I always get a kick out of watching these. I keep telling myself I'm gonna do some of this molding work. I used to make suction cups at work for picking up bars of soap. I remember heating those though even though it was a 2 part material.
I used alginate for two sets of arms for mold-over casts and a torso a number of years ago. I was So glad I bought extra, as I was used to silicone and alginate is just as fragile as you might think. Definitely wasn't a fan of the 'filled' type with the fibers, even though it was probably the one that held together better after the skinning time (I ruined the first one in arm removal, tore the finger section). I ended up having the best outcome by mixing in the same vessel that I used to contain the alginate, a very large PVC tube capped on the bottom, then poured casting plaster in the molds for the arms; those came out fine with a little finish work, though tearing the alginate off felt great vs the struggles we had in getting clean finger secitons. The torso, ehh, our subject was a bodybuilder friend who was not so keen on the jelly-like and cooling effect of having a thick section mold on him. We ended up finding a large mannequin, sculpted clay onto it and molded that. Still have the torso, ironically. We bulked it up with pictoral references and added a carbon weave top texture which came out magnificently awesome. 😉
Would vacuum degassing be necessary if I wanted to use TC-5150 instead of TC-5130F? I notice that the viscosity is higher at 9100 cP instead of 5430 cP, but I am unsure if it is high enough to necessitate degassing
For that you would need to make a core mold. Not something you could do in an alginate mold. I suppose you could "slosh" a 5110F around until it set, but it would be very difficult to ensure a uniform thickness.
What can be done to prevent those bubbles that are visible along the wrist of this silicone cast? Is it caused by some issue w/ the alginate mold or of not vacuuming the silicone mixture?
@@brendon2343 those bubbles are in the alginate mold. You don’t have to cast up to that point. I only cast that part to give these hands a base so they could stand on their own for the video.
@@brickintheyard I am looking to create a cast of my wrist specifically. Is the bubbles along the wrist portion due to not rubbing the alginate along the wrist, as mentioned around 5:11? Or is it due to not using distilled water?
@@brendon2343 Yes, make sure you rub the alginate against your skin to eliminate surface bubbles. Tap water is fine, mineral rich well water can cause strange things to happen such as accelerating or retarding the cure or causing partial cure. For this video, I just wanted the hand. For what you want, you might consider using a longer tube.
Gloves that fir properly really need to be sculpted over a core. In this case the core would be a resin positive of the hand that will be wearing the glove. Once the glove is sculpted in clay, a 2 piece mold can be made over the glove and core. The core needs to be keyed into the 2 piece mold so everything will allign for casting.
It looks quite hard getting the silicone hand out? Would it be possible to make a glove hand ie hollow? Or would it likely rip whilst trying to pull it out?
I have bay many of those silicone bottles a couple months ago , and didn’t use them all , I am just asking When will it expire? Just to know what I am going through
This is 5110F silicone and it has a very stable shelf life. That said, I would try to use at least within a year of purchase. As it ages it will thicken and loose the low viscosity it had when new.
Maybe. Alginate is organic and starts to break down pretty fast, so don't expect it to last. Damp paper towels inside the mold can extend the life a little bit, but you have to use the mold fast!!!
I'm a trauma actor in the Nederlands and have some questions.... Does this stuff can handle some mistreatment ?? Does it last ??? I mean i need to make it once and be able to use the limb multiple times for years. I need it to be realistic. I need it to be able to withstand water, dirt, oils etc etc. Can it withstand a tourniquet? I would like to add a skeleton and perhaps some veins (riped off limb). It's so hard to find the right stuff due to the usage...
5110 and 5130 are both tough, tear resistant silicones. That said, a lot depends on how the part is made and used. We don't sell outside the US, but you can see if there's a BJB distributor close to you and they can direct you to the products you need.
@@brickintheyardHow are you, brother? I want to make copies of my face. What is the name of the materials? Please can you send the name of the manufacturing material
You R the "Silicone Whisperer" Thank you. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left 🏡
“Silicone whisperer” lol! Thanks!
I always get a kick out of watching these. I keep telling myself I'm gonna do some of this molding work. I used to make suction cups at work for picking up bars of soap. I remember heating those though even though it was a 2 part material.
Very cool!
Thanks for the video.
Wow! Next time make one of your arms too dude!
Nice to see artists that have musles too for a change!!💪
Lol!!
I used alginate for two sets of arms for mold-over casts and a torso a number of years ago. I was So glad I bought extra, as I was used to silicone and alginate is just as fragile as you might think. Definitely wasn't a fan of the 'filled' type with the fibers, even though it was probably the one that held together better after the skinning time (I ruined the first one in arm removal, tore the finger section). I ended up having the best outcome by mixing in the same vessel that I used to contain the alginate, a very large PVC tube capped on the bottom, then poured casting plaster in the molds for the arms; those came out fine with a little finish work, though tearing the alginate off felt great vs the struggles we had in getting clean finger secitons.
The torso, ehh, our subject was a bodybuilder friend who was not so keen on the jelly-like and cooling effect of having a thick section mold on him. We ended up finding a large mannequin, sculpted clay onto it and molded that. Still have the torso, ironically. We bulked it up with pictoral references and added a carbon weave top texture which came out magnificently awesome. 😉
Glad it worked!!
Would vacuum degassing be necessary if I wanted to use TC-5150 instead of TC-5130F? I notice that the viscosity is higher at 9100 cP instead of 5430 cP, but I am unsure if it is high enough to necessitate degassing
@@brendon2343 I would recommend degassing 5150. Time permitting I might not our a test batch without degassing and see how it does.
how can a hollow hand can be made ? like a gloves with thikness of 1 or 2 mm thikness
You mean a shell like a glove?
For that you would need to make a core mold. Not something you could do in an alginate mold. I suppose you could "slosh" a 5110F around until it set, but it would be very difficult to ensure a uniform thickness.
What can be done to prevent those bubbles that are visible along the wrist of this silicone cast? Is it caused by some issue w/ the alginate mold or of not vacuuming the silicone mixture?
@@brendon2343 those bubbles are in the alginate mold. You don’t have to cast up to that point. I only cast that part to give these hands a base so they could stand on their own for the video.
@@brickintheyard I am looking to create a cast of my wrist specifically. Is the bubbles along the wrist portion due to not rubbing the alginate along the wrist, as mentioned around 5:11? Or is it due to not using distilled water?
@@brendon2343 Yes, make sure you rub the alginate against your skin to eliminate surface bubbles. Tap water is fine, mineral rich well water can cause strange things to happen such as accelerating or retarding the cure or causing partial cure. For this video, I just wanted the hand. For what you want, you might consider using a longer tube.
What if I want to cast a head and neck? How much silicone do I need?
I would recommend visiting the resources section of our video library. There's a lot of steps to that and a lot of different ways to approach that.
Helllo , firstly thanks for this video. Can you help me about how can I make realistic slicone gloves?
Gloves that fir properly really need to be sculpted over a core. In this case the core would be a resin positive of the hand that will be wearing the glove. Once the glove is sculpted in clay, a 2 piece mold can be made over the glove and core. The core needs to be keyed into the 2 piece mold so everything will allign for casting.
@@brickintheyard Do you have the opportunity to make a video about this?
@@r3d4pple17 Time permitting, a core mold is on my list!
It looks quite hard getting the silicone hand out? Would it be possible to make a glove hand ie hollow? Or would it likely rip whilst trying to pull it out?
There is a fair amount of suction on a mold like this.
I have bay many of those silicone bottles a couple months ago , and didn’t use them all , I am just asking When will it expire?
Just to know what I am going through
This is 5110F silicone and it has a very stable shelf life. That said, I would try to use at least within a year of purchase. As it ages it will thicken and loose the low viscosity it had when new.
i want to buy from europe this silicone, any option to deliver here?
Would covering the tube with cling wrap between casting help the alginate last a bit longer?
Maybe. Alginate is organic and starts to break down pretty fast, so don't expect it to last. Damp paper towels inside the mold can extend the life a little bit, but you have to use the mold fast!!!
I would like to cast a breast for breast cancer awareness month, what would you do differently to accomplish a good end result?
You might want to use a softer silicone like TC-5100.
Can you mold the front side of the hand without the full back hand?
That is up to you and your moldmaking/lifecasting skills!
I'm a trauma actor in the Nederlands and have some questions....
Does this stuff can handle some mistreatment ??
Does it last ???
I mean i need to make it once and be able to use the limb multiple times for years.
I need it to be realistic.
I need it to be able to withstand water, dirt, oils etc etc.
Can it withstand a tourniquet?
I would like to add a skeleton and perhaps some veins (riped off limb).
It's so hard to find the right stuff due to the usage...
5110 and 5130 are both tough, tear resistant silicones. That said, a lot depends on how the part is made and used. We don't sell outside the US, but you can see if there's a BJB distributor close to you and they can direct you to the products you need.
Great job🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you 🤗
Por qué no se ha producido inhibición al mezclar la silicona con el alginato? Habéis esperado un poco para que el molde pierda humedad? Gracias
5110F is not inhibited by alginate or moisture.
@@brickintheyard 😍😍😍 a lot of thanks
Would have been nice to see different skin tones that are possible rather than just the same one 4 times. Good explanation though.
Check out some of our other videos for more info on pigmenting/skin tones, etc..
@@brickintheyardHow are you, brother?
I want to make copies of my face. What is the name of the materials?
Please can you send the name of the manufacturing material
@@علاءامعلاء-ض1ب the product links are listed in the video description. Thanks for watching!
GREAT🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks!
I'm dumb maybe...why would I want to make impressions of human body parts? A hand for my fireplace maybe, but give me more. Thanks.
Lots of reasons: Medical simulators, film props, anatomy reference, prosthetic work, tattoo practice, etc. etc.