Why switch off LONG EXPOSURE NOISE REDUCTION? Astrophotography
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2020
- Today I'll show you why I turn off Long Exposure Noise Reduction. It may seem like you have all the time in the world to photograph the stars, but when you're doing multiple long exposures, time goes so quickly. If you want to take more photos at night, turn off this Long exposure noise reduction function in your camera.
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Thanks for this info. I never knew how the noise reduction worked. Now i understand why i have to wait so long for 'processing'. Turned off now. Really appreciated 👍🏼👍🏼
No worries Mark, I'm glad I could help...it is really annoying when you have to wait for this to process. 👍
Wow, I had no idea about any of this! Thank you for all the information!!
Glad it was helpful Thamires! 😁👍
Excellently explained!
Another great video with practical advice. If you have a once in a lifetime chance then you don't want to see Processing on the back of the camera. Thank you. Still can't go to many places but everyone is safe and healthy so I am happy. Stay safe, healthy, and sane.
Exactly Lance...It would be so annoying waiting for the processing part to complete as a huge shooting star flies by overhead!! 🤦🏻♂️ ... and for timelapses, it is vital to turn this off at night. 👍
Good to hear you and your family is staying safe. We're doing the same. I'm looking forward to getting out again but we're not taking any risks. 👍
I genuinely thought my Z8 was broken, after seeing these pixels in the same position on every image. 😂
Good to know what it actually is and how the long exposure NR works.
Good explanation, as always!
As always, thanks so much!! 😁👍
Thanks Mike, I do Lightning photography and do 10 seconds up to 30 seconds exposures. This will help a lot. Because it seems like whenever there is a great lightning bolt in front of me. My camera is processing the photo I took a before.
No worries, I'm glad it has helped. That is definitely one application where it is vital to have it turned off. 👍
It is so annoying when you take a shot and then are waiting around for the processing bit to complete.
Thanks for watching. 👍
Very interesting for astrophotographers, I'm not one of them, however it is an interesting field in photography. Thanks Mr. Mike
No worries Luis. This is also useful for long exposure photography so worth knowing. 😁👍
If you ever get the chance to do Astrophotography, do so! It's amazing! I have a picture of the Summer Milkyway with the galatic Center on my Instagram page.
Wow very informative mike thanks a lot
Glad you enjoyed it! 😁👍
Great tip, thank you!
No worries, thanks for watching 😁👍
Hi Mike. Any video where you show the process of making the final image with that additional "black" image?
Thanks a lot
Hi Jose,
Not yet, but I will do one soon. 😁👍
Hi Mike, I find that I don’t need to shoot black/dark frames for Astro with the Sony full frames, I just stack between 6 to 10 shots in Sequator to remove noise. I’ve tried with & without black frames & I couldn’t tell a difference. I also only turn on long exposure noise reduction for long exposures over one & a half minutes, other than that the odd red & green & blue hot pixels aren’t too bad! 👍🥰👌🤪
Great to hear Nash! Most of the time I don't need to either. The only time I do is if I am doing some star trails or tracking shots here in the middle east...in the summer...the hotpixels are pretty crazy on anything over 2 minutes!
Thanks for watching! 😁👍
Hello Mike, well, last night I went out to take some shots at a lightning clouds, and it was so frustrating to wait every shot from the 30 seconds to the 2/3 minutes. And I thought maybe I needed a faster memory card.
Just now, I received your notification and.. WOW!!!
I went to the menu and guess what?... I switched the noise reduction, result? I hope so.
Anyway, do I need to switch on again or can I live it off??
Thank you against, and great video.
Ciao! 😁
Great to hear this has helped! I tend to leave it off all the time as most of the time it doesn't come in to play. I just make sure to take some dark frames if I am doing any astrophotography.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Thanks sir
Another great Monday quick tip. I have never tried the long exposure noise reduction. I started taking dark frames after watching your Starry Landscape Stacker video last year or the year before. Is there an advantage to taking multiple dark frames or is one enough? I think I recall you suggesting to take half the number of shots with a dark frame, but I can't remember why. I guess I could go watch that video again. Hope all is well, brother.
Cheers dude! In theory it is a fantastic function but so impractical waiting around for the processing bit to finish. I think with starry landscape stacker, the more dark frames you have, the more it helps the program determine what are stars and what are hot pixels. 👍
Great stuff as always! Would you recommend Long Exposure Noise Reduction turned on or off in the case of the city photo you had at 0:49?
I would have it turned off for that one. Generally for cityscapes, your shutter speeds won't be really long...unless you're wanting to have a super long exposure...but I generally have it turned off so I can get more shots when I am at a given location. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Awesome, that does make sense. Thanks!
Thank you for the video, Mike!
I'm a light painting photographer and always turned the LENR off exactly because of the mentioned reason. My big problem is though that I don't have/use Photoshop, and process everything in Lightroom only. Do you know any PS-alternative solutions?
Another smaller problem in my case is that my exposure times are all different and it's kinda impossible to have a single dark frame which would suit them all...
Affinity!
Beautiful Explained. One thing to know should I On Long Exp NR for wildlife photography or birding???
As you'll probably be shooting short exposure times for wildlife, I'd keep it off ... it should only start working for exposures of 1 second or more.
@@mikesphotography thanks 👍🏼👍🏼
Hello Mike. I'd like to see your review on newest Sony 12-24 f/2.8. It looks amazing. The only deal breaker for me apart from the price is the filter issue. Do you intend to make a review soon?
Hi Bruno,
I was looking forward to that coming out but I've just seen the price of $3000...seems way overpriced... but if I can get my hands on a test model from Sony, I'd love to try it out. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Couldn't agree more. Hopefully you'll get it from Sony for test purposes.
Thanks
And thank you for watching! 😀👍
if we anyway have to take a blank shot for the same exposure, I can do that well before I start my photography session. Correct? I can use the same blank shot for similar long exposure shots after I return. Will that be okay?
I will get blank shots for 15 sec, 20sec, 25 sec, 30 sec. Keep it handy..and Use these 4 shots for noise reduction for the entire week or may be for a month. So in case, I shoot a 30 sec long expo landscape, I will simply use a 30sec blank shot from last week. Would that work?
Unfortunately it doesn't quite work like that...it's a shame as that would be great to be able to have a stock set of dark frames for the camera you have.
The amount of long exposure noise is determined by the temperature and humidity of the given location and also the last time the camera did a reset of it's sensor readout.
So you need to do your dark frames at the same location so they will be at exactly the same intensity as in your photographs.
With the sony cameras, every now and then, when you turn them off, they will activate the shutter for a short time...I think this is where they are checking and remapping the sensor so the pattern of hotpixel can change when this happens, so again it is important to get your dark frames as close to the images taken as possible.
Does that make sense?
It seems to me that Astro photography takes a lot of time and skill both when shooting and post processing. I hear you when you say that using long exposure noise reduction can increase shooting time significantly. However you did not really show if using it really works. I haven't seen anyone actually address the question of if it is a viable alternative to shooting blacks for noise removal or does it introduce other problems such a softening the image?
That's a good point Jim! I might have to make a video testing exactly what it does to an astro-photograph. I've just got to get to a dark location to test it out and I'll see what happens and make a video on it.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
So if i just do single exposure its no problem..like i always did.
What about the multi shot noise reduction function? It stacks 4 picture into one to reduce noise. Do you recommend?
I don't think that is available on all sony cameras but it would be a good function to have...I'm guessing it stacks a series of photos in to one final image...The best bet would be to try it out and see whether a single image or the stack image looks better...I do with they would have a function like this on all of their cameras though. 👍
I know about dark frames but my issue is that I seldom remember to take them.
Haha! I know what you mean...it is so frustrating getting back home and then realising you haven't got the dark frames. The best way to do it is to put a sticky on your lens cap, so as you replace it, it jogs your memory. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography that's a good call. I'll try to remember to put a reminder to put a reminder on my lens cap.
And what about long exposure during the day (Picture with ND1000 filter) ? I suspect it doesn't make sense...
This noise only really shows up on really long exposures and tends to hide in the shadows, so if you get a good exposure you should be fine without it. 👍
I want to shoot star trail. Please tell me what setting.
It all depends on the conditions you have on the night you go out and what lens and camera setup you have.
I'd set the ISO to 5000, the aperture as wide as it will go with your lens... and then use the 500 rule to work out how long I could take the shutter before getting drifting in the stars.
Hi Mike when Im photograph Northern lights here in Iceland I always turn off Long exposure, but ,,black image,, you have to make for us video how to edit in LR, and thanks for all yours videos, make my live with Sony A7III easy.
Great to hear Kari!
I'll make a video on it as soon as possible...currently moving countries at the moment but once we're settled in, I'll get on to it.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Random question, but what shutter speed is this video shot at?
I think this is about 1/60 to 1/80 second...in our lounge I was shooting in, it was a little too light for a 1/50 shutter speed, so I had to bump it up a little so I didn't blow out the highlights. 👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks for that info. I've been fretting over shutter speeds and the 180degree rules and/or if that applies with video in different fps on same timelines, with or with slow motion etc etc and I'm 'proud' to have noticed the crisper, less motion blur look due to quicker shutter xD This honestly looks like it's in 50P to me!
I know some people stick to the 180 degree religiously and others completely ignore it...
I try and follow it when I can but I don't worry too much if I have to change my shutter speed a few stops away from that rule.
I try to avoid pushing my shutter to the extremes, like 1/500+ but a few clicks off the rule is fine for me. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Yeah, of course no worries! But am I right in thinking, and it's a step up from being a complete amateur; and that's to at least keep the shutter speed the same in a video. As in not really shoot in program auto where, unbeknownst to my younger self, it of course wants to keep as much light as possible coming in, going below 1/30.. to randomly preferring 1/100 even in 25P - causing what I now know to be that super 'slow' motion blurry look in low light. I notice you have a video on all this, watching it now ;)
Exactly...I shoot all of my videos in manual mode so I have control over the camera not the other way around...then you'll never get the shutter moving around at all.
If you are in very changeable conditions, use shutter priority or auto iso and then use the exposure compensation to control the exposure...but if you plan the shots properly, you should be able to use manual mode in almost all situations. 👍
better enable or disable
It's better to turn it off...
You can also use a faster camera and card 😅 embarrassing seeing Sony take that long 😳
That has nothing to do with this process. This is an internal "hot pixel removal" process where it takes a second "dark frame" to determine what are hot pixels and what are good pixels; my panasonic did it and I bet nikon and canons will do the same. 😁👍
Please just tell us how to turn it off!
As it says in the title and thumbnail, this is a video on 'why' you should turn it off ...
It all depends on which camera you have, but if you shoot with a Sony camera released in the last 4 years, it should be in tab 1, page 2 or 3 and it will be labeled "Long Exposure NR" and switching it to off would do the trick.
Thanks for watching 😁👍