What a beautifully shot and explained video. This project has gone straight to very near the top of my ever growing 'to-do' list and though no doubt it's going to make for a full weekend project, once it's made, you've got a very useful jig for life! Thanks for posting.
I agree that it is an ad for the Triton table but, being a newby to this I like how clear and concise he explained it. I wish that they showed the fence he made.
I love the idea of using a solid oak kitchen worktop as the top for a desk that has a top that wraps down one side forming the leg on that side. That join being large box joints. Can you make 1.5inch box joints with the router using a simple jig?
Can you toss in e.g. a 1/2" wide (widest point) dovetail bit, cut the dovetail on the far end of the jig's pin, and then run the same exact process with the dovetail joint, having the tip of the pin (at the bottom) 1" away from the narrow point at the bottom of the dovetail bit?
Rather than placing the first panel in as a spacer and risking catching the edge, would it not be easier to just turn the next panel round and cut it back to front, then just spin it round again when fitting????
If you used a dovetail bit it would be pretty hard to place the board onto the previously cut dovetail. You could not drop it down onto the dovetail bit, it would have to be slid onto it. Very difficult to do on a sled.
I would have preferred it if you had made the jig for the Jessam router table like the one in the background as it’s the same top, fence and sliding mitre that I use. The cabinet is very similar as well. But a very good instruction video that I’m going to try to adapt for the Jessam. Thanks.
You can use just wood slats the don't have to be a T grove either. It's better then buying the rails unless you have the money. You can buy miter bars and tracks at Rockler.com. www.rockler.com/search/go?asug=&sli_uuid=cc021091-3a7c-4e25-82e4-1a0257841263&w=miter+bar
how do you make the pin the correct size? once made do you just cut a slot for it with the bit and glue it in? it's probably obvious. anyone explain it? I want to make a jig like that.
Not explained enough, is it? In the end I went for a professional solid carbide upcut spiral bit. £38. And I had to make an adaptor on my hobby lathe to fit it to my router (don’t try at home, unless you’re me).
I am looking for a simple solution. I can do the jig he has but do not understand how I can make minute adjustments. Don't want to buy an expensive setup.
Several issues with this clip. First of all, it’s definitely not ‘easy’. That would mean trouble free, which it is not. In my experience it takes a tonne of trial and error unless your jig has been made immaculately.. which again is not easy. Two major issues not addressed in this video: If you are using plywood, you cannot do it sensibly with a straight bit. You need a solid carbide spiral bit. Also, one pass is impossible with anything but a very beefy router, especially with a straight bit. I have a good Bosch router and it requires several passes not to over stress it. Second, you need to make your jig so that you can adjust the distance between the pin and the router bit easily. There is no explanation of how to do this in this clip. My suggestion is to add a further false fence on top of the one shown which is moveable and clampable to the first. This further fence houses the pin. Third, the explanation of the fine tuning is misleading. Moving the pin doesn’t adjust the fit; it tunes the gap to (hopefully) the exact size of the slot that your router bit makes. If you try to adjust the fit by moving the pin by more than 0.025mm either way and need to join large dimension pieces, the fit will be rubbish. The error multiplies with every next pin/slot you make. It’s only easy if you’ve either successfully done it before, or you are a seasoned professional.
I appreciate these type of videos, but Woodworker’s Journal is nothing more than a magazine full of ads with the exception of 1 or 2 articles. Hence, I unsubscribed.
What a beautifully shot and explained video. This project has gone straight to very near the top of my ever growing 'to-do' list and though no doubt it's going to make for a full weekend project, once it's made, you've got a very useful jig for life! Thanks for posting.
Nice video. Fellow is easy to follow and speaks clearly to be understood. Bookmarking this.
I agree that it is an ad for the Triton table but, being a newby to this I like how clear and concise he explained it. I wish that they showed the fence he made.
Excellent video!
That was really well explained, thank you.
Very well done video. Thanks for posting.
What an easy explanation on how to do these. Thanks!!
I love the idea of using a solid oak kitchen worktop as the top for a desk that has a top that wraps down one side forming the leg on that side. That join being large box joints. Can you make 1.5inch box joints with the router using a simple jig?
But how did you make the jig?
New to woodworking. What bit do you use?
Thank you for all your tips all the best john.
Thanks for the information...how to make a edge joining....👍✌️
Good Video, Video.
Can you toss in e.g. a 1/2" wide (widest point) dovetail bit, cut the dovetail on the far end of the jig's pin, and then run the same exact process with the dovetail joint, having the tip of the pin (at the bottom) 1" away from the narrow point at the bottom of the dovetail bit?
Is there a reason to prefer the making of the box joints with a router or a table saw?
Rather than placing the first panel in as a spacer and risking catching the edge, would it not be easier to just turn the next panel round and cut it back to front, then just spin it round again when fitting????
What kind of bit was that?
Could you essentially do the same thing with a dovetail bit?
If you used a dovetail bit it would be pretty hard to place the board onto the previously cut dovetail. You could not drop it down onto the dovetail bit, it would have to be slid onto it. Very difficult to do on a sled.
@@jeffstanley4593 ua-cam.com/video/EcLRRZty-C4/v-deo.html
Excellent
this jig is nothing new, I think Norm was doing this 15 yrs ago or so. However, you've made a very clear and concise instructional video, well done
This is a really great and helpful video! Thank you
Thank You!
So how would i do this on a 2x6x8ft board? The only thing i can think of is making a large back on the jig.
at 2:53 what is the danger if you cut through your jig?
This is so cool and I want to make the jig now but don't know how can you make a video on how to make the jig please?!
I would have preferred it if you had made the jig for the Jessam router table like the one in the background as it’s the same top, fence and sliding mitre that I use. The cabinet is very similar as well. But a very good instruction video that I’m going to try to adapt for the Jessam. Thanks.
Came here hoping for a tutorial on making a box joint jig. Instead I got a commercial for a router table I don't need.
Gracias por mostrar su procedimiento
Thank you. I can see where I'm going wrong now.
Where do you get the rails for the miter grooves?
You can use just wood slats the don't have to be a T grove either. It's better then buying the rails unless you have the money. You can buy miter bars and tracks at Rockler.com.
www.rockler.com/search/go?asug=&sli_uuid=cc021091-3a7c-4e25-82e4-1a0257841263&w=miter+bar
+Anthony Frasco Thank You, Sir.
+TheRangeControl your welcome come check my channel out please like share and SUBSCRIBE . Thanks
+Anthony Frasco I'll check it out now.
+TheRangeControl thanks
how do you make the pin the correct size? once made do you just cut a slot for it with the bit and glue it in? it's probably obvious. anyone explain it? I want to make a jig like that.
Watch this vid. ua-cam.com/video/-GszYAh0Yhg/v-deo.html
I'd have found more use in detailed instructions on the construction of the jig itself. Otherwise, this just looks like an ad for the Triton table.
Where did you get the rails from
what kind of bit do you use,,i have tried using a straight bit with a 1/4 shaft and it will not cut the wood
Not explained enough, is it?
In the end I went for a professional solid carbide upcut spiral bit. £38. And I had to make an adaptor on my hobby lathe to fit it to my router (don’t try at home, unless you’re me).
I am looking for a simple solution. I can do the jig he has but do not understand how I can make minute adjustments. Don't want to buy an expensive setup.
Several issues with this clip.
First of all, it’s definitely not ‘easy’. That would mean trouble free, which it is not. In my experience it takes a tonne of trial and error unless your jig has been made immaculately.. which again is not easy.
Two major issues not addressed in this video:
If you are using plywood, you cannot do it sensibly with a straight bit. You need a solid carbide spiral bit.
Also, one pass is impossible with anything but a very beefy router, especially with a straight bit. I have a good Bosch router and it requires several passes not to over stress it.
Second, you need to make your jig so that you can adjust the distance between the pin and the router bit easily. There is no explanation of how to do this in this clip. My suggestion is to add a further false fence on top of the one shown which is moveable and clampable to the first. This further fence houses the pin.
Third, the explanation of the fine tuning is misleading. Moving the pin doesn’t adjust the fit; it tunes the gap to (hopefully) the exact size of the slot that your router bit makes. If you try to adjust the fit by moving the pin by more than 0.025mm either way and need to join large dimension pieces, the fit will be rubbish. The error multiplies with every next pin/slot you make.
It’s only easy if you’ve either successfully done it before, or you are a seasoned professional.
A lot of whole wasted motion there. I usually cut those slots in two or four pieces at a one time.
I appreciate these type of videos, but Woodworker’s Journal is nothing more than a magazine full of ads with the exception of 1 or 2 articles. Hence, I unsubscribed.