if the valve clearance is too small. If the valve cannot close properly, it can overheat due to the fact that it does not get any cooling when it does not make contact with the valve seat
Brad Downs titanum???? What do you mean? I don't own or have taken apart a Briggs and Stratton from the 80s I have one from the 30 but it is all cast iron
BOB White the engine blocks cast iron. I don't know of any valves or seats made of cast iron. the valves themselves are made of different materials there were some valves made with sodium filled centers decades ago. but the valve you have there I'm pretty sure the T designates a titanium valve.
Brad Downs so wait the one from the 30s probably has a titanium valves? I don't know how they make valves and in fact never thought about it till now. What about the real early hit n misses what do you think those valves were made of?
BOB White the 30's and before and hit and miss engines I have not worked on but from what I have read the hit and miss engines could have sodium filled or hardened steel valves. if the stem seems unusually large diameter it is a sodium filled valve if not probably just hardened steel.
there are very few times in all the repairs that I have done where I take the head off and the gasket is ok also you should consider rehoning the cylinder wall it gives you better performance and higher compression
Ddymnm, right, but not because of larger displacement, but rather because of inadequate ring gap. You can do a light hone, but the rings remain the same. Once you hone, you have to get one of those ring kits that allow you to snap the gap (they look like a key chain ring) to your spec ID. I've done it 4 times in a row on my mower (a kubota) and only on the 4th have i started to feel the difference, at that point, you're on to worse issues anyways.
ford king if the cross hatch is gone she's tired. I'd be real particular for checking the whole intake tract for dirt ingestion, can't think how many engines I've seen whooped out from dirt ingestion.
It was too late!! It took a shit about 7:30 PM, by the time we figure we hate to take it apart it was way too dark out to fuck with it!! We gave it a bath after we put it back together and had it running!! you can't worry about that shit with a field repair!!☺
great stuff! Time flies while watching your videos - the dog is desperate for a walk but she had to wait! That inlet valve spring was very strange! Looked like it too should have had a 'rotator' to keep it straight but it obviously couldn't of just vanished...
![Carburetor Replacement - 10hp Briggs & Stratton [PART 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BFUvivy1bIs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Isn't it wonderful what yearly maintenance will do for a motor. 32 years of use, Cool. On those flatheads it always seems interesting that the more hours they have the closer the valve lash is, opposite than on overhead valve eh!!! I really like doing those little valve grind jobs.
Yeah Buddy!!☺
Good work King ! Glad there were no broken parts .. Looks like that intake spring was fighting for room to move in there , That gap was way tight .. Thumbs up ..
Thanks Mate!!☺
glad your showing this project. im working on a old 60s Homko tiller with a 4hp briggs that im gonna have to do the same valve job on. i got a few newer 190cc briggs that i could swap but im trying to keep this tiller factory.
Thanks for the look on the Exhaust Valve spring, im doing my first valve job on a 20horse briggs, i had the Intake valves out and was looking how to remove the Exhaust. Thank you.
Nice valve work - glad the valve chamber, springs, and valves are OK. Looked in my '84 B&S red book, and did not find anything about a T in valve heads. Maybe a manufacturer's ID. After compressing the spring, I have had good results using a small magnetized screw driver tip to remove/replace the keepers. Looking forward to your next update!
Thanks alot Steve!! I have that Red Book, plus the White one that preceded it, probably from the 70's!!☺
Nice job I bet it runs like new when you get done. A magnet works good to get those keepers out.
Thanks MJ!! Yeah I used a magnetized screwdriver to put them back in, that worked real good!!☺
Roadking, I have used a small magnet (like a pocket telescoping antenna type) near the valve keepers when taking the valves out... compress the spring and tap the valve and the keepers pop out and stick to the magnet..works like a charm.
Thanks Bud!!☺
Those cordless drills are the cats meow, I haven't touched my hack saw since I got a cordless saws all, . Thanks for bringing us along
Thanks for watching Bob!!☺
My older 2 valve spring tools that I ordered in the Early 80's had the Briggs stamp on them.
The one I ordered from Briggs 2 years ago did not have it stamped on there ~!~!
at 17:39 you mention the collar at the exhaust valve...its actually a spinner washer that makes the valve spin during operation so that it doesnt burn the exhaust valve and seat. prevents carbon buildup as hot gases leave the combustion chamber.
Couple of observations.
You can use small pieces of rubber hose over your needle nose jaws to make soft jaws for clamping off fuel lines. Little trick I learned from working on cars.
You can also use those little magnet wands to quickly take those valve spring keepers out. Works to help put them in as well. Another trick I learned from working on cars...LoL.
Looks to me like you might have had a small leak in that valve cover gasket. So tearing it was actually a good thing. Also looks as if the head gasket was leaking near the valves as well. Unless the dark areas going out the right side of the head was because of the lighting.
It looks as if the intake valve keeper was either put in wrong, or had rotated in such a way as to drop into an unlocked position. As if it was halfway taken out. Don't know why they didn't just put keepers in there like the exhaust valve keepers. I can't get a diagram or clear exploded view of how they are suppose to go together. So I can't help you there.
Yeah, I replaced the head gasket last year, that's what you were seeing!!☺
Hey, Charlie, engines with and without the mechanism for reduced compression start, are adjusted the same way. Thanks for sharing RK, I would have guessed coil or flywheel first. Good work!!
Thanks Cookie!! We were hoping for the easy fix!!☺
I wish I had that spring compressor right now. I'm going to try to use a couple of zip ties to compress the valve spring on my 3.5 HP mower after adjusting the intake valve. Thanks Roadking.
Pretty clever idea!! Good luck!!☺
I always use a magnet to pull the valve keepers out when I rebuild cylinder heads on cars. Hope this helps in the future if you ever have to work on these types of valves in the future.
Thanks Bud!! Yeah I used a magnetized screwdriver to put them back in, that worked real good!!☺
Intake valve retainer is damaged, inspect closely and valve stem as well. Check B&S manual for proper piston position for checking clearances before grinding valves. Love the vids, Jack
Thanks Bud!!☺
wouldn't it be wise to give the lawnmower a nice wash before you attempt to dismantle it ? Nice video as always.
Nah, there won't be any dirt or grease around where we are working!! We'll probably clean it after it's together and running!!☺
805ROADKING i suspect a new lick'o'paint too? with some polished brass and chrome?
And some eyes ???
Maybe it should have a back-up camera too?
You're better off not washing it. That way you keep track of every problem.
What do you know about tires? How much driving can you do once the wear bars are flush with the tread?
Nah, don't know much about tires!! I drive mine till I can see the air inside them!!☺
Hah! Well I plan on replacing the front tires before winter.
learn something new everytime I watch brother
Thanks alot Grant!!☺
Man the part ive been searching eveywhere for and was looking like you we're going to do the whole thing on camera was removing those two little pieces outside of the retainer for that exhaust valve but your hand was in the way when you got the second one and you took out the first one off camera! 😮😢😢😢😭😭
When you put it back together, put the exhaust retainer cap on the spring before you compress it and put the compressor over that cap and you will have no trouble with the coletts. cheers.
Check that intake valve retainer for a bend. It could be tweaked a little causing the spring not to sit right
Hey raodking how ya doin. When you were talking about the valve keepers they are similar to a briggs model h i took apart this evening and this is from the 20s or 30s
my guess is the "T" is a part marking identifier, just a guess
"I seen this at NASCAR" he sais!! damn, this mower is gonna be making left turns only from here on out!!! 😉
Could half of the valve retainer collet have fallen out, allowing the valve retainer to oblong itself against the valve.... Which caused the spring to sit "wonky"?
Bill Blood That is what it appears, which is why it was much easier to get that spring out. The metal he found is likely the remnants of that keeper.
Keyboard Mechanics are really out on this one. Good video and hope you get it running like a old Top. Like Old junk Buddy
Thanks Bud!! We should get it running with all this help eh!!☺
Did I see a crack on the exterior of the cylinder jug or was that just a casting part line?
Just a casting Mark!!☺
Intake valve retainer might be shot. I would just try lapping them in. And make sure you have the rt valve tapped clearance
The t mite be tempered steel so when they roll of your bench they don't break into pieces
are those valves adjustable?
it looks like the intake valve spring was in upside-down the flat side needs to be at the top to keep it square against the block
Interesting dissection!
Thank you Buddy!!☺
Good oll road king discovering power tools
Yeah Buddy!! ☺
you said something doesn't look right it's because the intake valve spring is out of position ,, it's probably been that way for a while too
the exhauste valve is different ,, it has a valve rotator , and a 2 piece retainer instead of the snap clip on the intake
i skipped through this time, engine can run GREAT with no valve clearance, it gives it more lift off the cam! the gap is for starting, especially cold starts. i have a gy6 50cc engine, i set the gaps to 1 -1/1 thou on intake and 2 thou on exhst ran great but, very very hard start in the cold (4k and 5k recomnded). YMMV!!! they say the gap gets smaller when it warms up but, depends on the engine design and metals used, i've seen the gap get bigger when warmed up too!!!
you can have problems with burnt valves if the valve clearance is too small. If the valve cannot close properly, it can overheat due to the fact that it does not get any cooling when it does not make contact with the valve seat
That intake valve spring is kinda like me...we all get a little saggy with age.
Ah, wonky spring syndrome, makes everything else wonky too... :P
(I have no idea what the problem is, I just had to make a joke about wonky springs!)
Does the T mean stellite?
Roadking I believe the T designates that it is a titanium valve
Brad Downs titanum???? What do you mean? I don't own or have taken apart a Briggs and Stratton from the 80s I have one from the 30 but it is all cast iron
BOB White
the engine blocks cast iron. I don't know of any valves or seats made of cast iron.
the valves themselves are made of different materials there were some valves made with sodium filled centers decades ago. but the valve you have there I'm pretty sure the T designates a titanium valve.
Brad Downs so wait the one from the 30s probably has a titanium valves? I don't know how they make valves and in fact never thought about it till now. What about the real early hit n misses what do you think those valves were made of?
BOB White the 30's and before and hit and miss engines I have not worked on but from what I have read the hit and miss engines could have sodium filled or hardened steel valves. if the stem seems unusually large diameter it is a sodium filled valve if not probably just hardened steel.
LMAO, 'oh, oh woh! 'you okay'. I do that to.
Loved the vid .... Back to the "real" world :)
Yeah Buddy!! We gotta get this thing rolling!!☺
Would in not have been easier to also clamp the spinner so the collets would have been looser ?.
has this been a life hobby or do you work in the trade
Just something to kill time with!!☺
there are very few times in all the repairs that I have done where I take the head off and the gasket is ok also you should consider rehoning the cylinder wall it gives you better performance and higher compression
ford king but the old standby rule applies here, if it aint broke, don't fix it
Trucks nTractors true but the cross honing is all worn down so it would benefit with a honing job
Ddymnm, right, but not because of larger displacement, but rather because of inadequate ring gap. You can do a light hone, but the rings remain the same. Once you hone, you have to get one of those ring kits that allow you to snap the gap (they look like a key chain ring) to your spec ID.
I've done it 4 times in a row on my mower (a kubota) and only on the 4th have i started to feel the difference, at that point, you're on to worse issues anyways.
ford king if the cross hatch is gone she's tired. I'd be real particular for checking the whole intake tract for dirt ingestion, can't think how many engines I've seen whooped out from dirt ingestion.
Couldn't be anymore true its not like a multi thousand dollar motor.
I know this is old but “T” stands for the manufacturer “Toledo”.
Thanks Bud!! It took two years but I knew somebody would know!!☺
Why wouldn't you de-gunk that mower before digging into it?
It was too late!! It took a shit about 7:30 PM, by the time we figure we hate to take it apart it was way too dark out to fuck with it!! We gave it a bath after we put it back together and had it running!! you can't worry about that shit with a field repair!!☺
That appears to be Friday engine and the assembly line was out of B&S valves so they substituted Tecumseth valves thus the "T". :-)
Yup!!! She looks Well used lol!!!
But not that bad at the same time! Should be a Quick fix!
(Also Wash that tractor lol!!!)
We gave it a bath after we put it together!!☺
This one is gong to take a little work.
Yeah Buddy!! ☺
I see now,It looks like the spring isn’t seated.
maybe the T is for piddy da fool that mixes those two valves up
great stuff! Time flies while watching your videos - the dog is desperate for a walk but she had to wait!
That inlet valve spring was very strange! Looked like it too should have had a 'rotator' to keep it straight but it obviously couldn't of just vanished...
Thanks Grump!! Yeah nothing was missing, that's the way it was designed!!☺
didn't musti just broke down one just like this one
Yep a severe case of Muffler Thrust Bearing Failure..
absolutely, gotta hate when that happens
Use a magnet to fish out those valve keepers.
I think something is missing in there.
yessir, looks like pisa
Yeah it appeared like that, but everything was there!!☺
That spring just didn't look right.
Yeah I couldn't see anything wrong with it when we took it out!! I put it back in straight, but who knows WTF will happen once we start it up eh!!☺
make it run on nitro methane
You lost your keepers.