why start with grey to just cover it with black and then try the zenital trick?? also, why the zenital trick if you then decide to go "meh, just heavy coat with KF"?? basically the first half of the tutorial has no influence of the final results, and just overcomplicate things.
Which you would see much better if you didn't cover the model black in the first place. I came to the conclusion, that the only parts of a model where it's acceptable to use straight up black undercoat is the underside of tank models. Engine compartments, tracks, suspensions, areas like that. For Infantry (other than straight up black armored dudes) a lighter basecoat is allways better.
Let's see. He used a black-white gradient to indicate lighter and darker tones. Now you may already notice if you are using airbrush, spraying black over white or white over black makes fleckes at the edge of the transition. Really keen and pro painters, and those who like to copy their methods, are avoiding this by using a grey undercolor, then thin black then thin grey, then white. You can repeat this with multiple REALLY thinned layers of airbrush paint coats, but I bet you already have the point. If you wish to win a slayer sword or similar prize, you probably do more coats. If you just want to give a UA-cam tutorial with fair reasult, one step is far enough. About the second half of the tut. In case if you have a black-grey-white gradient undercolored minis to start with, and when you are using REALLY thinned, mutiple layered paints, the paint coats and the light-dark undertone will mix together as a stunning final result. Do not paint in the old 'eavy metal style (which is fine, but different method), just glaze and glaze and glaze... and glaze. It may be boring and it is definately slow process, but has many positive effects. Like if you accidently overpaint, not a big deal, because a thinned paint not as striking as using directly from the pot.
I always read a lot of comments left by haters on these videos. If you can do a better job, by all means post a link to your video... if not, stfu. Appreciate the tips he provides and the art of painting mini's.
Nice 1 relatively simple. Still Ive never really understood having loads of different colour base coats grey black grey white when the final few coats are painted they make fuck all difference. I tried it once on 2 models 1 with all the base layers 1 straight onto primer and tbh nobody was able to tell the difference. No for the record I am a shit painter TT at best.
Isn't it weird how many Channels became "worse" from the second half of 2015 and on? I mean, that goes for so many so different channels, it's like the universe changed back then.
why start with grey to just cover it with black and then try the zenital trick?? also, why the zenital trick if you then decide to go "meh, just heavy coat with KF"?? basically the first half of the tutorial has no influence of the final results, and just overcomplicate things.
It's just to use as a reference for where the natural highlights would be.
Which you would see much better if you didn't cover the model black in the first place. I came to the conclusion, that the only parts of a model where it's acceptable to use straight up black undercoat is the underside of tank models. Engine compartments, tracks, suspensions, areas like that. For Infantry (other than straight up black armored dudes) a lighter basecoat is allways better.
Let's see. He used a black-white gradient to indicate lighter and darker tones. Now you may already notice if you are using airbrush, spraying black over white or white over black makes fleckes at the edge of the transition. Really keen and pro painters, and those who like to copy their methods, are avoiding this by using a grey undercolor, then thin black then thin grey, then white. You can repeat this with multiple REALLY thinned layers of airbrush paint coats, but I bet you already have the point.
If you wish to win a slayer sword or similar prize, you probably do more coats.
If you just want to give a UA-cam tutorial with fair reasult, one step is far enough.
About the second half of the tut.
In case if you have a black-grey-white gradient undercolored minis to start with, and when you are using REALLY thinned, mutiple layered paints, the paint coats and the light-dark undertone will mix together as a stunning final result. Do not paint in the old 'eavy metal style (which is fine, but different method), just glaze and glaze and glaze... and glaze.
It may be boring and it is definately slow process, but has many positive effects. Like if you accidently overpaint, not a big deal, because a thinned paint not as striking as using directly from the pot.
Any quick tip for the escher yellow armor? 😮
Thanks.
I always read a lot of comments left by haters on these videos. If you can do a better job, by all means post a link to your video... if not, stfu. Appreciate the tips he provides and the art of painting mini's.
Any chance to get a tutorial with a raker skin tone, like Mediterranean or tanned?
I find a Barbarian fleshtone and ogryn flesh are good for this mate
@@Jagunco oh, nice, need to try that, thanks.
@@PijamasGagarin I forgot to mention mate the barbarian flesh is a Valleho paint (however you spell it)
Right hand looks like a mess... Also, why not use Flayed One Flesh instead of 1:1 mix of Kislev and Pallid?
P.S. Damn the Vault.
Nice 1 relatively simple.
Still Ive never really understood having loads of different colour base coats grey black grey white when the final few coats are painted they make fuck all difference.
I tried it once on 2 models 1 with all the base layers 1 straight onto primer and tbh nobody was able to tell the difference.
No for the record I am a shit painter TT at best.
Beautiful voice
Isn't it weird how many Channels became "worse" from the second half of 2015 and on? I mean, that goes for so many so different channels, it's like the universe changed back then.