I LOVE LOVE LOVE these videos! I'm interested in getting into 3D CNC routing for woodworking, and these tutorials are SO helpful. Thank you for taking the time to teach others what you've learned!
The problem with your teeth is you use (diameter * pi / number of teeth). This gets you the length of the arc from the outer top point of one tooth to the outer top point of the next tooth, following the outside edge of the circle. But you are not sketching around the outside surface of the circle. You are sketching on a plane that is tangent to the circle. If you straighten this arc out on the tangent plane you would find that it is too short by a small amount. The less teeth you use the higher this error will be. To do this properly you do not need PI or any complex math at all. 1. Sketch across your circular face. 2. Draw one line from the center of the two circles toward the outside of your outer circle. I will call this Line1 3. Constrain its length to a fixed value that is greater than the radius of your circle. 4. Draw a second line from the center of the circle to the outside of the circle. I will call it Line2. 5. Constrain its length to the same fixed value as Line1. 6. Set the angle between the lines to (360 / NUM_TEETH). Replace NUM_TEETH with the number of teeth you want on the gear. 7. Connect the two end points of Line1 and Line2 with another line. I will call this line Line3. Line3 should be outside the outer circle. 8. Now draw a line inside the inner circle from Line1 to Line2. I will call this Line4. 9. Now constrain Line3 and Line4 to be parrallel. 10. Now create construction planes through Line3 and Line4 by using Plane at Angle tool. 11. Make your triangles on those construction planes. Make sure to use Line3's and Line4's length for the base of their respective triangle. 12. Loft between the two triangles. 13. Circular pattern the Loft NUM_TEETH times around the part and you are done. This should result in perfectly spaced and sized teeth without using any complex math. I even think you can put (360 / NUM_TEETH) into the angle box and Fusion will figure it out for you.
@@stabbedintheface Hey mate, I found this video yesterday very useful in designing this part, I have tried it and it works well for me. Hope it can work out for you. ua-cam.com/video/Ixy-qdP_QB0/v-deo.html
Nice. Thank you NYC CNC. On the edge of my seat for more CAM! Re. "purple lines" you'll love to turn off "auto project" in the preference/general/design. Then use the "P" shortcut (in sketch environment) to choose what to project into the plane.
always nice to see your thought process John. the tip on using dimensions in formulas means I need to revisit some of my fusions off to find out what the new bits on the latest upgrade are !!
Fantastic-I'm flabbergasted by your Speed and Know-how to create things! Awesome tutorials. Last tuesday night I've been watching some 90 min. of your epsiodes while in the Thread-Mill in my gym....:-). Keep it up! Best regards - John
I'm new to Fusion 360, but pretty good with geometry. Your spacing would be off a bit because the big triangle was on a plane tangent to the circle (think of one side of a polygon with an inscribed circle). What might have worked better for you would be to create a construction plane perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder at the top of the cylinder. Starting with that, from the center create two construction lines from that center at a 12 degree angle to each other (360/30 = 12). Where those lines touch the cylinder rim would be your tooth peaks. If you follow me so far, surely you can take it from there. I did give you a thumbs up by the way. I believe it was you who first (unknowingly) introduced me to Fusion 360. Thank you for that.
What kind of spineless, waste of oxygen would give this wealth of information a thumbs down; I always love seeing how you get things done even if you're not sure it's done the "right' way, thanks!
In Fusion making a knurl is a lot easier if you use the coil (setting triangular and outside I think), mirror it(to get it to cross hatch), and then make an array of the coil and the mirror operation. The easiest would be a straight knurl which is extruded vertically and then arrayed.
When creating objects that will be wrapped around a circle, you might find it easier to use polar coordinates instead of projecting a plane and using Cartesian coordinates for things like that knurl. (Use an angle and a radius instead of X and Y, just like you would do for lathe work) A lot of CNC controls can even use polar coordinates directly. You are really getting fast with fusion. I like how you discover new features along the way. Nice that they keep the updates cranking out. Great that a new part is made active when created. Never could understand why that wasn't the default.
I'd love to see the CAM for the knurled knob. The loft command is very powerful. I'd tried to use Loft in the past and had problems ( very buggy) glad to see they fixed it in the latest release! Love Autodesk FUSION 360!
Likely that toothed cylinder is locked to the plate (that may be what the four holes are for), as it probably is intended to fix the attitude of the camera at any one of 30 positions in relation to the plate. Knob and shaft pull in a mating toothed cylinder attached to the camera. (It doesn't affect the design process; I'm just finicky that way.)
I believe you can just draw a triangle on the top of the knob and then a spiral down the outside of the part. You then cut the triangle down the axis you created and then repeat it around the part to create a diagonal knurl and then just repeat the other direction to creat a diamond knurl. Ik I didn't explain it well but there are a couple videos that show how it's done
I just started learning Fusion 360 a month ago, never use any Cad programs before, really love the way you teach. I know i might be asking a big one here, are you able to teach in the metric system. Sorry haven't play with imperial for years since we are metric in Australia. Thanks for all your work.
As modeled. aren't those knurls only touching the cylinder tangentially at the vertical center-line of the larger square? I guess you could offset the larger square sketch plane into the cylinder to account for this.
I Learned several tricks here. Thanks!! That Knurl brought your PC to it's knees. What type of PC are you running? What Video card? Your right normally you don't model this detail, but it's good to know as you need to to show a customer the proposed final product for visual reasons. Thanks Again!
When you were creating the knurled pattern and needed to centre the second smaller square within the larger one, could you not have used a concentric command? Is this only used for circles? Loving these videos and this channel so glad I found it thanks!!
Fusion 360 is superb for modelling - I've "down converted" from Inventor to Fusion as it is much simpler in the file handling and I'm yet to find something that Fusion can't handle compared to Inventor. It's a little bit different but easy to pick up, especially with tutorials like this.
I also converted from Inventor to Fusion, but I can't seem to find the BEND PARTS feature in Fusion for 3d models. In Fusion, i have to split bodies then rotate the part, then combine them back together. Very frustrating.
John, do you have a video on programming for a matrix of parts? That's almost all that I work on and just got the F360 trial. I can very quickly program for that with my current CAM solution but their trochoidal milling solution is abysmal so I need to make the switch for at least that.
I've had to take so many steps back on projects because I didn't notice something hops off center like that... the worst. Sometimes checking "Slice" is easier than hiding the body.
+RoboCNC Frees- & Graveerwerk I love my space mouse. You can also left click on the view cube (whatever it's called) in the upper right and drag it for a similar effect.
Is the circular gear not meant to be fixed to the main plate, instead of revolving? As i understand the part, there is meant to be another piece that fits into the gear, and the threaded bolt is meant to bind the two pieces together. Correct me if i'm wrong.
Hi I followed your tutorial which by the way works perfectly, but in my project I have to replicate this same knurling into 12 different parts on the same body, and it took me forever to achieve it, is there any faster way for me to replicate it on the other parts? Or I'm really gonna have to do it one by one? Thanks For the tutorial, it's amazing.
I really like your videos! I know nothing about drawing a part, so "bear with me." Can I open a drawing from fusion with Mastercam 9?? I want to draw at home but post at work with Mastercam to run on an old milltronics CNC.
John, any chance you're willing to add the CAD/CAM file (from Fusion) onto your Patreon page? I'm looking at creating more of these gear-type parts (referred to as a "Hirth coupling" from my research). I've got a couple projects on the docket that could benefit from these. Thanks for the walkthrough!
Hi. You might have mentioned this in a video before but why did you go with Fusion360 instead of Solidworks? I love your channel by the way keep up the good work :)
yeah... the real world is that sketch is a freaking nightmare. I end up restarting the software way to often for relatively simple designs. It's odd to me that the company who mastered 2D drafting about 30 years ago can't seem to figure out a useable "sketch" interface today. The 3D modelling aspects are great.
As I have a lot of experience with AutoCAD (without parametric it's just a full blown line generator) I found that sometimes the parametric aspects of Fusion, although neat and helpful for simple stuff, are limiting the design posibilities and often I will reach a point in Fusion where I can only keep going if I disable design history. If you try to move a sketch for example in parametric to reuse it in another area of the sketch you might end up dissolving your whole geometry. You could copy stuff around but it's way messier than simple non parametric CAD. Also the 3D sketch features are very light in Fusion (you can't draw an arc in 3d for example and for one part I had to do some pretty tricky fillets on some simple lines to get a 3D sweep path for coolant channels right, again doable but not elegant).
+NYC CNC John, I bought myself a 3D printer and have been using Fusion 360 to design little items for the shop. I can go directly from 360 to the printer software (it's tied into 360 at the "make" function. Pretty flawless. One thing that I have learned is about compensating for material shrinkage. Thanks for your tutoring!
I found a calculator which will calculate the side of any regular polygon inscribed in a circle. Turns out the length of a single straight line segment of a 30 sided polygon inside a circle of .875" diameter is 0.0914624"
Hmmm. Not sure how you got that figure, but I did (0.875 x Pi)/30 and it came to: 0.091629785 Obviously, for all intents and purposes either figure will work, (after all, what's 2 tenths between friends?), but how come the difference I wonder?
(0.875 x Pi)/30 gives you the distance between two points along the circular arc between them whereas the real measurement should be the straight-line distance between the two points. Instead of a 30 sided polygon inscribed in the circle, imagine a square inscribed in the circle and the difference will be much greater...
The "Top Gear" is probably supposed to be a Hirth coupling, I had to model one when I couldn't find one to copy in any of the usual model libraries, :-) see forums.autodesk.com/t5/design-validate-document/creating-a-hrith-component/m-p/5146822
NYC CNC It will probably work if you adjust the geometry a bit (I haven't checked yours fully, but in a true Hirth Joint the mating parts are identical to one another, yours currently seems to need a distinct "female" part to join on to the "male" part you've drawn). It really needs a bit of refinement to ensure that mating occurs at the flanks rather than the crests. For what is presumably a lightly loaded joint on that device, simply flattening the tops of the crests will do, but on a high torque rotating coupling the sharp bottoms of the valleys are a stress concentrator, so the usual form is to have a radius fillet in the bottom of the valley and a larger radius fillet on the top of the crest. That way, there is a clearance between the two radii when the two halves are mated, and the alignment and drive is handled by the contact between the flat flanks.
Extruding to a point doesn't work for a hirth joint. Here's a link to the Fusion forum with a parametric version you can copy into a design. The first picture in the post shows the problem if you extrude to a point. forums.autodesk.com/t5/design-validate-document/gear-type-teeth-quot-concentric-quot-from-id-to-od/m-p/6027368#M45101
Here's another post that shows how to copy the hirth component into another design, copy the body into a component and add a joint. forums.autodesk.com/t5/design-validate-document/replicating-one-part-into-many-others-fusion-360/m-p/7067295#M111073
Your calculation on the line segment lengths (.875 * pi / 30) isn't quite right. This calculation gives you the length of the arc which is 1/30th the circumference. The straight line would be a tad shorter although I confess my math skills leaves me short of being able to tell you how to calculate the straight line length.
+Chuck Fellows i think you could imagine a triangle with 360/30 degree. (12) divide it in half so its a right triangle. you get 6 degrees inside the small angle. sin(6 deg)*.875 = .0914? multiply by two to get line segment of 1/30 circle. i could very well be wrong.
+UnconventionalMilling Actually, if you want to be really (unnecessarily?) perfect about it: -The isosceles triangle formed by the line segment and the centre point has an angle of 6 degrees. Because we' re trying to create the valley by removing material. -And the segment that's being designed is not part of the inscribed polygon. It's actually a part of the circumscribed polygon to that circle. So it's not actually a chord of the .875 diameter circle. It'd be easier if you created only the tangent plane, then created two guiding lines on the top surface of that cylinder (long enough to intersect the plane), and then sketched the triangle to be lofted so as its tips are on the guiding lines. Then you loft to that centre point (it can actually loft to a point ;-)!!!). That way the edges of the valley will still have that 6-degree angle. The only dimension needed here is the angle of the guiding lines. The rest could be done with constraints. I'm sorry for the long response and anal attention to detail, but I' ve been in the position where I' ve designed something, cut it and then found out it didn't work or fit (i.e. inscribed vs circumscribed). I only hope this helps. Again sorry for seeming like I'm trying to prove everyone wrong. I'm just trying to help.
I've been watching a bunch of your Videos and it pains me to see you struggle with navigating the UI ( many clicks, such pain ). Have you ever considered using a 6D Mouse for what you're doing? www.3dconnexion.com/products/ I myself use a *3DConnexion SpacePilot PRO* which by now has been succeeded by the SpacePilot Enterprise that may be a tad overkill for your purpose but there's also models like the SpaceMouse PRO and the SpaceNavigator which I imagine may very well suited for what you're doing. And while the Product Page says I hasn't been tested with Fusion 360 I can without a doubt confirm that the Profiler absolutely works AND even comes with an array of already assigned Buttons for Devices that have them. Probably the best buck you'd spend when using any 3D Application.
A point isn't quite right either, unless you want the troughs of the teeth to be tilted. It needs to be a vertical line segment equal in height to the big triangle.
I'm new to Fusion 360 and I feel that I've learned allot in that short video. Thanks! Keep up the good work!
I LOVE LOVE LOVE these videos! I'm interested in getting into 3D CNC routing for woodworking, and these tutorials are SO helpful. Thank you for taking the time to teach others what you've learned!
The problem with your teeth is you use (diameter * pi / number of teeth). This gets you the length of the arc from the outer top point of one tooth to the outer top point of the next tooth, following the outside edge of the circle. But you are not sketching around the outside surface of the circle. You are sketching on a plane that is tangent to the circle. If you straighten this arc out on the tangent plane you would find that it is too short by a small amount. The less teeth you use the higher this error will be.
To do this properly you do not need PI or any complex math at all.
1. Sketch across your circular face.
2. Draw one line from the center of the two circles toward the outside of your outer circle. I will call this Line1
3. Constrain its length to a fixed value that is greater than the radius of your circle.
4. Draw a second line from the center of the circle to the outside of the circle. I will call it Line2.
5. Constrain its length to the same fixed value as Line1.
6. Set the angle between the lines to (360 / NUM_TEETH). Replace NUM_TEETH with the number of teeth you want on the gear.
7. Connect the two end points of Line1 and Line2 with another line. I will call this line Line3. Line3 should be outside the outer circle.
8. Now draw a line inside the inner circle from Line1 to Line2. I will call this Line4.
9. Now constrain Line3 and Line4 to be parrallel.
10. Now create construction planes through Line3 and Line4 by using Plane at Angle tool.
11. Make your triangles on those construction planes. Make sure to use Line3's and Line4's length for the base of their respective triangle.
12. Loft between the two triangles.
13. Circular pattern the Loft NUM_TEETH times around the part and you are done.
This should result in perfectly spaced and sized teeth without using any complex math. I even think you can put (360 / NUM_TEETH) into the angle box and Fusion will figure it out for you.
hi can you make a video to do it your way please i cannot visualize it by reading your instructions. Thanks
@@zero00tolerance i, too, would like clarification
@@stabbedintheface Hey mate, I found this video yesterday very useful in designing this part, I have tried it and it works well for me. Hope it can work out for you.
ua-cam.com/video/Ixy-qdP_QB0/v-deo.html
Nice. Thank you NYC CNC. On the edge of my seat for more CAM!
Re. "purple lines" you'll love to turn off "auto project" in the preference/general/design. Then use the "P" shortcut (in sketch environment) to choose what to project into the plane.
Love watching your solutions to Fusion360 challenges.
BTW, you can use "isolate" instead of turning off multiple parts. "Unisolate" toggles them back on.
Great video, it’s nice to see problems that other engineers face and how to correct them, I’m glad I’m not just the only one that makes mistakes.
always nice to see your thought process John.
the tip on using dimensions in formulas means I need to revisit some of my fusions
off to find out what the new bits on the latest upgrade are !!
you can do pi in the formula no need to type it out, Hughes tooling showed that when he did the wrapping function.
Thank you so much!! I've been looking for a good way to do knurling for a couple days now, and this was exactly what I needed!! Thank you so much!! :D
Fantastic-I'm flabbergasted by your Speed and Know-how to create things! Awesome tutorials. Last tuesday night I've been watching some 90 min. of your epsiodes while in the Thread-Mill in my gym....:-). Keep it up! Best regards - John
I'm new to Fusion 360, but pretty good with geometry. Your spacing would be off a bit because the big triangle was on a plane tangent to the circle (think of one side of a polygon with an inscribed circle). What might have worked better for you would be to create a construction plane perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder at the top of the cylinder. Starting with that, from the center create two construction lines from that center at a 12 degree angle to each other (360/30 = 12). Where those lines touch the cylinder rim would be your tooth peaks. If you follow me so far, surely you can take it from there. I did give you a thumbs up by the way. I believe it was you who first (unknowingly) introduced me to Fusion 360. Thank you for that.
John, you make Fusion look so easy!
What kind of spineless, waste of oxygen would give this wealth of information a thumbs down; I always love seeing how you get things done even if you're not sure it's done the "right' way, thanks!
I cannot see any dislikes now though???....
+Clayton Firth lol true, but at 14:05 he mentioned people giving thumbs down to his fusion videos :D
In Fusion making a knurl is a lot easier if you use the coil (setting triangular and outside I think), mirror it(to get it to cross hatch), and then make an array of the coil and the mirror operation. The easiest would be a straight knurl which is extruded vertically and then arrayed.
Amazing pace you are working at John :-) Nice to see the proffesionals struggle sometimes too.
When creating objects that will be wrapped around a circle, you might find it easier to use polar coordinates instead of projecting a plane and using Cartesian coordinates for things like that knurl. (Use an angle and a radius instead of X and Y, just like you would do for lathe work) A lot of CNC controls can even use polar coordinates directly. You are really getting fast with fusion. I like how you discover new features along the way. Nice that they keep the updates cranking out. Great that a new part is made active when created. Never could understand why that wasn't the default.
You're getting much more adept with Fusion 360. :-)
I'd love to see the CAM for the knurled knob. The loft command is very powerful. I'd tried to use Loft in the past and had problems ( very buggy) glad to see they fixed it in the latest release! Love Autodesk FUSION 360!
Great video, love watching your channel.
Likely that toothed cylinder is locked to the plate (that may be what the four holes are for), as it probably is intended to fix the attitude of the camera at any one of 30 positions in relation to the plate. Knob and shaft pull in a mating toothed cylinder attached to the camera. (It doesn't affect the design process; I'm just finicky that way.)
Thank you for this video! It was inspiring to watch!
for the loft for the "gear" teeth, can you just use a point at the center instead of a tiny triangle?
I'm glad to see someone else get the "not responding" from Fusion.
I believe you can just draw a triangle on the top of the knob and then a spiral down the outside of the part. You then cut the triangle down the axis you created and then repeat it around the part to create a diagonal knurl and then just repeat the other direction to creat a diamond knurl. Ik I didn't explain it well but there are a couple videos that show how it's done
Nice! When drawing the second square for the knurl, maybe offset the first square?
John you are the man!
I learned a ton! Thanks as always
I just started learning Fusion 360 a month ago, never use any Cad programs before, really love the way you teach. I know i might be asking a big one here, are you able to teach in the metric system. Sorry haven't play with imperial for years since we are metric in Australia. Thanks for all your work.
As modeled. aren't those knurls only touching the cylinder tangentially at the vertical center-line of the larger square? I guess you could offset the larger square sketch plane into the cylinder to account for this.
I Learned several tricks here. Thanks!!
That Knurl brought your PC to it's knees. What type of PC are you running? What Video card? Your right normally you don't model this detail, but it's good to know as you need to to show a customer the proposed final product for visual reasons.
Thanks Again!
Great job John, very interesting for me (and hopefully others) moving from SW to Fusion 360.
When you were creating the knurled pattern and needed to centre the second smaller square within the larger one, could you not have used a concentric command? Is this only used for circles?
Loving these videos and this channel so glad I found it thanks!!
This is awesome! You're great!! :D
Fusion 360 is superb for modelling - I've "down converted" from Inventor to Fusion as it is much simpler in the file handling and I'm yet to find something that Fusion can't handle compared to Inventor. It's a little bit different but easy to pick up, especially with tutorials like this.
I also converted from Inventor to Fusion, but I can't seem to find the BEND PARTS feature in Fusion for 3d models. In Fusion, i have to split bodies then rotate the part, then combine them back together. Very frustrating.
John, do you have a video on programming for a matrix of parts? That's almost all that I work on and just got the F360 trial. I can very quickly program for that with my current CAM solution but their trochoidal milling solution is abysmal so I need to make the switch for at least that.
I've had to take so many steps back on projects because I didn't notice something hops off center like that... the worst. Sometimes checking "Slice" is easier than hiding the body.
Good work. thanks.
Great share - I am pre-Noob - barely gotten going but getting a lot from you vids. Looking for a recommended reference book - what are good ones?
Hi, what microphone do you use to capture your voice/audio?
Always sounds clear!
Can you make a video on how to make a crown gear and how you would attach another gear to it with the gear feature on fusion 360?
The loft command is kinda nifty.
That was awesome
Right on!
Man man man... you should really buy a 3D mouse.... your mousewheel makes overtime :)
Great tutor by the way.. lof the loft feature
+RoboCNC Frees- & Graveerwerk I love my space mouse. You can also left click on the view cube (whatever it's called) in the upper right and drag it for a similar effect.
I'm just joking with John...
I know how much he hates it...
Lets say everyone has their abnormality :)
I will disagree most definitely
Is the circular gear not meant to be fixed to the main plate, instead of revolving?
As i understand the part, there is meant to be another piece that fits into the gear, and the threaded bolt is meant to bind the two pieces together.
Correct me if i'm wrong.
ofcourse :)
Hi I followed your tutorial which by the way works perfectly, but in my project I have to replicate this same knurling into 12 different parts on the same body, and it took me forever to achieve it, is there any faster way for me to replicate it on the other parts? Or I'm really gonna have to do it one by one? Thanks For the tutorial, it's amazing.
I really like your videos! I know nothing about drawing a part, so "bear with me." Can I open a drawing from fusion with Mastercam 9?? I want to draw at home but post at work with Mastercam
to run on an old milltronics CNC.
John, any chance you're willing to add the CAD/CAM file (from Fusion) onto your Patreon page? I'm looking at creating more of these gear-type parts (referred to as a "Hirth coupling" from my research). I've got a couple projects on the docket that could benefit from these. Thanks for the walkthrough!
Hi. You might have mentioned this in a video before but why did you go with Fusion360 instead of Solidworks?
I love your channel by the way keep up the good work :)
+wynne marshall I can't speak for John, but Solidworks is $4000 and up, Fusion is $300 year.
+Ronald Thompson Fusion is free. Unless you are a business with >$100k/year.
CNC Hacking... I luv it :-)
yeah... the real world is that sketch is a freaking nightmare. I end up restarting the software way to often for relatively simple designs. It's odd to me that the company who mastered 2D drafting about 30 years ago can't seem to figure out a useable "sketch" interface today. The 3D modelling aspects are great.
As I have a lot of experience with AutoCAD (without parametric it's just a full blown line generator) I found that sometimes the parametric aspects of Fusion, although neat and helpful for simple stuff, are limiting the design posibilities and often I will reach a point in Fusion where I can only keep going if I disable design history. If you try to move a sketch for example in parametric to reuse it in another area of the sketch you might end up dissolving your whole geometry. You could copy stuff around but it's way messier than simple non parametric CAD. Also the 3D sketch features are very light in Fusion (you can't draw an arc in 3d for example and for one part I had to do some pretty tricky fillets on some simple lines to get a 3D sweep path for coolant channels right, again doable but not elegant).
Thanks very much, All things I can use now.
+NYC CNC John, I bought myself a 3D printer and have been using Fusion 360 to design little items for the shop. I can go directly from 360 to the printer software (it's tied into 360 at the "make" function. Pretty flawless. One thing that I have learned is about compensating for material shrinkage. Thanks for your tutoring!
Hi is the file of this available for download ? thanks for the tutorial well done and great channel
That's cool!
Doesn't Fusion have a "knurl" feature though??
Thanks! Jim@MidOhio (
Great!
Cool!!
Try using 22/7 instead of Pi in the formula
bro, the videos are great info and very helpful. can you turn the music off when your talking please?
+NYC CNC please dont get me wrong im a huge fan.
I found a calculator which will calculate the side of any regular polygon inscribed in a circle. Turns out the length of a single straight line segment of a 30 sided polygon inside a circle of .875" diameter is 0.0914624"
Hmmm. Not sure how you got that figure, but I did (0.875 x Pi)/30 and it came to: 0.091629785 Obviously, for all intents and purposes either figure will work, (after all, what's 2 tenths between friends?), but how come the difference I wonder?
(0.875 x Pi)/30 gives you the distance between two points along the circular arc between them whereas the real measurement should be the straight-line distance between the two points. Instead of a 30 sided polygon inscribed in the circle, imagine a square inscribed in the circle and the difference will be much greater...
The "Top Gear" is probably supposed to be a Hirth coupling, I had to model one when I couldn't find one to copy in any of the usual model libraries, :-) see forums.autodesk.com/t5/design-validate-document/creating-a-hrith-component/m-p/5146822
NYC CNC
It will probably work if you adjust the geometry a bit (I haven't checked yours fully, but in a true Hirth Joint the mating parts are identical to one another, yours currently seems to need a distinct "female" part to join on to the "male" part you've drawn). It really needs a bit of refinement to ensure that mating occurs at the flanks rather than the crests. For what is presumably a lightly loaded joint on that device, simply flattening the tops of the crests will do, but on a high torque rotating coupling the sharp bottoms of the valleys are a stress concentrator, so the usual form is to have a radius fillet in the bottom of the valley and a larger radius fillet on the top of the crest. That way, there is a clearance between the two radii when the two halves are mated, and the alignment and drive is handled by the contact between the flat flanks.
You areawesome!
Extruding to a point doesn't work for a hirth joint. Here's a link to the Fusion forum with a parametric version you can copy into a design. The first picture in the post shows the problem if you extrude to a point.
forums.autodesk.com/t5/design-validate-document/gear-type-teeth-quot-concentric-quot-from-id-to-od/m-p/6027368#M45101
Here's another post that shows how to copy the hirth component into another design, copy the body into a component and add a joint.
forums.autodesk.com/t5/design-validate-document/replicating-one-part-into-many-others-fusion-360/m-p/7067295#M111073
Your calculation on the line segment lengths (.875 * pi / 30) isn't quite right. This calculation gives you the length of the arc which is 1/30th the circumference. The straight line would be a tad shorter although I confess my math skills leaves me short of being able to tell you how to calculate the straight line length.
+Chuck Fellows en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chord_(geometry)
+Chuck Fellows
i think you could imagine a triangle with 360/30 degree. (12)
divide it in half so its a right triangle. you get 6 degrees inside the small angle.
sin(6 deg)*.875 = .0914? multiply by two to get line segment of 1/30 circle.
i could very well be wrong.
+UnconventionalMilling Actually, if you want to be really (unnecessarily?) perfect about it:
-The isosceles triangle formed by the line segment and the centre point has an angle of 6 degrees. Because we' re trying to create the valley by removing material.
-And the segment that's being designed is not part of the inscribed polygon. It's actually a part of the circumscribed polygon to that circle. So it's not actually a chord of the .875 diameter circle.
It'd be easier if you created only the tangent plane, then created two guiding lines on the top surface of that cylinder (long enough to intersect the plane), and then sketched the triangle to be lofted so as its tips are on the guiding lines. Then you loft to that centre point (it can actually loft to a point ;-)!!!). That way the edges of the valley will still have that 6-degree angle.
The only dimension needed here is the angle of the guiding lines. The rest could be done with constraints.
I'm sorry for the long response and anal attention to detail, but I' ve been in the position where I' ve designed something, cut it and then found out it didn't work or fit (i.e. inscribed vs circumscribed). I only hope this helps. Again sorry for seeming like I'm trying to prove everyone wrong. I'm just trying to help.
that's true the plane is in the wrong spot to use my calculation.
I've been watching a bunch of your Videos and it pains me to see you struggle with navigating the UI ( many clicks, such pain ).
Have you ever considered using a 6D Mouse for what you're doing? www.3dconnexion.com/products/
I myself use a *3DConnexion SpacePilot PRO* which by now has been succeeded by the SpacePilot Enterprise that may be a tad overkill for your purpose but there's also models like the SpaceMouse PRO and the SpaceNavigator which I imagine may very well suited for what you're doing.
And while the Product Page says I hasn't been tested with Fusion 360 I can without a doubt confirm that the Profiler absolutely works AND even comes with an array of already assigned Buttons for Devices that have them. Probably the best buck you'd spend when using any 3D Application.
the reason your teeth were off was because you put a little triangle in the middle instead of a point.
A point isn't quite right either, unless you want the troughs of the teeth to be tilted. It needs to be a vertical line segment equal in height to the big triangle.
Paul Williamson ah yes, that is correct.
fuck yeah works ... thx
Great video, but you got to lose the music. It's very distracting and irrelevant. Just friendly criticism.