Dare I say that old Christine MIGHT be willing to cooperate on some things?? I say that very quietly, from the back of the room. Lol!! Nice work, buddy!
Christine must be very pleased with herself today. She's had her sacrifice of tool steel, and showed her gratefulness by granting you ( and us )29 minutes of gripping video. Nice job!
A shop hack I've successfully used on stripped holes in cast iron is to use a taper pipe plug. Tap the hole for the closest pipe size. Locktite the plug in. Mill/grind flush. Drill and tap for desired fastener. Cast iron plugs are preferable to steel but both will work. 😊
Again thanks for the video Toby! Amazing work as always. One step closer to getting it sent to the radiator shop to get that part made. Can’t wait to see what comes next for Old Christine
i think it was better than that! rhythm good. pitch relationships good. when you're tired and absorbing voc into your bloodstream some quality can be lost 😂 BUT, was it VOC or what's the word...happiness?
Great video! You guys are miracle workers. In the right hands even an inferior machine tool that has been through a fire an left out to the elements for a couple of years can be brought up to the best standard possible (kudos to Squatch Sr)
So it's well known X231 is a prototype, that being said, how close would you say the tolerances of the tin work fit and finish were? Will taking 0.05 off the top tank and whatever you ended up taking off the lower have much of an adverse effect on how the hood lines up with the top tank or will you be comfortable using thicker gaskets on both ends of the core when it comes to assembly of the radiator?
I seem to remember the saying ' been there, done that' and it does not apply to this case. First I am not there and you are doing it not me. As a GM Master tech for 47 years I grew to hate broken bolts. In the 80's and 90's I did a lot of rear axle work. Getting a broken cross tie bolt was going to make a bad day. I found away by slowing down and taking my time to remove broken tie bolts. After reading other comments, Great Job. Most Mechanic's would not be willing to take the subscribers along while recording, with this in mind, you are Mr. Kool.
Good news is in a worse case scenario you can unharden the cast by heating till red and then slowly backing down the heat to try to cool the unit back to room temp in no less than an hour.
Hello from Ireland. As a toolmaker I appreciate the preparation and lengths you go to on those projects. Most of the "restorations" we see on this here end up looking like a machine that was driven thru a vat of paint. Well done and thank you. IH man.
Toby: I’m thinking seriously about CRYOGENIC broken bolt removal. The idea came to me after seeing the doc to have a small skin cancer frozen off. The doc had a liquid nitrogen dispenser that looked like a fancy WD40 can. Think about drilling a hole in the broken bolt then spraying liquid nitrogen in to shrink the stub and break the rust bond. If I could get access to liquid nitrogen it just might work. I saw a post on the N tractor board about a machine shop dealing with a botched broken bolt removal and wallered out hole. They drilled and tapped it for a PIPE plug, installed one with locktite, milled the top off and then drilled and tapped a proper hole. I have to figure out how to subscribe. I never miss a new video here. Great channel and great camera work!
Hey squatch, after you make good progress on X231 and put your H back together, what project do you have in mind next to work on? You mentioned in the past your RD6 and a grader. I'm curious what all projects you have in mind.
I have a milling machine identical to yours that cost $800 20 years ago. I had no illusions that it would do what a $4000 milling machine will do, but it will do basic milling operations quite well. You just have to recognize its limitations, as you and Senior do.
*- Excellent debriefing of the failed procedures you went through to remove the rusted bolts.* *- Thank you. AND, by happenstance:* *- Would you happen to know if any metallurgy information exist about certain water minerals somehow producing a more amplified chemical bonding dynamic per the rusting chemistry of cast iron and steel bolts?* *~ ~ ~ ~ ~* *- If any of your viewers have access to university inorganic chemistry professors or polytechnic schools, or metallurgy institutions, maybe they could research this for you.* *- My bet is that all professors would find this a most interesting question and see it as a possible area for a Masters Degree Thesis.* *- I ask this because you detailed that your broad experience seemed to suggest that this particular "rusting tight" situation was very unusual and perhaps unique...and so my mind tried to come up with a possible explanation of "Why".* *- Both you and your dad seem to enjoy the academic rigor and regimen of using proper accuracy and precision at the right time, which is the hallmark of good science. I fully expect that all Chemistry Departments would appreciate this in you and you may well wind up with new friends.*
I like the superstitious undertone, I´m of that nature,too- because sometimes the Shopgods work in misterious ways, put it that way. I have to have Helicoils done, too on the hub motor of my ebike and decided it is time for a new toy: a drill/mill table with accessories. Wasn´t cheap but a good alternative (for me) to a real column drill/mill. Some people despise these (basically) drill holder things but it gives me good base to work with. Take a look at the Wabeco system, looks just like mine, same quality. I´m very happy to get it, I only work with aluminium, mild steel and wood so I think it can handle what I´m gonna throw at it. My take on Your machine: it would have been a Godsend to me. I´d have done just the same if offered.
I am jealous that you can keep unfinished/unprotected steel & iron out like that long term. I live in Alabama and the humidity, even in a HVAC controlled shop will flash rust in hours to a day, HOWEVER, I am not jealous of your winters or corrosion caused by your road salts.
you have some serius skills when it comes to caterpillar,,and farm tractors ,,and ford trucks ,but your vacuum cleaner maintance not so much !!!!!!!!!! maybe a oil dripper on the top bearing ?????????just pulling your leg I could not resist haaaaa. sorry, tanks are looking great .
I spotted a MAC Tools logo inside your Snapon "Bad Day At Work" drawer. Tsk,tsk,tsk 😂. I hear you on rusty bolt removal. I'm originally from a salt air marine climate in the Pacific Northwest so I feel your pain. Oh, and don't replace that sick vacuum; it adds character to the videos.
I don't know about many others, but when it matters I drill out broken bolts every time. I hate welding nuts for the reasons you state and never do it. On large bolts that go go through a part I drill a hole and torch them out in sections... think Undercarriage Bolts on a excavator car body. Keylocking inserts especially the thin wall variety are my favorite when there is room for them. Good stuff...Cheers.
Red and Green rule now. But what pride someone had to drive his new 445 into the corn crib alley for first time. Getting the rusted down to nubbens bolts out of bolster to take radiator out a challenge. Not to mention massive cast grill on front of this B-10 backhoe. Thanks for inspiration.
It's no wonder you have a large audience. Your a great narrator, your subject is fascinating and you actually have the camera focused on what your talking about.
Squatch, is there a Home Depot or a Lowes near you? I will gladly buy you a new shopvac online and you only have to pick it up, or if you prefer, I can have it delivered.
Do you need to add length to the radiator core to make up for the machining of the surfaces that took metal away or is it so minimal that you are not going to worry about it. Great work! Enjoying every minute of your videos.
I remember you using a candle to loosen a clutch pack: people quizzing you on why you didn’t try a particular method to free a bolt tells me they have only seen one video of yours.
Up to around 4:08 minutes in I really felt your pain. Then to see you stuck that threaded dowel into that wallowed out hole and see all the slop just brought it home. I’m no expert like you, but that exactly how my tries at removing rusted broke bolts have gone. Great content as usual.
And he said " cut to the chase" without a quiver of laughter in his voice. Great Pun. If there are two more qualified people to be on that pointy end of a drill bit, I have not a clue who it would be. It just does not get any better, maybe, remotely, maybe, their equal, maybe - but better? I don't think so.
Great video! The sacrifices to Christine must’ve appeased her. Last weekend watched the entire playlist it is worth watching from the beginning. Little by little getting there.
Your patience and attention to detail is just as important as any tools in your arsenal. Curious, do you wear a dust mask when grinding or machining cast iron. I always do as if not I will wheeze and have difficult time breathing for a couple days, just don’t want anything to cause you problems as you age.
Top tank has a bolt-on piece that connects to the steel tube that feeds from the cylinder heads and they are joined by a short section of rubber hose. The bottom tank just has that short press-in sleeve that the much longer lower radiator hose connects to. The other end of that lower hose connects directly to the bottom of the water pump.
It's taken years to get this far. So I just re-binge-watched the entire X231 series. I believe the front pedestal is the last heavy piece. I'm really looking forward to the rest of this project. I'm really disappointed with the paint situation, but I'm sure you'll build every bridge and then cross it.
As a diesel mechanic myself for over 35yrs those are the hardest bolts get out of cast iron. It easier and faster to do it the way you are doing. I use them all the time.
This is a prototype, prototypes get taken apart all the time to either fix or revision parts of them. It's part of the process, part of the plan. Betcha anything those thread holes are loose and stretched. That's why they stuck, and when that happens... (loose hole + rust) you just don't stand a chance. It's the thread variant of rust jacking between frame parts on a truck. It's like me, putting a jack against the ceiling on a shop and telling the newbie to try to lift the truck from below (i may or may not have done this, i confirm nothing). No amount of penetrant or heat or luck can get you out of the mess that comes with these types of rusted threads. It is what it is.
We don’t attempt any heating or brazing repairs on any of these 10X prototype castings because our skill level is not high enough to confidently perform that work without causing other damage. So cold repairs like these inserts of various types is all that’s left 👍
I have read about the diamond cutters who had the task of cutting some of the largest diamonds ever found. They would spend years studying the stone and planning how to cleave it, all the while knowing that a proper cut would increase the value of the diamond while a single wrong hammer tap could destroy it completely. Squatch takes the same care with these one of a kind tractor parts. From a rough, rusty piece of iron he creates a beautiful gem. 💎
Drilling on the 10X castings, for sure. The track work didn't scare me as much, it was just heavy, dirty, and repetitious - but pretty tough to mess up lol ;-)
I’ve got to comment. Your shop vac really makes me smile. One of mine sounds just the same! It will probably last forever, mine has out lasted two newer ones.
Real Question: I know cast iron is a bear to even bronze repair due to heat stresses. If there were a specialty oven could be used to heat large cast iron parts to 500f, and silica sand was used to insulate the areas not being worked on, would it make brazing easier? Asking because I have a hair brained idea....
We took this casting to Midwest Cylinder Head in Nevada, Iowa to have the brazing repair done to the end of the power steering bore, and they basically performed a process similar to what you described. They slowly heated the whole casting in a large oven, then transferred it to another oven that looks similar to a sandblasting cabinet - it has door openings that the welder can do his work through while the rest of the casting is being kept hot. They then remove the casting and put it in a controlled cool-down chamber to slowly release all the heat over the next day or two. This heating process still didn’t do anything to soften the prior overheated areas though.
With the material you’ve taken off the top tank and the bottom bolster to flatten the sealing surfaces up, what’s the plan to essentially “make up” for that material? Thicker gasket? Taller radiator core?
Yes, all of the above plus maybe even a couple of other minor mods to make things fit back together. We’ll make a more concrete plan once the radiator guy tells us which direction he wants to go - if it ends up being building an all-new core then he’ll just make it to fit whatever size the opening is 👍
I saw a setup to sharpen used taps way back in the early 80's. The guy had made a jig that would hold the tap on his surface grinder and used a thin grinding wheel that had a rounded edge. 2 or 3 passes on the flutes and he said they would cut like new. He would wait until he had enough of them to be worth the setup time so he could do a bunch of them at one time.
2:05 you forgot "why didn't you take a time machine back to the 50s?" 😂 Thanks for sharing your project with us. 30 seconds of scrolling is about all any of us can do in our modern patience mind, so hopefully the question and answer are in the top 100 lines 😊
Speaking for myself, I was holding my breath while you tapped that last hole as we are all too familiar with the concept of snatching defeat from the jaws of victory at the last moment.
Awesome job! The amount of patience you have for this stuff is just unbelievable. I truly love to see the these 1 of a kind tractors get the love and respect you give thim and seeing the history of America's farming ingenuity preserved. Amazing job once again.
Toby - for the threads that did not require Keensert's - did you consider using Helicoils? - or did you determine that the threads were in a sound condition?
Well!! This old tractor certainly tests your patience. Painstaking work trying to salvage old machines with broken bolt and studs, you have both done a sterling job getting the bolt out and refurbing the threaded holes.
Have you ever thought of getting an electric heat inductor for bolts I held off kinda wanting one for years but just always used the torch but then I was working on a trucking that had some frozen bolts next to the diesel tank so no chance I was brining out the torch but those things work amazing don't have to worry about flames and heats up just the bolt not the entire case so seems to work better sometimes honestly and saves you on acetylene which ain't cheap either and less smoke and fumes in a closed up shop
@squatch253 yeah I held off for too long should of got one sooner I need up getting the newest one the venom mini ductor it has the most heat power can find them on sale time to time
Hey there Squatch been watching all your videos must say great content and always looking out for your next video and really speaking don't matter what you post but you always post good stuff, just a note on your title dont mean to be calling you out your title says An Squatch production it is actually supposed to be A Squatch Production sorry its just an english vocabulary thing
The usage is correct, it’s not “Squatch”, it’s just “S253”. So when you say it out loud, it’s “An S253 Studios Production” and not “A Squatch253 Studios Production”.
Meaning no disrespect when I ask this question. I noticed you're not using drilling oil and maybe I didn't see it. What is the reasoning? Just for my knowledge.
Cast iron is always worked dry. Any steel that I’m drilling out here is minimal and I’d rather not have surplus cutting oil seeping into the pores of the cast iron 👍
Learned a lot of new things for my bad day drawer. And most shop vacs seem to get that wail as they are banshees at heart. Salvaged one with no scream but a tricky switch, sometimes no on, sometimes no off. One day I might fix it!
Absolutely beautiful work, Squatch.
I think your next restoration needs to be the shop vac
I think that one should be for 1st April 🤣🤣🤣
Noooo! Every time he turns it off, I get a good chuckle.
@@johnbize5736 sounds like a dying elephant 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Amazing job and great luck too
Anyone wanting to grumble about inserts should just remember: its a radiator flange, not a race engine cylinder head.
Dare I say that old Christine MIGHT be willing to cooperate on some things?? I say that very quietly, from the back of the room. Lol!! Nice work, buddy!
Or just lulling you into a false sense of security 👍
Back away carefully she might go for blood
Don't spook her
Christine must be very pleased with herself today. She's had her sacrifice of tool steel, and showed her gratefulness by granting you ( and us )29 minutes of gripping video. Nice job!
"I'm having a bad day drawer" 😂 I love that one! Those upside down carriage bolts to level up your work is a great idea. 👍
A shop hack I've successfully used on stripped holes in cast iron is to use a taper pipe plug. Tap the hole for the closest pipe size. Locktite the plug in. Mill/grind flush. Drill and tap for desired fastener. Cast iron plugs are preferable to steel but both will work. 😊
I’ve always had good luck using anchorlube when trying to drill and tap hardened cast, a little bottle is cheap and handy to have around.
Amazing work Toby! So happy to see X231 getting some more love. Cant wait to see more!
Again thanks for the video Toby! Amazing work as always. One step closer to getting it sent to the radiator shop to get that part made. Can’t wait to see what comes next for Old Christine
I don't think singing is your strongest talent, but your repair on those holes is by far some of the best work I've ever seen!
i think it was better than that! rhythm good. pitch relationships good. when you're tired and absorbing voc into your bloodstream some quality can be lost 😂 BUT, was it VOC or what's the word...happiness?
@karlfischer1011 you are so right! 🤣
Great video!
You guys are miracle workers.
In the right hands even an inferior machine tool that has been through a fire an left out to the elements for a couple of years can be brought up to the best standard possible (kudos to Squatch Sr)
That little FREE mill do a great job! Showing Christine respect is working. 👍👍👍
So it's well known X231 is a prototype, that being said, how close would you say the tolerances of the tin work fit and finish were? Will taking 0.05 off the top tank and whatever you ended up taking off the lower have much of an adverse effect on how the hood lines up with the top tank or will you be comfortable using thicker gaskets on both ends of the core when it comes to assembly of the radiator?
I seem to remember the saying ' been there, done that' and it does not apply to this case. First I am not there and you are doing it not me. As a GM Master tech for 47 years I grew to hate broken bolts. In the 80's and 90's I did a lot of rear axle work. Getting a broken cross tie bolt was going to make a bad day. I found away by slowing down and taking my time to remove broken tie bolts. After reading other comments, Great Job. Most Mechanic's would not be willing to take the subscribers along while recording, with this in mind, you are Mr. Kool.
that vacuum is screaming for a episode.
Good news is in a worse case scenario you can unharden the cast by heating till red and then slowly backing down the heat to try to cool the unit back to room temp in no less than an hour.
Hello from Ireland. As a toolmaker I appreciate the preparation and lengths you go to on those projects. Most of the "restorations" we see on this here end up looking like a machine that was driven thru a vat of paint. Well done and thank you. IH man.
Keyboard Warriors -- These are not HowTo vids!!!, they are results with tools & Knowledge back ground!! Enjoy the Squatch videos.
Toby:
I’m thinking seriously about CRYOGENIC broken bolt removal. The idea came to me after seeing the doc to have a small skin cancer frozen off. The doc had a liquid nitrogen dispenser that looked like a fancy WD40 can.
Think about drilling a hole in the broken bolt then spraying liquid nitrogen in to shrink the stub and break the rust bond. If I could get access to liquid nitrogen it just might work.
I saw a post on the N tractor board about a machine shop dealing with a botched broken bolt removal and wallered out hole. They drilled and tapped it for a PIPE plug, installed one with locktite, milled the top off and then drilled and tapped a proper hole.
I have to figure out how to subscribe. I never miss a new video here. Great channel and great camera work!
Glyptal buzz….. there’s a thumbnail for ya !!!
Wheezy the shop vac…always has the last word !!!!
Great video !!!
Hey squatch, after you make good progress on X231 and put your H back together, what project do you have in mind next to work on? You mentioned in the past your RD6 and a grader. I'm curious what all projects you have in mind.
I have a milling machine identical to yours that cost $800 20 years ago. I had no illusions that it would do what a $4000 milling machine will do, but it will do basic milling operations quite well. You just have to recognize its limitations, as you and Senior do.
*- Excellent debriefing of the failed procedures you went through to remove the rusted bolts.*
*- Thank you. AND, by happenstance:*
*- Would you happen to know if any metallurgy information exist about certain water minerals somehow producing a more amplified chemical bonding dynamic per the rusting chemistry of cast iron and steel bolts?*
*~ ~ ~ ~ ~*
*- If any of your viewers have access to university inorganic chemistry professors or polytechnic schools, or metallurgy institutions, maybe they could research this for you.*
*- My bet is that all professors would find this a most interesting question and see it as a possible area for a Masters Degree Thesis.*
*- I ask this because you detailed that your broad experience seemed to suggest that this particular "rusting tight" situation was very unusual and perhaps unique...and so my mind tried to come up with a possible explanation of "Why".*
*- Both you and your dad seem to enjoy the academic rigor and regimen of using proper accuracy and precision at the right time, which is the hallmark of good science. I fully expect that all Chemistry Departments would appreciate this in you and you may well wind up with new friends.*
I like the superstitious undertone, I´m of that nature,too- because sometimes the Shopgods work in misterious ways, put it that way.
I have to have Helicoils done, too on the hub motor of my ebike and decided it is time for a new toy: a drill/mill table with accessories.
Wasn´t cheap but a good alternative (for me) to a real column drill/mill. Some people despise these (basically) drill holder things but it gives me good base to work with.
Take a look at the Wabeco system, looks just like mine, same quality. I´m very happy to get it, I only work with aluminium, mild steel and wood so I think it can handle what I´m gonna throw at it.
My take on Your machine: it would have been a Godsend to me. I´d have done just the same if offered.
I am jealous that you can keep unfinished/unprotected steel & iron out like that long term. I live in Alabama and the humidity, even in a HVAC controlled shop will flash rust in hours to a day, HOWEVER, I am not jealous of your winters or corrosion caused by your road salts.
you have some serius skills when it comes to caterpillar,,and farm tractors ,,and ford trucks ,but your vacuum cleaner maintance not so much !!!!!!!!!! maybe a oil dripper on the top bearing ?????????just pulling your leg I could not resist haaaaa. sorry, tanks are looking great .
I spotted a MAC Tools logo inside your Snapon "Bad Day At Work" drawer. Tsk,tsk,tsk 😂. I hear you on rusty bolt removal. I'm originally from a salt air marine climate in the Pacific Northwest so I feel your pain. Oh, and don't replace that sick vacuum; it adds character to the videos.
After 50+ years in the trade,this is one of the best presentations of the institution of the Keen insert .THANK YOU SIR!!!!!
I don't know about many others, but when it matters I drill out broken bolts every time. I hate welding nuts for the reasons you state and never do it. On large bolts that go go through a part I drill a hole and torch them out in sections... think Undercarriage Bolts on a excavator car body. Keylocking inserts especially the thin wall variety are my favorite when there is room for them. Good stuff...Cheers.
It was a bit more than luck with your troublesome hole. Some very careful centering and careful drilling saved the day. Thanks for the video.
Red and Green rule now. But what pride someone had to drive his new 445 into the corn crib alley for first time. Getting the rusted down to nubbens bolts out of bolster to take radiator out a challenge. Not to mention massive cast grill on front of this B-10 backhoe. Thanks for inspiration.
It's no wonder you have a large audience. Your a great narrator, your subject is fascinating and you actually have the camera focused on what your talking about.
Squatch, is there a Home Depot or a Lowes near you? I will gladly buy you a new shopvac online and you only have to pick it up, or if you prefer, I can have it delivered.
Hello I am a good friend of yours, who's employed at the Mille Lacs Grand Casino, Edward Polinder.
Do you need to add length to the radiator core to make up for the machining of the surfaces that took metal away or is it so minimal that you are not going to worry about it.
Great work! Enjoying every minute of your videos.
I have a 1934 Allis Chalmers WC #1867 or #6718 For Sale and a IHC full Steel in excellent condition For Sale
I remember you using a candle to loosen a clutch pack: people quizzing you on why you didn’t try a particular method to free a bolt tells me they have only seen one video of yours.
Amazing work Squatch. That's the type of equipment and level I would love to aspire too. Thanks for giving me some hope.
I hope your eyes are recovery well but your vacuumcleaner maybe need some Strepsils ( throat and coff medicine) ;-)
It’s always nice when you expect the worst but end up pleasantly surprised. That was some quality machine work
Up to around 4:08 minutes in I really felt your pain. Then to see you stuck that threaded dowel into that wallowed out hole and see all the slop just brought it home. I’m no expert like you, but that exactly how my tries at removing rusted broke bolts have gone. Great content as usual.
And he said " cut to the chase" without a quiver of laughter in his voice. Great Pun. If there are two more qualified people to be on that pointy end of a drill bit, I have not a clue who it would be. It just does not get any better, maybe, remotely, maybe, their equal, maybe - but better? I don't think so.
Great video! The sacrifices to Christine must’ve appeased her. Last weekend watched the entire playlist it is worth watching from the beginning. Little by little getting there.
The homemade designed tooling is great.
Enjoy watching you get yourself in the hole and the 'machine' the way out...
Well, I thought I watched this one and commented but I can not find it. So Great Job on the repair and recovery!
Hi Squatchy. Years ago I used one of the inserts in a engine block when the thread for a head boalt let go. Worked well.
Another great video. 👍
Your patience and attention to detail is just as important as any tools in your arsenal. Curious, do you wear a dust mask when grinding or machining cast iron. I always do as if not I will wheeze and have difficult time breathing for a couple days, just don’t want anything to cause you problems as you age.
How does the radiator connect to the block? Is it a flex coupling? ie rubber hose.. Will you have to make up for the removed material ? Enjoy
Top tank has a bolt-on piece that connects to the steel tube that feeds from the cylinder heads and they are joined by a short section of rubber hose. The bottom tank just has that short press-in sleeve that the much longer lower radiator hose connects to. The other end of that lower hose connects directly to the bottom of the water pump.
It's taken years to get this far. So I just re-binge-watched the entire X231 series. I believe the front pedestal is the last heavy piece. I'm really looking forward to the rest of this project. I'm really disappointed with the paint situation, but I'm sure you'll build every bridge and then cross it.
Honestly, anyone questioning your judgement calls on handling mechanics and repairs really has not been paying attention.
Nice Repair . I liked the way you picked your options . Your success proves everything .
Please please please🙏 throw a couple of drops of oil on that vacuum motor bearing. Makes me cringe every time I hear it. 😧
How many honest man hours are in fixing the threads on those tanks? Include the time to build the fixtures for the mill. 25? 30?
Sounds like a new shop vacuum in the near future.😂 Or is it Christine’s demon that got sucked in to it and trying to get out a back into christine.
The camera angle made the first pass on the bill look like a trench. I know you were just trueing it up.
As a diesel mechanic myself for over 35yrs those are the hardest bolts get out of cast iron. It easier and faster to do it the way you are doing. I use them all the time.
Come only fans of the channel we need to get these guys a new shop vacuum his sounds like is suffering from asthma
Its to bad you cant step in front of "Christine" and say "show me" and have it pull together
This is a prototype, prototypes get taken apart all the time to either fix or revision parts of them. It's part of the process, part of the plan. Betcha anything those thread holes are loose and stretched. That's why they stuck, and when that happens... (loose hole + rust) you just don't stand a chance. It's the thread variant of rust jacking between frame parts on a truck. It's like me, putting a jack against the ceiling on a shop and telling the newbie to try to lift the truck from below (i may or may not have done this, i confirm nothing). No amount of penetrant or heat or luck can get you out of the mess that comes with these types of rusted threads. It is what it is.
Another fantastic video Toby! Nice to see everything worked out for you. Cheers
Will someone please start a Go Fund Me to get Squatch a new vacuum!
I wondered why you didn't drill the holes out and then fill them back up with brazing material.
We don’t attempt any heating or brazing repairs on any of these 10X prototype castings because our skill level is not high enough to confidently perform that work without causing other damage. So cold repairs like these inserts of various types is all that’s left 👍
@@squatch253 ok, that makes more sense now.
Beautiful work!
I have read about the diamond cutters who had the task of cutting some of the largest diamonds ever found. They would spend years studying the stone and planning how to cleave it, all the while knowing that a proper cut would increase the value of the diamond while a single wrong hammer tap could destroy it completely. Squatch takes the same care with these one of a kind tractor parts. From a rough, rusty piece of iron he creates a beautiful gem. 💎
What was more stressful, drilling & tapping all those holes for X231... or pressing out track links for 5J1113? LOL...
Drilling on the 10X castings, for sure. The track work didn't scare me as much, it was just heavy, dirty, and repetitious - but pretty tough to mess up lol ;-)
It's great to see x231 progress forward!
Thank you
Yeah, I have a drawer labeled "Oh S#&T" as well.
I think your vacuum bronze bearings need a little oil
Nice job. I have a few bolts in my 68 low boy I going have to address one day.
I’ve got to comment. Your shop vac really makes me smile. One of mine sounds just the same! It will probably last forever, mine has out lasted two newer ones.
Real Question: I know cast iron is a bear to even bronze repair due to heat stresses. If there were a specialty oven could be used to heat large cast iron parts to 500f, and silica sand was used to insulate the areas not being worked on, would it make brazing easier? Asking because I have a hair brained idea....
We took this casting to Midwest Cylinder Head in Nevada, Iowa to have the brazing repair done to the end of the power steering bore, and they basically performed a process similar to what you described. They slowly heated the whole casting in a large oven, then transferred it to another oven that looks similar to a sandblasting cabinet - it has door openings that the welder can do his work through while the rest of the casting is being kept hot. They then remove the casting and put it in a controlled cool-down chamber to slowly release all the heat over the next day or two. This heating process still didn’t do anything to soften the prior overheated areas though.
I'm sure you never tired of hearing from Monday morning quarterback opinions! Great job!
Good one, really enjoyed the installation of the coils in a “not so good” situation.
With the material you’ve taken off the top tank and the bottom bolster to flatten the sealing surfaces up, what’s the plan to essentially “make up” for that material? Thicker gasket? Taller radiator core?
Yes, all of the above plus maybe even a couple of other minor mods to make things fit back together. We’ll make a more concrete plan once the radiator guy tells us which direction he wants to go - if it ends up being building an all-new core then he’ll just make it to fit whatever size the opening is 👍
I saw a setup to sharpen used taps way back in the early 80's. The guy had made a jig that would hold the tap on his surface grinder and used a thin grinding wheel that had a rounded edge. 2 or 3 passes on the flutes and he said they would cut like new. He would wait until he had enough of them to be worth the setup time so he could do a bunch of them at one time.
A setup like that would be great! I’ve tried manually resharpening taps before, but with limited success because I was just doing it free-hand.
Class pay attention. The lesson for today "My shop My rules" !
Squatch253 you have to remember the attention span now days is only around 8.25 seconds!
2:05 you forgot "why didn't you take a time machine back to the 50s?" 😂 Thanks for sharing your project with us. 30 seconds of scrolling is about all any of us can do in our modern patience mind, so hopefully the question and answer are in the top 100 lines 😊
Comment to feed the algorithm 😁
Speaking for myself, I was holding my breath while you tapped that last hole as we are all too familiar with the concept of snatching defeat from the jaws of victory at the last moment.
Sixteen Holes sung by Tennessee Ernie Squatch.🗣👍
Need put a drop or two of oil on the bearings of the shop vac.
Awesome job! The amount of patience you have for this stuff is just unbelievable. I truly love to see the these 1 of a kind tractors get the love and respect you give thim and seeing the history of America's farming ingenuity preserved. Amazing job once again.
Do we need to start a go fund me page so squatch can upgrade his shop vac, good lord that thing sounds awful through the video when it winds down lol
lol it’s actually sounded like that for about 4 years now 👍😎
@@squatch253 it’s awful to listen to over a set of speakers on the tv lol
I love the shop vac. It sounds like mine.
My shop vac has sounded like that for years. Still going.
I'm ready for a Squatch253 concert...keep those Glyptol lyrics coming from the Company Store...😂...great work
I think he missed his calling as a singer songwriter. lol!
Toby - for the threads that did not require Keensert's - did you consider using Helicoils? - or did you determine that the threads were in a sound condition?
All of the holes that had the "X" marking on them were in perfect condition, so I didn't do anything with them.
Bang up job once again. Great patience and attention to detail keep up the good work!
Interesting thread repairs - impressed that the 2 flat surfaces were precisely flat!
Already sad that I have to wait for the next episode...
I truly admire your enthusiasm and determination to get things done. Great videos. I also value the information you provided.
Well!! This old tractor certainly tests your patience. Painstaking work trying to salvage old machines with broken bolt and studs, you have both done a sterling job getting the bolt out and refurbing the threaded holes.
Something you can do is stack some weights on the opposite side of the mil when you have the casting off to the side so it balances out
Have you ever thought of getting an electric heat inductor for bolts I held off kinda wanting one for years but just always used the torch but then I was working on a trucking that had some frozen bolts next to the diesel tank so no chance I was brining out the torch but those things work amazing don't have to worry about flames and heats up just the bolt not the entire case so seems to work better sometimes honestly and saves you on acetylene which ain't cheap either and less smoke and fumes in a closed up shop
I’ve been really looking at one of those induction heaters, everybody that I know who has one has very good things to say about them 👍
@squatch253 yeah I held off for too long should of got one sooner I need up getting the newest one the venom mini ductor it has the most heat power can find them on sale time to time
I'm in the process of cleaning out my snap on 3 bay and I came up with an extra drawer I wasn't sure what to do with - Now I Know! LOL
Hey there Squatch been watching all your videos must say great content and always looking out for your next video and really speaking don't matter what you post but you always post good stuff, just a note on your title dont mean to be calling you out your title says An Squatch production it is actually supposed to be A Squatch Production sorry its just an english vocabulary thing
The usage is correct, it’s not “Squatch”, it’s just “S253”. So when you say it out loud, it’s “An S253 Studios Production” and not “A Squatch253 Studios Production”.
Nonetheless I really enjoy your content all the way from South Africa ,👍👍
Hey, just an idea here: How about you, or Senior showing us your method of sharpening drill bits?
Meaning no disrespect when I ask this question. I noticed you're not using drilling oil and maybe I didn't see it. What is the reasoning? Just for my knowledge.
Cast iron is always worked dry. Any steel that I’m drilling out here is minimal and I’d rather not have surplus cutting oil seeping into the pores of the cast iron 👍
@@squatch253 Thank you for that answer, I did not know
Good old Christine. A challenge on every turn.
Learned a lot of new things for my bad day drawer. And most shop vacs seem to get that wail as they are banshees at heart. Salvaged one with no scream but a tricky switch, sometimes no on, sometimes no off. One day I might fix it!
By the sounds it makes, I wonder if that vacuum cleaner has taken some of the evil out of Christine 😄