JayinMI Think about it a tad closer, most if not all rotors/drums have a tolerance for the holes to fit over studs that might not be 100% straight. Also, if you have 5 lug nuts torqued to say 100# each or 500# clamping force per rim, I’m betting you’d brake something else before getting the rotor/drum to move. Lastly, the only thing really pulling on the rotor, Because the tire/wheel are mainly torquing the axle via the studs, would be the brakes. I hope my logic and understanding makes sense, there’s a lot of people who have used this technique without issue. Thanks for the support! JD
JayinMI You won’t need to drill the holes out as far as I did, I went larger than I needed to. If you’re more attentive than I was you will get a tighter fit. Thanks again stay safe! JD
Mike Lomsak I was going to do just that, add a whole new set of holes. But then some friends from the track who race S10’s said all I need is to enlarge the existing holes. I actually didn’t need to enlarge the holes as far as I did to get them to fit. I learned some things about doing this job I can use on the next one! Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! I hope you subscribe JD
CesarConH This is too funny, you say this! Years ago, early 2000’s, I was taking a Biology class And the kids in the class used to ask me to talk because I sounded like the kid on Family Guy! 🙄. It must be true! 😀😀😀
Darian Rodriguez Added cost to the build, it’s perfectly acceptable to buy custom rotors with a Chevy pattern to a Ford 8.8 differential. Maybe you could find a factory Chevy rotor interchangeable would be great! 👍
HeadFlowInc ya that's what I meant was to get a OEM Chevy rotor but thinking about it now I'm guessing the center bore is different as well and if so is it to big or small
Darian Rodriguez I’m not sure about the center locating bore size. You’ve got me wondering if there could be an oem rotor...🤔 There are videos showing how to mark and drill any bolt pattern, it wouldn’t be to difficult to add the 5- 4 3/4 pattern.
HeadFlowInc lol hell ya if so it would be easier if the rotor Center bore was too small and we can just bore it out or if we just found one that just fit
good video......i have a 07 dodge charger with 14mm studs and i want to use rims from a 05-09 mustang...now the mustang rim hubs are a little bit smaller..once i get the hubs made larger on the rims to fit .the other problem is that the mustang had 1\2 studs can i still use my 14mm studs with these rims..?..or should i get them redrilled to use 1\2 wheel studs..?...
I’m guessing here you’ll need to verify, could you enlarge the hubs and stud holes? I mean there’s roughly 1mm difference between the stud diameter. But make sure the lugnuts have the same sealing/contact angle to the rim! Other areas to verify would be the back spacing and internal diameter to clear brake calipers etc. I have no experience doing what you’re wanting but it sounds interesting! Let me know what you find! JD
@@HeadFlowInc if i have to enlarge the hole to 1\2 thats ok ith me....the mustang rims are for the summer...so if i can use my 14mm studs then i can still use my charger rims for winter...
George Carter I don’t think enlarging the 1/2” + would be the best way. It may work but it would be much better to transfer the new 5 x 5 pattern and drill new holes/pattern. There’s +- 500# of clamping force per rim holding the rotor from moving, with this in mind the rotor should not move in service but in theory the least amount the rotor could move the better. How are you changing the axle flange bolt pattern? JD
Allen Tomlin Good idea, are the center hubs the same size? As long as the hubs are the same size you could locate easily transfer the new pattern using a spare Chevy axle removed from the differential. It would be helpful to compare the hubs... 🤔👍
Actually not safe, as u press the brake and accelerate the rotor can slip back and forth, putting undo pressure on the stud causing it to fail. Y risk it, if your going through the work of drilling your axle, just drill the rotor. I've seen this done on a 240 as and the studs sheared off, and a 4cyl 240 has no power to speak of. DON'T RISK IT!!!
Louis Ward You would think more people would understand it is impossible for the rotor to move at all during braking or acceleration here’s why. You have five lug nuts torqued to around 100# each, there for each rim, tire & rotor are sandwiched together by 500# of clamping force; Nothing is moving. I suspect if you knew someone, saw someone, or heard of someone who broke rear wheel studs they either had the wrong length or the wrong type of Lugnuts or the lug nuts weren’t tight. If you were doing an 8.8 swap like I did you’re more than welcome to just stay with the Ford bolt pattern and buy rims that appropriately fit your application. As for me I wanted to stay GM Pattern just for ease of swapping rims rotating tires etc. Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it!
If you haven’t bought rims yet just buy rims with the Ford pattern! At the time I already had a set of rims and didn’t want to buy any. I agree the 1/2” studs are much stronger! JD
yeah and everytime you stab the brakes you're going to hear a clunk.. no thanks. I will take the extra time and drill both the axle and rotors to match the correct pattern. Do it right and you will do it once!
Jacob Baldwin If you think for 1 second that a rotor sandwiched between the rim and axle flange with a clamping force of ~500-600# can move your mistaken. Not going to happen! You know how I know? Because this isn’t a new idea and is currently used on 9 second 800 hp race cars. 🙄🙄🙄 But it’s not your fault for not knowing, Merry Christmas!🎄🎁
stock rotors arent tight on a lug pattern anyways. the fact that the rotor is centered by the center bore is the most important part. ive seen people redrill patterns and have it off center or its not lined up by the center bore and the rotor shakes up and down creating an imbalance. ive seen stocks that arent centered. this is pretty clever and i would recommend over running spacers to change lug patterns. at the end of the day if the rotor is able to move when the brakes are applied you have some major problems and it has nothing to do with making a hole bigger.
![Building a Ford 9 Inch Rear Axle (The Easy Way) #JuiceboxBronco [EP10]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34QWKF8Nfu4/mqdefault.jpg)
Man my biggest concern about the ford 8.8 was the lug pattern but problem solved thanks to you man thanks.
Dang, you are awesome sir. Thank you for posting this “how to.” I’ll be trying this myself this evening on my axles.
Bolt pattern adapters also work great to properly locate for the axles. Thanks for watching and the feedback, Good luck on your project! 👍👍👍
Both videos were very helpful thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
thanks good information when a person is building there own instead of buying
Couldn't the rotor twist on the center under launch and possible damage the wheel studs? Just a thought, since I know you're building a race truck.
JayinMI Think about it a tad closer, most if not all rotors/drums have a tolerance for the holes to fit over studs that might not be 100% straight. Also, if you have 5 lug nuts torqued to say 100# each or 500# clamping force per rim, I’m betting you’d brake something else before getting the rotor/drum to move. Lastly, the only thing really pulling on the rotor, Because the tire/wheel are mainly torquing the axle via the studs, would be the brakes. I hope my logic and understanding makes sense, there’s a lot of people who have used this technique without issue. Thanks for the support! JD
@@HeadFlowInc Fair enough. That tip might be very helpful to me. Thanks.
JayinMI You won’t need to drill the holes out as far as I did, I went larger than I needed to. If you’re more attentive than I was you will get a tighter fit. Thanks again stay safe! JD
Great that's very good information. Thanks now can do mine.👍👍👍
Who ever GAVE THUMPS DOWN..MUST BE A BLIND.. THIS IS V.GOOD👍THANS FOR THE TIME
William C You can use a smaller drill bit than I used as well. I’ve had zero issues at all! Thanks for the support I appreciate it! 👍👍👍
Thank you......great info.
Brilliant
Why didnt you just drill the rotor when you drilled your axle flanges?
Mike Lomsak I was going to do just that, add a whole new set of holes. But then some friends from the track who race S10’s said all I need is to enlarge the existing holes. I actually didn’t need to enlarge the holes as far as I did to get them to fit. I learned some things about doing this job I can use on the next one! Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! I hope you subscribe JD
@@HeadFlowInc So, instead of 3/4",...maybe 11/16"?
Can I buy a set A rotors and axles from you
I don’t have any inventory, my apologies. JD
You sound like Peter Griffins son from family guy😂
CesarConH This is too funny, you say this! Years ago, early 2000’s, I was taking a Biology class And the kids in the class used to ask me to talk because I sounded like the kid on Family Guy! 🙄. It must be true! 😀😀😀
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for this video
You can use a slightly smaller drill bit and still clear the studs. Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
why not get 5 x 4 3/4 bolt pattern rotors????
Darian Rodriguez Added cost to the build, it’s perfectly acceptable to buy custom rotors with a Chevy pattern to a Ford 8.8 differential. Maybe you could find a factory Chevy rotor interchangeable would be great! 👍
HeadFlowInc ya that's what I meant was to get a OEM Chevy rotor but thinking about it now I'm guessing the center bore is different as well and if so is it to big or small
Darian Rodriguez I’m not sure about the center locating bore size. You’ve got me wondering if there could be an oem rotor...🤔
There are videos showing how to mark and drill any bolt pattern, it wouldn’t be to difficult to add the 5- 4 3/4 pattern.
HeadFlowInc lol hell ya if so it would be easier if the rotor Center bore was too small and we can just bore it out or if we just found one that just fit
Darian Rodriguez Definitely! 👍
Thanks for this video sir
You can drill the holes smaller than I did in the video and still make them fit! Thanks for watching! JD
good video......i have a 07 dodge charger with 14mm studs and i want to use rims from a 05-09 mustang...now the mustang rim hubs are a little bit smaller..once i get the hubs made larger on the rims to fit .the other problem is that the mustang had 1\2 studs can i still use my 14mm studs with these rims..?..or should i get them redrilled to use 1\2 wheel studs..?...
I’m guessing here you’ll need to verify, could you enlarge the hubs and stud holes? I mean there’s roughly 1mm difference between the stud diameter. But make sure the lugnuts have the same sealing/contact angle to the rim!
Other areas to verify would be the back spacing and internal diameter to clear brake calipers etc. I have no experience doing what you’re wanting but it sounds interesting! Let me know what you find! JD
@@HeadFlowInc i want to use my 14mm studs and lug nuts . on mustang rims..my lug nut surface does match up with the mustang rims..
@@HeadFlowInc if i have to enlarge the hole to 1\2 thats ok ith me....the mustang rims are for the summer...so if i can use my 14mm studs then i can still use my charger rims for winter...
could i use stud bushings instead of drilling them bigger..?..
Would this work for the 5x5 pattern? I’m doing an 8.8 for my 87 c10
George Carter I don’t think enlarging the 1/2” + would be the best way. It may work but it would be much better to transfer the new 5 x 5 pattern and drill new holes/pattern.
There’s +- 500# of clamping force per rim holding the rotor from moving, with this in mind the rotor should not move in service but in theory the least amount the rotor could move the better.
How are you changing the axle flange bolt pattern? JD
Just use a transfer punch and transfer the pattern off the Chevy axle
Allen Tomlin Good idea, are the center hubs the same size? As long as the hubs are the same size you could locate easily transfer the new pattern using a spare Chevy axle removed from the differential.
It would be helpful to compare the hubs... 🤔👍
Good idea 👍
Actually not safe, as u press the brake and accelerate the rotor can slip back and forth, putting undo pressure on the stud causing it to fail. Y risk it, if your going through the work of drilling your axle, just drill the rotor. I've seen this done on a 240 as and the studs sheared off, and a 4cyl 240 has no power to speak of. DON'T RISK IT!!!
Louis Ward You would think more people would understand it is impossible for the rotor to move at all during braking or acceleration here’s why. You have five lug nuts torqued to around 100# each, there for each rim, tire & rotor are sandwiched together by 500# of clamping force; Nothing is moving.
I suspect if you knew someone, saw someone, or heard of someone who broke rear wheel studs they either had the wrong length or the wrong type of Lugnuts or the lug nuts weren’t tight.
If you were doing an 8.8 swap like I did you’re more than welcome to just stay with the Ford bolt pattern and buy rims that appropriately fit your application. As for me I wanted to stay GM Pattern just for ease of swapping rims rotating tires etc.
Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it!
That's as bad as using spacers. I'll snap studs with any kinda power
So far no issues at 500 whp and plans to turn it up. Thanks Merry Christmas! 🎄
I keep reminding myself the weak ass 7/16 vs 1/2'' studs that come on the Fords.
If you haven’t bought rims yet just buy rims with the Ford pattern! At the time I already had a set of rims and didn’t want to buy any. I agree the 1/2” studs are much stronger! JD
yeah and everytime you stab the brakes you're going to hear a clunk.. no thanks. I will take the extra time and drill both the axle and rotors to match the correct pattern. Do it right and you will do it once!
Jacob Baldwin If you think for 1 second that a rotor sandwiched between the rim and axle flange with a clamping force of ~500-600# can move your mistaken. Not going to happen! You know how I know? Because this isn’t a new idea and is currently used on 9 second 800 hp race cars. 🙄🙄🙄
But it’s not your fault for not knowing, Merry Christmas!🎄🎁
Doesnt happen that way, and even if it could, it would only do it once, the first time you hit the brakes, and that is all.
Shock load is a bitch too
new to cars? think about force and physics then redact your simple minded coment
stock rotors arent tight on a lug pattern anyways. the fact that the rotor is centered by the center bore is the most important part. ive seen people redrill patterns and have it off center or its not lined up by the center bore and the rotor shakes up and down creating an imbalance. ive seen stocks that arent centered. this is pretty clever and i would recommend over running spacers to change lug patterns.
at the end of the day if the rotor is able to move when the brakes are applied you have some major problems and it has nothing to do with making a hole bigger.