don’t listen to all these negative comments. sure there’s some things you can work on to make everything more presentable, but at the same time i get the vibe you’re THE local welding guy everyone can call up because you’re on the cheaper side but you get the job done better than a lot can do which is the most important thing
Tidy work there young man. I do very similar work over here in the UK. Our gouging/scarfing nozzles have a steel shoe on the bottom of the nozzle so its possible to slide the nozzle on the work piece and it makes it easier to control the movement of the torch. On the second item you repaired (packer/press) I would have used a needle scaler to clean up after gouging out the welds. Also, use a 6010 to blow a hole through the steel at the end of the crack too. Using a 6010 is better than a drill in my opinion because it burns through faster than drilling and melts the steel to terminate the end of the crack. When you did the other side with cold mig welds, I would have gouged off those welds first. Going over the top of the old known to be faulty welds isn't the best practice. You can see porosity because of the old weld still being there. The drawbar repair on that old cart, I would have used the old hitch again but reinforced it rather than replace it with two flat plates. Those plates will be weaker that the old hitch. But hey, we all have different methods. Best regards, for the UK!
Thanks. I did actually use 6010 and kinda blew it out on that crack the best I could. as for gouging off the old welds I probably spent about 30 minutes while I was welding the crack trying to decide what I was going to do with them old welds. I ran over one with the 3/32" 7018 and it cut through the old weld like butter so I decided to try and keep costs down for the customer since that guy didn't point out that he wanted them welds fixed to begin with. I kinda just took it upon myself to fix it. or at least make it better than it was. I'm pretty sure it should last a good while. especially considering how long them old welds lasted till they broke. I'm kind of in an area where I won't say all my customers are concerned about money first but you won't see many people around here paying $1800 or better to get the bumpers of their construction equipment straightened like you see on other UA-cam channels. It's kind of a balancing act between doing the best job you can do and doing the best job you can while still trying to be affordable. I also considered for a second trying to clean up and reuse that old hitch but then I noticed how many times it was ripped off and rewelded before me so thought I would try something different. Question, what brand welders are most common in the UK?
Why did you go for the old Lincoln instead of just running your TS2200 with a generator? Also, for someone starting up a welding repair business, what tools do you recommend besides welder/generator, grinder, clamp mate?
I can get into that second part when I have more time tomorrow but the Lincoln lives on the truck. The Lincoln and fronius trans pocket are on my truck all the time. The trans steel is set up in my shop. It comes with me sometimes but mostly I’ll use the Lincoln. The only reason I bought the Lincoln was because at the time I bought the fronius my biggest machine was an even older Lincoln 180 Home Depot. I bought the fronius but it was gonna take a few weeks to arrive. So i also bought the 210mp Lincoln because I was hitting the duty cycle on the small machine 3 times in one stair build.
I might have misunderstood your question. If you were talking about the big old sa200 I was using vs the trans pocket it’s one of those things where I could have used any machine that I own which usually is the trans pocket. I just felt like using the big Lincoln on that particular day. They are some of the smoothest machines out there, they sound cool as hell and I keep it around for big jobs and gouging. Sometimes I’ll run it just to run it. It’s kinda like when people take their antique cars out for a ride. The big Lincoln’s are addicting to me.
@@scrapmanindustries Yeah they are pretty cool, I take it they can output 200A, but you say they can also arc-gouge as well?! do you need seperate compressor for that mate?
@@scrapmanindustries Ha, I see, I want a arc gouging setup, but without a generator welder, I do not believe there is a solution if you just have a 240v single phase suppy?
@@engjds the Sa200 puts out 300 amps or so depending on how it’s tuned. You do need an air compressor to gouge. So for mobile work starting out it really depends on the type of work you do. I started out without hardly anything then slowly got more stuff. If you watch some of the older videos where I was messing around with a white Hobart stick mate that is pretty much where I started from. Then when I really went into this full time I had a generator a stick welder, mig welder, 5 grinders. 3 small ones 2 big ones, some torch’s on my trailer, the sa200, some hammers. (I like bigger hammers and splitting mauls in case you haven’t seen my older scrap metal stuff) extension cords, some levels, a variety of hand tools and a battery drill and impact driver. I got on a big stair job almost right off the bat and then realized I needed an impact wrench, SDS concrete drill, some framing squares, saw horses, and some other random stuff here and there. I would recommend getting a papr system like mine as soon as you can. I put it off for too long. A shovel, broom and leaf blower go a long way as well. Start with any job you can get that is within your skill set. Don’t think you need everything to start. I was running around with an older f250 when I first started full time. It made some appearances on the channel. You can see the progression to where I’m at now. It wasn’t easy and it wasn’t over night. Also the most important tool you can carry around is a stocked cooler and the ability to push through the difficult times. Those two things are more important than any tool on the truck. There will be times you will be in the middle of the worst job you’ve ever seen, knowing you totally underbid it, your covered in sweat, blood, and cow crap. It’s easy to throw a temper tantrum and find every excuse to quit, but you gotta have the drive to keep pushing. That is your most important tool in life I guess.
@@joejoesmojo32 it depends who you hire. I charged by the hour. $400 for all 4 repairs in this video. I know some guys are more expensive than me though. I also know some people are cheaper. I would like to say you get what you pay for but I’ve also seen a place charge some dude $8k to do some stuff to his flat bed because a trainee was working on it and still billing full shop rates for some reason. Any experienced guy woulda charged between $500-$2k. Some guys also have a minimum fee so even if they only came out to do the first repair in this video which took all of about 45 minutes total they would still demand $300 or something ridiculous.
Even though it's only detailed structural weld repair, I wouldn't leave that weld in that condition with its "undercut" and questionable appearance. I'm certified AWS D1.1/5.20 unlimited thickness g1,2,3,4 on 1"PL
I also have d1.1 3g. Unlimited. I didn’t have much room to let the bead build up. If it got just a little too big the jack wouldn’t fit. I was a tad bit on the fast side with that one. It will hold till the next time they forget to take the jack off before moving the tractor.
This man definitely is a production mig welder who only welds in the flat position and calls himself a welder , gay ass keyboard warrior . Would like you to make a video and let’s see you do better .
@@scrapmanindustries The issues I see is consistency, you need to practice stacking beads around corners, and porosity, the rods your using either have moisture damage or you need to clean that metal up hard to do on farm equipment. Also if your going to be painting on customers equipment you need to pack some masking tape for a cleaner job. Your hustling getting jobs and making fixes but be open minded to making changes and you'll be a better welder.
don’t listen to all these negative comments. sure there’s some things you can work on to make everything more presentable, but at the same time i get the vibe you’re THE local welding guy everyone can call up because you’re on the cheaper side but you get the job done better than a lot can do which is the most important thing
Yes. Thank you. I try to make things Affordable but yet still functionable.
if you keep making repair vids, ill keep watching and liking them, great vid, thanks!
same haha
Tidy work there young man. I do very similar work over here in the UK. Our gouging/scarfing nozzles have a steel shoe on the bottom of the nozzle so its possible to slide the nozzle on the work piece and it makes it easier to control the movement of the torch.
On the second item you repaired (packer/press) I would have used a needle scaler to clean up after gouging out the welds. Also, use a 6010 to blow a hole through the steel at the end of the crack too. Using a 6010 is better than a drill in my opinion because it burns through faster than drilling and melts the steel to terminate the end of the crack. When you did the other side with cold mig welds, I would have gouged off those welds first. Going over the top of the old known to be faulty welds isn't the best practice. You can see porosity because of the old weld still being there.
The drawbar repair on that old cart, I would have used the old hitch again but reinforced it rather than replace it with two flat plates. Those plates will be weaker that the old hitch. But hey, we all have different methods. Best regards, for the UK!
Thanks. I did actually use 6010 and kinda blew it out on that crack the best I could. as for gouging off the old welds I probably spent about 30 minutes while I was welding the crack trying to decide what I was going to do with them old welds. I ran over one with the 3/32" 7018 and it cut through the old weld like butter so I decided to try and keep costs down for the customer since that guy didn't point out that he wanted them welds fixed to begin with. I kinda just took it upon myself to fix it. or at least make it better than it was. I'm pretty sure it should last a good while. especially considering how long them old welds lasted till they broke. I'm kind of in an area where I won't say all my customers are concerned about money first but you won't see many people around here paying $1800 or better to get the bumpers of their construction equipment straightened like you see on other UA-cam channels. It's kind of a balancing act between doing the best job you can do and doing the best job you can while still trying to be affordable. I also considered for a second trying to clean up and reuse that old hitch but then I noticed how many times it was ripped off and rewelded before me so thought I would try something different. Question, what brand welders are most common in the UK?
🤣🤣🤣
Safety 1st, Quality 2nd, Efficiency 3rd, In that order of priorities is how everything should be.
safety 3rd always.
Cool Video!
Thanks!
Why did you go for the old Lincoln instead of just running your TS2200 with a generator?
Also, for someone starting up a welding repair business, what tools do you recommend besides welder/generator, grinder, clamp mate?
I can get into that second part when I have more time tomorrow but the Lincoln lives on the truck. The Lincoln and fronius trans pocket are on my truck all the time. The trans steel is set up in my shop. It comes with me sometimes but mostly I’ll use the Lincoln. The only reason I bought the Lincoln was because at the time I bought the fronius my biggest machine was an even older Lincoln 180 Home Depot. I bought the fronius but it was gonna take a few weeks to arrive. So i also bought the 210mp Lincoln because I was hitting the duty cycle on the small machine 3 times in one stair build.
I might have misunderstood your question. If you were talking about the big old sa200 I was using vs the trans pocket it’s one of those things where I could have used any machine that I own which usually is the trans pocket. I just felt like using the big Lincoln on that particular day. They are some of the smoothest machines out there, they sound cool as hell and I keep it around for big jobs and gouging. Sometimes I’ll run it just to run it. It’s kinda like when people take their antique cars out for a ride. The big Lincoln’s are addicting to me.
@@scrapmanindustries Yeah they are pretty cool, I take it they can output 200A, but you say they can also arc-gouge as well?! do you need seperate compressor for that mate?
@@scrapmanindustries Ha, I see, I want a arc gouging setup, but without a generator welder, I do not believe there is a solution if you just have a 240v single phase suppy?
@@engjds the Sa200 puts out 300 amps or so depending on how it’s tuned. You do need an air compressor to gouge. So for mobile work starting out it really depends on the type of work you do. I started out without hardly anything then slowly got more stuff. If you watch some of the older videos where I was messing around with a white Hobart stick mate that is pretty much where I started from. Then when I really went into this full time I had a generator a stick welder, mig welder, 5 grinders. 3 small ones 2 big ones, some torch’s on my trailer, the sa200, some hammers. (I like bigger hammers and splitting mauls in case you haven’t seen my older scrap metal stuff) extension cords, some levels, a variety of hand tools and a battery drill and impact driver. I got on a big stair job almost right off the bat and then realized I needed an impact wrench, SDS concrete drill, some framing squares, saw horses, and some other random stuff here and there. I would recommend getting a papr system like mine as soon as you can. I put it off for too long. A shovel, broom and leaf blower go a long way as well. Start with any job you can get that is within your skill set. Don’t think you need everything to start. I was running around with an older f250 when I first started full time. It made some appearances on the channel. You can see the progression to where I’m at now. It wasn’t easy and it wasn’t over night. Also the most important tool you can carry around is a stocked cooler and the ability to push through the difficult times. Those two things are more important than any tool on the truck. There will be times you will be in the middle of the worst job you’ve ever seen, knowing you totally underbid it, your covered in sweat, blood, and cow crap. It’s easy to throw a temper tantrum and find every excuse to quit, but you gotta have the drive to keep pushing. That is your most important tool in life I guess.
Yikes, I hate hearing somebody say it’s just “this” so it’s not a big deal. My dad told me a long time ago if it’s worth doing this work doing correct
it was done correct enough for what it is.
Wow just paint over the sticker take some pride in the work
I do take pride in my work.
Can you discuss in another video what those types of repairs generally cost.
How much it costs me or how much it costs the customer?
@@scrapmanindustries the customer for jobs like that?
@@joejoesmojo32 it depends who you hire. I charged by the hour. $400 for all 4 repairs in this video. I know some guys are more expensive than me though. I also know some people are cheaper. I would like to say you get what you pay for but I’ve also seen a place charge some dude $8k to do some stuff to his flat bed because a trainee was working on it and still billing full shop rates for some reason. Any experienced guy woulda charged between $500-$2k. Some guys also have a minimum fee so even if they only came out to do the first repair in this video which took all of about 45 minutes total they would still demand $300 or something ridiculous.
For mobil repairs I charge $150 for the first hour, then $75/hr after.
With $150 being the minimum.
I will attempt to make a video on how I charge the next time I have to fix something of mine.
Even though it's only detailed structural weld repair, I wouldn't leave that weld in that condition with its "undercut" and questionable appearance. I'm certified AWS D1.1/5.20 unlimited thickness g1,2,3,4 on 1"PL
ohhh man🙄 it is for farming😉
Beware the "snowflakes" working. They melt anytime they're brought to correction or not given high complement.
I also have d1.1 3g. Unlimited. I didn’t have much room to let the bead build up. If it got just a little too big the jack wouldn’t fit. I was a tad bit on the fast side with that one. It will hold till the next time they forget to take the jack off before moving the tractor.
Hope you ain't charging to much for them welds there bud.
Why do you say that? And how much would you consider too much?
This man definitely is a production mig welder who only welds in the flat position and calls himself a welder , gay ass keyboard warrior . Would like you to make a video and let’s see you do better .
Kinda what I was thinking
@@scrapmanindustries The issues I see is consistency, you need to practice stacking beads around corners,
and porosity, the rods your using either have moisture damage or you need to clean that metal up hard to do on farm equipment. Also if your going to be painting on customers equipment you need to pack some masking tape for a cleaner job. Your hustling getting jobs and making fixes but be open minded to making changes and you'll be a better welder.
Too, not to.
Nice
Thanks