Art. If you can put some sides on the top duct to prevent air bypassing the radiator through the dimple die holes on each side it will help with efficiency. I suspect the flow through the louvres will be quite restricted but making it removable is clever and you can test it. Seems like a big coolant volume so it may not matter anyway.
Looks awesome Jordan. You may want a mesh over the opening to stop leaf litter or tumble weeds and debris being sucked up on top possibly blocking or jamming in the fan. Unlike a vertically mounted radiator any debris on the top wont fall away but may block your airflow.
Excellent craftsmanship as usual! Hard to explain this but I wonder if the radiator was tilted up to the floor at the rear it would create a higher pressure area above it. This combined with your scoop at the front might force more air though, as others have suggested close the dimple holes too. The fans could then be fitted underneath in the space created by the tilted rad where they will be more efficient. The louvres could still be fitted level underneath with a gap at the rear above them to draw even more air out.........maybe.
I think if you put a little spacer between the radiator and the louvers, it will improve a lot the airflow. Curious to see the results of this design, here in Brazil we see a lot of VW bus engine swaps, and I've seen a lot of radiator configurations
The radiator carrier looks pretty impressive Jordan, re the scoop i would think come forward a little and go as wide as possible at the front tapering back to the radiator and attached to the top panel under the floor you spoke of so it forms a duct then the air cant escape and is forced into the rad, possibly a vertical stiffener in the centre of the scoop to stop any flex... if that makes sense!, which is what you may have been explaining. I see what was in the box now that guillo should make life a bit easier. Cheers Greg
Your comment reminded me of my, “Class of 62”, high school drafting teacher. He would grade us on how we drew the dimensional arrow heads exactly as he wanted them. Sharpness of point, length, spacing and evenness of blades. 2H or 4H etc. He’s dead now and I’m not…he, he, he.
I love the louvers, however they will put a lot of back pressure on the fan, which will probably increase the heat around the motor and cause premature failure. The mesh reduces that substantially.
A vertical radiator expels air naturally, but this horizontal design might tend to trap it, since you won't have gravity on your side. You could use a centrifugal separator to deaerate your coolant. Lakos is one brand. Bell & Gossett is another or you could build your own. I like your channel BTW. You do beautiful work. Kinetic art.
Hay mate, Greg (AKA Moose) here to try and help you with desiding on what kind of air ducting on the Bug Wagon to use? i would try and apply something like what you see on trucks or land cruisers, a snorkel with pipeing to the setup you all ready have? or the scoops you see on race cars to kool there brakes, hope this gives you some idears, keep up the good work your fello hot rodder Moose.
Radiator setup looks awesome. I actually think the side openings are good to have allowing air to escape at speed. Too blind of a scoop will hinder air movement. With an electric fan, all you need is air available. Also do not believe the louvers will be a restriction. Guarantee the air openings total more than the radiator itself has.
good morning. This morning I saw your program and I liked the idea of the location of the radiator but it is not better to put the fans down by pulling the air through the radiator than by blowing the radiator that the air bounces back to the fan making it slower and less flow through the radiator. It's my thinking, I could be wrong.
I like the way you rounded the corners and hid the welds. But, If I ever lay a bead that nice (especially vertically) I would not blend it in. I would likely take a picture and blow it up to poster size and post it in the window of the Kombi! Beautiful!!!!! By the way, I have noticed as of late we are seeing less of your plumbers crack. Now replaced with a cheek shot. I hadn't thought about the possibility of a thong, my first thought was 'Commando' 😲
A-and a radiator mount and shroud becomes art! To all the nay sayers worrying about debris, Model A rads are up front/unprotected and seem to hold fine (for the last 100 years). As per the scoop, go Manta Ray maw! Lastly, you and Ben are going to have to get Josh (drinks) a pace maker if you keep scaring him! Go Bennetts Customs, keep moving forward!
Great work mate, but I think the dimple holes may take away to much air with a flat radiator, just my 2 cents worth I love your fab work Jordan, great channel. Cheers RUSTY.
Something off the topic...the side louvers or vents next to the engine bay...what function do they serve and could they have not been modified to support the radiator and better streamline airflow...just my 2c thought😊😊😊
Craftmanship is 110% on this channel as always. But consider this, each trip will acumulate more leaves/sand/road debris ontop of that rad. Gorgeous work sir, just something to consider.
Cool (pun intended). The engine has some fins, so maybe you can repurpose the side scoops to route some air to engine bay, to assist the rad. It’s a mellow tune, so it probably doesn’t need a shit-ton of cooling. Side-note: different wheel bolt patterns front and rear...what’s the plan there? Cheers!
Very well made ! But... I'm afraid the cross beam in front of might create air turbulences that might mess with the air flow. Maybe the scoop should be way advanced toward the front just in front of the beam ?
Hey Jordan, Yep - another great episode! I'm wondering about the effect of the dimpled holes in the sides of the shroud...while they add strength, might those create a pressure drop, reducing the airflow through the radiator itself? Anticipation grows while we wait for the glorious sound of the radial!!!
The radiator was mounted in the front and had additional boxing around it. fr.combikombi.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/-combi-kombi-49.jpg fr.combikombi.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/-combi-kombi-1.jpeg
Yo dude the only problem I see with the thinner gage panel is drumming or flapping in breeze as it were. The center of the louvered panel will be moving up and down like a drum head and could possibly make a noise that will drive the driver nuts over time, not mention the possibility of tearing the panel right off and exposing the radiator to damage.
Jordan I no the louvers look the part but wouldn’t a reverse of the top be better at releasing the air flow. Like a baking tray with one end missing. Proof of the pudding will be when you give her a road test. Cheers Tim. (Have you gone Aussie and started wherein a thong!!!) cheeky. Tim the Pom.
Keeping with the aircraft theme a smoothed obround air inlet (as per cesna) would have been great. Huge amounts of work and skill required though. Regards
I reckon the basking whale method will generate a massive amount of turbulent airflow. It probably won't be efficient but it might be enough. I can't picture where the fan will sit and how it will interact with that airflow.
I really like what you're doing but steel and ally, no bueno... look at what happens to old Landies, the ally literally just crumbles in contact with steel after years. put a sort of gasket between the two metals, even the fasteners have to not be in contact ideally.
Something you might consider if all else fails; modify you radiator to a triple pass unit. This is something the NASCAR boys have been doing for years.
think about hot air recirculating through dimple die holes. l hear the comment the come in the bottom and out the top. based on an experience had to trouble shoot.
It may sound fantastic but I wouldn't bet the farm on it. A guy I went to school with put straight pipe (no muffler) dual exhaust on a 4 cyl with 2 cyl per pipe. That was the crappiest sounding thing I've ever seen rolling down the street.
They don't know much about aircraft engines if they think that will last long Hint. aircraft engines are designed to run at constant RPM's not rapidly changing . This is why these modifications always have a very short service life. People keep asking why a motor in a plane is good for 1200 but only 600 to 800 in a vehicle In a nut shell, it's the same city vs highway miles
It's easy to watch your work for hours, your welding is impeccable my friend
Art. If you can put some sides on the top duct to prevent air bypassing the radiator through the dimple die holes on each side it will help with efficiency. I suspect the flow through the louvres will be quite restricted but making it removable is clever and you can test it. Seems like a big coolant volume so it may not matter anyway.
Yeah, the dimple dies give the air an easy escape route, which is not good, otherwise it looks really good.
Looks great, my thought would be, since hot air rises the air should come in the bottom and out through the top of the radiator for the best air flow.
But then you are sucking dirt and road grime through the radiator.
Looks awesome Jordan.
You may want a mesh over the opening to stop leaf litter or tumble weeds and debris being sucked up on top possibly blocking or jamming in the fan.
Unlike a vertically mounted radiator any debris on the top wont fall away but may block your airflow.
Definitely! I have a plan to use some brass mesh!
Excellent craftsmanship as usual! Hard to explain this but I wonder if the radiator was tilted up to the floor at the rear it would create a higher pressure area above it. This combined with your scoop at the front might force more air though, as others have suggested close the dimple holes too. The fans could then be fitted underneath in the space created by the tilted rad where they will be more efficient. The louvres could still be fitted level underneath with a gap at the rear above them to draw even more air out.........maybe.
I have wedges in there now with it tilted and looks like it might be the way to go. With play around with further ideas!
I think if you put a little spacer between the radiator and the louvers, it will improve a lot the airflow. Curious to see the results of this design, here in Brazil we see a lot of VW bus engine swaps, and I've seen a lot of radiator configurations
yes a 1/4 in & sum lovers in the top to help the fan poll air
Have you thought about a screen in the air scoop to keep big rocks and crap out to protect the fan and the radiator?
Certainly!
Super fabrication. very talented young man. Someone with great insight and vision.
Much appreciated!
The radiator carrier looks pretty impressive Jordan, re the scoop i would think come forward a little and go as wide as possible at the front tapering back to the radiator and attached to the top panel under the floor you spoke of so it forms a duct then the air cant escape and is forced into the rad, possibly a vertical stiffener in the centre of the scoop to stop any flex... if that makes sense!, which is what you may have been explaining. I see what was in the box now that guillo should make life a bit easier. Cheers Greg
All great ideas here Greg! I ended up making some car board templates very similar to what you are explaining. Next video will be a good one!
Your attention to detail is spot on! Every piece you make is a of sculpture! Well done !
Thanks Will! Much appreciated
Each time I watch you layout your sheets it reminds me of my old highschool and college drafting classes!
Love that!
Your comment reminded me of my, “Class of 62”, high school drafting teacher. He would grade us on how we drew the dimensional arrow heads exactly as he wanted them. Sharpness of point, length, spacing and evenness of blades. 2H or 4H etc. He’s dead now and I’m not…he, he, he.
I love the louvers, however they will put a lot of back pressure on the fan, which will probably increase the heat around the motor and cause premature failure. The mesh reduces that substantially.
Will test both but a louvered mesh insert might just be the ticket!
A vertical radiator expels air naturally, but this horizontal design might tend to trap it, since you won't have gravity on your side. You could use a centrifugal separator to deaerate your coolant. Lakos is one brand. Bell & Gossett is another or you could build your own. I like your channel BTW. You do beautiful work. Kinetic art.
Thank you kindly Frank!
Jordan, are you sure you don't want to rubber mount that radiator to minimize stress as the metal grows and shrinks with heat cycling?
It will run a rubber bushing where it’s mounted to help with vibration cracks
Love the louvers Jordan, every part of that van is going to be so trick! Nice job!
Thanks! 👍
Hay mate, Greg (AKA Moose) here to try and help you with desiding on what kind of air ducting on the Bug Wagon to use? i would try and apply something like what you see on trucks or land cruisers, a snorkel with pipeing to the setup you all ready have? or the scoops you see on race cars to kool there brakes, hope this gives you some idears, keep up the good work your fello hot rodder Moose.
Cheers moose man! Coming up with some great ideas
Looks awesome! I’d say to be on the safe side go ahead and run engine ice as you coolant and have no worry 👍🏻
everytime I see clecos it warms my heart... :D This build is rad AF
They really are the best since sliced bread
Radiator setup looks awesome. I actually think the side openings are good to have allowing air to escape at speed. Too blind of a scoop will hinder air movement. With an electric fan, all you need is air available.
Also do not believe the louvers will be a restriction. Guarantee the air openings total more than the radiator itself has.
Outstanding job as usual! Take care
Thanks Dale!
good morning. This morning I saw your program and I liked the idea of the location of the radiator but it is not better to put the fans down by pulling the air through the radiator than by blowing the radiator that the air bounces back to the fan making it slower and less flow through the radiator. It's my thinking, I could be wrong.
Nope you’re right, dans always work better as ‘pullers’ but I don’t have the room under at the moment
Fan F'n-tastic execution of an incredible idea. that's all I got to say about that.....
Thanks Mark!
Wow this project is very cool and definitely unique
I like the way you rounded the corners and hid the welds. But, If I ever lay a bead that nice (especially vertically) I would not blend it in. I would likely take a picture and blow it up to poster size and post it in the window of the Kombi! Beautiful!!!!!
By the way, I have noticed as of late we are seeing less of your plumbers crack. Now replaced with a cheek shot. I hadn't thought about the possibility of a thong, my first thought was 'Commando' 😲
All I can Say is woooooooow! dude just the thought processes to come up with the idea . so so Kewl ty for sharing
Thanks Ron!
Looks great. I think you are on the right track .
A-and a radiator mount and shroud becomes art! To all the nay sayers worrying about debris, Model A rads are up front/unprotected and seem to hold fine (for the last 100 years). As per the scoop, go Manta Ray maw! Lastly, you and Ben are going to have to get Josh (drinks) a pace maker if you keep scaring him! Go Bennetts Customs, keep moving forward!
Hahaha good things he’s still has good blood pressure
Great work mate, but I think the dimple holes may take away to much air with a flat radiator, just my 2 cents worth I love your fab work Jordan, great channel. Cheers RUSTY.
Reckon the end products is a great piece...imagine that on a standard radiator other than the fin panel...👍👍👍
Something off the topic...the side louvers or vents next to the engine bay...what function do they serve and could they have not been modified to support the radiator and better streamline airflow...just my 2c thought😊😊😊
Has been done but small areas. I think one side will be for the oil filter.
Craftmanship is 110% on this channel as always.
But consider this, each trip will acumulate more leaves/sand/road debris ontop of that rad.
Gorgeous work sir, just something to consider.
Cool (pun intended). The engine has some fins, so maybe you can repurpose the side scoops to route some air to engine bay, to assist the rad. It’s a mellow tune, so it probably doesn’t need a shit-ton of cooling. Side-note: different wheel bolt patterns front and rear...what’s the plan there? Cheers!
Rear hubs will be changed to suit the early wide five style
@@bennettscustomsco yes! Perfect...
What’s your plan for a water pump and thermostat? Tight work as always mate 👍🏻
External pump.
Very well made ! But... I'm afraid the cross beam in front of might create air turbulences that might mess with the air flow. Maybe the scoop should be way advanced toward the front just in front of the beam ?
That cross beam will be getting some modifications!
@@bennettscustomsco Willing to see that, your job is insane of perfection and attention to detail !
Hey Jordan, Yep - another great episode! I'm wondering about the effect of the dimpled holes in the sides of the shroud...while they add strength, might those create a pressure drop, reducing the airflow through the radiator itself? Anticipation grows while we wait for the glorious sound of the radial!!!
Wow that’s a work of art. Is there any concern about fastening aluminum directly to steel?
More with stainless but will all be painted anyways.
you should always have a copper barriers between alu and steel
You could have used the cooling system from the Brazilian T2 Diesel Combi. They made them over there with the 1.6l.
The radiator was mounted in the front and had additional boxing around it.
fr.combikombi.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/-combi-kombi-49.jpg
fr.combikombi.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/-combi-kombi-1.jpeg
Great work,love watching your videos..
Smooth! What's the plan on filling an burping the system? I'm sure you have it figured I'm just curious.
It will have an external revisor that will be near engine and have pressurized cap for filling.
@@bennettscustomsco nice can't wait to hear those pipes singing!
Yo dude the only problem I see with the thinner gage panel is drumming or flapping in breeze as it were. The center of the louvered panel will be moving up and down like a drum head and could possibly make a noise that will drive the driver nuts over time, not mention the possibility of tearing the panel right off and exposing the radiator to damage.
Filling the rad with coolant be via an expansion tank? Or u make an extended filler neck and filler cap?
It will have an expansion tank near motor
Master Craftsman At Work
Please Do Not Disturb
Always Disturbed haha
Jordan I no the louvers look the part but wouldn’t a reverse of the top be better at releasing the air flow. Like a baking tray with one end missing. Proof of the pudding will be when you give her a road test. Cheers Tim. (Have you gone Aussie and started wherein a thong!!!) cheeky. Tim the Pom.
Not a bad idea and definitely something I thought about. Really the first road test will tell me a lot of what needs to happen
Keeping with the aircraft theme a smoothed obround air inlet (as per cesna) would have been great. Huge amounts of work and skill required though. Regards
You may want to screen the opening so that rocks and items dont come crashing down on top of the radiator
What is it that you put on the grinder cutting disc when cutting aluminium? Keep up the good work.
Wax! Makes a massive difference when cutting aluminum
Looks the goods man. Well done.
Any furry possum would be fortunate and honored to see that undercarriage in it’s last living moment. Well done!
Catch and release! To the dinner plate
beautiful
One day you're going to have a BIG mess to clean up
💩💩💩💩💩💩😂 Poor old mate is going drop a load when you scare him.
Hahaha
Are you going to flare the hole in your breeches as well?
Butt trumpet 🎺
........and you need to teach Karl how to drive that Metric Tape Measure 😂😂😂
would staggering the louvers make sense for strength and looks?
It's like the intake on a fighter jet directing the airflow into the engine.
I reckon the basking whale method will generate a massive amount of turbulent airflow. It probably won't be efficient but it might be enough. I can't picture where the fan will sit and how it will interact with that airflow.
Are you removing aluminum buildup on the cutting disc by running it periodically through the wad of foil (or whatever that chunk o' something is)?
Well nevermind I got to the wax part!
I really like what you're doing but steel and ally, no bueno... look at what happens to old Landies, the ally literally just crumbles in contact with steel after years. put a sort of gasket between the two metals, even the fasteners have to not be in contact ideally.
Will be running painted panels and gaskets
Something you might consider if all else fails; modify you radiator to a triple pass unit. This is something the NASCAR boys have been doing for years.
What kind of wax is that you're putting on the roloc disc and cut wheels?
steel on aluminum no good bud, dissimilar metals and all. Fear the galvanic corrosion!
Painted and will have gasket.
First thumbs up, woohoo
👍🏽
will you be using a waterless coolant ?
Could be a good idea!
Aluminum Composite Protective film.
There it is!
A P-51 air scoop for your aircraft engine.
Like, subscribe, share and buy merchandise because. Daddy needs a new pair of pants!😵💫🤣😂. Tom and I always enjoy the show!
What is that silver stuff that u are using on your cutting disk
39:45 what about stones, powder, dirty, water, tree leaves and objects in general?
I'm not sure is this is the best place to mount a radiator, imho.
Will have a screen.
@@bennettscustomsco considering also that the hot water wants to go up and not down...
think about hot air recirculating through dimple die holes. l hear the comment the come in the bottom and out the top. based on an experience had to trouble shoot.
It may sound fantastic but I wouldn't bet the farm on it. A guy I went to school with put straight pipe (no muffler) dual exhaust on a 4 cyl with 2 cyl per pipe. That was the crappiest sounding thing I've ever seen rolling down the street.
Yeah that would sounds terrible! Let wait and see
👍🏼👍🏼
They don't know much about aircraft engines if they think that will last long
Hint. aircraft engines are designed to run at constant RPM's not rapidly changing .
This is why these modifications always have a very short service life.
People keep asking why a motor in a plane is good for 1200 but only 600 to 800 in a vehicle
In a nut shell, it's the same city vs highway miles
These motors are designed for vehicles and have been tested through out various on and off conditions. Performing flawlessly.
"Not now Cato!"
I watching you cutting the card board with your knife and maybe you should use a leather workers swivel knife.
How are the whales?
Yeah definitely pretty crazy to see